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Honda Accord Fuel and Fuel System Questions
Do any of the 06 Accord models require premium gas?
If so, does it matter if it is used or not?
If so, does it matter if it is used or not?
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Short answer? Regular is fine.
Premium costs more to buy, and doesn't last long.
Buying premium gas when you don't need it is sort of like buying shoes. Huh, you might say. If you wear a size 10 shoe, and you buy a size 12. You get more shoe for the money, but it doesn't do you any good.
Premium gas has additives to ensure better more even burning and is required only for very high compreession engines or older engines with carbon build-up that start pinging.
Premium gas actually has less power than regular.
The only reason premuimu might ever appear to have more power is not because of the gas, but rather because the engine is retarding the spark with regular to prevent pinging.
There was an old wive's tale, which has never bee substanitated, that a Honda design engineer said that you could gain 10 more horsepower by burning premium instead of regular. But it is just that and has never been substantiated or proven for Honda Accord V6 engines.
LOL,
MidCow
...but I'll be damned if I recall where I saw this info....
Hang in there, MidCow......
best, ez..
I remember that is was in an interview when the V6 7th generation was first introduced. He said it should get more horsepower and then when pinned down it was never proven. An engineer on the design team wanting to make a statement; a design engineer's pipe dream. LOL
cruis'n on regular in Accord premium in S2000
MidCow
Uh, welcome to Thermodynamics 101... Premium gasoline has a higher octane rating. Higher octane fuels burn more slowly - which is why they reduce the tendency for an internal combustion engine to ping (pre-detonate) under load. The additional hydrocarbon content of higher octane gasoline also results in a higher BTU content - more power per unit volume. Since a higher octane fuel is more resistant to premature detonation, the engine can be tuned with more spark advance which also results in more power output. In virtually all modern engines with computerized ignition and fuel delivery, millesecond-by-millesecond tuning on the fly occurs courtesy of pre-ignition information supplied to the engine management computer by knock sensors which detect pinging long before human hearing is able to discern it. If premium unleaded is used in lieu of regular unleaded, there will be some power increase realized since the EMC will respond by advancing ignition timing to the point just shy at which pinging occurs. This does not take several tankfulls to accomplish, either. But, ten hp is a stretch - probably closer to 4-5 hp at the engine output shaft and about 2-3 hp where the rubber meets the road after accounting for parasitic losses through the transaxle's gears and bearings, wheel bearings, and losses due to loaded tire rolling deformation. In short, if your engine operates without audible pinging, the use of premium unleaded fuels is neither necessary nor sufficiently advantageous to justify its 20 cents per gallon premium pricing. Contrary to a persistant urban myth, unleaded premium gasoline does NOT contain more combustion chamber deposit cleaning detergents than unleaded regular gasoline, either.
OUTSTANDING posting! -----What is your opinion about fuel additives such as: BG products? -----Best regards. ----Dwayne :shades:
He has a excellent description on gasoline octane. And he is correct about detergents in gasoline.
There is a Federal mandate on detergents and all gasolines brands and grades should have adequate amounts. Now, this is not to say that some small, unbranded wholesaler might be 'shorting' the additives in his gasoline, but he would be breaking the law, and have someone at the gasoline 'terminal', where the additives are added, in collusion with him.
I worked 33 years for a major integrated petroleum company. As a computer programmer, but you pick up a lot a info when you are around the oil business for this long.
That statement is completly incorrect. Actually regular unleaded has a higher BTU content.
The only reason to use premium is because of higher compression engines used to obtain more horsepower from the same engine size. This also happens in older engines with carbon deposit which inreases the effective compression ratio higher than when it were new.
Check you facts again! You appear to be a budding engineer with some good knowledge. But just to prove my point, I challenge you to find at least one document that quantatively supports your supposition. you won't because such evidence does not exist.
