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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair



  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Your remarks are to the point. OK, forget the MAF sensor...and yes, sniffing IS using a sensor....First generation sportage had losts of case of dirty idle air control valves...and on this, once started, the car would be fine, give or take some problems with idle stabilisation until warmed up.
    Coolant temp sensor has a very large influence on mixture, and if the sensor is "shorted" due to wiring or internal failure, it looks as a warm/hot engine and starting cold will be difficult. IN fact, will it start OK once warmed up? And just being or seeming "warm" within limits will not pop a code....Just disconnecting this sensor, once you reach at it, would read "open", equivalent to cold, and this would force a rich mixture.
    ALso, the fuel pump and ECM normally feed a long pulse at initial startup as a primer....THis new SPorty/Tuckson is unknown to me, but the old model would run the fuel pump only WHILE starting, once it reads either cam or crank sensor pulses, no way to hear the pump at KEY ON like my Pontiac Transport....... findings...
  • buzzard40buzzard40 Posts: 3
    Those are helpful comments and ideas...thanks. Lately, the vehicle has been starting quite well. At first, the problem was limited to cold starts so your ideas about the coolant temp sensor were in exact alignment with my hypothesis. But then, after I took the vehicle to the dealer (at bout 750 miles on the odometer), they couldn't start it hot or cold. Hmmm.

    I stuck my head under the fuel tank and used another sensor (ears) when my wife started the vehicle yesterday. Sure enough, at "key on", I heard the fuel pump run for several seconds. I still don't have a way to confirm pressure at the fuel rail. There are a couple specialty tools in the manual (G03821634 and G03821635) that appear to adapt a standard pressure guage to the fuel rail. I haven't had time to determine what thread size the cap is on the end of the fuel rail. I suspect it isn't a thread pattern I'm likely to have around the's fairly large in diameter.

    We have an old Sportage (4WD 5-speed) in the Philippines (a '98) but it has a 2.0L diesel engine purportedly made by Mazda, so nothing I've learned about that beast that would apply to the 2008. It would be a blast to try to drive it here in the U.S. It has 70 HP which is sufficient for those congested roads but it does struggle to climb hills. However, in 4WD, it will go about anywhere including through deep mud. We bought the '08 because I've been so impressed by the ruggedness of that old diesel Sporty.

    I'll try again to find a way to disconnect the coolant temp sensor and see how the vehicle starts. However, with it starting quite well the past few days, that may not be very informative.

    Thanks again for your guidance.
  • margnmargn Posts: 2
    I had my 2002 serviced and they replaced the fan just prior to it melting as well. They will replace it for you also, since it was on the RECALL list. Check with your local dealer.
  • margnmargn Posts: 2
    My 02 has a bad noise in the morning when I start it up. It is worse after it has rained, for some reason. I have had all the maintenance done and the belts have all been replaced. The dealership cannot figure out what the noice is. Also just within a day or so, the car has started to make a BUMPING noice when I hit a bump in the road. I thought at first the spare tire mount was loose, and took it in to be checked. They found everything is tight and nothing is loose. I was told by a friend, that possible a stablizer bar could be broken. What is that? and approximately what would it cost to fix. My car only has 56K miles on it and is a 1 owner.The dealership told me 3 months ago my car was in perfect shape, including the struts . I am so confused. ANY IDEAS?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    WOUld be fun if you could use the sound feature of a digital camera to record and post the noise....just like this:
    link title
    ...timing belt idler and tensioner bearings have been reported to generate weird noises.....
    ..and exhaust system is a common source of bumping and rattling noises....
  • ramman222ramman222 Posts: 1
    Good Day All:

    I have an '06 with a 2.7 and auto trans. I drive almost 1000 miles a week and have 111,000 miles on the clock. I'll start with the noise as it has me completely baffled.

    It started about a month ago. It only happens in gear with the air on when stopped with it in drive, but not all the time. It almost sounds like a rod knocking but a bit more intermittent and it is on the passenger side. Turn the air off and it stops. The compressor and clutch check out fine. Pop it in neutral and it stops, accelerate and it stops. Could this possibly be the tranny pump? The fluid has been changed at 50 and 100K and was not burned or very discolored either time. The tranny is not slipping and shifts smooth. Of course no mechanic can get it to reproduce the sound when I take it in.

    The starting issue just happened yesterday. When cold it starts with the first turn of the key. After driving and setting for an hour or so it won't start very easy. I have hit the key 4 times before it will start. Once started it runs fine with no hesitation or missing. The check engine light is not on. The fuel pump is not giving the "whine of death" that usually accompanies a bad pump.

