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Ford F-Series Powerstroke Diesel Problems



  • If your 7.3 just dies as your driving.most of the time its the cam sensor. the blue cam sensor is the best, but it could be a lot of other things too,like IDM,O-ring,ipr or just a fuse,.relay.get a scanner and get to the problem and not throw parts at her.
  • camehl3camehl3 Posts: 1
    I am having a similar problem. Where is the electrical connector located?
  • gerlad1gerlad1 Posts: 22
    Go back and read my Sept. 9, 2009 post and it has all the details that I know regarding the fix of my stalling out problem of my 6.0 liter engine. This was after several trips to different Ford dealerships. I would suspect that with the part # that is listed in my post,,your Ford dealer could tell you (print out a diagram) of where the connector is located. I thought this was a real "safety issue" with the truck,, but apparently Ford didn't care if the truck went to idle in heavy freeway traffic or in the middle of an intersections. Last Ford diesel for me. As I understood it at the time, apparently with this bad electrical connector, there would either be an indicated low high pressure oil signal,, or actually low oil pressure to the injectors and the computer would cut the flow to make the engine idle. No response whatsoever to accelerator pedal. Ford had previously changed out wired accelerator linkage--but this did not solve the problem. Have never had the problem since the connector was changed out.
  • dek555dek555 Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 1992 Ford F-250 custom . I think I got a good deal on it but I have never owned a diesel before and dont know the first thing about it except the basic maintenance (fuel filter , air cleaner , lube points , etc.) . When I drove the truck it run fine but now 3 days later when i come to a red light or stop sign the Idle drops way down when i stop and more than a few times it has stalled . It started up fine but I dont want to have to drive with 2 feet for the rest of the time I own the truck . Can anyone give me a clue as to where to start ?????
  • 1997 7.3 won't startMy 1997 7.3 has been running great until yesterday when it stopped while idling. It restarted without a problem until I got about 100 yards from my home. It stopped and I haven't been able to start it since. My first thought was the cam sensor since I had this problem in the past. I replaced the cam sensor myself today through the recall, thinking this would fix the problem. It still won't start. A quick check of the fuel pump by opening the filter drain and cranking the engine gave me a deluge of fuel, so I think the fuel pump might be ok. the glow plug solenoid is clicking when the key is turned which indicates to me it may be working. I would think this is not the problem, since I tried to start it yesterday when the engine was still at operating temperature. I checked all of the fuses and didn't find any problems there. Any ideas on how to test the high pressure oil pump, short of loosening the fittings? Can anyone tell me if has a decent manual? My Haynes Diesel manual does not help with this problem. If I can rent or borrow a code reader, I may be able to use it to resolve the problem. Does anyone have any experience with this problem, who may be able to give me some ideas what to look for? The truck has 213000 miles on it and up to now has been running great.
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Posts: 161
    You check the Voltage coming from the ICP Sensor to see if 1 plus Volt is going back to the Computer, if there is that tells you that you have the 500 psi on the oil system, if you dont get the 1 plus Volt then you might have blown an O-Ring on the Injectors or the Oil Pump it self. To see which Bank is doing okay then you have to cap off the line n plug the head in order to check for an O-Ring n that will also give you a Pressure Reading for the Pump.

    How long ago did you change your oil and is the oil on the dipstick ? The higher the mileage you get on these you really need to change it every 2500 to 3000 miles and make sure you don't have leaks.
  • Thanks for the tip. I'll check it out. I change the oil about every 3000 miles.
  • mmbastmmbast Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    2004 F250 SD 6.0 DSL- 101,000 Miles
    Will have up ticks in power while driving, will drop to low power mode when making a turn or stopping and accelorator will quit. Only happens when I am running the vehicle for the first time that day. After that, drives perfect at all other times.

    Have had it in two dealerships. Both stated code comes back "low fuel pressure". First dealership changed fuel filters and this worked for awhile. Second dealer "thinks" it needs a new IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator).

    Other forums mention FICM, ICP...........................

    Drove it last night 10 miles to town.....surged up and down the entire ride and was difficult to start after one stop at a store. Had dinner, drove it 10 miles home and it was perfect....
  • carlyncarlyn Posts: 1
    We are currently on what was called "vacation." My husband bought his 2010 F250 (6L) in October. It has less than 20,000 miles on it. 3 days before we were supposed to pack up to go home, my husband ran into a real problem. We are staying in a campground (towed our 5th wheeler here) where there is bad internet service. He drove his truck up to the front office so he could pick up WIFI easier to do work. He sat in his truck with the AC on and did his work. Out of no where, the truck simply turned off with no warning messages.

