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Chevrolet Blazer GMC Jimmy Transmission Problems



  • Hi ddeal.... I have recently ran into the same issue you described in the above post a few years back. Did you ever figure out what was causing that issue?
    I recall having greased the ball joints in the past and that seemed to rid this symptom for a while.
  • skstn34skstn34 Posts: 3
    Thanks for reminding me to post!!

    Okay, it was the transmission GOING OUT, the dealership, or whomever, doctered up the tranny with motor oil !! I replaced the entire tranny.

    My advice to any Blazer owner reading this, as soon as your Check Engine Light comes on, drop by an Auto Zone, they'll check the code for free. Mine couldn't take steep inclines on the interstate without triggering my light, plus the rpms jumped up and never would jump back down, until I shut the truck off and restarted.

    I would have never known if I only used my truck locally, but towing a decent load, and blowing fluid out the back is a BIG sign something's up!

    Hope this helps someone!
  • carkeycarkey Posts: 2
    My Blazer has just started to have some problems with the transmission not wanting to go back into neutral and start in first gear. When I slow down into a stopped position, and then get ready to apply the accelerator, the Blazer seems to be in second instead of first gear from a complete stopped position. I have topped off the transmission fluid. What do you think could be the problem?

    From the Blazer being in a stopped position and then I apply the accelerator to start moving, the Blazer acts like it is starting in second instead of first... What should I do? I have topped off the transmission fluid. What should I do next?
  • carkeycarkey Posts: 2
    Hey there fellas,

    My Blazer's driver side door has started to sag. I have looked at the door hinge and it looks like the top hinge on the door has sprung it's spring and the metal bushing has broken in half and is not there within the hinge pin area. How easy is it to get one of these hinge pin replacements and put it in yourself? What do you use and how long should it take and what tools do you use?

    Thanks fellas! Charley McGilicutty
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    This is a very common failure in the S10 series. The pin and bushing sets are available at most autoparts stores. One tool you might want to buy/borrow is the door spring compression tool. It makes the job much easier and safer.

    Good luck
  • craigmc74craigmc74 Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 2000 Jimmy. What was the resolution to your problem? I've got less than 50,000 miles on a $2500 tranny rebuild and I'm debating whether or not to get rid of this truck. If I can fix it myself with a replacement part like a relay, sensor or solenoid, no problem. If not, I'll start fresh with a new truck (I'll pull the motor, of course, because it is badass).
  • CaptnTonyCaptnTony Posts: 3
    @craigmc74: My surging was fixed by doing a transmission flush with new filter and refill. Mine happened at about 1200 -1220 rpm if I recall correctly (might have been hiway speed so 1500-1520, it's been that long w/o it happening :) ). What ever it was, it could be reproduced and it happened to be right at the rpm for the truck (2002 blazer) going 30mph - the local speed limit, so it constantly happened to me.

    I checked levels on the stick and it always looked good. I finally had to try this as a last resort and it worked perfectly.

    Hope that helps.
  • ramdodge1ramdodge1 Posts: 3
    Sorry, I wish I could help you out, I got rid of my Jimmy and baught a new car...good luck!
  • alj3jalj3j Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 4 X 4 jimmy 4.3 auto. 125k with 30k scince trans rebuild. Shifts fine and no slip in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. When overdrive kicks in, will chatter under a little accelration. Almost seems like low on fluid ( it's not) as it pulls good for 2 seconds, then chatters (tach goes up 2-3k) for 2 sec. then pulls good for 2 sec, etc. Any help/ideas? Thanx, Al
  • rideusrideus Posts: 4
    Truck as 115,000 and has pulled a 5x8 trailer with band equipment for the past 6 years on weekends only. Seemed like it was shifting hard from 1st to 2nd but thought it was in my head.

    Just last night, it started making a very loud winding sound (like a loud drill) while driving in overdrive and then it would quite. Like it was engaging and then disengaging or something. When I got home, it had no reverse. I could drive forward but it would get up to 3000 rpms before shifting to 2nd.

    Got it to a very well respected tranny shop. Had work on a Dodge done there before and they've been around here for 40+ years.

    Seems I need to be aware that it could be an electronic/computer issue and not just a mechanical transmission issue? As someone said, anyone will probably want to rebuild a tranny with that many miles on it that has been pulling a trailer.

    Should I take it to a dealer to better diagnose the electrical aspect of it? Seems most tranny shops are more "gear oriented" than electrical/computer oriented.

    Great forum and posts. All very helpful.

  • dgcallerdgcaller Posts: 7
    edited June 2010
    The problem is caused by worn contacts in the electrical part of the key switch. There are several contacts in it and one of them provides power to the transmission, which has several electronic controls and also solenoids on the valve body. The transmission does really strange things when the power is intermittent or not there, including not going into 1st and 3rd gear, shifting really hard, and more.

    There is a small solenoid on the mechaical part of the key switch that prevents the key from being removed when not in the unlocked position. If it does not get power, it prevents the key from being removed in any position.

    I've had the exact same problems you have and more, and all of them went away immediately when I replaced the electrical part of the key switch. The cable to the switch is captive on the switch unit, and connects to the harness at the lower end of the steering column.

    You have to remove the lower part of the dash and the plastic housing from around the upper end of the steering column where the switch is. To remove the switch itself, you need s really small star screwdriver or a small flat-bladed screwdriver that will fit in the star-head screws and turn them.
    The switch costs from $80 to $110 depending on where you get it.
  • rideusrideus Posts: 4

    Per the transmission shop - it's the Reverse Input Drum. He said the the GM 4L60E trannys are known for this. I actually didn't have a second gear at all, as well as a reverse, which is what the Reverse Input Drum controls if I understood him correctly.

