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Dodge Dakota Climate Control



  • how did you resolve this vent problem? my blower only blows out of the defrost and floor. i have a 2002 dakota as well.. : )
  • these messages do not tell you or show you where the control is for the vent flow. Mine is stuck on defrost and floor and will not change to vents. Is there no one who knows where this actually is ? Under the dash, what side, Under the hood ? What does it look like ? Is there a picture ?

    I do not want to take the dash out if it is not needed.

  • retired8retired8 Posts: 15
    I've read all 185 posts and didn't see my problem. Here goes: All controls work just fine. Air comes out of where it should, all 4 fan speeds work, air is hot and cold when it should be. The problem is just very gentle air flow. It's been this way since new. On high blower, it is the equivelent to low in any other car or truck. Fan makes plenty of noise, but if you put your hand in front of a vent, you can't feel the air unless you get within 7-8 inches of the vent. If you open a door, or roll a window down a couple of inches it increases air flow a little. Any ideas of things I could look into? Thank you.
  • dmeissnerdmeissner Posts: 1
    have a 98 dakota when the a/c is turned on it blows out the vents for a few seconds and then switches over to the defrost vent , anybody have any ideas
  • rcavrcav Posts: 1
    I have a 02 Dakota 5 speed and get a similar noise, if I depress the clutch a bit and release it the noise goes away for a while which leads me to think it has some thing to do with the throw out bearing. Like yours, only in very cold weather.
  • sdrunyansdrunyan Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my '05 Dakota. The air would blow feet and defrost together only. I discovered that there is an electric motor and lever system on the drivers side under the dash. I could hear the motor trying to move the lever but the airflow remained the same. I removed the motor (2 screws) and discovered 3 tabs that controlled the vent flaps that I could turn with my fingers. 2 of the tabs connect directly to a wheel with cut grooves in it and the 3rd tab connects to the grooved wheel with a long lever arm. The grooved wheel is turned by the electric motor to control which vents are open or closed.
  • divot4divot4 Posts: 1
    Hello All,
    I have a dakota that has an overheating problem only when I tow or haul hvy loads. I have flushed the coolant and checked the radiatot also. Tonite I pulled the plugs and it looks like I am getting some water in the cylinders, not much, about 2-4 quart ver 6-18 mo.'s. In addition the thing overheated two weeks ago and I noticed the electric fan doesn't come on. The only way it comes on is if I start the A/C, I have also replaced the fan clutch. Any suggestions, I have heard craked Head, bad head Gasket etc., this has gone on over 2 years. The first problem was when it was under no load and on loan to a friend. Since, it has done it when pulling a 14ft. aluminum boat. I am at my wits end, I will be pressure testing the system tomorrow, and have replace the cap already.????
  • jimmy247jimmy247 Posts: 1
    I recently took my truck to jiffy lube because I had no cold air coming from vents. he did diagnostic and said the level in tank was at 0 and he never came across that before. long story short, he filled tank with freon and it held pressure fine. the ac that cost me $150 to fill worked for about 4 nothing. Fans are blowing, light to ac on dash is on, but no cold air....anyone have this issue?

    Could I have a line leaking? Again...the tank apparently held the pressure.