    It was in park when this happened. He tried to immediately re-start, but it was completely dead. Called FORD road side assistance and they sent a tow truck. While waiting for the truck, he again tried repeatedly to start the truck, to no avail.

    Murphy's law, as soon as the tow truck got there, the truck magically started. He shut it off and restarted several times in front of the driver before deciding to let the driver go with our apologies.

    The next day while sitting at a stop light, the truck AGAIN just simply turned off. Would not turn back on. He had to push the truck out of the intersection. The same tow truck guy came and took our truck 45 miles to the closest FORD dealership.

    I'm posting this on a Thursday, and they have had the truck since last Friday. They called us on Friday to say there was nothing wrong with the truck. We told them there certainly was something wrong. They said they ran a diagnostic test and there was an error on the first message, but it disappeared when they ran it again. That there was nothing they could find wrong on the truck.

    Because we are towing with our family, safetly is a concern. We live 4.5 hours from here. My husband inquired if the truck suddenly turned itself off while we were going down the highway, would that effect the breaks. They said yes.

    He said go with what the first error message said and fix it. Safety first.

    They said they'd order the part.

    Of course, the campground needed their site back so we had to hire a tow vehicle to move our 5th wheel to another site in the mean time. We settled into the new spot hoping that we'd be hearing from FORD on Monday that everything was fixed.

    They called on Monday and said they replaced the part that came up as an error, but when they took the steering wheel off, they found another broken part, that they'd have to order. Long story longer, next day the incorrect part came in so that put fixing off by yet another day.

    They finally called yesterday afternoon (Wednesday) to say it was fixed and they were driving it back to us as we speak. 15 minutes later they called to say it turned off again on their driver in route to us and was being towed back to the dealership.

    After a lot of venting (thank you) has anyone out there had this sort of trouble with their F250 diesels? They can't seem to figure it out and we are going broke sitting here waiting.