YOMV,
MidCow
Wow - such negatory passion... Actually, any introductory organic chemistry or introductory physics textbook supports what I posted. You seem to be intent on reducing a civil discussion about fuel properties to an infantile schoolyard spat, midnightcowboy. Why is that? But to accomodate you this one time, gasoline without alcohol or MTBE as oxygentators is a blend of two hydrocarbon molecules: septane (C7H16) and octane (C8H18). Each grade contains essentially equivalent amounts of various cleaning agents - the exact composition of such as determined by the gasoline blender prior to delivery to stations. The proportion of each basic "gasoline" molecule varies with grade - unleaded premium containing proportionately more octane than does unleaded regular. By simple arithmetic, it should be obvious to anyone who passed 1st grade that each octane molecule contains one more carbon atom and two more hydrogen atoms in its makeup than does septane. Those extra three atoms are fuel, and give off heat when they're burned. So, what part of 91 octane having a proportionately higher makeup of basic combustibles (ergo, a higher BTU content per unit volume) than 87 octane still eludes you?
(While you're chewing on that conundrum, here's another brain teaser: Diesel #2, somewhere in the range of C16H34, give or take, has an even higher BTU content than any grade of gasoline - but burns even more slowly. Work on that one a while - might keep ya' outa trouble...)
..ez..
http://www.straightdope.com/columns/041008.html
Dear Cecil:
In this time of high gasoline prices, the Teeming Millions need your guidance (well, at least I do). What is the difference between premium and regular gas, and is this difference worth the extra money? I normally put premium gas into my car because I don't mind paying two or three extra dollars at the pump. Am I being scammed by the gas stations, or is the benefit to my car worth it? --Jeff, via e-mail
Not to introduce a radical concept, Jeff, but have you tried reading your owner's manual? If it says to use premium, my advice is to use premium. If it says regular, use regular. The fact that your note indicates no acquaintance with such matters suggests that you may in fact be a scam victim, assuming by this you mean "someone who believes what he hears in commercials." I have a hard time working up much outrage over this deception, since discovering the facts requires so little effort. If you don't mind paying the extra money for no reason, don't expect the oil companies to suffer any pangs accepting it.
In most of the U.S., regular gas has an octane rating of 87, midgrade gas is 89, and premium is 91 or 92. (Octane ratings are lower in the mountain west due to the effects of thin air on internal combustion.) Contrary to widespread belief, the octane rating doesn't indicate how much power the fuel delivers; all grades of gasoline contain roughly the same amount of heat energy. Rather, a higher octane rating means the fuel is less likely to cause your engine to knock or ping. Knock, also known as detonation, occurs when part of the fuel-air mixture in one or more of your car's cylinders ignites spontaneously due to compression, independent of the combustion initiated by the spark plug. (The ideal gas law tells us that a gas heats up when compressed.) Instead of a controlled burn, you get what amounts to an explosion--not a good thing for your engine. To avoid this, high-octane gas is formulated to burn slower than regular, making it less likely to ignite without benefit of spark.
The majority of cars are designed to run on regular gas, and that's what the manuals tell the owners to use. Higher-performance cars often require midgrade or premium gas because their engines are designed for higher compression (higher compression = more power), and regular gas may cause knock. If your car needs high-octane gas, the manual will say so.
Using high-octane gas in a car designed for regular accomplishes little except more rapid combustion of your money. Some refuse to believe this, claiming, for example, that premium gives the family Toyota better mileage or more power. These people are in dreamland. Others say premium is purer or contains detergents that will cleanse your engine of uncouth deposits. Likewise misguided thinking--government regulations require detergents in all grades of gasoline. (BP Amoco, I notice, asserts that its premium gasoline contains more detergents than legally required; if you think that's worth 20 extra cents a gallon, be my guest.) Some automotive types claim that using premium in a car designed for regular will make the engine dirtier--something about deposits on the back side of the intake valves. I've also heard that slower-burning high-octane gas produces less power when used in ordinary cars. Believe what you like; the point is, don't assume "premium" means "better."
Occasionally you get some genius who takes the opposite tack--he spends an extra 10 or 20 grand buying a high-performance car, then decides he's going to save three bucks per tankful using regular instead of premium as specified. He figures as long as the engine doesn't knock he's OK. Wrong, carbon monoxide brain. Car engines nowadays contain knock sensors that detect detonation and automatically retard the spark to compensate. The delay means maximum gas expansion occurs when the piston is farther along in its downstroke and thus there's more room in the cylinder head. This reduces peak cylinder pressure, eliminating knock but also giving you less power and poorer mileage.