  • dleahydleahy Posts: 7
    You have a leak plain and simple. My own truck developed a leak in the O rings sealing the lines at one point and the freon leaked out too. You need to take your truck to someone who specializes in AC and they can use a freon "sniffer" to locate where the leak/leaks are. Until you fix the leak, you're just wasting freon and money. Jiffylube owes you your money back for failing to diagnose where the freon went and then selling you more. They clearly don't have a clue how to work on your truck. Anytime a system is down on freon, it went somewhere. Leak. Good luck.
  • On my 01 the control motor is right above the accelerator pedal just above the edge of the bottom of the dash. Turn on the ignition to accessory and then the blower to it's lowest position. Adjust the vent switch while laying on the floor and watch and listen. The motor is right there and it turns a 3.5 inch wheel. It operates three items that fit into three groves. The one on the outside/motor side has a plastic rod the goes straight up about 7 inches to the defrost door. In my case one of the 2 screws holding the motor on was loose and that 7 inch rod came out of it's groove on the wheel. Pull the 2 motor screws out using a 5/16 driver or socket (it's a tight spot and I had to use a swivel and extension in my face). DON'T PULL THAT 7" ROD OFF CAUSE IT COMES OFF REALLY EASILY as does the 3.5" wheel once the motor is off. Mine had factory grease on it so you can simply stick the knob on the end of your 7" rod back into the groove on the wheel and carefully push the motor back on with it's screws and tighten it down. It worked for me the first time but I took everything apart which made it difficult to get it all back together. I didn't remove any ducting or dash components and I have big hands.
  • Yep, water on passenger floor big time. Wants to ream me some tube for realz, yo. Cant find the %^$#@! condensation drain tube anywhere in engine compartment. Anybody able to give directions to the hidden treasure?
  • I have a 2000 dakota 4x4 and the problem I am having is that the a/c compressor keeps running unless I turn the fan blower setting to off (there is no ac on/off button). I live in a cold part of the country, so when I have the temp control all the way to high heat and the selector turned all the way to the right to defrost, the compressor continues to run. Is it supposed to do that?
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    I think the AC compressor comes on automatically anytime the system is in defrost mode. In many vehicles, that will engage the AC compressor in order to dry out the air so as to more effectively defrosts the windows. I do not know if there is a low temperature cut off for that or not - one that will disable the AC compressor if the temperature is below a certain point.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Most "American-named" vehicles tend to turn on the AC compressor when in 'defrost' mode. Personally, I think it is the STUPIDEST design ever conceived. I much prefer to have a seperate AC button that lets me (the driver) control when the AC compressor is enguaged. They must think us Americans are idiots who do not know when to turn on the AC compressor.

    Here in Vermont, the winters are cold and dry, there is never any need to enguage the AC compressor when using defrost. Also, the AC compressor loads the engine and reduces MPG.

    With that said.... the 2000 Dakota has several settings which DO NOT enguage the AC compressor. With my 2000 Dak, I leave the knob set to "blow at floor" almost all year round. This DOES NOT enguage the AC compressor but DOES blow some air at the windshiled so it will defrost.
  • Yes there is a cut off point where below a certain temperature the Ac compressor will not come on. I prefer having a seprate AC button also. However many people do not know the windows defrost better with the AC on and with outside air. Also the compressor will last longer if it is operated at least once a month. Many people do not use Ac for long periods of time in colder climates, Havin the AC come on with defrost helps excercise the compressor when many people would not have it on.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    I too would prefer a separate AC switch, completely independent of the other settings on the HVAC panel.

    With everything in the car being computer controlled nowadays, there is no reason that they couldn't program in a "run the compressor every 30 days" algorithm into the BCM, or whatever it is that controls the compressor.

    Just another example of having to put up with an inconvenience because of the general ignorance of most car owners.
  • Had an intermittent problem with the blower on my heater not working. I knew the blower itself was fine, so I figured there was an open circuit somewhere. Sifted through a lot of comments online saying that it was most likely a bad/shorted resistor under the passenger side dash. Bought one for for a grand total of $12.10 and replaced it hoping to take the easy way out. I was crossing my fingers that my investment would solve the problem. It didn't. Then I went and looked at the contact pins on the old resistor. They looked fine. I saw no evidence of the connection getting hot.

    But anyway, to shorten this story. I can get the blower to work full blast pumping wonderful amounts of heat with one little thing I discovered by accident. If I just barely apply pressure to the key in the ignition (without actually turning enough to restart it), the blower comes on full blast and turns wonderfully. Should I assume there are some bad contacts in the ignition switch, or is my action creating a circuit that shouldn't be made under normal circumstances. I know this is a strange question, but any input would be appreciated.

