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Chevrolet Tahoe Electrical Problems



  • t_text_tex Posts: 25
    We had this problem and threw a bunch of money at the problem and it was eventually fixed but we probably got somewhat taken (bunch of parts replaced). I've kept up with the posts that have had similar problems and it seems like it is always related to bad grounding. This could be at the battery, at wherever the main ground is on the engine, or at the megafuse on the passenger side of the firewall. I would definitely make sure all your grounds are clean and tight before I threw any big money at it.
  • jchayesjchayes Posts: 4
    The problems I have with my 2007 XLT is just a dead car situation. It appears to happen once a year and right before we leave for spring break. Two weeks ago it happened again. I opened up the hood and removed both battery cables and connected them together for about a minute. I have heard this acts like a system re-boot. Put cables back on the battery and the truck started right up. Guess I am good for another year.

    To the Chevy employees watching. Please do not respond and tell me you are happy I have found a fix or that it is great the car is working again. This is not a fix to a problem that is serious and causes all of us grief.

    Hope this helps others avoid the dealership or local shop.
  • rokforrokfor Posts: 4
    So the ground was the issue? How long has it been since you've had any issues with it? I guess i'll try adding a couple more ground wires.

    Another thing I've noticed is that a lot of us are in Texas, so I was thinking it could be something getting too hot, which could be ground/wire related.

    Thanks for the input!
  • So I had started the route of trying to weave through GM's Customer Service tangled web, and one of their reps contacted me regarding the issues I had brought up in a forum regarding some issues I was dealing with.. After trying to to go through a dealer, then with a district specialist and even his supervisor I maintained contact with a rep (Louis) from this forum.. After talking with the supervisor, I tried to get further information from Louis for continued pursuit and wasn't getting any response... Today I tried to email him and he no longer has an account to email to??? Has GM decided Customer Service matters so little to them that they closed that department down and let them all go???? Guess since the government bailed them out, they don't need to worry about customer satisfaction (or safety) anymore...
  • jchayesjchayes Posts: 4
    It has been a few weeks since my latest issue then a year before that. I am in northern Nevada where it is cold in the winter so no correlation to heat.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    Hi burned_twice,

    I'm sorry that you have not received a response. We recently made a few changes and Crystal and Jackie are now monitoring this forum. I would be happy to take a look into this for you. Can you send me an email with your full name, and Vehicle Identification number please so I can look up your case and provide you with an update? Look forward to hearing from you:-). My email address is "attn Crystal" in the subject line.

    Crystal L - GM Customer Care
  • dalemddalemd Posts: 1
    My 2003 Tahoe has recently been experiencing several electrical issues. It sporadically needs to be jump started even after normal use and no lights left on or doors open, and door locks started having a mind of their own. I just replaced the 4-year-old battery but now the door locks are on a rampage! They lock and unlock in different sequences, sometimes randomly while parked, and the radio wont turn on (as though its security setting has been activated). I'm also getting a very rough idle when the A/C turns off and on. I've had two shops check voltages and everything comes up clean between the battery and alternator. Is there some kind of system reset that can fix all this? My hoe is a mess!
  • shelftexshelftex Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2008 Tahoe last week and I am already experiencing electrical issues. I had my husband disconnect the battery cable and replace them, which fixed the problem, temporarily from the sounds of it. Why is it that GM cannot figure out the problem with this??? This is a serious problem with vehicles shutting off while driving, not starting up, locks trapping people inside...these are not minor issues and it is obviously a rampant problem. It took me 5 minutes to find numerous sites complaining of the same issues. What is GM doing about it?
  • jthom4jthom4 Posts: 1
    This morning was the THIRD TIME THIS YEAR that I've had electrical issues come up with my 2009 Tahoe. The first two times, the car died completelty. The first time, I was told it was due to getting new tires and the tire people not resetting the sensors correctly. The second time, I was told I needed a new battery.

