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Mazda CX-7 Transmission Questions



  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    That is horrifying. I hope you are able to recover from your injuries.

    I wonder whether Mazda's position is/will be that your son set the car in motion by fiddling with the gear shift.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • bcp1bcp1 Posts: 21
    You need to get this checked immediately by a Mazda dealer. You are suppose to have your foot on the break in order to shift from park to reverse. Are you sure the vehicle was not in drive already. It is pretty difficult to shift from Park into reverse.

    Sure hope you were not seriously hurt. Also remember that you have a manual function on your CX-7. You move it into the manual mode and it is extremely easy to shift from one gear to the next.

    I would have a Mazda Dealer make sure that you donot have some faulty transmission, that is very dangereous.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Has anyone checked to be sure the park/brake locking solenoid assembly is fully operational...? And how well "hidden" is the manual release/bypass if the brake application doesn't allow a shift out of park..?
  • corytcoryt Posts: 3
    thank you to everyone who has put in helpful questions for me as this is a serious matter. I appreciate your help. In answer to tidester, they are not giving anything and maybe that is their position except that he was in the PASSENGER seat belting in-no where near the driver's seat......keep the possible answers coming as I need help getting Mazda to fix this problem!!! I ride three children around in the car on a daily basis and they are all terrified of the car since this happened.
  • corytcoryt Posts: 3
    how do i read message 97????
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    how do i read message 97?

    You don't. At least not until the author rewrites the message so that it conforms to the Terms of Use. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • I just bought a 2010 CX-7 Touring. Having just moved down from a 2008 CX-9, I expected some adjustment period, but I am really struggling with the signifcant loudness of this engine. At first I just attributed it to getting used to a turbo charged engine, but as mentioned in these posts from a few years ago, when I turn it on, the engine screams and revs up to 2500 and sits there, until I tap the accelerator. If I shift into drive while it is in this mode, it shoots off like a rocket, which is disturbing in parking lot situations. I'm no car expert, so I called the dealership to ask if this was normal behavior and they said it sounds like the idle is stuck?

    Am I going to walk into the service department and they'll look at me like I'm an idiot? Is this just normal behavior for a turbo engine?

    Thanks for your educational responses.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Since your engine is so severely derated/detuned in order to accommode turbo BOOST, and of fairly low displacement volume anyway it probably takes somewhat "extreme" measures such as this to bring the catalytic converter up to operational temperatures, ~800F, in the time designated/allocated by the EPA.

    Throw in a COLD climate and thereby the need to heat the passenger cabin at the same time and....

    "....Until I tap the accelerator...."

    How soon after starting the engine will/does this work...???

    Perhaps "you" are the "switch" used to tell the system that the passenger cabin is now warm enough..?
  • I'm fortunately not in a 'cold' climate. My garage temp is around 60 right now and outside is low 50s.

    Does it make sense that I have to tell the car it's warm enough by tapping the accelerator?

    Is the fact that it revs up so high at start an issue or is it just the nature of this vehicle's engine?

    Thanks for the clarification.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..not in a 'cold' climate.."

    Yes, I know, it's about the same over here in Woodiville.

    "..Does it make sense.."

    Well, yes. Think about it, what's the harm in the engine "idling" at 2500 RPM until the catalyst is heated to operational temperature..?? Unless the driver decides it's time to "go" and taps the accelerator in order to more gently enter "drive".

    My '01 F/awd RX300 disables OD until the transaxle ATF temperature has risen to some predetermined level. Currently I drive about a mile before I feel the shift up into overdrive. In the summer it appears to take about half of that distance. My RX has the V6 so the catalyst would be expected to get to operational temperature a lot quicker that your detuned/derated I4. I would imagine that your CX-7 also has OD locked out until....

    " issue or..."

    Only the dealer, say Kirkland's Madza dealer. Dick Meyer, owner, might be able to answer that.
  • So I've had my 2008 CX-7 GT AWD for a month and last week I noticed a compressed/forced air sound coming from the front drivers side when I get to and above 2500 RPM's. I took it to a dealer this week since its under warranty and they came back and said they test drove it and the turbo sounds fine. WTF. I didn’t hear it until last week.

