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Isuzu Trooper Maintenance and Repair



  • rodp2rodp2 Posts: 3
    I have added Shudder Fixx twice and the shudder keeps coming back. Has your shuddering returned?
  • Try - they have great prices and any easy search interface.

    Search under the extras tab - not the specific drop-down for Isuzu but for all cars. Then select Exhaust : Pipe : Inner & Outer Braid Flex Pipe

    I chose a PCI Part # 542 Flex Pipe Coupling - w/extensions, 2" diameter (8" overall length).

    To install I then:
    (1) cut out the bad flex pipe just outside the weld beads
    (2) used an oxy-acetylene torch to remove the 2 bolts on the right down pipe.
    (3) fit the flex pipe to the down pipe and other crossover pipe loosely.
    (4) loosely reassembled with a new gasket on the down-pipe joint
    (5) assemble 2" U-clamps on the ends of the new flex pipe with a thin layer of muffler cement
    (6) line everything up - you may have to rotate the flex pipe if it is not perfectly straight, especially to get the pipe flange lined up nicely and avoid stress
    (7) snug everything up.

    Note that the flex joint ends can be welded too but everything is tight to the transmission at least with a 5-speed and push button 4WD. The TOD option appears to use slight different piping per parts manual I looked over.
  • rodp2rodp2 Posts: 3
    Anyone know how I can find out the plug size and thread size on a transmission plug for a 2001 Isuzu Trooper SL? I am trying to purchase a drain plug with a valve from
  • Bet your muffler and or pipes are loose
  • I have an 88 Trooper ii I bought 6 months ago 4c 5 speed 4x4 115K miles.
    Im really impressed with and enjoy. Yesterday I was getting ready to go enjoy the weekend in the mountains, and never had a problem with the Trooper before , I went to start engine and it started and ran at idle for about 5 or 6 secs, then died, I tried several more times , same result. Also had low fuel,oil,o2,and brake lights on dash.
    I read in here several threads about vacume leaks and throtle body cleaning.
    I started by taking vacume lines and cutting about half an inch off of each line then realized the lines were in way to bad of shape { dry rot }, so went and bought about 15ft of Vacume line, replaced all. Then Pulled the tubing between Throtle body and aircleaner and cleaned with carbcleaner, then I pulled the battery cables , cleaned cables and battery posts. tried starting it , took several tries , then it started and idled without dying, but dash warning lights still on, turned off and on again and warning lights are gone, idle surged hi then low and did this for a few minutes till I realized I had switched two vacume lines by mistake, now it purrs and has better acceleration than before and now idles were it should. Was very stressed last night reading in here on it , but am very happy now, thanks all.
  • bellwestern80bellwestern80 Posts: 2
    edited May 2011
    I picked up a 2000 Isuzu Trooper from a local car dealership a few days ago with around 179K on the odometer. When I got it home, it began and misfiring shook terribly while in gear, so I took it back and they replaced the right rear fuel injector and replaced the spark plugs (for free as a courtesy), and the engine ran with out all the hesitation and loss of mid-range power. Now the shaking is back, not as bad, but it happens while idling and while accelerating (Cruising in the lower RPM bands is fine). It also makes a louder acceleration noise while, but during the test drive it was nice and quiet. I'm not sure if a motor mount could of gone bad since the engine was firing so erratically before and causing shaking, but I don't want this car to become a money-hole, especially in the expectation for a cheap, older car. A few other things I have noticed is the fuel does smell a bit stale and it is 1,500 miles overdue for an oil change. I am not currently driving it until I swing it past Jiffy-Lube for the oil change. Does anyone have any idea what is causing the shaking now? Could it be the timing belt?