    Many thanks for your time! cdh
  • This was told to me by a ford diesel mechanic probably a year or so ago. One of the things ford found out that was causing engine failure was carbon build up in the engines caused by long periods of idling such as electric utility trucks were the workers would be working on the side of the road all day and the engines would be left idling. So now the computer system in these trucks will shut the engines down after about 30 to 45 minutes of idling and will not let the truck re start for either one or two hours after shutting down. I don't remember whether it was one or two he said. He told me if I found myself in a long traffic jam after about 15 0r 20 minutes to try to shut down the engine to reset the timer so it wouldn't die in the middle of traffic and not re start. This would explain at the campground were the engine shut down and would not re start until the tow truck arrived and all at once every thing was fine. How ever this does not explain driving down the road and the engine just cutting off. Try checking your coolant levels . It has been very hot lately and maybe the high temps are triggering the sensors to shut down the truck. But this is just me taking a wild guess. Good luck with problem.
  • rodesignerrodesigner Posts: 20
    After I had the cam sensor replaced on recall, I still had the problem with the truck (2000 F250 7.3L)it started shutting down more frequently on the road as well as idling, the Dealership couldn't figure it out. They finally did figure it out though after having it a couple weeks (close to my home). It was the computer module. Was spendy to replace, but no more stalling. By the way, I sent Ford an email about a problem I was having with my truck. Don't waste your time!!! They first send you a "canned" response that in no way applies to your problem. Then when I querried them again they sent a response indicating that absolutely didn't read my post. Their basic canned response is to send you to a dealership. They absolutely do not suggest any solutions from the experts back at the factory.
  • is this a IDI diesel? fuel pump is on the way out,check the psi on the injector pump
  • gwc5gwc5 Posts: 1
    I have a similiar situation --have you gotten your truck fixed and if so what fixed it--thanks gwc5
  • ljollyljolly Posts: 3
    Randomly nothing but accessories come on when you turn the key on. Batteries are. Now new. All cables and relays have been checked. The dealer replaced the starter be he couldn't find anything else! Sometimes taking off the battery cables and then butting them back on will make it start. It acts like it doesn't know it is in park! We know there is a switch or sensor to tell the engine but where is it? Could it be dirty? Now when. The engine is running, in park the seat belt alarm is going off when no one is there! Related! Please help. This is a problem when traveling and towing
  • In the afternoon, while I'm driving down the road the engine shuts off. The engine starts up when I turn the key so I know it's not a fuel problem. Any suggestions?
  • This is either a computer problem or the nuetral safety switch on the transmission is bad.
  • It sounds like you have a cracked fuel pick up tube in the fuel tank?put a scanner on her as you drive and turn. freeze frame the problem and check for codes and fuel pressure.
  • I dont't know what year your truck is,but if its a 7.3 ? I would say a bad CAM Sensor.
    but year and make would help?
  • baddog1baddog1 Posts: 1
    when i start my truck in the morning after sitting all night . it starts fine but if i start accelarateing to hard its is real rough like it has a miss but once it warms up it gose away i have 70,000 on the truck . what do ya,ll think is the cause no light comes on directing me to say something is not right.
  • My 1999 F-250 diesel has been cutting off on me while running mostly when accelerating. Today it cut off on me and now it wont start. when i wait for the wait to start light to go off and crank it it just sounds like it wont turn over. Before it would cut off and then once i turned it off and re-started it it was fine. Im thinking maybe a cam sensor??? Help I have no idea
  • I have the same issue with my 2000 F250 7.3L diesel and this is all happening even though I have the dealer recall cam position sensor replaced as well as a new computer. if you do find the answer please let me know. My truck has been in the shop this time for 1 1/2 weeks so far.
  • '99 F250 feels like its being held back in 1st & 2nd, and doesn't really move outta its own way on the highway. Used to have the problem with starting it up and 30 seconds later cutting off.... cam sensor fixed that. new fuel pump. I dont know what to think, its my pop's truck im tryin to help him, I run 350 chevys...... maybe turbo problem? any insight would be greatly appriciated.
  • How long ago was the fuel filter (miles) changed?
  • I am original owner of a F250, 6.0, 126K miles and well maintained. I have had a rash of problems in the last weeks including 2 injectors, water and oil pump, high pressure pump, crank shaft sensor, high pressure valve. I just got it back and as I was pulling a trailer it died again. I took it back to the shop and it's scanned code was a crank shaft sensor. It was replaced and when I went to pick it up I didn't make it down the road a 1/2 mile and it died again. The scan code now reads #3 and #5 injector yet the pressure reading is good on each. When the other injectors went out I could still drive the truck. I'm wondering if this may be a computer issue giving false signals. This has become a money for me and unreliable. If anyone has any ideas I'm open as it is yet another day I'm without my truck. Thanks
  • We changed the filter almost right when the problems started,
    Then not even a week after that we changed out the pump which was still working
    Next it was the cam sensor because we never took it in for the recall.....
    Its a true mule and I don't wanna trade in for a cummins....
  • Here is the latest, (still don't have a solution yet), but after the engine wanting to stall several times while driving and shutting down when I was stopped and the engine was idling, I took it in to the dealership. Now in the past like I said before the cam pos indicator recall was done as well as changing out the computer. The dealer still has it (about 2 weeks) which I don't have a real problem with it, I just want it fixed so I work around the inconvenience anyway the service manager called and said that they managed to get it to stall with the test equip hooked up and supposedly it indicates a bad plug under some sort of cover, valve or something, and I assume he called me because it wasn't a simple procedure to remove the cover ($). I haven't heard from him since.
  • ceh54ceh54 Posts: 2
    103000 miles/3000 miles out of warranty! I have started having problems with episodes of truck not starting after getting warm,let it set for a while and it will start (just about the time the tow truck arrives). I have had it in the Dealers shop 2 times now. The first time they replaced a ??? SGR valve,happened again they kept it for 2 days-----checked every thing out,all was ok. I picked up the truck today and wonder when it is going to happen again> Does any one have any ideas or know of a good non dealership diesel mechanic in the Northwest Houston area?. Thanks
  • ceh54ceh54 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info.
    I will keep your post and may give you a call.
  • My o4 diesel started shaking really bad. It sounds like an old diesel(you know the chugga chugga sound). You can really feel it when you are going about 50 and let off the gas. When it down shifts it feels like its going to rattle apart. Also when it is idling. I've heard about the egr valve going bad so I took it off and cleaned it up and put it back on. This helped with power but didnt solve the shaking and running ruff. Any suggestions?
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