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Chevrolet Blazer GMC Jimmy Transmission Problems



  • there are a few things that could be wrong with your trans. it would be hard to "hip shoot" just from what you are describing. but a few questions come to mind. did you change the solenoids because of a trouble code or did you just replace them? what was the condition of the fluid the first time you dropped the pan? was there any material in the bottom of the pan? were to solenoids new or used? is your check engine light on? there are a few things that could cause a second gear start. it could be a stuck valve in the valve body, it could be caused by a t.p.s way out of whack [ telling the comp. that your throttle is open when its not] i would find a reputable trans shop instead of guessing on this one.
  • sounds like your 3/4 clutches are fried. hate to say it . chances are when they drop the pan theyre going to find a bunch of clutch material in the bottom of the pan. the only fix for that is to pull it and rebuild it. i know it sounds harsh, consider whether its worth holding onto. if its in good shape otherwise i'd say fix it. you should expect to spend around $1800 for the rebuild, but you'll get a warranty with it. may or may not be better than buying another vehicle. hope all goes well.
  • more trouble that its worth. you may or may not have to change the drive shafts because of length differences. then you will have to install a clutch pedal assembly under the dash which is a nightmare. then you will have to install the hydraulic master cylinder and line in the firewall. better to rebuild the one thats in it.
  • I had all the same symptoms with the slow start and no first or fourth gear. The key wouldn't come out of the ignition so I knew when I read this I found my solution. This is my second one so taking it out was a breeze and orielly has a lifetime warranty, this time it was free. The first time the blazer would die while driving and stall out at lights. The last one lasted two years and since they pack so much control into one switch this model seems to chew them up. Thanks for the diagnosis, I fixed it on the first try!
  • hilljayhilljay Posts: 1
    how long is the trans dip stick in a 1998 chevy blazer 3.1 v6 4wd?
  • I have a 97 blazer i put a new motor in it when i got it running the trans would shift hard i plugged it into the computer because the check engine light was on it was the throttle position sensor changed it and the trans shifted properly as soon as that was done , hope this helps.
  • adqautoadqauto Posts: 1
    3.1 L in a 98? Do you really have a 60 degree 3.1L that looks like a short, small SBC 350? Because if you do, it must not be stock. That would make it difficult to answer your question.
  • lettau88lettau88 Posts: 1
    i had that problem got it fixed now 3 gear its wont catch and just wines out. everything else works awesome. is it the tranny or can it be fixed someone let me know thanks
  • I bought a 97 chevy blazer, when i first got it the vehicle drove good, now i have a tranny problem, you have to put it into 1st gear to take off then it drives good, 2nd problem A/C and power windows stopped working, replaced all relays under hood and the three in the glove box. I don't know what to do anymore,
  • dh6dh6 Posts: 1
    check ignition switch
  • n8tiveonen8tiveone Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    when i start the car there is a clunking sound at a stand still when and if it moves it only goes max of 5-10mph i was wondering if it could b a bad touqe converter but am not a machanic
  • rongfrongf Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my transmission in my 1997 Chevie Blazer. Does anyone have an answer on how to solve this problem. I have had shift solenoids and valve body gasket replaced. Neither worked.

    Does anyone have an answer to how this can be fixed?
  • I have a 97 Chevy Blazer that has ran pretty good for the most part. The transmission has been fault free since I've owned it. The other day, I was in cruise control at 75 mph, and just like someone flipped a switch, there was no 3rd or 4th gear. Also the speedo crashed to 0 as soon as it happened. After I got pulled off the road, I ran it through the gears. It engaged perfectly into 1st and reverse. It didn't want to shift into 2nd very well, and 3rd and overdrive were not an option. After a few hours of sitting, I decided to try it again on a cool motor and transmission. Sure enough, everything worked like normal. Transmission fluid was fine (didn't smell burnt and levels were good). Could this be some kind of solenoid issue? Cost?
  • The vehicle shifts through the gears normally, but will not shift into the higher gears. Does not shift into the passing gear when you give it gas. It also acts like it is restricted. What could be the problem(s)?
  • The problem is not likely in the transmission but in the key switch, even if you get DTCs that indicate the solenoids. The transmission is electronically controlled. If the voltages to the solenoids are low or power is interrupted, the transmission exhibits all kinds of shift problems. The power to the solenoids is routed through the key switch, which has 6 contacts in it. If the contacts are dirty or worn, the voltage to the tranny is low and the solenoids do not work. My trans had some similar symptoms and when I replaced the key switch, they all went away instantly.
  • This key switch that you are talking about where is it located at on the vehicle?
  • The electric part of the key switch is a black plastic box about 1 x 1 x 1-1/2 inches and is lkocated in the steering column right behind the mechanical part of the key switch (where you put the key in). There is a multi-wire harness attached to the box that goes down the steering column and plugs into a connector at the bottom end of the steering column.

    To replace the switch, you have to remove the lower part of the dashboard so you can get at the plug, and remove the plastic covers around the key switch. You need a really small star (not phillips) screwdriver to unscrew the screws that hold the switch in place. The plug on the harness has two screws that hold it into the connector. You have to unscrew them to unplug the plug.

    The switch and harness cost from $108 to $130 depending on where you get it. If you get it from an auto parts store it's less expensive but they may have to order it. A chevy ddealer will have it but they charge more

    Let me know if you have any questions.
  • Could the problem with the key switch also cause other problems with sensors, anti-lock brakes, etc? And also, is "key switch" the technical name for the part? I couldn't find a result for it on NAPA's website.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    The ignition switch and harness assembly is part number GM- 26061329 or AC Delco D1498C . It is available at any Chevrolet dealership (probably a special order) or any auto parts retailer that sells a complete line of AC Delco parts. It costs $183.70 MSRP with a jobber price of $90.00 to $98.00
  • dgcallerdgcaller Posts: 7
    edited September 2011
    Answering two messages at once.