    I took it to my local mechanic (before I took it to the mazda dealer) and he said otherwise...he thought maybe a hose was loose.

    Anyway, I'm pissed that the dealer said they checked all the connections and that there are no problems. They know more than I do, but something isn't right. Should I try another dealer? Its going to mean time off work, since they don't look at this kind of stuff on wknds.

    Also, the turbo was replaced prior to purchase.
  • queenfanqueenfan Posts: 6
    There is a thingy to switch off whether you need to press on the brake pedal in order to shift out of park. If you bought the car used it may be that the previous owner switched it, or your Mazda people are morons, or they're afraid you're going to sue their pants off because they didn't make sure to check this before allowing you to drive off the lot with this important safety feature not working. On the shifter console, you'll see a little circle with a tiny notch in it. If you remove this circle, underneath it is a button or switch or something (it's in the owner's manual) that controls the feature. Try looking in your manual to see if that helps.
    I wish you the best of luck in your recoveries and hope you are successful in getting Mazda to help you with your medical bills and other damages.
  • My husband and I purchased a used 2007 CX-7 last year. It has roughly 45k on it when we bought it, and we've since put about 35k on it - my husband drives a lot of interstate for work. About two weeks ago, we noticed that the car was jerking very noticeably around the 1st to 2nd shift. Happens whether it is a gentle or sudden acceleration. And then the AT warning light came on. Car has had regular oil changes/tire rotation etc. since we bought it. We've had to have the air conditioning fixed (almost as soon as we bought it), had the battery replaced and transmission flushed while we were at it about a month or two ago.

    We took the car into our local Mazda dealership, had a horrible customer service rep who could not have cared less about what was happening with our car or how quickly it would be looked at - we made an appointment for 8:15 am, had to tell the customer rep (he was ofiicially an advisor, I think) what the AT warning light was for, he told us that they would get to our car, but that it would be a while as they would have to look at other cars that came in before ours (so what was the point in making an appointment?), and told us to call to check to see if our car had been looked at yet - had to tell him that he should call us to let us know when the car was being looked at and what was wrong. Six hours later, and the car still hadn't been checked out. We were so upset, we asked them to just give us the car so that we could take it somewhere else. Jim Ellis Mazda on Cobb Pkwy, in case anyone else would like to avoid such an experience.

    But I digress. My husband had a better customer service experience at Mazda of Roswell. They told us that there was a bad cylinder that would need replacing that was most likely the cause of our issue. Said that it would cost $1800.

    My questions: 1) Is this a reasonable price? 2) Has anyone else experience a similar issue and what was done to fix your problem?

    Thanks for the help!
  • 2007 Mazda CX-7, on a cold engine 1500 to 2000 rpm, when transmission switch goes to back drive position, a laud snap is heard. After couples of minutes of running engine and it goes from 2000 rpm to 1000 rpm everything is sound normal. :confuse:
    Is it normal behaving for Mazda CX-7? Does it mean I have to warm up engine for 2-3 minutes before start driving? (with my second car (Hyundai) I do not have this issue and can drive instantly.) :confuse:
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..AT warning light.."

    Usually means the transaxle is overheating...

    "..bad cylinder..."

    Solenoid, maybe...??

    80,000 miles on an overstressed (F/awd) drive train...?

    You're more likely looking at a rebuilt transaxle.
  • Over the last 6 months I have had some serious issues with my cx7 with the transmission slipping out of 6th gear and going to 3rd or 4th gear while driving on freeway . This is extremly dangerous as the cars decelerates almost immediately by approx. 20mph and I have almost got rear ended more than once. This is a random occurence, not going up a hill, not always in cruise and doesnt occur at the same speed every time. After the rapid deceleration and the corresponding rapid increase of rpms to over 7000 (high end of red zone) the car will now rapidly accerate like a rocket. This has also almost caused a rear end collesion. Mazda had been unable to duplicate this. To try to fix they have changed a few things, timing chain, o2 sensor and transmission flush. This has not fixed my problem, still happens. I purchased the exteded warranty but have still shelled out 750 bucks without the problem being resolved.
    Do you know if this is a commen issue with this model or if I maybe just have a lemon. I have approx. 70,000 miles on it.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    edited July 2011
    Knock/ping sensors...

