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Kia Sedona Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems



  • I have a 2003 Sedona I had to replace the motor in May and now I have had to replace, Cam shaft sensor, Crank shaft sensor, Ig failure sensor, and it still is acting up. Sometimes it will start and sometimes it will not. I can go out and it will start fine and go somewhere and be in the store for 5 min and come out and it will not start, I’ll wait a few min. or and hour then it will start. I can go out in the morning and it will not start then try it a few hrs later and it will start. NOW it will not start at all. It will turn over but not start. :mad
    I am soooo over this... Can anyone help :mad:
  • Sounds a lot like the fuel pump. They have a history of self destructing. The pressed metal fails and clogs the filter. The pump is in the tank. The early symptoms are - vehicle may start, run for a short time and stop or not start until sitting for a while. You may be able to drive at speeds less than 50 and nothing happens and then pull onto the interstate and it dies in a few miles. Let it sit and then it goes again and finally nothing - the pump is gone. These are the symptoms.

    You need to check for fuel delivery. You, or your mechanic should have changed the fuel pump when you changed the engine. If you didn't it would be my first suspect. You will need to check the fuses and then "listen" for the pump to run when you turn on the key (but don't engage the starter). You can disconnect the fuel line to see if you have pressure. Fuel pumps are typically good for about 60,000 miles but may last up to 120,000.
  • I agree it could be the fuel pump. The Sedona is known for it's fuel pump issues. I had the humming noise and the Kia fix did not take car of it under the recall so it was replaced under warranty.
  • jomad4jomad4 Posts: 1
    2005 KIA Sedona ignition switch will not turn. It is locked up. Can't turn the key.
  • We have had this issue with our 2007 Hyundai Entourage. Its been in the shop 3 times. I've been told to pull the key out and turn it upside down and put it back in and try. I was told to try the spare key. I was told to be SURE that when you pull into a spot that your tires are straight and the steering wheel is not all the way to one side or the other. It has been looked at by Field Engineering and they couldn't figure it out either. BUT .... they would not replace the ignition/ignition lock. Not even under warranty.
  • I have had the problem of NOT being able to put the key in the ingnition. The lock would engage and would not let me insert the key. I had it into the dealer and until I got it to do it he didn't believe me. He had heard of not being able to turn the key. That is why there is that little oval push out piece on the shift base that you pop out to disengage the locking mechanism. The dealer was going to replace the ingnition core under warranty. The biggest culprit causing these problems are heavy key chains. My daughter had given me a heavy gold key chain from Quebec. I took it off and I have had no problem with it sense. Just the downward weight of the key chain caused the little level inside the ingnition barrel to drop and not allow me to put in the key....Its been fine for months now.
  • judy56judy56 Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Kia Optima and have the same problem that the key switch is locked. I have had it towed in and of course it worked there. They say there is no problem. Have you found out the solution to the problem?
  • mattonemattone Posts: 5
    An update, it has been a year, and I have 45,000 miles on one of my Sedona's and 35,000 on the other and have not had any additional problems. knock on wood.
  • my situation is a little different than most. i've read many if not all on this forum relavent to the 2005 Kia Sedona stalling in traffic issue. some are stalling at high speed, some are stalling when slowing down, others are stalling and throwing a code. My problem started at approximately 100,000 miles.

    My 2005 Sedona LX (now, 109,000 miles) starts sputtering...ONLY... after it's warmed up, sitting in heavy traffic, and i'm accelerating from a stop or very slow speed. No Codes are thrown.

    I've gotten two suggestions on this (one part i had replaced we'll see). One suggestion from mechanic is that their call to California Kia (HQ?) gave them a suggestion from techs that a tech bulletin was issued on 'hot - stall,' and that the suggestion was the Throttle-body Position Sensor should be changed. Done. We'll see if it works.

    by thhe way, the second suggestion came from a UTI (Universal Technical Institute) Drivability Instructor who had previously worked at a Kia/Hundai dealer. He put a meter (flight data recorder..they sometimes call it), and found all the numbers very close to perfect, or at least in range....except...the long-term fuel trim, bank #2 was showing a very lean reading. He said that reading came from the O2 (oxygen) sensor. He looked at the O2 sensor for that bank and found it showing a lean reading as well. So, how to fix that??? He was going to look around a bit at some tech bulletins, etc. and get back with me. I'm not in contact with him, so haven't been able to follow up yet, but he didn't have a definite 'smoking gun' part that he suggested changing because of it. A lot of theories, nothing concrete.

