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Ford Escort Engine Problems



  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    Possibly, though I think it odd that one of those sensors would quit so abruptly. Given that everything mechanical looks to be in order, they may be your best bet at this point. It looks like you would be out about $60 for the pair, so that's not so bad. You should be able to test them with a multimeter to determine if they are out of range if you can find instructions for doing so (including voltage specifications).
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • Hi,

    Everytime I try to put gas in, the sensor shuts off the nozzle. I'm told I have to replace the Purge Solenoid, but Ford no longer sells it and I need a part number.
    When researching online, I see a "starter solenoid" but not a Purge Solenoid.
    What exactly am I looking for? A valve, a sensor or electrical part? Please point me
    in the right direction. I don't want to have to replace the entire gas tank for a small part. Car out of commision since I'm told the fumes are not escaping and the car can blow up in this heat (northeast). Mechanic won't store car in his shop for fear of this. Thanks. :confuse:
  • grimyfacegrimyface Posts: 27

    A Google search on the phrase "purge solenoid" produced *lots* of results.

    One of the results was from, which suggests that this part will be available through your local parts dealer (which is usually the case when the dealer doesn't carry the part, anyway). ;)
  • I need two of part number F0CZ9B593B. Problems is I only found one, the part is no longer made or sold and I have no idea what this thing looks like. I've been researching on the web and have found tons of info on emission control and such. But it doesn't help me find this part that is no longer made, therefore, I can't find a picture. Any help will be appreciated.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    Yeah, I am not really sure about that part. There is a vapor canister purge solenoid and purge valve, but I don't know about a vent valve for the fuel tank itself. Have you taken apart the system on your car?
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • pastatiepastatie Posts: 26
    did you ever get a resolution to the problem? My sons 2000 with 101k miles is doing the same thing. the latest dealer fix was an egr solenoid and a replacement vacuum hose. they have replaced maf, fuel pump, coil, plugs, pcv, air filter. same code keeps coming up. any information is appreciated. thanks.
  • Actually glad that you asked. We still have that engine light come on I just took car in to have the timing belt replaced and had them check on engine light warning. He said that it was indicating that the egr selnoid was not working so he first cleaned it and thought he unstuck it. It came back on and when I took it back he said that the egr selnoid had just been replaced recently. I probably had V.I.P. do it last year. Light came back on after they turned it off. Wish I had an idea on why it comes back. We have 170,000 on the 2001 and replacing timing belt was amazing really smoothed it out. It actually is running great but light still coming on. Back to the shop. Let me know if you have any luck. Header1974
  • we are having the same kind of issue as we speak . maybe since then you've had some progress that might help us out. we are leaning towards electrical short of some type because car was running just fine only we took it in to find out why our a/c wasn't working and while engine was running the mechanic was checking under the hood all the power and checking for electrical failure and while test something on drivers side near electrical box the car cut off (not stall) on its own. when we tried to restart it wouldn't even catch a spark. then we went through similar process as you did.we replaced fuses, fuel filter and theres fuel pressure, and spark plugs are good, any ideas?
  • Hi All,
    Since it's been two months already, my car still sits at the mechanics. Thank God he doesn't charge me. I found one part in Alabama. But need a second one. NO ONE HAS IT. Just called AL again and they tried a search for the second one. No luck.
    If you can find someone in the junk yard with the part, please let me know, since I've been told they don't keep parts like valves. But that was one Auto Wrecker in the area. It is a fuel vapor valve or fuel tank vent valve, part # FOCZ9B593B for a 91 Ford Escort. I would hate to junk my car because of a stupid valve. Somebody has to have a solution. AL is sending me a photo of what they call part #9B593. Hopefully that will help me find it on ebay. Good Luck with your cars and I'll let you know what happens.
  • I have a 2000 ford focus 5 door wagon. Had problems driving would not go above 30 miles per hour. Took it to dealer, and was told there is a problem in 2000 wagons and I had to pay $250.00 to fix it, or $2500.00 to replace engine. I was told there is no recall issued on it, and that a possible fix to the problem was to paint the inside for $250.00 or replace engine for $2500.00. Does not make sense to me, and that the problem is known, but the company did not take action, and notify the owners of the car of a possible problem under the hood. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    Paint the inside of what? Sounds like BS to me, but all I can do is speculate without any other stories to corroborate what you were told. :sick:
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • I bought my mothers 1999 escort SOHV 2.0.It has a weird noise from the engine that gets faster with rpms.sometimes it goes away but if you rev it up it comes back and starts smoking.Smoking is coming from an oil leak that I noticed around the block and bellhousing.The oil that is leaking has metal flakes in it,so I'm sure it's not good. Was wandering if it has dropped a valve,I seen all kinds of post for that problem. Car still runs and is not locked up.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    If you can describe the "weird" noise, maybe someone can offer some insight!

