2011 Buick Regal 2.0L Turbo HELP ME! P340, P341, P1101 codes LIVE DATA INFO posted

garland2019

Okay backstory, a few months back i had just hit 75,000 miles and decided it was a nice day outside and wanted to change my spark plugs (no the car didn't show any signs of needing this done i just did it) After having a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] of a time getting the ignition coil packs off and unclipped i replaced the plugs (didn't gap them or anything just tossed them in. Upon starting the car seemed fine, the next day I'm on my way home from work and car starts running awful, get home turn off car and when i went to leave next time car went into a safe mode type thing where it wouldn't shift up saying shift denied and couldn't go faster than 25mph without getting up in the 6-7000s RPMs. Took to shop, they said bad ignition coil as well as not gapping spark plugs. $340 later I'm leaving the shop get a mile down road and problem comes right back on. Shop says they can fix the rest of ignition coils and whatever for another $475 so i took matters into my own hand. Bought a scan tool, bought all 4 brand new ignition coils as well as new plugs did it all at same time (2 times) same problem. Scan it and find p340/341 code so i replaced cam shaft position sensor which did nothing. More testing more research i find that could be intake/exhaust solenoids could be the culprit. Change both of those, and problem still there. Im to the point where auto zone type shops say something basic about it or say did ya check this out and i go into so much detail of what i did already and they respond with wow i didn't even think of that. Before spending another large sum at a shop I've came here as a final hope of finding my problem.

Symptoms:
-Car feels like there is absolutely no power at any range of rpm or speed.
-I put the gas to the floor and there is nothing there it hesitates and accelerates but at speed of a snail.
-Gas mileage feels to be awful now

OBD scanner LIVE DATE RESULTS: AT IDLE(750-850RPM)
DTC_CNT2: 2
FUELSYS1: CL
FUELSYS2:--
LOAD_PCT: 25-26%
SHRTFT1 %: -5 to +4
LONGFT1 %: +8.6 steady
FRP (kPa): 270-310
MAP (kPa): 32-35.0
SPARKADV (degrees): 8.0-14.0
MAF (g/s): 3.10
TP (%): 20.8
O2B1S1 (V): .015 TO .845
SHRTTFTB1S1 (%): -5 TO +5
O2B1S2 (V): .7
SHRTFTB1S2 (%): 99.2
EVAP (%): 17.6

FREEZE FRAME DATA: P340
FUELSYS1: --
FUELSYS2: --
LOAD %: 70.2
SHRTFT1 %: 0.0
SHRTFT2 %: 5.5
FRP: 441
MAP: 92.0
RPM: 645
SPARKADV °: 5.0
IAT °C: 31
MAF (G/S): 3.57
TP %: 36.1

Any and all help is appreciated let me know if anyone needs more data posted! THANKS in advance!!

imidazol97

There are so many things that could be wrong and guessing at them over the internet is not what I should do.

Because you had a problem getting the coil packs off to get to the plugs, I wonder if some other wiring such as for the fly-by-wire throttle body got damaged. On some GM vehicles, the wiring and connectors for the throttle body control have given problems, partly due to the high heat area they are in. My thinking there is that I've had the panic problems working on my car where something is difficult to figure out how to remove due to the fasteners, and I know how easy it is to hurry and bump or move something else.

I don't know if the 2.0 T engine is as susceptible, but the earlier GM's I've been used to are picky about the spark plug brands. I always have used the exact replacement plug for them because of problems others have had using the popular, highly advertised/pushed brands by the box stores.

The same went for spark plug wires when the high voltage wires were still used.

I hesitate to be forthright, but I feel you'd be better off getting the car to a quality Buick dealership with a service department that has a good reputation. OR a Chevy store because the same engine is used there. Usually there are a couple of technicians who have been around a while and have done troubleshooting on various problems.

I have a concern that you local shop sees you as a checkbook: someone who is trapped by having tried to do work themselves and who doesn't have the tools to diagnose. So they want to hang parts after parts. The one wanting to replace the rest of the coils without giving a valid reason based on diagnosis from testing tools is a prime example.