    I chose to change the TPS and see what happens. If it works I'll post it here. If nothing, I'll only try a few other cheaper options until it gets bad enough to have 'had enough', then I'll get rid of it! We're a one-car family and can't have it down a lot because of this problem, but so far, it's been predictable. 1) hot weather, 2) traffic - hot engine 3) giving it fuel from low idle. I'll, actually, be looking to duplicate these three conditions before too long, when i get a free afternoon (in case i'm stuck on the side of the road for a couple of hours) to see if the TPS fixed it or if i get any of these symptoms again.

    We also had other major service done: timing belt (never changed yet), spark plugs (scheduled to change at 100,000), Injector flush. All totaled $1500.00 I invested it because, up until this sporadic problem that can only be duplicated in hot-heavy traffic, our Sedona has been near perfect! We have loved it...and would love to have this problem fixed. hope the TPS does it.

    Yes, i've read in the forum A LOT!!!!!....about rotors and brakes. I changed the pads and rotors on this thing 4 times in the first 80,000 miles. (this is the 'near' of the 'near perfect' rating that i mentioned before). However, no problems since then. why? because i replaced the rotors with slotted/drilled high performance rotors that i bought from a rotor company off of the internet and installed myself (it's easy) and the semi-metalic pads that were suggested by the rotor company. I stopped replacing with the thinner Kia rotor that has a tendency to warp when hot and stopped using the ceramic pads, which i notice Kia has stopped using as OE on their newer cars too (at least from what i was told by a parts person). The slotted rotors are a little more noisy, but they stay cooler and no more problems ! (in fairness to Kia, I also changed out both of the rear brake pistons ....forgot the name of the little thing.... because they were both showing slight leakage). This is wierd that they both went at the same time and i attribute it to the pressure having to be placed on the front bad brakes and rotors.

    All of that to say. The brakes are fine now, and the van has been a gem for us. We've owned bad cars and good cars. This has, for 100,000 miles been one of our better choices (price included).

    I'm not paid by kia, work for kia, and would prefer to buy a Honda van (or Toyota if they can get it together), but for the money, we haven't been disappointed with our Kia purchase. We feel we've gotten our money's worth out of it.

    By best suggestion is: give yourself plenty of margin in your schedule. It's a healtheir way to live anyway : )

    chat again later
  • topkitty27topkitty27 Posts: 1
    Most of the time when you cannot reinsert the key, it is because the key was removed before the lock was in the proper off position. This happens with keys that are extremely worn or have been improperly duplicated. Just insert the tip key and GENTLY turn counter-clockwise. Usually you will then be able to insert the key and it will function normally. It is also possible that the vehicle has a improperly generated cut combination from after market servicing or have the locks changed. These are pretty easy to spot because the tip of the key will be more narrow than the cuts that are closer to the head of the key. Similar to an arrow head. Just remember to NEVER use excessive force when the problem occurs as this could result in expensive repairs. A real, automotive locksmith can ordinarily repair and reconfigure the lock, to be less prone to malfunction. Unfortunately it is a recurring problem due to manufacturing tolerances that are in low end vehicles to reduce the cost. 25 years ago it was Datsun (Nissian today) that was the nightmare. I repaired many, many of these vehicles in the late 70's throughout 80's until ignition lock was redesigned. I spent 30+ years as a master locksmith and instructor and this would be my best guess. Good luck! Hope this helps!
  • daveofphillydaveofphilly Posts: 6
    edited May 2010
    So far so good....

    No more stalling after changing the TPS - Throttle Body Position Sensor (limited high heat situations so far, but seems to be working).
  • kskidkskid Posts: 2
    Yes! I have been having the same issue with my 02 Sedona. It's in the dealership for the 6th time in less then a month, of course they just called and told me they could not get it to stall for them. We've spent over $1,000 so far and it's still not fixed. We are very discouraged with Kia right now.
    Any advice?
  • kskidkskid Posts: 2
    Our 02 Sedona has been surging forward when coming to a stop and also stalling from time to time. It was in the dealership 4 times in 1 week in May and has been in 2 times this week. Of course the dealership cannot seem to get it to stall on them and claim the surging, which only started after the "fixed" it the 1st time, is normal and it's shifting into 1st.
    Has anyone else had these problems?
  • It 'seems' that we've hit on the solution, though none of the experts thought that what we did would have made any difference. Let me say that we had several things done at the same time, so we're not sure which it was that fixed it. I took it in for the following (we're at 110,000 miles on our '05 Sedona LX):

    Timing belt change (this was supposed to be done at 60,000)
    Spark Plugs changed (platnum: recommended at 100,000)
    fuel injection flush (trying to solve the bucking problem in traffic)
    Throttle Body Position Sensor - TPS (trying to solve the bucking problem in traffic)

    The TPS change was a 'bulletin' that had been posted by the California Kia Tech line as a "high heat, stalling' fix.

