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Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems



  • I have a 2005 Town & Country Limited with 34,000 miles bought new. For the past 6 months or so if the car sits without being driven for a week or so the battery is just dead and the car won't start and is completely dead. If it is driven every few days the battery is fine and the car starts fine and drives fine. I've had 3 brand new Die Hard batteries and now a brand new Interstate battery and this keeps happening. I've been to the Chrysler dealer several times and he found nothing. Finally, last time he said I needed a new fuse box which would cost $650. I got the same repair done by a very reputable local garage I use for $450 but this problem still persists. The garage told me that the car is only drawing 3 mAmps from the battery when it is not on. He couldn't think of anything that could be causing this problem and suggested I get a trickle charger. The only other history this vehicle has is that several years ago it was in an accident involving the right front fender and right door which was repaired by a body shop. There has to be something causing the battery to die after 1 week of non-use but it obviously recharges when driven often enough. Any ideas?
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    If what the garage told you is accurate - that the car is only drawing 3 mA when off, then any battery should last months without driving. There is probably more leakage through the battery itself than 3 mA.

    After you park the car knowing it's not going to be driven for a week or more, disconnect the battery at the negative terminal. Then, hook it back up when you're ready to drive it and see if the car starts. If it does, then the 3mA measurement was probably made after the source of the leak, or maybe the value was really 3 amps?

    I'm not surprised that replacing the fuse box did not fix the problem.
  • If I leave my dash light rotary switch in anything but off the next morning I am unable to start my car. The starter will just whir and the tac and speedometer will peg out on the high side. The other day after driving over 100 miles I stopped at a drive in and left the key turned on for about two minutes so I could operate the window and the car would not start. It doesn't take a lot of charge from a jumper cable but does anyone have any ideas?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,920
    Have you had the battery checked? It could be that it is simply worn out. If you have no problems while the engine is running, the alternator is working just fine.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • The headlights and turn signals suddenly stopped working on the town & country 1995. Harards, parking and other lights working ok. Can someone let me know what is going on. Thanks for your assistance.
  • Ok, I have a 97 DGC sport with 219,178 miles on it and have been doing nothing but trying to find an answer for the stalling out of nowhere that has left me and my family not only in unsafe situations because you have no warning for when this will happen but also is costing way too much. Then I came acrossed this forum and I am almost 100% positive I found the answer but I have two questions. The answer would deffinatly be the Circuit Board behind the dash, 1. We have had our van down this time for 2 days strait (nevermind how many times it died leaving us to have it towed in last 4 weeks) I told my husband about hitting the dash (which he did about two months ago accidentally and the van started so when I pointed it out he said I was crazy) He did try hitting it but said it did not start so is it possable that this has just been happening so long that that "hitting the dash" idea surpassed? 2 has anyone found the video that shows what to solder? I did find the pics but it sounds like the video shows a little more detail.
  • When we had our '77 VW Rabbit, it would stall out--then after 20 minutes to an hour it would start OK. After many EXCITING adventures and a hot cross-country trip, we found it to be caused by a faulty fuel pump relay that VW supplemented with a short jumper. Good luck!
  • I found out that the airbag lite when lit, also controls horn & cruze. I have the same problem and was told that its most likely to be the clock spring went bad. Thats located under the air bag. You can also bypass the clock spring to get the other things working again. I bough my clock spring for $60.00. I have yet to put it in. To cold. I did a lot of looking on google about it .Bought it at.. GOPART.COM. :)
  • Here is one for you...1996 T&C...Turn signals quit...but flashers worked. Could turn on flashers, turn on signal then turn off flashers and signal would work....usually. Had a new "multi-function switch" installed ($500) signals. Next month, cruise became intermittent. Then dash gauges flat-lined (Lit nicely but stayed zeroed. Took it to a different garage...They replaced the "multi-function switch" again...told me all was well and the dash lights worked again...I pointed out they had ALWAYS was the gauges that were finicky. Paid $700, started the signals and no gauges....and no cruise. Then the van would not start...sometimes I could shake the van and it would it clicks once and sits there no matter what I do. When the gauges are not working, neither are the automatic door locks. When it does start, I never know what will work and what will not. Sometimes things start or stop working while I am driving. I caught it at a good moment and had the annual safety inspection done....pulling out of the drive, the turn signal quit as I left. (at least I remember hand signals). It has never died on me when driving. So....what is causing all this? No one at the garage seems to know.
  • I have almost the same issue on my 97 T&C since the day we bought the vehicle the windshield wipers would come on all by them selves and shut down after a few strokes. about 10 months ago the vehicle just started shutting down I have replace all the O2 sensors and have had it on the computer several times with no luck just out a few hundred bucks. I think there is a short somewhere in the steering column but I have no idea on how to proceed
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,920
    Most likely a faulty connection to or a faulty BCM (body control module) itself. Problems with that unit can illicit all sorts of symptoms at random. :mad:
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • wwmswwms Posts: 1
    I have had a similar problem with my 2005 XLE. It has happened 5 times since Dec. Car is fine, then I move it and maybe load some things in and leave the doors open for less than 15 min. and it won't start. AAA came the first time and said I need new battery. Sams checked batt. and said it was fine. No problems for a month and same thing happened. Other times I've cleaned out car for over an hour with doors open and it starts fine. Alternator?? Let me know if you figure it out. I'm going to check on a loose connection too.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,920
    You might consider cleaning the battery posts and the clamps really well with a wire brush and spraying them with some anti-corrosion spray. Sometimes it can look like the connections are good and tight, yet there is resistance in there that is not allowing for sufficient current.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • sissy42sissy42 Posts: 5
    I have a 1998 T & C LXI. The problem I am having is that my door ajar light has started to appear on the instrument panel (while driving) on its own (chimes every time it appears) which turns on the interior lights even though all the doors are locked. Then the locks keep tyring to lock. I had to turn off the interior lights. Has anyone else experienced this problem? At first it did in once, but today it has done it every time I get into my car. A couplle of days later all was good, but now it's doing it again. Any help is appreciated before I have to shell out a bunch of $$$ to diagnose the issue
  • kochesekochese Posts: 11
    edited March 2010
    I also have this problem :cry: same thing 98 t&c lxi I also need an answer. Ilove this car... :Lately i have been slaming the back hatch i think it may be the button. :blush:
  • sprajamsprajam Posts: 1
    my wife has told me about something with our 98 Chrysler T&C it seems the abs lights battery lights well she says all the lights come on periodicly then they turn off. got any ideas for what to look at when i inspect it or maybe someone has had this happen or knows what is the cause. we just recently had problems with the power steering and found that it was just a bad high pressure hose.
  • krl2krl2 Posts: 5
    My 2005 T&C turn signals have gone crazy. Sometimes fine, sometimes don't work,sometimes just turn off after being on for 5 seconds. Sometimes when I turn on right signal, the left comes on. This is all day long. Any one else have this problem, & what did you do to correct it?
  • alpineralpiner Posts: 8
    I had a power drain problem like yours and confirmed the exact leakage by removing the negative cable and connected a FLUKE vom between the battery lug and the cable end with the vom set on amps. It read 8 or 9 amps. Bad alternator!
    I have an suv that I need to drive once a week or it will drain the battery.
  • alpineralpiner Posts: 8
    You just have to break down and buy the certified electrical diagrams and find out where some boob on the assembly line put an inch and one half screw where a 3/4 inch should have gone and routed the cable so it stretched. This happened to me and the rear lift gate/hatch wires were shorting at times.
  • batfieldbatfield Posts: 1
    We are having the exact same problem, seems to have started after the van sat for almost aweek after the last big snow storm in West Virginia. I am checking on replaceing the signal control modual.
  • krl2krl2 Posts: 5
    Malfunction turn signals, I just had mine fixed, it was the multi function switch. Mine was under warranty, I lucked out this time. All is ok now.
  • buitronbuitron Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 town and country. it has just developed this problem. The van starts fine and runs fine. once it warms up and you shut off the vehicle. It will not start again. It is not the battery, not the alternator. It does not make any type of grinding sound. It is just a click. I had a mechanic look at it. We switched out some relay switches but all of the old ones were good. He is telling me that it is not the computer. I am wondering if it is the computer. any thoughts?

