PT Cruiser Brake Problems & Questions
Having an issue with the brakes on your Cruiser? This is the place to give and get advice!
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Comments
In fact, only problem we have had was a power steering problem which was taken care of by Chrysler.
Ours is the base model with manual transmission.
We average just a little over 30 mpg (mostly highway).
Now we are having battery cable problems. When will it end.
Second, you've had your "emergency brakes" changed 4 times?It's impossible that they could be worn even once within the period of front pad wear. The emergency brakes are the rear brakes, and almost all braking systems are 65/35 systems, meaning that the braking power is 65% front-35% rear. Braking systems are made this way because momentum and steering are foreward, otherwise cars could spin out upon braking, even worse in rain or snow....Do you drive with the emergency brake on? That's the only reason to replace them early or have them adjusted even once within the front pad life.
So I took it to the dealer, amongst other problems I am having, and they checked them out. Nothing was wrong they said. Just dirt most likely the cause. 2 days later, they're sqeeking again.....
I think I'm going to have to trade this car in, in a few months for something else. I do love the car as far as looks and the interior go, but I can't afford to have a car with problems brand new.
Had the dealership checked the brake calipers. Any grinding sound or feel could mean the ABS is engaging for some reason? It is rare for that to happen but it is electronically controlled so it could also be electrical or an on board computer issue? Just some suggestions or ideas to throw out there.
Another suggestion maybe to upgrade in the brakes. Meaning, purchase a higher quality rotor and calipers with excellent quality pads. I know The Tire Rack sells Brembo rotors and calipers, you may want to check and see if they have a set that fits your PT Cruiser. You will pay more than you would at Autozone or a Advanced Auto, but it still should be cheaper or about the same if you bought Factory stuff, but it would definitely be of a much higher quality. Good luck on your PT.
So far, I've had a bad caliper.. which required new calipers and new pads...
Also, for the squeaking... for most of the car's life, the rear brakes had a HORRIBLE squeal.. it was a wretched sound. Chrysler mechanics are morons. They consistantly wanted to clean and adjust.. clean and adjust and it never solved the problem. Finally, a random mechanic suggested having the shoes resurfaced. So, instead, I had them replace them. So, the squealing is now gone, but they still squeak when they're cold.
I've spent close to 1500 bucks on brakes since we got the car in 2003. And I'm so sure that chrysler was dodging the real problem when it was under warranty.
Now, there's a strange grinding sound on the front brakes... I just had, a couple of months ago, new calipers... new pads.. and a resurface, and now they're grinding...
It never ends :mad:
Can anyone tell me why does my dash "break light" turns on, and a single ding sound can be hear when I accelerate.
Most common when I leave a dead stop traffic light... or when the car down shifts on a hill climb.
thank you.
Kitty.
thought you might like to know.
Kitty.
Issue 2-I was told I needed a new thermostat, radiator hose and flush. Okay, the hose and flush I can understand. They wanted to charge me almost $600 dollars for this because they said it is hard to get to the thermostat. Is this true???
All in all I was told I had $3000 worth of repairs I should get done. I had no troubles with this car until now. For the money I may as well trade it in.
Which engine? On my wife's 03 turbo the thermostat isn't too difficult to get to. It's near the left front, as you're standing in front looking in the engine bay. Follow the big upper radiator hose from the radiator and it'll take you right to it.
It looks like on my wife's car I might have to remove the intake manifold but that's no big deal - I did that when I replaced the spark plugs. You just should make sure you get the torque right when you tighten it back down. A PT Cruiser repair CD on eBay or Haynes service manual is a lot cheaper than the $600 they want to charge you.
Does the noise it makes when turning sound more like a moaning? That is probably the power steering pump if so. Check the fluid level and PS belt tension and condition. Okay, now I remember you asked about the PS about a week ago. Did you look into that mesh screen in the PS reservoir possibly being clogged?
Why would the brake fluid be so dirty if a shop supposedly flushed the system and replaced with clean fluid 4 months ago? Why do they think the caliper is sticking? Is that wheel hard to turn by hand when off the ground or is there uneven wear on the pads?
Also my oil light keeps coming on and binging. The dealer says there is nothing wrong and not to worry right now. Just the sensor is damp. The binging is driving me crazy. Any ideas on either of these problems?