    We have been sitting in heavy traffic since this work was done. The engine has gotten hot (not by temp dial), and would have, before this work was done, stalled or started bucking during acceleration from a stop, and it has not done it any more since the work was completed. So, to date, the problem is fixed.

    It might have been a combination of the TPS, spark plugs, and injectors. Or it might have been any one of them (the timing belt wasn't likely the fix). However, Kia California would put their money on a faulty TPS. For what it's worth. let me know if this seems to fix it.

  • jirkajirka Posts: 15
    Well, we have the problem again. Our 2007 Sedona worked for more than a year but today, the car suddenly switched to the limb mode again, engine does not respond to the gas panel, the ESC OFF light is illuminated. I needed to restart the car about 15 times to drive about 15 miles. Few times it drove just 10 feet or so. It is really dangerous to drive it. Last time (i.e. about one year ago) they replaced the TPS. I wonder wether it broke again or wether they did not fix the problem back then and we were just lucky it did not surface for such a long time.....
  • jirkajirka Posts: 15
    The same codes again: P2106, P1295, P2135. Today the car has worked perfectly. They say it could have been caused by the rain (it was raining yesterday). At least they acknowledged it should not happen. Not sure if it is related, but when the car is cold the engine runs unevenly for few minutes.

    Unfortunately, I am out of the country, so I cannot use the warranty. If I knew I would have so many problems with it, I would have never bought it.
  • airmamaairmama Posts: 2
    I had a same problem with our 2006 Kia Sedona at about 71,000 miles.
    - The Check Engine and ESC-OFF lights turns on.
    - The engine continues to run but nothing happens when you push the accelerator pedal.
    - Turning the engine off and the restarting fixed the problems temporarily.
    - However, I can feel the acceleration power loss.
    - When I checked the engine malfunction signal at autozone, it dispalyed P1295, P2106, P2135.

    Real problem is tha I already passed factory warrant miles, ...
    All that I have is 3 month powertrain warranty program (engine, transmission, drive axle). I wonder if this malfunction can be covered by this warranty.
    How much will it cost and if it happens again dealership would fix it without charge?
  • jirkajirka Posts: 15
    If I remember it right, the cost was about $450. According to this thread at kia-forums, they should change TPS and update the software.
  • airmamaairmama Posts: 2
    kia dealership said $97 for inspection only. so total might be plus parts.
    I don't think powertrain warrant can cover software change
    but how about TPS change? (somebody said it's for TSB, TPS, APS or accel position sensor)

    Also I can ask to fix it without charge if same malfunction comes on again after fix?
  • honza78honza78 Posts: 1
    Does it ever happen when you travel up and then down a hill? Sometimes when it rains? If so check the wire going to the crank shaft sensor - the wire which "hugs" the right cover of the right cam shafts ( connected to front cover ). That wire is secured to the block by o'dell clamp and the way the sensor communicates with the Ecm is by resistance - I have repaired 4 Sedonas where the o'dell clamp was tightened too tight and with the heat from the block it just simply melts/crimps the wires together not delivering the resistance it needs - take that o'dell clamp of the block and the wire itself - repair wirring (try not to shorten the wire because if the wire is too short the Ecm will recognize it as a short) - fasten o'dell clamp back on the block and just zip tie the wire to the o'dell clamp but not too tight or too loose where it rubs. Good luck
  • artrhurartrhur Posts: 1
    My Kia Sedona keeps stalling when I'm driving. I will be stopped at a light and when I go to accelerate the van will shut down. I have to put the car back in Park and restart it and go on my way. Sometimes I will be on the highway the van will stall for a bit with the engine appearing then accelerate like nothing happened. I have taken it to Kia and they ran there reports show nothing no codes. They said it might be bad gas. OK, whatever! This morning I went to drop off my son, and the van shut off on me twice. I barely made it home. I called Kia telling them my problem again they said the can't see the van till Monday. Please I need some answers on this matter. This van is to dangerous to drive with the family! :(
  • Hi Arthur,

    I'm answering because you might have the same thing i had; but not sure. you should have been able to see my fix through the thread. ( have a Sedona 2005 LX, 110,000 miles.


    It never seemed dangerous, just inconvenient as it would have to be babied to get it back home. sometimes stalling or near stall several times before getting home. If i would just sit on the side of the road for 15 minutes...long enough for the engine to cool off some; most of the time it ran fine; unless i got back in to bumper-to-bumper traffic.