    Where on the block? Is it literally seeping from the joint between the block & bell housing? If so, it may be a rear main seal that has gone out. Main seals are always a bit of a pain, but on a little engine like this, it would be a day job to replace the seal.

    The question is whether or not it is worth it given the other issue! First thing: drain the oil and look at the contents - are you seeing a large metal content? Perhaps do an oil analysis (about $25.00) to get an accounting of the chemical content and oil health / engine health. Maybe cut the casing off the oil filter and look at the filter media surface to see if there are a flakes caught there as well.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • sgmaysgmay Posts: 2
    I wanted to change the thermostat on my 97 Escort. Head of the bolt popped off.
    M6 bolt, slightly under designed. There three bolts, so I decide to stop, suspect the other two will fail also. Before I attempt to proceed I wanted to find out if anyone had a similar experience and any success removing the failed bolt.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    I managed to get the bolts off of mine, but two of the three were heavily corroded, so I replaced them all when I reinstalled the housing. If you are lucky at all, the broken stud will have an 1/8" or more of material sticking out of the block. I would put some penetrating oil in it for a day or two, then try to back it out with a vice grip. If that fails, you'll likely have to drill it and try using a stud extractor.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • denzzdenzz Posts: 4
    My ford escort starts fine and quickly, I had a problem in the past where it would stutter and shake real bad and then turn off and wouldn't turn on at all after that.

    Had a friend look at my car, we replaced the fuel pump, fuel pump regulator that is in the trunk on the side wall and the car started up and hasn't seen that problem again.

    Over the last 2 or 3 weeks my car has been randomly shutting off mid drive. At first it was once every 4-5 days, then it turned into once everytime I left whether it was to down the street and back.

    I don't know much about cars, but I can tell you it has not shut off unless the thermostat was in the middle so it has always been warmed up never turned off while it was still cold.

    It could be shutting down after a certain amount of miles driven because it died on me at the same exact spot twice now from leaving home to get food, same intersection same place...

    The car also shakes a LOT when its idle, idles very rough but is very smooth once you use the gas, I've replaced the motor mounts and have got a tune up recently although I'm not sure if I trust the place that did it for me, the motor mounts I saw were replaced though.

    List of very recent work done on the car:
    Fuel filter (just the other day thinking this might of been the problem)
    Fuel Pump
    Fuel Pump Regulator
    Motor Mounts
    Tune up
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    If it doesn't do it until the car is warmed up, it is a sensor issue associated with "open loop" versus "closed loop" status. In other words, when the car is cold, it operates in a closed loop status meaning the car runs off preset operating parameters. Once it is warmed up, it goes to open loop, meaning it uses feedback from various sensors, such as the oxygen sensors, to adjust the combustion mixture, timing, etc, to optimize the vehicle's economy and emissions.

    If one of those components is not working properly, it will throw the whole system into disarray.

    I am curious, when it stalls, is it as simple as working fine to shut off, no other symptoms, or does it run rough, stutter, etc. before hand and then culminate in a stall?