  • My vent control on my dash, only works on defrost and floor mode, If i turn it to face vents i get nothing? Nothing on max a/c either.
    Not sure why, any ideas?

    If i turn it to all windshield vent ( defrost ) it works, and split windshield and floor vent it works,it just does not work on the face vents.

    I popped off the dash cover and removed the controller assemble to check the vacuum line leading to the back and there all connected, non looked blocked or cracked, and nothing was kinked either.

    Does anyone have a HVAC vacuum line diagram, so I can see what color vac line controls the face vents?

    any help would be awesome! I'm not looking forward to taking this issue to the dealer, I know they will rip me off for this repair!

  • Can anybody tell me where the resistor is located thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I am assuming you are asking about the blower-motor resistor. Keep in mind that the resistor itself is mounted inside the air-plenum so the flowing air can keep it cool. Without airflow, it would run red-hot and burn up quickly.

    Depends on what year you Dak is... but on my 2000 it is under the Dash behind the glovebox. One electrical plug and 2 screws and it comes right out. The part costs about $15.

    This webpage may help you out.
  • I have a 01 Dakota with the 4.7. recently it stopped blowing hot air, just warm. i have replaced the thermostat, and it worked great.. for a week. did i do something wrong or did something else go bad?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It sure sounds as if you have air trapped in the system.

    The 4.7 L semi-hemi can be tricky to "burp" all the air out of the cooling system. There is a special air-valve located at the highest point of the system to assist in "burping" the air out.

    Dont forget to check the resivour regularly for about a month. Each time the engine cools, it will suck in more antifreeze.
  • terrys2terrys2 Posts: 24
    First make sure the coolant is full. Don't rely on the reservoir level. Take the radiator cap off when cold and be sure the radiator is full. If the cap is bad or if there is a leak in the hose to the reservoir it will not draw coolant back into the radiator when the engine cools off. Also if you had an air pocket when you filled it up you could have been low on coolant from the start.
    Then with the engine at operating temp. and the heater on high both heater hoses should be hot. If one is cool the heater core may be plugged or if it has a heater control valve it may not be all the way open.
    It is also possible that your blend door is not operation properly. You could have a bad thermostat. Not likely but possible.
  • I have the same problem with the vents in my 1999 Dakota except when not under load, all works fine. When accelerating, all face vents go to defrost. I assume its related to vacuum . Did you find a solution? I could not find where anyone answered your thread. Thanks TOm
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Not sure if this is related, but most cars I'm familiar with (our Dodge minivans being a prime case), when the engine is under load (accelerating), the AC compressor disengages and the HVAC system switches over to recirculate, so as to not pull hot air into the vehicle. I don't remember if, when this happens, the HVAC goes to defrost mode or not.
  • terrys2terrys2 Posts: 24
    This sounds like a bad check valve on a vaccum reservoir.
  • seabee92seabee92 Posts: 1
    Today I changed out the waterpump on my 2001 3.9l Dodge Dakota Quad cab. Overall it wentt farly easy until it came time to start it up and admire the handywork I had done.Upon starting it I noticed temp gauge till the check engine light came on. I shut the truck off and checked the expansion tank which hadplenty of fluid in it. I have looked all over the internet and dixcovered the art of burping the cooling system. Every site talked about opening a bleeder. I have yet to locate this bleeder I have been letting the enigine run till the temperature creeps half walf between the midway and heat line in the hopes that whatever air is there will bleed out.Is there another way or a better way of doing this.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Anytime I've had to bleed a cooling system, I just used the radiator cap. Start with the engine cold, open the cap, and start the engine up. Make sure the heating/cooling system controls are set so that coolant is circulating through the heater core also. Let the engine run until the thermostat opens up and the engine tries to reach normal operating temperature (which it may not do with the cap off and the system unpressurized). Any air bubbles should find their way to the radiator and escape via the open cap.

    Let the engine cool down and top off the coolant. May have to repeat this a couple of times.
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