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Dodge Dakota Climate Control



  • redeldo1redeldo1 Posts: 1
    Does anyone know if the 2001 Dakota SLT has a cabin filter and if so where is it located?

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I dont think it has one.
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 417
    edited July 2010
    okay bruce, after 200k on my 2000 quad cab, i FINALLY am having some weirdness with it. as you may recall, it's never been in the shop for anything other than a routine synthetic oil or tranny fluid change. i did have the rear-end checked /lubed once. 6 sets of tires too, rotors turned, then i replaced them myself. lol anyway, my a/c is doing hinky things now. as you may recall, i've got the semi-hemi and the extra duty cooling package, etc. on one of the very first of the delivered quads in Texas. came off the first trainload.
    i recently had a drop off in a/c efficiency. i've always run it on high a/c-high fan setting here in the 'dry tropics' of w. texas. sooooo, i got the a/c refill bottle thingy, went through the refill process watching the gauge drop nicely into the green, using about half a bottle, noticed the cooling efficiency improve in the cab as well. everything nice and tidy. until just the other day. and now it just blows warm air. not hot, but warm. about what it was doing before i added the 134a. okay, leak right? well, not so fast.
    oddly, the a/c compressor runs normally, fan blows normally and what's really weird is that when i hook the bottle back up to the low pressure port, it is solidly in the green, so apparently it's got a good charge of juice. hmmmmm... fan works, switches are all good, compressor works (not cycling, just on or off), yet temps are warm. turn the temp up to 'hot' and it'll fry your (hot dog) weenie. just no cold air.

    any ideas on this little mystery?

    jack b :-) in midland, tx usa

    coincidentally, we've got an 04 lincoln LS that has about 50k on it. it's just started blowing ice cold only (max low setting only) - no heat. i think we've figgered that'n out, but it happened at the same time. w. tx. just kills a/c units!
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Seals internal to the compressor???
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 417
    interesting thought. still wondering about that 'full charge.' you know, now that i've thought about it a bit more, for the first 160k or so it often whistled when it started cooling, and then quit (but kept cooling nicely). in fact my kids used to call my truck 'the whistler.' i'd forgotten about that. it was a high pitched whistle that just tapered off and then quit, but it didn't always do it and cooled well, so i just left it alone.
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 417
    bled a little hot air out of the low pressure port, then put in about 18 oz. of 134a (19 oz. arctic freeze brand for $45). it cooled the inlet pipe down just briefly, but not much out of the dash vents. the clutch is cycling normally, and the blower blows strong and correctly at all speeds. the gauge reads 55 psi and then goes down to 20 psi or so when the clutch kicks in, rising in about 10 seconds back up to 55 psi. this cycles over and over. still warm air, when i turn the temp knob up it rapidly heats the vent air, so the blender must be working. the horn-a/c bus is good as the horn toots fine. cant' see any leaks or evidence that there's ever been one. still a mystery...
    jack b :-)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It sounds as if you have coverd most of the bases.... however, a *real* A/C guy would hook up guages to BOTH the high and low side. Simply by observing the behavious of the guages, (and the temparture of the compressur-inlet pipe) he could diagnose WHATEVER is wrong with the system. (freon-charge state, plugged airflow thru evaporator, reciever-drier issue, ice buildup within system... etc)

    I know the above to be true because I have cousin who does A/C work for a living and have seen him diagnose A/C problems by using ONLY those 3 connections (High pressure, Low pressure, and compresser-inlet temp)

    I would say that your best approach is to find someone who has those skills.

    HOWEVER: Before doing that, I would personally verify that the pressure-switches on the high and low side are working as expected. It is the pressure-switches which control the A/C clutch and cutout.

    Be aware, the ONLY way your system could have needed freon is because it leaked out in the first place. I am suspecting you do have some kind of leak.
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 417
    thanks bruce. i figgered 'bout as much, but wanted to see what i could fix on my own since i have superierre rv mechanicalizing skillz. i can use duck tape and vise grips with the best of em. ;-)=
    update: i put another 6 or so oz. in it (about 24 oz. total, after burping the hot air out a few times), and it cooled down ever so slightly, not much at all. another oddity is a noise, similar to a clothes pinned playing card in bicycle spokes. if y'all aren't familiar with that sound, then you don't need to be reading any further. for those of you that do, you'll understand the duck tape 'n vise grips comment...
    anyway, the noise just increases with fan speed, and it's definitely coming from the blend box in front of the front seat passenger's feet. i unscrewed a few screws, and wiggling the box cover changes the sound noticeably. uh oh.
    pro'lly gonna leave it for the a/c guys downtown.
    i've got other stuff that needs attention on it more than that, particularly an odd 'cutting out' situation that's just developed. i'll go through the connectors, dirty distributor, etc. list before i get back on here and whine about it. speaking of rv's, my onan has quit putting out current on our smaller telstar motorhome, sooooo on to that little nuisance. gotta have it runnin' by manana evenin' or there'll be hell to pay!