    I have had to do nothing to this vehicle other than oil changes and a set of tires. I know I should have at least changed the plugs and wires but there never was a sign of need to. So this is where I started. I pulled the front bank out and the plugs were not really all that bad, but I replaced them and the wires all the same. How in the heck do you get to rear bank? The intake plenum appears to sit on top of the plugs. The mechanic claims his book calls for 1.2 hours to do a plug and wire change. There must be a trick to getting the rear bank plugs out. I don't believe they can R&R the intake and change plugs and wires in 1.2 hours. Of course he won't tell me any secrets. Any ideas?

    This is my second Sportage. I had an '01 that I put 170K on with no mechanical problems and traded it in on this one. I really have no complaints with Sportages. These two issues are annoyances more than problems.

    Any info would helpful.

  • kiabumkiabum Posts: 1
    I have had numerous issues with my 99 kia sportage since 01/09. I have replaced the timing belt, the plugs, the wires, the fuel pump, the clutch master cylinder, the slave cylinder and now the samshaft position sensor, I have had the keyway and the key checked no wear still fine. I have checked also the camshaft pin (rod) which is fine not broke. :cry: I have had the timing checked and rechecked all is correct. The car starts, idles rough can not get above 30mph and I have an engine light ln. I have 2 error codes one is po343 which is the cam shaft position sensor which is brand new yesterday ($100) and the other is the fuel pressure sensor. I am baffles I do not want to replace the fuel pressure sensor for $138 if there is something worse goig on with the cam shaft. ANY IDEAS????? :cry: :cry: :cry:
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    I'd check the actual fuel pressure as the sensor might be good, and the pressure wrong....possibly the regulator is faulty. I designed a fuel pressure gauge using a a/c refill tube....just remove the check valve (a small rubber ball) , the bottle adapter and install a 50-100 psi gaugeThe connector is OK. I used it on my Pontiac Transport..but did not manage to look for access with hte KIA...

  • kinderfokinderfo Posts: 2
    i have replaced alot of parts on the car still something is wrong when you step on the gas it goes to the floor but the car barely moves it takes forever to get to 25mph but after you do you are okay until you have to stop again then it does the same thing until you get up to 25mph again if you have to stop it will bog down like it is going to stall and sometimes it does i dont know what is wrong i spent alot of money on a timing belt and o 2 censers please help i love my kia :confuse:
  • SunnyD65SunnyD65 Posts: 4
    Today I got home and could not roll my rear passenger window up. It will go down but not up. It does not go up with either the passenger button or my master button. Please help if you have any ideas it is supposed to rain soon here.
  • SunnyD65SunnyD65 Posts: 4
    You posted a reply to a power window problem back in April of 2008 you said it was probably the drivers switch and you provided a link to a diagram. I tried to use the link and I think its expired or something. I was just wondering if you possibly remember the link and could provide it to me. Thankyou for your time.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    I see a diagram in that post, not a link.

    If you can't see the diagram try Right > Click > Save and maybe you can open it on your computer. Here's the direct link to try too.
  • wamdapwamdap Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 sportage with power window problem. The rear passenger window wont go up.How do I remove the window switch.I removed the door arm rest pocket to get at the switch,but cant seem to get the switch out.How do I release the switch? Please help. :shades:
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Here is the link again...and it works. Maybe your security settings are set too high..
    power windows