1. the rear brake plates where the handbrake cable is attached has a small rounded dome which was worn out and had to be welded to form the rounded shape again, you can clearly see it if you remove the brake shoes there will be a worn out hole on the plate, some dont do good electric welding and it can wear out again in 12months or so, so make sure you see the welding before its pt back, it should be a small dome like shape not just a bit of spot welding
2. when the brake shoes were replaced the handbrake lever will become loose, and if ignored the lever will pull up too much and parking brake will be soft or not work at all
3. it is essential to open the 4 screws around the long console of the handbrake lever to reveal the handbrake mechanism, there are two bolts holding the lever down, easy to remove and replace if you wish, but you can detach the two rear cables and pull the cable fixed to lever as mch as possible and then insert a lock pin or thin nail to hold the spring, and then attach the two cables back and remove the pin, this will retension the spring in the lever, make sure the handbrake is bolted down when you do this, check handbrake light before returning the console back, there is cigarrete lighter cable attached to the console so just leave console on the side wheile working.
do this before buying new handbrake cables or handbrake lever
well had same problem with my pt cruiser 2001, firstly there is no need to plug in computer under the dash for pulling abs error codes,
because the problem can be the cracked abs ring on the drive shaft/cv joint,
turn your steering all the way to left and ask your colleague to see if behind the tyre the abs ring is broken or cracked,
it is circular like a bracelete with grooves, then turn the steering to the right and repeat the inpesction,
if the abs ring is cracked then look on ebay or web for pt cruiser abs ring or kia abs ring, should cost about £5-£10 each
and a garage could heat it up with gas and hammer it into the drive shaft/cv joint for you for about £20-£30,
takes about 30min to 45mins, make sure the garage dont heat the cv booth kit rubber next to the abs ring when heating it up.
i heard you can only buy abs ring for front wheels and its not available separately for rear wheels,
so for rear you may need to buy the whole part it comes on
the front abs rings are easily visible when you turn the wheel to one side, the rear ones may not be visible as i have not seen them
so if the abs ring are good then it wil probably be one of the wheel sensors, in this case you you may look for a garage who will hook up
the computer and pull the code for you, be carefull if the say there are no abs error codes it means the sensors are ok and most of it
there is no need to buy abs sensor for any wheel when there are no error codes
on pt cruiser you can pull engine error codes yourself without a computer, just do the key dance on the ignition,
turn key until dash lights come on then switch off and then again turn key until dash lights come on then swithch off,
then turn key for third time again until dash lights come on , you will see engine error codes displayed then says done,
if there are no error codes it will say done, howevere these are engine error codes only not abs error codes,
abs error codes are pulled using abs diagnostic tool
incase its a faulty wheel sensor, will cost £45 at dealer or £20 from scrap, then a garage can removed the tyre and plug out the old sensor cable
and replace it with a new one, one end is easy to plug in but the other end has to be pushed in at an angle,
its about 30min job and garage can charge £20 or so
my pt cruiser is back on the road with just one abs ring replaced and it all cost me £30 alltogether
Everything electrical seems to be working fine, and I found no evidence of any fluids having been ejected on any part of the engine or compartment. But evidently there is something that is not allowing the pistons to release to allow the brake pads to retract off the rotor.
And ideas?
its most likely your caliper is jammed (i mean the piston comes out during braking but not retracting back after braking),
this problem will require either get new caliper or recondition the existing ones, (i bought some from from junkyard or salvage and take them for recon and then get a garage to replace them for me, and next time after 2 years i would take the old ones, which came out from my car, for recon if i have to),
the smoke is probably from leaking brake oil from the brake caliper, or even maybe you had sprayer brake cleaner when fitting or examining brake, yes it does make a bit of smoke but in my case it was only for a day, after i drove the car from the garage and it never happened the next day, it was probably just heat and brake cleaner fluid reacting into smoke.
good luck.
I have a 2002 PT Cruiser. Yesterday both front breaks engaged and would not disengage. By the time it got to the shop the breaks disengaged and can not be duplicated. Now I need new shoes, calipers and rotors. Any idea what happened and what the cause was? This is the second time this happened but the first time was just for a short period.