Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems



  • ty for reply
  • ziegzieg Posts: 3
    I recently replaced the fuel pump and the fuel relay switch. I can't get the fuel pump to work or any electric charge. I took my test light to check the green and gray wires going to the fuel pump. I get an occasional intermittent electrical response. When I connect the wires to the pump, I get no response. What do I need to do to get the fuel pump to work? Please help with any suggestions?
  • ziegzieg Posts: 3
    I couldn't believe it. A brand new fuel pump was bad! I recently purchased a new fuel pump, but couldn't get it to work. I towed the Caravan to a Dodge dealer to have them check for fault codes. The mechanic found DTC 42 which is auto shutdown relay circuit, an open or short in the ASD relay wiring or connectors. They suggested that I replace the fuel pump which I just did. So, I exchanged the fuel pump that I just purchased at Checker Auto for another fuel pump. After installing another new fuel pump, it started immediately and runs great! Crazy!
  • mcrevxmcrevx Posts: 2
    Ok I was driving the van when it was a little misty rain outside and the gauges went dead and the van stalled and then wouldn't restart waited a few minutes and it restarted now the fuel pump stays on the key switch is on and vehicle not running and the speedometer stopped working so took it to autozone to have the computer checked and the obd II said linking error so took to a garage and same thing happened so not sure what to check?
  • brokolbrokol Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    Have you still this problem or may be you fix it??
    I asked because I have exactly the same problem (T&C 2008 ).

    "I have a Chrysler 2008 T&C. The thing is possessed. The horn goes on and stays on, the wipers kick on and the lights kick on all by themselves. Happens when I am driving it, making it dangerous to drive. It has also happened by me just hit the unlock button on the keyfab! I saw a few similar posts but didn't see any solid fixes... Please help, dealer can't figure it out!"
  • van has been running fine with the exception of crazy dash lights
    this week car would not start battery completly flat
    charged it up started fine
    next day flat agin
    put battery charger on and alarm sounded hit open on key fob and alarm went off
    charged all night not enough to turn over
    removed battery charged agian (battery is charged) now when fitted to car absolutly nothing works no interior lights or anything its like the battery is not connected
    is there a main fuse or something
    is there a security anti theft i activated some how
    any suggestions welcome ....please
  • Where is the 10d fuse located in the vehicle? I don't mind to pull it out occassionally. How often do you have to pull it out?
  • Thanks for posting this message. This is the second time I went through this procedure. The first time I couldn't make them go away and had the dealer do it for a mere $70. My battery went dead again and I had to disconnect it to get it tested and charged where I bought it. After reconnecting it, to my dismay the AC and Recirc buttons started blinking again. After following your procedure, I couldn't make it go away. After more research on the web, I found out that there are two types of tests, this test is called Recalibration test, the other one is called COOL DOWN test. It is very similar but you warm up the car with the AC off. Then run the test exactly as defined above (blower motor on high, all AC outlets open, the temperature set to cold,but push the AC button and the rear wash button simultaneously (instead of the rear wiper and the wash buttons). Let the test run for a few minutes and when the rear wiper LED is the only light blinking, push the rear wiper button to exit the test mode. The AC and the recirc buttons should stop blinking.
  • Clockspring is a recall on many Caravans. Chrysler will replace at no charge for a life-time. Just had second installed today under recall.
  • Hi Everyone,

    I have been having a problem with my 2004 Grand Caravan. Any insight or suggestions that you may have are greatly appreciated.

    The Problem:
    - My head lights (and other lights) flicker. It's bad enough that at night I occasionally get people flashing their high-beams at me.
    - This isn't an on/off left/right issue based on high beam/low beam usage etc that I have read about other people having problems with
    - Here, the head lights are both still on but quickly go normal-dim-normal-dim etc. If I had to guess I'd say somewhere in the 5-15 cycles per second range.
    - When this happens the dash lights flicker the same way. So too will the other interior lights if turned on
    - One sure fire trigger for this is the left/right indicator signal. If I'm driving down the highway and signal to change lanes the flickering goes crazy. Once the turn signal is off, the flickering slowly decays/dies down. But this will still happen on it's own without using the signal.
    - I can also get the flicker if I bring the RPMs up to 2000 to 3000 when parked in the driveway.

