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Ford F-Series Powerstroke Diesel Problems

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Comments

  • Yea sorry it took me so long to reply i have been moving into new home i bought i replaced the glow plug relay and the heater coil under the filter was shorted out that was the main reason call C & S motors 810-234-5686 its 25.00 for heater element. mine running pretty good i think my beltts going now tho?
  • Hello
    Love it since purchased new my 2004 f 250 6.ol diesel, now has 137,000 nearly trouble free(minor issue's only)#34 tow haul short cicuit near shift lever on the column blowing fuses, alternator quit,water in fuel,thats it !

    Help with this new problem Please
    Last year once or twice, and now again this year but more frequently i experience when taking off from a stop a lack of power and lots of smoke ,white with some blue then black just before it takes off, smoke then clears and runs as if nothing happened, no codes or lites ever indicate an issue. If i let off the throttle when i notice the lag it will go back to idle and idle fine, if i run it hard for a half day or so, seems to clear up for a day or so then returns maybe a week later from what i have read on the web sticking turbo Vanes, sticking egr Advice appreciated Thanks Still very proud owner 04 F250 dave s

    Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/tags/car/Powerstroke?r=ppc|ga|1|Cars+%2D+2|Powerstroke- &JPKW=7.3%20power%20stroke&JPDC=C&JPST=74.125.113.132&JPAD=3113804523&JPAF=txt&J- PCD=20091125&JPRC=1&JPOP=Omar_TaggedPages_Tagged&gclid=CNjribrvxJ4CFYdd5QodKRWqo- w#ixzz0Z1iCk8Aw
  • Hello Love it since purchased new my 2004 f 250 6.ol diesel, now has 137,000 nearly trouble free(minor issue's only)
    #34 tow haul short cicuit blowing fuses, alternator quit,water in fuel,thats it