    1. Re the ignition switch causing other problems: Yes, probably. The center of a switch is a rotating plastic cam that opens and closes the six contacts in varioius combinations, depending whether the switch is in Acc, Off, Run, or Start. The harness contains ten or twelve wires, connecting two sides of the 6 contacts to several places in the electrical system. Depending on which contacts are worn or burned, you can have a variety of problems, such as cranking but not starting, engine shutting off at random times (both caused by the ignition contact) transmission shifting problems, etc. These are problems I have seen.

    2, Regarding where the assembly can be purchased, in addition to a Chevy dealer, you can buy aftermarket versions of the switch from NAPA for about $130.00 or Karagen/O'Reilly for about $108.00. I don't know what the differences in quaility or durability are. Both NAPA and Kragen were special order (2 days).

    A couple of additional notes.
    1. Chevy sent out a notice to all it's dealers about 4 years ago, telling them that when customers reported transmission problems i this vehicle, to FIRST check the ignition switch. Most reported transmission problems were caused by the switch, not the transmission itself, even though the DTCs from the OBDII indicated failed solenoids in the valve body. There was nothing wrong with the solenoids. They simply were not getting power.

    2. I've had my blazer since 1997 (14 years). I first had the ignition switch problems about three years ago when the car was 11 years old. I replaced it with a NAPA unit and then took the GM switch apart to find out what was wrong with it. Two of the contacts were badly burned, two were dirty, and two seemed to have no wear at all. I assume that the burned contacts were the ignition and transmission, because that is where the problems were. I have the service manuals and could check the circuits but have not done that. Incidentally, the NAPA unit failed about 18 months after installation. Then I got a unit from Kragen. No problems with it since I installed it.

  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    After posting, you can edit your post for 30 minutes. :shades:
  • Ok got the new ignition switch put in, but unfortunately after a few mile test drive, the transmission started acting up again. Same problems as they were originally. A little discouraged, but any other suggestions out there? Time for a newer vehicle maybe. haha
  • Sorry Tony, but I don't remember what the original problems were and I could not find your original messages in the past threads. Can you tell me again what the symptoms are?

    Check the electrical connector at the transmission. The plug is on the drivers side of the transmission. Claen the area around the plug, then pull it out and plug it in again. You did not mention if the SES (Service Engine Soon / check engine) light is on. If it is, you can take it to a shop and have them check the DTCs and turn off the light. It will cost about $100.
    I do this myself now with a laptop and a kit I bought that includes a connector that plugs into the OBDII connector on the car and a software app. Cost about $150, but has paid for itself several times over.
  • tony_7991tony_7991 Posts: 5
    edited September 2011
    Hey! The initial trouble started about 3 weeks ago. I was about 30 miles into a trip, and out of no where, I dropped D and OD and the speedo crashed to 0. 1st and 2nd still worked so I was able to limp it off the road. From P or N, it still shifted perfectly in to R or 1st. Transmission oil is full, and smells normal. After time to cool off, everything seems to work like normal. After replacing the ignition switch, I took it for a test drive, and problem came back. There actually was a check engine light on before, but after reconnecting the battery, it hasn't came back on...yet. I believe it was on before for an oxygen sensor.
  • Hi, my name is t.j. I just have a quick question to ask you about swapping out your tranny. I'm getting ready to do the same thing to my 95 jimmy. but what I was wounding is can you tell me what tools I will need to remove the tranny and put in another one? If possible can you email me directly at I'm using my sisters facebook and email to log on to edmunds. Thanks. I hope you can help me. I'm going to a salvage yard to get the other tranny so I need to know what tools I'll need to take that one out and also taking the old tranny out. then I need to know what tools I'll need to put the other tranny in. and do I need anything like a transmission lift. I don't know if thats even a tool? anyway. thanks in advance. T.J.
  • In the process of removing the cylinder lock in a S-10 blazer, the steering wheel and cylinder lock lock up and will not turn in either direction. How do you unlock the steering wheel and cylinder lock to complete the removal of the cylinder lock?
  • It's been a while since I've done this. As recall, you have to remove a small solenoid that mounts underneath the key cylinder. I think you can also just pull the shaft in the center of the solenoid downward to unock the wheel instead of removing the solenoid. I'll check my service manuals and get back to you in a day or so.
  • Thank you. Let me know.
  • Hi! I recently purchased a 1996 Chevy Blazer 4 by 4. When driving, the "Check Engine" light comes on and I noticed my transmission slipping. My car has to reach a couple thousand to three thousand RPM's to finally start moving. Just by happenstance, my battery died on the car. When I jumped it, my check engine light was off and my car shifted and drove fine. After about 10 minutes of driving, the "Check Engine" light came backon and the transmission started slipping again. Thoughts? Thanks!!!
  • To everyone having a problem with gm automatic trannies that must be manually shifted to low gear. The first place to look is the fuse panel. There is a 10 amp fuse marked trans. If this fuse is bad, the transmission will not return to low gear after coming to a full stop. It will start in second gear and acceleration will be very sluggish. Replace the fuse with a higher amperage fuse. The engine must be restarted for the transmission function to return to normal. If the fuse appears to be good, check the neutral safety switch mounted on the side of the transmission.
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