    $1700 rebuild - 12 month, 12,000 mile warranty.
  • 2manytoyz2manytoyz Posts: 7
    Yep, the tranny was bad, I replaced it with a good used one for less than $300 total out of pocket expense. It's hard to justify spending $1,700 on a rebuilt, for a car thats over a decade old, and could be purchased in running condition for $1,700.
  • thatazguythatazguy Posts: 9
    When dealing with these electrical issues, try dielectric gel on all the connections. It is diagnostic at worst, temp fix at best. I just reapply every 6 months or so. It is that or buy new harness from the firewall block to the 'puter. Any voltage loss could just be bad connections due to corrosion. PB Blaster supposedly helps remove the corrosion. I would gel 1st. This is on top of the basic - change filter and fluid.
  • My 1999 Blazer won't shift into reverse. The night before this started, it gave me problems shifting out of first gear. I had to ease off the gas pedel for it to shift out of first. The next morning, I tried backing out of my driveway and it won't engage into reverse. It will go forward, but I only have enough room to go a foot or so to know it will at least go. I've heard that there is a modulator on the side of the transmission. Could this be the problem or is the trans shot?
  • Just had my reverse go out today, like others. It's also not shifting correctly and has the drill sound when I try to put it in reverse (and a bit when it was going into drive).

    All fluids look to be good shape as that was one of the first things verified.

    So, if it's going to be a rebuild or a buy used option, I'm going to buy used too I think - 1200+ for a rebuild seems a bit steep (and my job isn't going to be there in two months...soooo).

    So, I'll have to start calling around but have no idea which transmission I have in the beast. Can I tell by the vin, or do I have to get under and identify it somehow?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    try "s10warehouse" on ebay. I have had good luck with them in the past.

    No, I do not work for, nor own the company. Just two old blazers that are constantly needing parts!
  • lordsinlordsin Posts: 1
    it works but the transmission is missed up i have to but in 2nd gear or 1st then drive then keep changing it until it kicks in then it will go 30 or 40 tell me do i have to buy a new transmission or can i fix it tell me what i should do :)
  • pocitypocity Posts: 7
    I have 3 possible remedies for you.
    1. You can try and add a can of "Trans X". I get mine at WalMart for about $6.00
    2. If option 1 does not work you may need to have the valve body and solenoids replaced. If you do this also replace the wire harness in the trans.
    Before you do option #2 take it to a place like Auto Zone and have them read the codes for you. They do it for free. The codes they pull will tell you if it is the shift solenoids.
    3. You will need to get the trans rebuilt or replaced.
  • I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy that wont shift out of first or second gear and the speedometer quit working as well. When the speedometer works it will shift into all gears fine.

    Any suggestions?
  • It sounds to me like you have a speed sensor problem. The ECM need the speed sensor input to tell the tranny to shift since it is electronic. It might be as simple as a loose wire. Get your mechanic to check the sensor and wiring for you speedometer.
  • Hi, my brother in law just gave me his blazer that have a funny problem:

    When the engine is cold and I shift it in reverse the tranny engage for a second or two then the engine would torque 'till its bangs the mounts then stall.

    when warm the tranny would shift in reverse with no problems and trough any gears

    when hot the tranny would shift only in first trough 3rd gear and when on neutral or park I can hear a clicking noise and would not shift in reverse at all

    the trruck has 413 000km and the tranny was rebuilt at 375 000km the engine has been rebuilt also around the same km by the previous owner

    any help would be really apreciated
  • update

    now the tranny sift in gears but after a minute or two the tranny won't shift in any gears at all but sometime it shift in and get out of gear after 20-25 seconds
  • update the shift solenoids are all busted and they're pricey so I'll go in a junk yard near my place and will disassemble a couple of tranny's to get some spare solenoids to fix it
  • I've been having issues with the transmission in my 4 door blazer since I bought it 2 years ago. At first it was shifting hard from 1st to 2nd, that seems to have stopped but now it slips out of gear and wont back up until the engine is warm. I dont want to fix the problem, I just want to know if theres a way to put a 5 speed manual in it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
  • ozvolozvol Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Chevy Blazer ZR1 4wd that will not shift into passing gear. When the trans tries to shift the RPMs shoot up and it is like being placed in neutral. Once the speed drops to app 40 mph it is in gear and then the problem starts over again.

    Any and all help appreciated.
  • 98sl298sl2 Posts: 2
    I looked on here and cannot find the same problem that im 96 blazer auto trans with od.when the transmission shifts through the gears its like it goes into nuetral for 2 seconds then goes into the next gear no problem.the same when i go to passing gear.its not slipping and i have changed the fluid and filter.the fluid was nice and red everytime i changed it so i dont think its a bad clutch plates.could it be the shift solenoids that are making this happen?
  • I have the exact same problem with my 99 4x4 blazer, if i have the shift in drive it shifts through first and second fine, but as soon as it goes to hit third its like it drops into neutral and revs like a sob. I am taking it to the shop hopefully this week but if you found out what the problem was please let me know thank you.
  • I have a 1997 Blazer. It started to fail to return to the 1st shift after fully stop or low speed. I had to turn off the engine to get it back to 1st shift. I have repleced the four transmision solenoid and after 3 month it failed again to return to the 1st shift. I parked the car for 2 month and after that the problem was gone but it came back in month and a half later. I parked back for other month and it run fine and suddenly start the problem again. the transmission does not go back to the 1st shift when fully stopped. today it did it but it started to work good alone and then did it again and then problem gone alone.
    Can any one help me? does someone has an idea of what can be causing that and how to fix it? :confuse:
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