    For you rough idling, it may be the knock sensor. I had a Subaru Outback that would do that when first started, but seemed fine once you gave it some gas. I ended up replacing the camshaft, crankshaft, and knock sensors simultaneously (the computer threw a code for the knock sensor and camshaft sensors, if I recall correctly), and that was like getting a new car. It solved an array of problems I was having at the time.

    Is your CEL illuminated? If so, beg, borrow, or buy a code reader to get the code list for further diagnosis! You could save yourself a lot of guess-work.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • denzzdenzz Posts: 4
    edited November 2010
    My CEL was lit up a couple months back and Autozone will get a code list for you for free so I did that and I believe i had that oxygen sensor show up on there, the light has not been on after i got some things fixed at a mechanic, they said my car was running too lean and fixed my vacuum lines

    When my car stalls there is no other symptoms at all, it just simply turns off, no stuttering or anything just straight to off, ALTHOUGH the first couple times this started happening, back when it was turning off once every 4-5 days it would die when i was driving steady and my gas pedal would go in and out of working, and within a few seconds die, it would almost even act as if it downshifted from a high gear 1 time to kinda slow it down and then it would turn off but that has only happened the first 2 or 3 times it did this, everytime since then it does not stutter or anything

    And I'm curious is this oxygen sensor and knock sensor easy to replace and or cheap? Maybe something I can do my self after getting the parts from a local auto store? I will have them check my car for a list of codes too but my CEL light is not on so will it show me anything? Or does the light have to be on
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    Generally, no, sensors are not particularly cheap! For the Escort, though, they are not nearly so expensive as they were for my Subaru. I am planning to put new oxygen sensors on my '98 next spring, and they are about $35 each (there are two of them!) through Amazon. I am not sure about the knock sensor, that one could be about the same or even more. Without checking, I would estimate on the order of $50.

    They are certainly a do-it-yourself type of job, but the oxygen sensors can be a real pain since they are in the exhaust stream. The threads can often become corroded / seized, so patience and tenacity are both standard tools for the job. Plus, they are under the engine and a little awkward to reach.

    This suggestion may be a long shot, but try cleaning your mass airflow sensor, which is located just after the air cleaner housing, and see if that helps. Be sure to use a sensor-safe cleaner (basically a carburetor cleaner, but it actually says "sensor safe" on the can). The MAS is one of the items that is included in the open loop, but not the closed loop. I had a stalling problem in that Subaru that was resolved by doing that. I was not getting a CEL when this happened.

    As for codes without the CEL, yes, you can, but it depends on how recently it happened. I think the system clears itself out after 40 drive cycles with no problems, but there can be "pending" codes that throw in the system if something minor is out of whack one cycle but not the next. Those codes do not light the CEL unless they recur multiple times in a row.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • denzzdenzz Posts: 4
    I had autozone check my car for codes but nothing showed up, CEL was not on, but just had them check anyways.

    I replaced the Idle Air Control Valve today, took it for a test drive to a place about 10 miles away and things seemed to be running smoothly, it still idles a little rough, maybe not as much but it felt better to drive as if maybe I had fixed the problem.

    Made it all the way there fine without any stalls, although my dash lights came on as if it died, and went away after 1 or 2 seconds, it was very quick, as if it was dead and instantly came back on mid driving

    On my way back home it died about 3 times, all while coasting or slowing down.

    2 times it flickered my dash lights and my car was unresponsive for a couple seconds and then everything was fine as if nothing happened (what i would call fake stalls or "ALMOST" stalls)

    As I was driving down 1 street around 45 MPH i let off the gas to coast and it felt like it maybe died but none of my dash lights were on, so i pushed the gas in, the gas had no response, it was as if I was pushing the gas in with the car off... after coasting from 45 MPH to about 30-25 MPH my gas pedal was responsive again and everything was normal...

    So end point, It felt like it may have fixed it at first, ran a little differently maybe a little "better" but the way it stalls is somewhat different with these partial stalls (i say partial because my car is responsive again and still runs without me having to turn the key off and back on) and it would sometimes feel as if the power and responsiveness of my car was going in and out over the period of a few seconds like it wants to die but tries its hardest to hang on
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    Try cleaning that airflow sensor... it look something like this on the car:


    Replacement is not cheap (probably about $100 for the sensor only, without housing), so don't replace it unless you have no other choice.