    Or second possibility is intermittent transaxle output shift rotatuinal speed sensor.

    Engine/transaxle ECU "detects" knock/ping, thinks it's due to engine lugging, DOWNSHIFT, QUICK....

    Knock/ping detection disappears and car goes into "re-acceleration" mode.
  • Hello all....I have a 2007 CX-7...recently the vehicle feels like the engine had a miss. Took it to a dealer and $641 later after a new battery, air filter and spark plugs it still feels like a miss. Took it back and had them test drive it with me and of course it did not do it. I could feel it but they could not. Took the car back a week later and left it for the day. They still felt no miss..or jerk. Thought I was crazy and left it with my father in law for a weekend and he noticed it immediately. He took it and had the auto-transmission flushed. Still jerks. Mostlly around 45mph and up 4, 5, and 6th gear. Just went and got an extended warranty cause I feel I'm in for it. The dealership ended up telling me that before it gets worse they could do nothing. I'm not getting any warning lights at all. Has 51,000 miles on it. Any suggestions of what to do now? It feels like it is getting worse. I guess taking it again to the dealership and leaving it until it does the jerking for them is my next option.
  • I finally with my extended warranty got a new transmission after MULTIPLE trips to dealer....paying MULTIPLE deductibles to my extended warranty protection ($200/every time). The replaced timing chain....( I guess they knew this was an issue with this car), transmission flushes etc. I took it to a different dealer who couldn't find anything wrong with it either...they thought I was trying to scam Mazda. It took for the transmission to sieze up on a drive with the mechanic at dealership for them to believe me. Keep on pressing it, it sounds like the same problem I was having and eventually, it will become evident. Thank goodness you purchased the warranty. The jerking got so bad I almost got into a few accidents as it would deaccelerate (felt like a downshift) on the freeway at 70mph.... Good luck.
  • skokie2009skokie2009 Posts: 3
    I'm having the same problem with the car jerking from 1st to 2nd gear. I am being told I need a new transmission!!
    Were they able to fix your issue? What repairs were done?
  • vwelshvwelsh Posts: 2
    I am having the same issue with my 2007 CX 7 -- jerking when automatic transmission shifts from 1st to 2nd -- did you have that repaired? What ended up being wrong with it and how much did it cost?
  • vwelshvwelsh Posts: 2
    I noticed that others have had this problem -- Jerking when automatic transmission shifts from 1st to 2nd. I have a 2007 CX 7 and it just started doing this. No lights indicating any problem and my mechanic got no readings during diagnostics. Has anyone had this problem assessed, fixed? What did it turn out to be? How much did it cost? Thanks so much for your help! I look forward to hearing from someone, anyone? Have an awesome day!
  • I have a 2007 Mazda cx-7......I just recently got in my car and put it in reverse and then put it into drive and gave a quick/strong jolt and went into 3rd gear and stayed there...would not switch to gears 1, 2, 4, or 5. I then drove it about .5 miles and turned it off...turned it back on, and when I put it in reverse again, it jolted....when I put it into drive this time, it went straight to 5th gear and would not switch......i even tried changing the gear from the manual settings and nothing would switch....its like its in some kind of lock position where the transmission cant switch the gears.....the last few times i have tried putting it into drive, it goes straight to 5th gear...

    any ideas what is going on?? I am hoping it is a simple thing to unlock the system so it will switch gears again because today at 3:00, it worked perfectly fine and the next time i drove it which was around 6:30, it had this issue....engine sounds fine too.
  • My 2007 CX 7 Grand Touring with the smart fob. Was running great then suddenly no forward poll. It turned out the flex plate was cracked all around the bolts. After Replaced by Mechanic, It seems to be stuck in security mode. Cranks, sounds good. Just No fire to the motor. Tried both key fobs and keys. alarm sounds and will turn off with fob. still just cranks. Mechanic is baffled Im sick of having no vehicle. going on 2 months, ANY HELP PLEASE!
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