    I bought the van used in 2007 and quickly experienced this problem. The dealer that I got it from replaced the alternator and cleaned up the fuse box connectors and the problem was fixed for a year or so and then it came back. Has anyone else experienced this? Is it an alternator problem/ voltage regulator problem ... are they that flakey? Or is the root cause something else that happens to putting too much of a load on the alternator and cooking it? I really do not want to be replacing the alternator every year or 2.

    What I have done so far:
    - cleaned the battery terminals
    - removed and cleaned (contact cleaner etc) all relays and fuses from the block next to the battery
    - removed and cleaned (contact cleaner etc) all wiring harness connectors to the under side of the fuse block
    - removed and cleaned (contact cleaner etc) and "tweaked" the pins of the BCM on the front side of the fuse block
    - inspected wiring where I could (certainly not 100%)
    - removed head lights, cleaned contacts
    - removed tail lights, clean contacts ... one interesting point here is that when I did this I found that while the tail light lenses look identical from the exterior, the inside was different. The drivers side has bulbs with square sockets (3057 bulbs) where as the passenger side has bulbs (and associated mounts) with round sockets (2057/1057). I was extremely surprised by this. I can only assume that the prior owner wrecked the passenger side tail light and picked up some cheap aftermarket one.

    Still no luck.


  • Ok I fixed the problem it was the ECM . I bought a used one and did not have to reprogram it, it worked great.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Sounds like a bad ground connection to me. The fact that the lights don't go out completely, but just dim supports this contention. You seem to be looking in the right places, just have to keep plugging away at it. I know, troubleshooting these kinds of problems can be frustrating and time consuming.

    To help narrow down the problem, can you ohm-out (check the continuity of) of the return from the headlights back to the negative terminal of the battery? That should read much less then 1 ohm. A similar test would be to back-probe the return pin at the connector to the headlight bulb with a voltmeter, and measure the voltage there when the headlights are on. It should be, at most a fraction of a volt. Anything more, and that's indicative of a higher than expected resistance in the return path.
  • if i ground out the yellow wire that goes to the ignition switch everything works help me
  • Im having the same problem bought my 08 T&C on 5/26/09 and it had been in the dealership 9 times!!! Thursday will make it the 10th time! I'm having issues with my sliding doors passenger side opens and the headlights flash, all the cluster gauges go off, and windshield wipers come on while making a dinging warning noise. The drivers side opens about 12" and then shuts and god forbid my kids put their hand in the way because the obstacle detection is gone and it will smash your arm or hand! This car has been a NIGHTMARE, when I first got it the 3rd row seat jammed and it took 4 times in the dealership to repair that and one of those 4 times it was in an ENTIRE week and the dealership wont give me a loaner!! Not to mention the 4 sets of Rotors Ive put on it and new pads!! I have never had so much trouble out of a car! Obviously there are major problems because of so many people having the same complaints, I can see why Chrysler is bankrupt their product is crap, this is the 1st and last I will own! :mad:
  • 08's are known for being a geat big P-O-S but most other years are too. I have heard the new ones 2010 & 2011 are huge improvements but not worth the gamble in my opinion.

    Mini Van Dad
  • I have a 2003 T/C with similar problems. First the battery light goes on. Then the gauges start jumping and flickering, Then the speedometer PEGS and stays there. The Radio has momentary cut outs lasting about a second, and the engines starts MISSING. The Headlights dim. When the engine is OFF and the ignition switch is in accessory, the Radio still starts and stops.
    It makes no difference if the A/c is on or off.

    Holding the trip odometer button in while shutting down the engine (and holding it until the diagnostics start up) gives a code of 400E. Then the gauges reset. When I restart things are normal but soon it all starts over again.

    This has been going on for a year and the mechanics can't figure it out.
  • jeffscismjeffscism Posts: 4
    edited March 2011
    Not the same BRAND, but my chevy malibu did the same thing, it turned out it was an anti-theft device. If the under dash alarm switch was knocked by my knee getting in, it would not allow thew car to start for five minutes, which is an anti-car theft mandate built in to that car. (There was no way around it, you HAD to wait 5 minutes) Not sure if it applies to ant T/cs but it was similar.
    It would allow the car to start, then it shut down. So I would say there is a auto shut down error code being activated somewhere, perhaps by low-voltage.
  • reonreon Posts: 19
    These kinds of mysteries usually involve poor grounds.