You may ask: Don't knock sensors make it hard to tell when an old car needs higher-octane gas? Years ago, when your beater started pinging on grades or under acceleration, that was the sign that carbon had built up in the cylinders, increasing compression, and it was time to switch to high-test. Now the knock sensors compensate, which seemingly might conceal the problem. Don't fret--today's fuel injection systems precisely meter the fuel-air mix, resulting in fewer unburned hydrocarbons and less carbon buildup. If you're still concerned, I'd say it makes more sense to spend $6 on a bottle of carbon clean-out juice than an extra $150 a year on high-priced gas.
Cheers,
MidCow
Post of the year nominee, in my opinion! Nice work.
thegrad
On cars that are designed to run acceptably on regular but will provide more power with higher octane, the use of regular will not necessarily harm fuel efficiency, as your engine is almost all of the time running under very light load. Engines under light load will not sense impending knock, and thus will not retard the spark. Thus, under almost all normal driving conditions with these engines, premium fuel only has an effect on engine timing under high load conditions. In fact, I would guess that premium fuel could actually result in poorer fuel efficiency under light load conditions as it combusts more slowly, though one could probably only measure the differences under laboratory tests, as they would be very miniscule.
Some people have the misguided notion that car companies design these cars with an "octane sensor" that completely adjusts the engine performance under all conditions. This is simply wrong. They design a knock sensing system that reacts by adjusting timing when the knock sensor senses low level knock. This system reacts to impending engine knock, not to the actual fuel in the tank.
http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/transportation/consumer_tips/regular_vs_prem- ium.html
http://www.epinions.com/content_2346164356
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline
*Mobil used to adverise that their Mobil 1 line was blended exclusively from PAOs (Group IV) with select esters (Group V) added as lube quality enhancers (esters have a natural affinity for metals and will retain a lube film after the oil has drained back into the sump) and engine seal conditioners (esters will swell seals - a job previously carried out by the solvent-like naphthenes present in lower quality base oils - the lone desirable quality of naphthenes in motor oil). Mobil's no longer claiming that PAO exclusivity. I have no idea whether their back-pedaling wording change is significant or not. Some (not myself) on BITOG have tentavely explored the heresy that the "standard" Mobil 1 full synthetic line (vs. Mobil 1 EP) may now carry some Group III content. Their reasoning is that PAOs are very expensive to polymerically synthesize because of the multiple steps involved.
Your experience was justifiably unsettling, but several points you may not have considered:
1) An inground tank with a low fuel level is more likely to have pumped WATER into your car's fuel tank. (Since water is heavier than gasoline, it settles to the bottom of the tank.) Both the station's pumps and your fuel system have very effective fuel filters to trap solid contaminants, but limited ability to trap water. Station personnel are responsible for servicing the equipment, but not all are equally attentive. Car owners can be notoriously lax in regular fuel system maintenance.
2) If the station personnel were lax enough to allow their regular-grade tank to run low enough to cause problems, what assurance do you have that the same might not have been true of their high octane tank?
3) How can you be sure that your car didn't have an anomoly that was about to become apparent regardless where or what grade of gasoline you purchased?
I've learned the hard way to seek out national brands* of gasoline and trade where there're cars lined up to purchase fuel. Generally, those stations have a high turnover rate and consistently acceptable quality fuel. Unless I'm in dire straits, I steer clear of unbranded mom-'n-pop convenience store gasoline.
*which can be as cheaply priced as the no-name brands. I use BP "ARCO" and Total "Valero", though I draw the line on Citgo gasoline and lubes for political reasons.
(curious observation: British Petroleum owns the "ARCO" and "Castrol" brands - cheap gasoline, expensive motor oil. Chevron Oil Co. owns the "Chevron Supreme" motor oil brand - relatively pricey gasoline, cheap motor oil [and a very good one]. Go figure.)