    ! Last year once or twice, and now again this year but more frequently i experience when taking off from a stop a lack of power and lots of smoke ,white with some blue then black just before it takes off, smoke then clears and runs as if nothing happened, no codes or lites ever indicate an issue. If i let off the throttle when i notice the lag it will go back to idle and idle fine, if i run it hard for a half day or so, seems to clear up for a day or so then returns maybe a week later from what i have read on the web sticking turbo Vanes, sticking egr Advice appreciated Thanks Still very proud owner 04 F250 dave s
  • hello i was just wondering if you or anyone has filed a lawsuit on your problem?
    I have a 2004 f250 6.0L and i got a blown head gasket at 79k just after warranty.
    I would like to join the law suit of there is one and not to late. pleas contact me thanks!!!!
  • Yes there is if you email me i will forward it to you [email protected]
  • First of all I will say thanks to anyone willing to read this and help me with my problem. I've got a 1994 Powerstroke with 214k on it. Truck has been running fine till last night when the temperature got down to around 2 degrees farenheit. I neglected to plug it in but after a couple tries it started and ran. After about 2 to 3 minutes run time, it died. Upon restart it ran about 30 seconds, check engine light came on and it began running rough and died. This same thing happened a couple times more. So I plugged it in and figured the fuel was gelling and left it alone for the night. Today I pushed it into the garage where the temperature was 50 degrees or so and kicked on the heater. Changed the fuel filter and it started and idled just fine for about 15 minutes. Shut it off and changed the oil. This evening I started it and ran it for 15 minutes, no problem. Take of down the road, same thing again. Chech engine light on, runs like crap. Back tank almost empty. Filled half way full with fresh fuel and added fuel suplement to prevent gelling. Front tank has summer blend fuel and is about half full. So I topped it off with fresh fuel and add fuel supplemment. Take off down the road, runs fine for a couple miles, check engine light comes on, runs like crap for a few miles. Check engine light goes off, runs like a top. Few more miles, check engine light on, runs like crap. Then check engine light goes off and it runs like a top, and we repeat this for about 12 miles until I get back home and I shut it if while running like crap. Can this still be a fuel gelling problem even tough the weather today and tonight is warmer? Or am I looking at something more? Also, the lift pump that sits in the engine valley has been leaking slightly for several months. But only slightly. PLEASE HELP.
  • my 95 f350 diesel is blowing 30amp fuse "glow plug controller/fuel heater " tried to crank for a second then shut down. now at ignion on instantly blows fuse, no "wait to start light". thanks in advance for any help or ideas!!
  • i had the same pproblem, it is not oil, it is fuel leak from the water separater/ fuel filter housing, you can buy a new "switch" from the ford house and fix it youself
  • I have read through almost every post here and found similiar problems that I am experiencing but, none exactly the same. So here goes mine. Any help, thank you in advance. I have had the truck for 11 months. When I first got it, Once in a great while, when it was damp out, it would start and run fine for about 10-15 seconds then it would run like it was missing on a few cylinders. Let it warm up and shut it off, restart it and it would run fine. Might do it the next morning or maybe not again for 2 months. Now, it does it everytime I start it when it is cold (not at operating temperature).Same thing,it warms up and then clears itself up without shutting it down. The other night I started it and headed home from the job. Turned on the head lights and the radio kept scanning through the channels. Headlights off, doesn't do it. Now 2 days later that symptom has disappeared. Yesterday, the truck ran rough when I started it, then cleared up. I let it warm up for 15-20 min., headed for work. Got approx. 15 miles from the house on the interstate. I started to pass another vehicle and it started running rough, like I dropped cylinders. Then it cleared itself up and ran the rest of the trip (approx 50 miles) with no more trouble. Got to the job, there all day. Started it once during the day. Again it ran rough then cleared itself up. At the end of the day, it started up and never missed a beat. Ran normal. Got about 10 miles from the job on the same interstate, started running rough, cleared itself up and ran fine all the way home again. I have changed the fuel filter and air filter. I started thinking that maybe the batteries or the glow plugs or the glow plug relay was getting tired and not heating the glow plugs up enough because it was only happening when it was cold. But, the engine never fails to turn over no matter how cold it gets outside. It never fails to start no matter how cold it gets. Plugged in block heater or not, it always turns over and fires up with no extended cranking times. It just runs rough after starting fine and running for 10 seconds or 2 minutes. And now it is starting to do the same thing even a full operating temperature. Might do it it might not. It never stalls except in the morning on cold start if ,when I start it, it runs so rough it will stall itself out. But, hit the key and up and running again. One thing I did notice is that when I plug in the block heater, it doesn't do it for as long or as serverly. Also, when it is running rough, it will take throttle, but obviously, not much power until it clears itself up. If there is any questions that anyone needs answered to help figure this out, ask away. I am stumped. Again, thanks in advance for any help.