    jack b :-) in midland, tx usa
  • Have you tried replacing the blower motor resistor (BMR)? It's about $15.00 here in the comfy, summer temperatues of San Antonio. I was vactioning during the summer in New MX and Colorado when mine went out. At first it blew warm air. Then the speed significantly reduced on my blower fan. Eventually, High speed just quit. I researched the crap out of it on the net and found that a cheap fix might be the BMR. Location: if you were sitting in the passenger seat, right above your feet, there is a small panel on the bottom of the blower motor. Kind of hard to get at, but an easy fix once you do. 2 screws, drop down, may need to move the vent, unhook old BMR insert new BMR, replace unit, replace screws. You have to snap the little plastic tabs off of the ends of the BMR housing or else it won't fit into place. It's cheap, fairly easy and if you haven't replaced it in 200,000 mi, it can't hurt to do it. It's lifetime warranteed too. I bought mine at A.Z. Good luck and hope this helps. Love my 01 Dakota quad cab SLT at 130,000 mi and going strong. -Dakota-2WD/_/N-jf9dqZ91tag?counter=0&itemIdentifier=794687_0_3330_
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 417
    you know what? actually, i haven't. i've seen it discussed here and there, but since the blower was working 'okay' i haven't noticed that it's slowing down on high speed, but i went out and checked it, and it seems to be a bit less air than it used to be. when i get back to civilization in a coupla weeks i'll replace the thing. thanks for the response, and it won't hurt to do it, as you say, since it's got 200k on it, and i'll likely never sell it.
    you might or might not have been around this group back in 2000 when we started it up, but i actually autocrossed my quad when it was new. won several trophies as well, then 'retired it' to the field for about 5-6 years of hard work and 130+ mile per day commuting. it still looks new, now has a camper shell on it, and i replaced the r/t wheels i'd put on it for the originals (more rubber for a smoother ride).
    i'll let you know if the resistor fixes it. still flummoxed as to why it just blows warm air. jack b :-) in midland, tx usa
  • I posted a question in post #202, My ignition switch was in fact bad. My truck started fine and ran fine, but the blower wasn't running. The tumblers were good. The truck didn't have to be rekeyed, but the cheap ignition switch module did have to be replaced. It works fine now.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I fully understand the "clothes pinned playing card in bicycle spokes" sound. It is very good description.

    I assume you realize that something is physically touching the squirril-cage fan of the blower. I have had to take these apart a couple times over the years because of such a noise. All I can tell you is that I have found everything from dry-leaves to dead mice.

    Your only recourse is to access the blower-motor. There should be several screws holding it on...the squirril-cage fan should come out attached to the motor.
  • The AC blower motor on my 2001 Dodge Dakota 2wd 4.7 V8 works great. I lowered it from under the dash and it runs great on all 4 settings. However when it is installed there is no air blowing from the vents on the side of the dash and only a small amount from the vents beside the radio and ac control panel. The air that does blow out is cold but is weak at best. The gate that regulates external and recirculated air on MAX was stuck half way open when i removed the blower motor and cage but I messed with it and now it works fine. Is there an electrical component that works the internal gates for the vents on my dash that are not working that i can replace to fix this?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Those flappers within the air-plemum may be VACUUM operated. You may have a weak vacuum-signal to them.
  • I have never had the dash off of this truck. Knock on wood it now has 323,000 miles and it is running really good. I would love to get my moneys worth out of it. Oh i did buy it new. :) But seriously, can you put that in shade tree terms. Where are the VACUUM lines? Are they behind the control panel I would assume? and you also said vacuum-signal. Is that a signal from a hose or from an electrical componant? I did see on another forum that another guy had the same problem and it turned out his evaporator core was clogged with dirt. I was able to get a peek at mine and it was filthy. I did spray foaming coil cleaner on it and it did help some but the flappers still do not seem to be all the way open. Any ideas???
  • mine is a 2000 model, so naturally it doesn't fit. it did fit my business partner's 2001 though, so thanks! my part number is 'cr152' and it's about 30 bux. don't know where it goes as it looks different, but it's not my a/c problem anyway, so i won't need it right now. thanks though...
  • I have a 2002 Dodge Dakota SXT 4x4 that is not blowing air at all. I turn the knob and nothing. It quick working and then about a week later I turned the knob and it started working. That lasted about a day then quit again and has not worked since. Any suggestions?
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    If it's not working on any speed, either the switch is intermittent or you have a flaky connection somewhere.