    Wait for a sunny week end and check every single ground connection you can find. Remove the bolt and sand the terminal and chassis connection. Check the ones on the motor mounts too. Be sure to disconnect the battery first! Doesn't cost anything except some time and while you're doing all this I bet you find other things too.
  • viz1viz1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2010 town and country that is stalling out. It is still under warranty. The dealership "thinks" it's a problem with they key switching into the acc position which essentially stalls the car. Since the dealership cannot get the problem to happen in front of them they are unwilling to fix. The las time it stalled I looked and indeed the key had moved to the acc position. I have tried two dealerships and called Chrysler customer service....they all say they understand my frustration but I am still driving an unsafe car. It has stalled 3 times while driving and 2 times right after I started the car. Anyone else had this problem or provide info on how I might get this fixed
  • lsb0453lsb0453 Posts: 4
    I can repair dash board problems similar to this:
    The symptoms are intermittent starting problems.
    It will not start for no reason whatsoever, then start fine a while later.
    Sometimes it will start then die, start then die, and then not start.
    When it won't start, there is no power to the starter and the dash gauges do not work, but the headlights work fine.
    Please feel free to give my email address out to anyone who may need help with their board.
    Hope to hear from you soon
  • cententcentent Posts: 6
    I am having this problem with my 98 T / C. The car starts, then dies right a way, then it starts and dies, starts and dies, then nothing. The dash board doesn't work during this. Then I unhook the positive battaery cable and leave it for 15-30 minutes. Then I can hook it up and it is fine for a time. Has happened twice in two days though.
  • lsb0453lsb0453 Posts: 4
    The dash board must be removed from the dash.
    It sounds like you have the typical problem.
    I can fix it.
    I will need it for about 4 hours.
  • lcarlcar Posts: 1
    This is happening to our 2007 T&C. Dealer won't trouble shoot. Says he'll only fix it if it happens to them and of course it never does. Can you please tell us how you fixed it. I am stuck with this car and must safely drive 4 children around. This can be dangerous. Please Help!!
  • lsb0453lsb0453 Posts: 4
    The dash board must be removed from the dash.
    It sounds like you have the typical problem.
    I can fix it. Please contact me. Hopefully it does not start a car fire.
    I will need it for about 4 hours.
  • cententcentent Posts: 6
    What I did was cleaning the battery posts and trimming the gape in the battery post clamp to make sure it is tight to the post. So far, after two days, it is working better. The car repair shop couldn't find it, had to troubleshoot ourself.
  • lsb0453lsb0453 Posts: 4
    It is none of that, good to have done but not the answer.
    When the dash board is removed, there is a printed circuit board attached to it.
    It has a manufacturing defect causing all of the T&C's to have this problem. I can repair that. I live in Il.
    I have heard stories of a NEW PCboard from the dealer $800.00 plus installation, and stories of $400.00 just to repair it.
    Len B
  • cententcentent Posts: 6
    Where are you in Illinois? How much is the board and installation?
  • We had the same problem with ours for a year. You have to get a rebuilt instrument cluster from the dealership. The computer board in the instrument cluster is part of the security system and has a bad part in it. This van has worked perfectly for years after this.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,092
    Please note that soliciting in the Edmunds Forums is strictly prohibited. We also ask that you do not post email addresses or other contact info as this is a risk to your personal safety and is also a violation of the Membership Agreement.

    If you have any questions or concerns, please contact me. You may view my address by clicking on my screen name.

    Thank you for your future cooperation.

    KarenS Community Manager
  • linda456linda456 Posts: 5
    I have a 2008 TC Touring and wondered if anyone else has this problem. I have brought this to the attention of the dealer several times and they cannot duplicate the problem. They did give me a new key hoping that was the problem. worked for a while. Now the van is doing it again. It just turns off while your driving which can be very scary. I have to put the van in neutral and restart it and that takes care of it.........until the next time. Now the tailgate won't go down when I hit the key-fob or the button. It goes up...but not down. I had a 2001 TC and it was a great van. I am sorry I bought this one. It will be my last!!
Sign In or Register to comment.