  • first of all it,s stock, no modifications have been added,right,because this will void the warrantee, secondly, ford doesn,t really garrantee anything. you don,t stand a chance.does, found on road dead mean anything to you,ford is talking about the ford owners not there ford junk.. they know that they are junk.now they just want us ford owners all dead.......???? i,m really sorry that you bought a ford 6liter sir.
  • I have an 05 Excursion 6.0 same problem took forever to crank, acted like it wanted to but sometimes it was 20 seconds before it would. I FINALLY after no help from my local ford dealer took it to a shop that found my o-rings on my injectors leaking due to corosion etc...., replaced them all no more crank problems!
  • Mine is a 05 excursion 6.0 same thing for me with the black smoke rough running, would clear up then do it again same day or sometimes not for a few, mine was my egr and the carbon buildup in the manifold.
  • fyi; anyone having problems w/ blown 30amp"glow plug/fuel heater"fuse. this was my fix;heater was shorted!part cost me 72 bucks, pull fuel filter,turn plastic nut clockwise!!!!this nut is left hand threads!!!!!!(lesson hard learned)pull wire from connector and replace heater plate. good luck if this fixes your problem,my truck is a 95/w 170000miles.
  • catalytic converter is my first guess
  • i had the same problem i hope i can help were ur fuel fillter is ther is on the driver side there is 2 wires that go to the fuel bowl only unplug them put a new fuse in and see if ur glow plug light comes on if so mabe we got it.if every thing works those 2 wires go to ur bowl heater inside ur fuel bowl about80bucksi .i live in a warmer climat so the ford dealer told me to just tape the wires up and forget them . if that dont work try the ingector plug in by the turbo they also sh0rt out.good luck
  • My problem just started when I replaced the GPR. After restarting the truck I went in the house for supper. When I went back out it wouldn't start and the injector
    driver relay is clicking on and off. The truck cranks fine. I cleaned the battery cables and all the grounds I could find under the hood. I think it must be a current issue. I load tested both batteries good, Any help ?
  • ANYONE??
  • Hi, Sorry no response to your milky water problem. Obviously something with oil is getting into the coolant system. Unfortunately, there are lots of things that can cause this--and the poor design of these 6.0 liter engines creates lots of challenges. I have a 2004 6.0 liter and like most (if not all) other 6.0 owners have had the head gaskets replaced, with newly designed bolts/head gaskets and have also had the EGR cooler replaced.
    Apparently both of these (poor designed head bolt situation) and EGR coolers are prime culprits. The only thing that I know that can help you pinpoint the problem is finding a good diesel mechanic who will not just swap out parts. Unfortunately, these "good" diesel mechanics are often missing in action from Ford dealerships. I know this is not much help but if you have the original head gaskets I think you might be in trouble there. Good luck. gerald
  • thanks for responding.I am dreading the outcome of this situation and now knowing the problems these mototrs have makes me wish I had not made this purchase....
  • nrhofnrhof Posts: 1
    Scott, wondering if you solved your issue.
    Have a 99/225k with the same/similar problem. Runs bad intermittently – typically shutting down and restarting would clear (temporarily), check engine light on/off. Problem began after replacing cam sensor (recall) but may also have bad fuel (drained fuel filter (twice) added 911) – had in shop, threw two codes (sorry do not have them avail) they could not find an issue – and sent us down the road. Now will not start in the cold – smokes/smells (passenger side) when attempting startup. Truck is dead and awaiting tow truck – plan to bring indoors/warm it up and try again.
    Would appreciate thoughts/ideas – traveling and stuck in a small town…..
    Thank you!
  • I have a 04 F-350 with that awesome 6.0 monster. Had the same problems back in October of this year. Blowing white smoke, in fact now that I think about it I could actually smell coolant burning after getting off the freeway on my way to work prior to the white smoke issue. Although faint, I didn't think much of it at the time until the Ford dealer told me what it was going to cost to fix 2 blown head gaskets. I'm doing the job myself and have done much research into discovering the best way to put this back together and make it a runner once and for all. Here's what I've found.