    Same symptoms of: NO CODES, and the garage couldn't replicate the problem, no matter what they did.

    My seems! : During this time, i figured that i needed to change the timing belt which was overdue by 50,000 miles, and the spark plugs changed, which were 10,000 overdue. And i had an Injector Flush. Actually flushed, not an additive, and, after the garage called the california kia tech help, they were advised that a service bulletin for "high heat" stalling named the fix as changing the TPS (Throttle Body Position Sensor). The mechanic couldn't figure out why that would be the fix. But he changed it at my request.

    To-Date: I've been sitting in a lot of traffic (in Philadelphia) since that work was done, and not once has it stalled or sputtered, etc. IT 'SEEMS' THAT ONE OF THE THINGS THAT THEY CHANGED WORKED...AND SUPPOSEDLY IT WAS THE TPS.

    Wish i could be more certain, but it fits the service bulletin symptoms, and the symptoms stopped when they followed the service repair recommendation (tps). So, I would go with that first and see where it leads.

    Hope it helps,

  • My van stops running while I was driving and wihle I was idling. I try to restart it and it wont trun over. We replaced the battery and thought that was the trick. It didnt do it. I was at church today and I went to drive it out of the parking spot and it just stopped running. The radio, lights and all that worked. But when I went to turn it on to start it, it just clicked and clicked and clicked. It isnt the alternater...any ideas? I had to leave it at church. I went back to start it and it started and then just shut off again. I need some help!!! Soon to be single mom of 3 kids and I dont need my van not working!!! HELP!
  • 88kevin88kevin Posts: 1
    hi i see it has been a long while since you posted your problem with your kia sedona not starting---if i were to post my problem it would b word for word thwe same as your problem ----ummm just wondering if you had figured out what the problem was?????????? please help my van did the same crap and i;m told that electrical is not covered in their 10yr100000mile warranty so i just been dealing with the crap--don't have the extra $$$ to let them experiment with if i can pinpoint the problem i can tell them exactly what i want fixed instead of trying 1000 different things!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! PLEASE HELP
  • At the time that they were trying to fix this problem for the 4th time; I was already at about 110,000 miles and needed to get the timing belt changed also, as well as the sparkplugs. However, the manager of the Kia service dept. had called the California help line (not sure what that was), and they said that a Kia Service bulletin for "High Heat/Stalling" had been issued and that the fix was the TSP (Throttle-Body Position Sensor). So, Here's what I had done during that service appt.

    Timing Belt: Changed
    Spark Pluges: changed
    injector system: flush
    Throttle-Body Position Sensor: Changed

    I haven't had any further problems, even in heavy traffic and high heat, since that time. I assume it was the TSP that did the trick.

    Hope this helps.

  • Well almost a year later and a similar but worse problem has occurred. Van has been idling irratically for a month or so now, once you drive it, it appears to be ok but today it lost power immediately after pulling away from the driveway. Fully depressed gas pedal did nothing. Pulled it over and plaecd in park, and engine ran as if it was missing on several cylinders. Ran this way for two minutes than idled again, but still had no power when gas pedal depressed. This van is a death trap, my children will not be going in this vehicle. By the way this is now the third time that my 40,000 mile vehicle has had this occur, first was at 15,000 miles. This is totally unacceptable. Anyone have similar problems and more importantly a solution?? thanks in advance
  • Hi, I have a 2002 Kia Sedona with 110,000 miles, we bought it new I have really liked the vehicle. Recently it has begun intermittently not starting. An hour later or so I try it and it will start. A couple of times it has just stalled out when driving. I had it brought in by AAA to a mechanic who kept it for a week and could not find anything. No codes are shown. I saw a couple of post of Throttle Body Position Sensor, and wondered if this sounded like something caused by a faulty one. The mechanic did check the fuel pressure and it was good. Any help would be appreciated. I am afraid to drive it, but am afraid even if I take it to a Kia dealer they will not be able to replicate the problem. Thanks again.
  • tekkatekka Posts: 3
    Hi, 2005 kia sedona, and I have same problem started last month, replaced the battery, that's what I thought, do I need to change the junction box, or take it a part and find some loos parts( relays) repair and put back, If I need to put anew junction box, will you help me where to find it?

    thanks to all
  • tekkatekka Posts: 3
    Please, Any one can help me, I have the same starting problem, starter will not turn over, I Installed new battery, problem still, some times will start when I jump it and other times not, I do not know about the IPM solution, where is that located and where to by it, my van 88k and it is out of warranty.

    Thanks to all
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