I would suggest bypassing the rest of the shops and going to a dealer with the testing tools and ability. There may be a quality local mechanic with the testing ability but they're hard to find when in a bind, as you are.

thecardoc3

garland2019 said:

Okay backstory, a few months back i had just hit 75,000 miles and decided it was a nice day outside and wanted to change my spark plugs (no the car didn't show any signs of needing this done i just did it) After having a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] of a time getting the ignition coil packs off and unclipped i replaced the plugs (didn't gap them or anything just tossed them in. Upon starting the car seemed fine, the next day I'm on my way home from work and car starts running awful, get home turn off car and when i went to leave next time car went into a safe mode type thing where it wouldn't shift up saying shift denied and couldn't go faster than 25mph without getting up in the 6-7000s RPMs. Took to shop, they said bad ignition coil as well as not gapping spark plugs. $340 later I'm leaving the shop get a mile down road and problem comes right back on. Shop says they can fix the rest of ignition coils and whatever for another $475 so i took matters into my own hand. Bought a scan tool, bought all 4 brand new ignition coils as well as new plugs did it all at same time (2 times) same problem.

Without seeing this, feeling what it is doing and testing it first hand there are a lot of variables that cannot be accounted for. Some of what you described above such as replacing the plugs and then ending up with a problem strongly suggests that the boots on the coils were hard and probably scratched the first "new" spark plugs that you installed and created carbon tracks. So there is plenty of room for the shop to find a coil issue upon the first testing. The question is what else happened and why. The codes setting P0340 and P0341 are Intake camshaft sensor signal circuit and Intake camshaft position sensor performance. These codes can easily be generated by a wiring issue between the sensor and the PCM, they can also be generated by a camshaft out of time


The P1101 is Intake Airflow System Performance which means the PCM is comparing actual airflow based on throttle position to the calculated airflow as measured by the Mass Airflow sensor and the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor signal. That can even be seen in the P0340 Freeze Frame data below where you have MAF 3.57 g/s, MAP 92 KPA, TP 36%, Load 70.2%, and RPM 645. For the MAP to be 92KPA (100KPA is atmospheric pressure) this engine is struggling to pump air. The MAF signal should be much higher than it is at 3.57g/s and again has me wondering if the chain has jumped time or if possibly the exhaust is restricted. The freeze frame shows short term trim at "0" which leaves me to wonder if this was in open loop when the freeze frame set. You will have to recheck and see if you can add that data pid.

garland2019 said:

Scan it and find p340/341 code so i replaced cam shaft position sensor which did nothing. More testing more research i find that could be intake/exhaust solenoids could be the culprit. Change both of those, and problem still there. Im to the point where auto zone type shops say something basic about it or say did ya check this out and i go into so much detail of what i did already and they respond with wow i didn't even think of that. Before spending another large sum at a shop I've came here as a final hope of finding my problem.

Symptoms:
-Car feels like there is absolutely no power at any range of rpm or speed.
-I put the gas to the floor and there is nothing there it hesitates and accelerates but at speed of a snail.
-Gas mileage feels to be awful now

With the vehicle in limp-in, or reduced power mode it would feel very under powered. That is a scripted failure mode that occurs with the P1101

garland2019 said:

OBD scanner LIVE DATE RESULTS: AT IDLE(750-850RPM)
DTC_CNT2: 2
FUELSYS1: CL
FUELSYS2:--
LOAD_PCT: 25-26%
SHRTFT1 %: -5 to +4
LONGFT1 %: +8.6 steady
FRP (kPa): 270-310
MAP (kPa): 32-35.0
SPARKADV (degrees): 8.0-14.0
MAF (g/s): 3.10
TP (%): 20.8
O2B1S1 (V): .015 TO .845
SHRTTFTB1S1 (%): -5 TO +5
O2B1S2 (V): .7
SHRTFTB1S2 (%): 99.2
EVAP (%): 17.6

Is this all the data your scan tol can pull? If there is more can you watch the camshaft position active counter parameter and see if the PCM is counting pulses? There should be four camshaft pulses of varying on time for two revolutions of the crankshaft. These signals are best looked at with a digital storage oscilloscope which could also allow a capable technician to simultaneously confirm if the camshaft is in time or not.

garland2019 said:

FREEZE FRAME DATA: P340
FUELSYS1: --
FUELSYS2: --
LOAD %: 70.2
SHRTFT1 %: 0.0
SHRTFT2 %: 5.5
FRP: 441
MAP: 92.0
RPM: 645
SPARKADV °: 5.0
IAT °C: 31
MAF (G/S): 3.57
TP %: 36.1

Any and all help is appreciated let me know if anyone needs more data posted! THANKS in advance!!