    Notes: It's a Trooper S with 2 Wheel Drive.
    It has the 3.5 V6 Engine with Automatic Transmission.
  • thanks to your reply to faraidun, I was able to fix my problem. my transmission would work fine until the check transmission light would come on, then it would go into safe mode. as you said i jumped the computer and got code 49. it took forever to find out what that was, but it turned out to be the alternator was putting out high voltage. i replaced it yesterday and now everything works great, the belts dont even squeal now.
    i found the code translation at:
  • I bought my Tropper used last summer. It has about 250k miles on it, but runs really well.

    However, recently the batter warning light on the dash has come on and I am experiencing some strange accelerations issues. Almost like a cylinder or two isn't firing. It goes away if I let the car warm up for a while, but the light stays on.

    The batter is only 6 months old and was brand new when I put it in.

    Alternator? Plugs and Wires?
  • tomtom13tomtom13 Posts: 1
    Try the oxygen sensor.
  • The problem was a misfire due to aged coil packs. The repair took longer since the engine was GM sourced, so it had to be moved from the Honda dealer I bought it at.
  • catweazelcatweazel Posts: 1
    Wondering if anyone has any idea what might have caused warning lights to light up/stay on on my Trooper 3.1 diesel. I was driving along with air con on (living in Spain so essential) when the air con stopped working and several warning lights (ABS, Water Separator, Battery and Timing belt) came on and have stayed on since. Also the blower fan does not work even without the air con switched on.

    Seems to be running ok so could this be just fuse/electrical fault. I'm no mechanic so any suggestions welcomed.
  • I have a '93 Trooper, manual trans, SOHC engine, and need to replace the front exhaust pipe (from manifold to the Y).
    Parts sellers have this for Auto trans vehicles but not for manual trans vehicles.
    I was told that the pipe for the auto trans vehicle will work, because it is formed to get around the larger auto trans. Since the manual trans is smaller in size, this pipe will work.
    Any knowledge on this would be appreciated.
  • When I take off it starts jerking in first gear, but when I put it in winter drive it works just fine...I mean its slower cause its in winter drive but it doesnt vibrate. If anyone could please give me some addvice I would really appreciate it so far I have been told that I just need a new transmission. Anything would help..Thanks so much!
  • aconaacona Posts: 1
    I have an 1989 Trooper. Left/Right CV boots have to be replaced on the front axles. Mechanics in my area say it is too hard a job to tackle. Has anyone had experience replaing the boots only (not axle)? If so, how hard is the job? Thank you
  • vogesvoges Posts: 1
    Hi! I have a V6 '99 Isuzu Trooper, it has an exhaust leak that wont let it pass inspection. I took it to the mechanic and they said the donut gasket is leaking and the down pipe on the left bank is loose? I would love to fix this ourselves but when I :confuse: tried to get a Haynes or Chiltons manual but was told they dont make one? Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!
  • rsstrsst Posts: 4
    I have 96 trooper limited,Iv been doing repair work an I found water in the exhaust manifold,what's going on?
  • lilypad1lilypad1 Posts: 1
    I think I bought her Isuzu trooper and I want to get it fixed, I have taken it to every mechanic I know. We had it scanned at a transmission shop and they said no problems with the tranny. We put a new used drive line in it, rotated tires, new brakes, It makes a noise like you driving over a grid between 30 and 35 and then goes away after you get higher in speed. If I put in Power drive (its only two wheel drive) it doesnt do it until it reaches 40 to 45. Any ideas would be hreatly appreciated.
  • micahbozmicahboz Posts: 1
    I have a recurring problem on my Isuzu Manual Transmission. Once every three months or so, my clutch goes limp and I can't get it to shift at all. I then take it into a mechanic who tells me he replaces my clutch cylinder, and it seems to work again for a bit.