    1.) I agree with gerald, "good" diesel technicians are hard if not impossible to find.

    2.) Make sure you know that it's the head gaskets that failed. Preform or have a compression test done on both the cooling system and the cylinders. It could just be the EGR cooler.

    3.) Get parts that are actually going to fix the problem. An upgraded EGR cooler from bulletproofdiesel.com or an EGR delete kit from rivercitydiesel.com. Pay the money and get the ARP head studs. I know that 500 bucks for head studs may cause you to fudge your Jockey's but you don't want to have this happen again.

    4.) Make sure they replace all of the o-rings on all of the diesel injectors (commonly called a D-ring kit)

    5.) Replace that crappy stock HPOP oil screen with a stainless steel one.

    I'll leave it at that for now. I'm also interested in getting a class action suit going. We've all spent way too much on these machines and received nothing but headache and heartbreak not to mention lost wages for some. If you are interested I would be more than happy to share/help with anyone trying do it themselves.

    Scott
  • About 2 months ago I became the "proud" owner of a recently repaired truck. The previous owner said it was exhausting white smoke and put it in the shop. After a new injector pump, reman. oil pump {the one that builds the oil press. to fire the injectors} and a new EGR {?} assembly the bill was added and the guy couldn't pay it. I negotiated and bought the truck and am trying to get used to it as I drove a '95 Ranger since new {14 years!}. The diesel was only getting about 11 mpg in town and 16.4 on the road {speeds around 60} so I had a "trial" Bully Dog put on it {this was the "3-day trial" version} to see if that would help not only performance but mileage. The truck ran considerably better but only got about 1/2 mpg better on the road trip. The first day after the "trial" program was "flashed", the truck was noticeably harder to start both cold and hot -- had to crank it over for quite some time for approx. the next 7 or 8 starts. THEN it wouldn't start at all after it warmed up! Towed it home {265 miles!} and have replaced both fuel filters, the 20a fuse {Fuel Pump Relay} and spent 2 days trying to get it to run once warm. The only way to get it started is to pour some gas on the K&N filter and turn it over -- after several revolutions, it will start and runs fine. The Ford dealership said it had "no oil pressure" and therefore would not start. I now have it back in the shop that did the injector pump etc. and they are pressure testing for failed injector "O" rings etc. I am not in a position to spend much more money on this truck and am in hopes it could be something much simpler than taking off valve covers and buying hundreds of dollars worth of parts and paying a fortune in shop time -- what's the chances of that?!
    A Bully Dog tech rep. said to have the dealership "flash" the computer to set all updated codes but the dealership said they couldn't do that as it showed too many codes -- why couldn't they just remove them, set the new codes in the computer and try that? The tech rep said this should correct the warm starting problem -- no such luck.
    Any help would be appreciated.
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Posts: 161
    You need to go back and and tell them that they rebuilt the Oil Pump for free since it was the O-rings that are out in the first place and with them being out it wouldn't show Pressure. They messed up and want you to pay for it. The O-Rings are more important than anything else on these trucks. Now without looking at and going by what you have said though it's been an O-Ring problem for the get go.

    As far as you and everyone else I have said it before and will say it again. If any shop says they know what the problem is but it doesn't fix it afterwards they just bought it and as long as you get it in writing any court will not make you pay for it. Thats the main reason for getting stuff in writing so it's always on them. If you do pay for it so you can take it to another shop and someone actually makes it run right not only will most Courts make the first place refund your money they will also make the pay for the other place that did the work.

    The Courts will stand behind every shop that is owed money but when a shop screws over a customer and are much harder on them then you wold believe. SO always make sure you have everything IN WRITING.
  • I have been told that you can do a pressure test and find out which side has the failed ring/rings and replace all of them on that side -- is this an acceptable procedure or should both sides be done at the same time?
  • Today we {the shop doing the work} found that someone had been into the right valve cover at some point and neglected to install "the hardest to get to" bolt that holds the oil supply tube/body to the head! {this is the one that lays horizontaly inside the valve cover and supplies the oil pressure to the injectors to open them for firing}. That lazy [non-permissible content removed] caused one of the seals to leak {DUH!} and has now caused me to have to spend a bunch of $$$!!! When I left the shop, the mech. was in the process of removing the left valve cover to check injector O rings. We have a full set of O rings on their way along with two new oil supply tubes {these are the verticle ones that supply the oil from the crankcase} as you can't purchase new O rings and seals seperately {you can only buy the whole tube with rings and seals -- what a bunch of crap!}. In "testing" they had the computer/tester plugged in and the cranking oil pressure was about 275 psi but would gradually increase with continued cranking to about 400 psi at which time the motor would start.
    They feel they are confident they have found the problem with the seals and the new ones should put me back on the road -- I hope it does and wish I could find the last shop that worked on this motor.
    More later as I learn more.
  • I was wondering if you have solved the no start problem? It sounds like you have a glow plug or glow plug controller problem at 225k if you have not replaced your glow plugs thats a definite problem. look at the glow plug relay on top of the right side valve cover see if one of the two large diameter posts is turning black thats a good sign that the controller is bad. If you have a volt meter you could test it easly.Im sorry I just noticed that your post is a week old I am new to the site today I hope by now you have solved your problem.
  • I used to work for Ford and if I were you I would call customer service and explain to them the problem In todays market they dont want bad customer relations.Also explain to the dealer that the aftermarket exhaust is also designed to lower your EGT if you dont have any other mods you should do ok.Good luck.
  • Did you ever get a reply on this because I am having the same problem on my 2000 F250??
    thanks
  • I want to buy a bed lift kit to basicly turn my 8 ft bed into a dumper. the hydrolic is rated 2 ton but how much gravel can I put in the bed. I would like to fit 1 1/2 - 2 yrd will this destroy my truck? If this works I will be saving a lot of money on buying one of those dump trailers for $3,500 what should i do?

    heres the link to that hydrolic

    http://www.northernhydraulics.net/dump_bed_kits.html?gclid=CI_x_5zokJ8CFY915Qodw- - Up7lA
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