Why would the level of the tank change the chance of getting water? Full or empty, wouldn't the water still be at the bottom?
Mrbill
I've currently got one of each of these brands, and I've never personally seen this in either of their manuals.....
www.toptiergas.com
Thanks for the toptier.com site. I thought Chevron/Texaco were the only brands. I will probably still stick with Texaco (easy to find anywhere).
Under the 'Deposit Control' submenu it says:
1.2 Deposit Control Additive Requirements. The deposit control additive used to meet the performance Standards described in 1.3 shall meet the substantially similar definition under Section 211(f) of the Clean Air Act. Also, the additive shall be certified to have met the minimum deposit control requirements established by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) in 40 CFR Part 80. Lastly, the additive shall be registered with the EPA in accordance with 40 CFR Part 79.
Seems to me like this is saying 'Top Tier' meets the minimum requirements already in place by the EPA, and what gasolines SHOULD already be meeting to conform with the EPA regulations.
I think 'Top Tier' is mostly marketing guys' hype.
Quote:
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is a recently established new standard for gasoline performance. Four of the world's top automakers, BMW, General Motors, Honda, and Toyota recognize that the current EPA minimum detergent requirements do not go far enough to ensure optimal engine performance.
I don't think you are getting the same quality gas from say Walmart, as you would from Chevron. It's the detergent additives that make the difference to me. It's not just about the environment, it's also about keeping the inside of my engine cleaner.
Walmart stations are Murphy Oil Company stations in many locations.
From my reading, all gasolines are supposed to meet the EPA requirements. Top Tier 'additive shall be certified to have met'. Met, not exceed. Just reading from the site.
Marketing, marketing, marketing.
P.S. I am not saying that some gasoline might not be below the standards. To make more money, people will do anything, and using an additive package that does not meet specs is something that is probably being done.
P.P.S. I don't have time to tell how most all gasoline in one area comes from the same refinery. Additive packages are the only difference. Most stations are not corporate owned either. They are owned by a local owner (or a big company) that might own one or hundreds of stations. They rent the signs from corporate....
Marketing, marketing, marketing - aka, "psychology"...
If drivers stick with national brands from stations with high turnover, they probably have nothing to worry about regarding gasoline quality, "Top Tier" certification notwithstanding.
...this premise perseveres when tanking up my AV6 6M coupe with RON 87..............and at 22.5k with fresh oil and a new filter...........I still marvel how well she pulls on good old 'regular' gas..........
...great car...
..ez..
........you never know what's going to come up. Appreciate the info, Ray...........
..best,ez..
I realize I'm a little late to this discussion, but here is the substantiation: http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/reviews/2002-08-01-accord_x.htm
"The Accord V-6 ratings assume regular-grade fuel, and Honda will market it as a regular-fuel engine. But — pssst — it's good for another 10 hp and 10-plus lbs.-ft. on premium, acknowledges V-6 engineer Asaki."
I've heard this. But I have also heard that it will take a couple of tanks for the computer to adjust to premium gas. And if you burn just one tank of regular gas, you are back to square one. So if you want to run premium fuel (for the power gain) you have to continue using premium all the time. I'll stick with regular, 240 horses are enough for me.
....sounds good (if unfamiliar). How would it taste - - compared to - - say.........Crown Royal?
..our northern neighbors may have competition....
..ez..
Certainly no offense taken at all.
However:
1. In a case of choosing to believe a Honda engineer being quoted in a national newspaper over some random dude on some car forum? I don't know about you, but I'll believe the Honda engineer.
2. That said, 5 HP, 10 HP, whatever. Neither one is anything to brag about, and neither one is going to be noticeable in every day driving. Me? I use regular in my V-6.
3. I was just pointing out that this "mythical" 10 HP that, whether you choose to believe it or not, does have a real Honda source and is not, in fact, something someone just made up like some people on here would lead you to believe.
Mrbill
Because an alleged Honda engineer quoted in a mass distribution national daily periodical of less than Pulitzer prize reporting quality said so. (Of course I'm only "some random dude on some car forum" {post #48} with consistently suspect credibility, so what do I know?... )