    Why is my clutch going? Is there some sort of hydraulic pump with a leak perhaps?
  • molylepkemolylepke Posts: 1
    Its the heatshields over your exhaust. They are cracked and when air goes through them the make a terrible noise. Fix: leave it alone or take them off.
  • rsstrsst Posts: 4
    Could somebody send me pictures of a 96 trooper engine. Need to look at thermostat housing. Have a extra hose an it's been plugged off an don't know where it goes. Chiltons manual is garbage!!!
  • advcompsadvcomps Posts: 1
    I just changed the clutch last week and it drove OK for a few days. It will go into 2nd , 4th and reverse. The clutch is working fine because it will not roll on a hill when the clutch is engaged. I have removed the shift lever and the plastic peice on the bottom is OK. I tried to shift it into 1st 3rd or reverse with a screwdriver and it will not shift into those gears. Any Ideas?
  • jsterenjsteren Posts: 1
    2000 Trooper with 177k miles. Car was running fine but needed new EGR. I had the EGR replaced, new plugs, and new valve cover gaskets. Now it is running poorly, mis-firing, especially under load. It first was displaying the p0401 code for insufficient EGR Flow, then a code for misfire in cylinder #1, and now is throwing the p0401 code and p0300 code for random/multiple misfires in all cylinders. The check engine light will occasionally start flashing, usually at freeway speeds. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Jacob.
  • rsstrsst Posts: 4
    I have a 96 trooper, it over heats at low speeds 20- 50mph, but if I go over 50mph, it won't overheat. Could some one tell me what gives?
  • dll_guatedll_guate Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem, which today might have gotten fixed. Is the noise coming from the rear end? A friend of mine is a Honda mechanic and he said that the Trooper needs a special non-slip additive to the rear differential gear box. It is standard for Isuzu Troopers. We added it and it appears to have stopped the noise. The additive costs about $15.00. Worth a try. Cheap fix if it stays fixed.
  • Did you find the pix u needed ??
    I have a 97 Acura SLX/Trooper with a V-6 + will do the pix if you still need them
  • NufSaidNufSaid Posts: 6
    2 things to check first from the computer there is a bundle of wire with about 100 wires in it follow that bundle there is a bolt that hold things tight bolt comes loose and when u hit a bump it causes the computer to loose ground and the reduce power light to come on. silver box about 11 x 11 the computer that is drivers side by master cyl

    NUMBER 2 The main cause if you have checked all sencors this is the ANSWER My 2004 rodeo reduce power lite came on once in awhile if i got out and taped on the throttle body and then started the engine it was good for awhile. what that did was jar the brushes on the throttle actuator motor. every time it came on i just got out and taped on the housing. What i did was remove the motor from the throttle body housing took the motor apart which was very easy where the brushes ride was all black. Took some sand paper cleaned very carefully till all the black was gone. Never came on again 3 years ago. They have a issue with this more than u think several people i told this to and they fixed there reduce power lite issue easy if it comes on try raising hood tapping on the throttle body housing opsite end from where the wire plugs in there is a electric motor in this housing. Then start light goes off do the above and clean
  • Recently got my first car. Its a 2000 Isuzu Trooper LS 2wd with 159k miles.
    I bought it having CEL on, (has an exhaust leak and egr needs cleaning). Also, abs light is on, cuz brakes need changing, bad. When I bought it, it had close to no oil, but overall good condition.
    It does make loud ticking do to the exhaust leak. I'm going to get oil change soon, should I use normail or Mobil 1 synthetic? Also, what weight? I didnt get a manual with it.
    I got it for $1600...a bargain. Also, whats a good tuneup to do on it?
    I'm 18 and I like cars but need to learn more
    about them. Dont know a lot yet, just the basics. Also, would it hurt to drive it with
    Cel ad abs light on for a couple months? Or does egr cleankng and exhaust leak need fixing asap?
    I'm looking to carry this trooper well over 200k miles, I hope it serves me
  • sloloco1sloloco1 Posts: 1
    edited November 2012
    The P401 code is common on the 3.5L engine. Often times the EGR valve itself is fine. The real problem is build up of gunk from around town driving in the manifold tube that goes to the EGR valve. Every 6mo. or so the best thing to do is get a can of carb cleaner and spray it through the tube. To do so you must first loosen the two bolts and remove the EGR valve itself. Once you have done so, simply start the engine and begin spraying the cleaner into the larger of the two holes atop the manifold where the EGR was mounted. Be sure to do so while the engine is running, and spray just enough to not choke out and kill the motor. I pretty much run the whole can through it. Afterwards it should run smoother and the P401 code will not come back on once you reset it with your OBC reader.
  • myth1myth1 Posts: 2
    edited November 2012
    I started having speedometer issues a few months ago on my 2001 Trooper 2WD Automatic. 72,000 original miles. (Yes pretty low mileage. I have a short commute to work and I had another primary vehicle for 3 years.) The speedometer has been registering lower speeds, like 30 mph when I am going 60 or 65 mph. Like it is slipping. Won't make it up to freeway speeds. Now it is just mostly not working and sitting at 0 mph. From what I have read on forums, it might be the speed sensor. The other gauges including tachometer, voltage, etc. work fine. I went to an ex Isuzu dealer here in Florida, He found 2 different parts identified as a speed sensor on their technical diagram of the transmission. The part was small but he said it cost like $470 just for the part. I found this webpage with an image of a speed sensor and a much lower price of $204. But the images he found were different. So I am not sure which part is really the correct speed sensor. - rid=d50594y2001j1