    If it doesn't work on anything but the highest speed, than it may be the resistor that's used to drop the voltage to the blower motor and thus reduce the fan speed.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited October 2010
    This has been asked and answerd about 100 times in these forums... the "search" button would have given you an answer pretty quickly.

    HINT: blower resister - part costs under $20

    Again, the 'search' function will tell you WHERE it is located and HOW to replace it.
  • I have a 2000 dakota slt quad cab, 4.7, 103,000 miles. The a/c works fine for 15 minutes and then blows warm stale air. This will happen every time i use the truck. Guages show freon levels are good. Now that it is winter, the heat blows fine for 15 minutes, then blower still works but sounds louder(deeper) and flow of air is much less. Air is warm(not hot). Any suggestions??

    Thank you
  • I have a 2000 dakota slt quad cab, 4.7, 103,000 miles. The a/c works fine for 15 minutes and then blows warm stale air. This will happen every time i use the truck. Guages show freon levels are good. Now that it is winter, the heat blows fine for 15 minutes, then blower still works but sounds louder(deeper) and flow of air is much less. Air is warm(not hot). Any suggestions??

    Thank you
  • 2006 Dodge Dakota (75,000 mi)- Two intermittent problems:

    1. When I change selector from floor to dash (actually any change), a loud clicking sound starts from the middle of the dash, and may or maynot stop after a while.

    2. Fan speed varies although the speed control has not been touched.

    Any ideas would be appreciated, 'cause I love my truck except for this, thanks
  • I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota (3.7L). My air blower just quit today. I was hoping it was a fuse but I pulled all of them and none seemed to be blown. I am pretty sure that I am feeling a trickle of cool air so I think the aircon unit is working.

    Does anyone have any suggestions before I bite the bullet and go to a dealer?

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Suspect the blower-resister... it is a very-VERY common item to burn out. The blower-resister is used to provide the various "speeds" of the blower. (more resistance = lower voltage = slower motor speed)

    Last I knew, a replacement is about 12 bucks. (plus a few minutes to access the burnt one to replace it.)
  • larryfastlarryfast Posts: 2
    Hi, my 2000 dakota just started with this same problem. Could you tell me how you fixed yours or do I have to take it in. Thank-you, Larry
  • larryfastlarryfast Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota. The bearings or clutch at the front of the compresser by the pulley are shot. Can I repair this myself or do I have to take it in.

    Thank you,

  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    You can certainly replace the entire compressor unit yourself. If you do, you will have to get the system recharged/purged.

    I do not know if the clutch and/or bearings themselves are replaceable or not. If you take it to any repair shop, I'm betting they will replace the entire compressor unit anyway.
  • Vehicle: 2002 Dakota 4.7 L SLT. My AC blower fan was only working on high about six weeks ago, so I replaced the resistor as suggested in the online forums. The fan worked properly for about 5 weeks, then stopped working at all speeds.

    After a couple of days of wondering why this happened I decided i may have connected something improperly so i reached under the dash and wiggled the connector on the resistor. To my surprise (and delight) the fan came on and functioned normally again…for about ten minutes. Then it stopped working again.

    As the very busy person I am (aren’t we all?), i wiggled again, the fan came back to life, and I made a mental note to “look at” the connection and see where it was loose. This went on for four days; fan quits, driver wiggles plug, fan starts. I got very adept at doing this even while driving (not recommended).

    On day five, shortly after the wiggle, i noticed a “melting plastic” smell filling the cab. Upon reaching down to wiggle yet again I realized the wires to the plug were the source of the smell. They were hot enough to burn me when I touched them. After letting everything cool off, I removed the “new resistor” and noticed it was burned in one pin of the plug, plus the insulation was burned off the wire going to that plug for about a half-inch. I though maybe I had gotten a bad resistor so I bought another and plugged it in. When I turned on the fan, the wire started heating up again (it did this in all fan positions).

    I'm at the point now where I’ve pulled the blower motor but want to test it before i shell out $100 to replace it. Anyone have any suggestions? The standard auto parts stores dont have a way of testing the blower motor. It runs fine until the wiring heats up so i don;t know if it’s getting bad and starting to draw too many amps or if there is a wiring problem I need to track down. Thanks for any help!
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    You could have just had a bad/higher-than-normal-resistance connection, which by itself would cause heating through I^2*R loss. These connections usually don't heal themselves, but rather they get progressively worse over time. If that's what your situation was, I'm not surprised that the connector melted from the heat.
  • terrys2terrys2 Posts: 24
    Common problem with bad connection/high resistance in the blower connection. You can buy a new connector from Dodge and splice it into the wiring.
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