    I am still strongly convinced this is a sensor issue and not a mechanical problem. You might be able to run some electrical tests to see what circuitry (relay) is actually causing the engine to cut out (such as an automatic shutdown relay) - that may help narrow down the sensors that could lead to that failure. :confuse:
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • denzzdenzz Posts: 4
    Okay, well I didn't have the tool to take the actual sensor off the housing, but I sprayed in the tube where u see the wires at the end of the sensor is that good enough or may work partially but not fully? Becuase after i sprayed it down with cleaner and re assembled it, my car seemed to run better and not die, AT least now it does not die for a longer period of driving, i drove double the distance I used to be able to and it died once. the same way it has been, but cleaning that or a mixture of cleaning that and replacing my IAC valve seems to have helped it a lot, but it did still die once after the fact so that means the problem still is there right? i dunno if any of this info helps narrow it down.

    And i really appreciate your help thank you.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    At this point, I am purely speculating. If those adjustments/changes seemed to help quite a bit, perhaps it is a problem here. Do you know anyone with an Escort like your own (that runs properly)? Perhaps you could "borrow" the MAS on that one and see if it clears up your problem. I hate to recommend replacing it on a whim simply because it is so expensive, but it is also tough to move on to other possibilities when you cannot eliminate possibilities first.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • Update ,My brother in law said the flywheel may have come loose,so I took the trans. access plate off to see into the flywheel and all seems tight. However it made a cluncking noise when I first engauged the starter so I shut it off,when I went to restart it the starter just turns over not the motor. So I had my wife cranck it and I looked through the access hole and could see the flywheel and torgue converter spinning. But the motor wasn't. Is there a keyway that may have broke or something else.....
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    It would be very unusual for that to happen, but it is not impossible!

    The flywheel (flex plate on an automatic) connects to the crankshaft on the engine, usually by way of six bolts that are torqued to ~75 foot-pounds. If the flex plate and torque converter spin freely with the starter and crankshaft does not spin, that connection is now severed for whatever reason. Without splitting the units apart or scoping the area inside that access cover, we cannot know for sure.

    What concerns me more is why this would even happen! It may very well be a symptom of a bigger problem. Again, there is no way of knowing until you get in there to see the nature of the damage. :sick:
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • i have a 1991 ford escort 5 speed on floor Gt 1.9 liter in it 4 cylender. I have a problem with it not wanting to start. However u can push start it and it runs fine. Sometimes it will start right back up after u run it a while then sometimes it wont start at all. I know it wont start at all after it cold. When u turn the key on everything comes on it just wont turn over so if anyone has any answers please let me know i need to get my car back on the road i am tired pushing and walking everyhere ty
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    Please clarify "turn over," because different people connote that phrase differently. Do you mean that the starter fails to operate, or that it does operate but the engine does not fire?

    If the starter is not operating, it could be a bad ground or a bad solenoid. To check the ground, follow the negative battery cable to its terminus and make sure the connections are tight, as well as verifying that the cable is in good condition (no fraying at the connections, no corrosion). Sometimes, if the solenoid is going bad, you can tap the side of the starter with a hammer or mallet (lightly) while someone else is holding the ignition to "start," and it will engage. If you don't have someone to help you, you can also try tapping it, then attempting to start, but it might not be as effective.

    Another possibility is that the ignition itself has a bad connection, but I would check the other two possibilities first.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • run a compression check on it because my escort kinda does the same but i have a dead cyl. because of a bent valve in the head. hope this helps.
  • 95 ford Escort turns over but wont start. I checked the fuel and replaced the filter, gas is flowing and i pulled the spark pluggs and there is spark. But wont start..
    Also as i was driving home the car just died and only turns over or start. The past month or so sometimes it would turn over for a few sec before starting and others it would fire right up.. Anyone have ideas??
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