    I'm wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue with their speedometer and how it was resolved. Also any hints where to get the best price on the speed sensor? On another note, the parts tech told me that Isuzu dealers are only going to carry parts for Isuzu's for another 4-5 years. Then game over, we are screwed to get parts. Is that statement true?
  • I realize this post is 3 months old. I hope you have addressed some of the issues by now.

    I use 5w-30 mobil 1 or better. When I have the time and money I will do 6 months or so with amsoil.

    As far as a tune up goes:

    Plugs- Be sure to get the manual reccomended type.
    PCV Valve
    Air Filter

    I would find out if the timing belt and water pump was replaced around 100k. If not then start planning for it. IMO a good mechanic will tell you to do those items together since you have to tear so much apart to get to it.

    I would get the EGR cleaned soon which will only improve performance. Some have related this cleaning to the oil problem I mention below. So you might be burning oil and think that this will fix the problem. Well it wont cure it but it will help.

    The exhaust can wait but don't neglect it.

    IMO- Stick to the owners manual maintenance guide. If it recommends a fluid change at x amount of miles then do it.

    Get more than one opinion and estimate when shopping for the work to be done at a shop.

    I am not sure with the 2000 + models if there was a oil drain problem like there is in mine...when the oil cycles up and drains down through the motor there are not enough holes for it to resettle down in the oil pan. Thus the oil stays atop and burns out through the exhaust...almost invisibly and before you know it your driving 70 mph down the highway and your engine seizes up and your pissed off because you didn't have any warning what so ever and you tell yourself "hmmm I thought I was doing regular could this have happened?" SO CHECK YOUR OIL REGULARLY!!! Fortunately I haven't had this problem yet.

    I own a 1999 Performance PKG with TOD. Someone removed the TR. Bought with 86,000. Now have 137,000
    Repairs and major maintenance items:
    Water Pump
    Timing Belt.
    Rear Differential/ pinion seal leak and replacement.
    Cylinder 3 misfire. Just had valve job. Looked like somebody took a bite out of the valve. Looks like pac man.
    Currently has exhaust leak. Not yet replaced/ fixed.
    Car was raised in Texas for first 50,000 miles. So the A/C compressor was shot. Had that done last year. Since then the rear bank o2 sensor keeps appearing on the "Check engine light" My mechanic told me don't worry about it. I had it replaced once and with-in days it had failed. I cant afford to keep doing that and I don't have time to listen to theories.

    Future plans:
    Exhaust fix/ replacement
    Noisy lifters. Not sure what to do about that.
    Tranny flush and a tranny cooler installed. I tow a lot.
    Rear air bag stabilizers.
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