    ..I have kind of same problem with rear right window...but jiggling with the button eventually will do it. Obviously a faulty contact in the switch. I did not manage to open the door or switch yet.
    register and browse through
  • uncleb1uncleb1 Posts: 1
    ive got a 02 4dr sportage,,an the power windows dont go up or down on all 4 of them.sometimes they work sometimes they go down then dont go up now they are up an wont go down..all fuses check ok,,not sure if there a relay for these or is it a switch problem.. :confuse:
  • dailydatadailydata Posts: 7
    I also have an 02 sportage I have been very happy with it, and very few problems but recently I have experience the same problem with the right rear window will not work at all, I just had it in the shop for maintenence with external interior cleaning done also and the window has not worked since so perhaps a wire was just loosed or something, I have solved auto problems on this site before even when the dealers mechanic could not find the problem so I am sure our hosts will continue to be helpful thank you all,
  • mgpagemgpage Posts: 2
    My a/c is working fine (as well as it can in Houston) but the air will only blow out the windshield vents on the dashboard.....whether I set the dial to direct the air there or in my face or the floor. Any ideas on why this is and what I need to do to correct this???
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    THis is a mechanical cable control. So you have to look for this cable, is it secured on both ends, or is it disconnected from the control knob....????
  • keyopkeyop Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 Kia Sportage that has recently been stalling when I come to a stop or in traffic. I press on the accelerator and it bogs/stalls. It almost feels like im running out of gas and it's stalling. In most cases the motor doesnt die but seems to just loose power then run ok. Sometimes it does die but will crank back up and run fine til I stop again. It runs fine on the highway at regular speed. The check engine light came on and at times would flash. I've taken it to get the codes read. It was saying catalytic converter and misfire. I've since had the fuel injectors cleaned, a tune up, new fuel filter, new air flow sensor, a new catalytic converter(the one locacted under the car) and it still keeps cutting out/stalling when i come to stops. I'm about to change the Crank Position Sensor, cuz I've read on here that it could be the problem. Does anyone have any solutions to what my problem could be? I do know my manifold has a small crack and wondering if the Front Catalytic Converter may be clogged and causing the stall problem. I also had taken it to the Dealer and they charge me $89 for a basic diagnostic only to tell me that they couldnt figure out what the problem could be unless I paid an additional $200 for them to do more tests on it. What a rip off!!! They said if may be the Catalytic Converter or a Wiring harness issue. I guess the exhaust manifold and front catalytic converter is my next replacement to try to solve this issue. Can anyone help with advice before i end up changing every part under the hood???
  • keyopkeyop Posts: 7
    Well I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and wasted $80 cause it didnt solve my stalling problem. So I replaced the Front Catalytic Converter and Nope it still stalls out!!! I guess the Fuel pump will be the next thing I try to replace. Though I'm getting good Fuel pressure with the fuel pump that is on it now. I'm at a loss!!! I've spent way too much money replacing part after part and no resolve. I think the next thing I purchase will be a FOR SALE Sign!!! Disgusted at Kia!
  • cowboy97cowboy97 Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Sportage that I just changed the timing belt and the check engine light came on code is the cam positioning sensor. I have read quiet a bit of post on different web sites that when they changed the cam sensor that it still idled rough and the code was still the cam sensor. Could you please tell me where the pre cat is located? I have looked on and did'nt see the location.
  • boeing4boeing4 Posts: 5
    I have a 2008 kia sportage check engine light has come on it sputters and takes off very rough before it picks up speed seems as though it is not getting gas have had problems with it twice not wanting to start. will take it to the dealer but want to get a feel on what is going on.
  • keyopkeyop Posts: 7
    Kinda been dealing with the same problem. I took it to the Dealer and they couldnt figure what was wrong with it on the initial Diagnostic which was $89. They wanted to run more test on it for an additional $199. In other words they were taking me to the cleaners. Take it to another shop,, not the dealer!
  • boeing4boeing4 Posts: 5
    had it towed to the dealers they did not see the problem as of yet but didn't hesitate to tell me that I needed an oil change wanted to tell him that was not the reason that I bought my car in but instead $31.00 and counting I have 10,000 miles on my car which by the warranty it is covered for just about everything so I'm waiting today to see what they have to say.
  • boeing4boeing4 Posts: 5
    dealer replaced cam sensor
  • boeing4boeing4 Posts: 5
    made a mistake when I said cam shaft sensor it was the crank shaft sensor so far the car is running great.
  • jhoeljhoel Posts: 1
    Hi, we really need someones help!
    We have been having a lot of problems to say the least about our Kia lately. We recently replaced the fuel pump and since then the car has been driving a little rough. It then fixed itself and seemed to run fine.
    Then the other day we were driving it and it just died in the middle of the street. We have checked the fuel pump, relays and other things and we believe it is something to do with power not getting to the fuel pump. Does anyone have any ideas?
  • royster2royster2 Posts: 1
    hi their, i own a 1999 kia sportage. it had been running verry well but then it started having a misfire. i thought it was something simple like a plug or plug lead so changed them both. no joy. then it was suggested i change the coil packs so i changed them both. again no joy. then it was suggested that i should may have a vaccume pipe problem, so they were all checked and were fine. after that i was recomended that i may have a leak at the inlet manifold, so this has also been checked. it only has 99 thousand miles on the clock.
    now the vehicle starts first turn of the key, does not over heat and when it is started, runs fine on all cylinders for about 20-30seconds and then the misfire starts.
    i really don't want to scrap this vehicle but i'm slowly thinking that may be the only option left, CAN YOU HELP ME.
  • I have a 2008 KIA Sportage EX--I had gone out for lunch everything was fine went back 2 hrs later and the front windshield was completely broken from bottom to top. My car was sitting against a wall and nothing could have hit it and I had it checked by a glass expert they said it was a pressure break not an impact break. Has anybody else had this problem? I took it to the dealer and they was going to replace it but then decided not to so I have to meet with the KIA rep next week.
  • hfolkshfolks Posts: 4
    The pre cat is located with the manifold.
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