  • amandashamandash Posts: 14
    You did not comment on the starter. So that check should be done. When you experience the problem use a direct jumper to the starter and see if it spins up. Had a similar problem with a nissan recently.
  • sissy42sissy42 Posts: 5

    A friend of mine that works on cars had this happen to him also. He replaced the door switch (black button if you manually press it in and out controls the interior lights in the car) on my driver's side and so far so good. He hasn't gotten around to replacing his yet as he's been under the weather. This made be your problem as well. :)
  • kochesekochese Posts: 11
    thank you 4 the info ill do it .. thanks again
  • sissy42sissy42 Posts: 5
    Your welcome. Let me know if it works.
  • rusty1fan2001rusty1fan2001 Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    Im having problems with my stereo it keeps cutting out when you turn it up loud.Is there a amp for stereo and where is it located?Also door ajar light stays on and door locks go crazy while driving and interior lights stay on.Also wipers work only sometimes on intermittent.Thanks Please help me RT
  • sissy42sissy42 Posts: 5
    I haven't had any issues with my stereo, but I had my driver's side door switch replaced last week and I am no longer having problems with door ajar light, door locks and the interior lights. When I was having the problem I turned off my interior lights, but the door ajar light and the locks kept going crazy. I haven't had the wiper issue. Hope this helps.
  • rananranan Posts: 1
    Hi,I i have 2003 T&C limited and I have the same problem and no one find out what the problem is,I bought this van used ,it was a trailer hitch but no wiring that I can see.

    I already spent over 80 bucks but no one can find the problem,now they are telling me that i need new BCM ,or other guy is saying he need to pull the carpet and look for wiring fault

    please help

  • rpittmonrpittmon Posts: 5
    I would whole heartedly recommend having the Chrysler folks to "flash" the BCM--that just means they hook it up to their computer for any updates that have not been done. We had all sorts of electrical problems with our 2002 T&C until they FINALLY did that.
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