    This morning AS I WAS DRIVING TO WORK, the dash flickered and the "stabilitrak off" sign lit up. A few minutes later, the same thing happened, along with the seat belt sign flashing on as though I was not wearing my belt when in fact I was. Thankfully I made it to work, popped open the hood - keep in mind that I am 6 months pregnant - checked the battery for any leaks, loose connections, etc. and didn't find a thing. I didn't lock all the doors so that I can get in later just in case the thing dies while I'm in the office. Based on what I've read from others on this forum, disconnecting and reconnecting the battery could be a temporary fix. Guess I'll try that during my lunch break....

    My husband and I bought this car thinking we'd get a safe auto for our growing family, and so far, that decision has been a big mistake. I haven't even delivered yet, and already have had to call AAA twice in the last six months to help me out bc the dealership doesn't know what the H to do.

    I dread to imagine what will happen after my son is finally here in three months and I'm driving with him in the car when the car dies!! Hopefully we won't be trapped inside bc the doors won't unlock!
  • fixmycar13fixmycar13 Posts: 4
    I feel for you. I still have my 2003 suburban. I spent 3800 bucks fixing it up. New water pump, new brakes, fuel filter etc... Now, the weird thing is that I believe now my fuel pump was going out sporadically and what I thought was an electrical problem was really my fuel pump going out. My stereo hums with the transmission now and I have to bang the console to get it to shut up. I'm sorry but go and get a Honda Pilot. When I tried trading in my suburban, they were only going to give me 4000 bucks so I kept it. Honda rocks, Chevy sucks unless you have the time and money to keep taking it in to get fixed. Cut your losses and get out of that truck as fast as you can without losing your shirt. I have 4 boys and it served it's purpose but at a dear cost.
  • postalqt37postalqt37 Posts: 3
    Hi..last Thursday my truck just turned off while driving it at a high rate of speed..could barely turn it to get off highway since it was in manual mode..Friday we replaced the battery and was told it could be an alternator problem still even though the diagnostics test said it was the battery..didn't drive it at all Saturday and Sunday it had no electricity at screen..tow truck came to jump me and it worked and he said the test he did says it shouldn't be the alternator either..haven't had any issues until now!!! Scared to drive it!!
  • fixmycar13fixmycar13 Posts: 4
    It may be the fuel pump. Same thing happened to me. One we replaced by the fuel pump, we never had the problem again.
  • rokforrokfor Posts: 4
    edited May 2013
    If your fuel pump goes bad, you will still have power, it just won't crank.
  • burned_twiceburned_twice Posts: 5
    edited May 2013
    Actually if the fuel pump goes, it will crank... Crank and crank and crank, but won't start... I've been through 2 fuel pump replacements... But a bad fuel pump wont get you the symptoms of the screen blacking out... That would only be something in the electrical system.. I'd be checking the ground connections. When they're flaky, can cause even the most unfathomable of symptoms..
  • qdurrettqdurrett Posts: 2
    My wife and I own a 2011 Tahoe ltz 2wd with the 5.3 with 73,000 miles with no previous owners. For the past few months my wife has stated there is a problem with the vehicle flickering the door locks, displaying msg (blind side alert) then a check engine light comes on for about 1x second, then the problem is corrected, the check engine light goes off and the vehicle is normal again. She drives 56 miles one way to work and is not uncommon for this to happen 2 or 3 times during that drive.

    I obviously concerned for her safety, I drove the vehicle and tried to get the vehicle to do the same for me and it did not. The next day, she took the suv to work and in the middle of an intersection the truck shut down on her, all lights on the dash lit up, the locks flickered, blind side alert msg as well as having a check engine light. While in that intersection she panicked, turned the truck off and started it again to get out of the intersection. She called me and I asked if the check engine light was still on, with her reply, "no." just in case the computer logged it, I had her push the onstar button and had them do a diagnostic on the vehicle not 2 minutes after the occurrence, and for them to tell me nothing was wrong with the tahoe.

    The next day, we noticed our dash was cracked and and was going to have that replaced on some dealer warranty funded programmed and I advised them of the problem. The service person looked at me as if I was stupid, mind you I know my way around under a hood pretty well.

    After having the new dash installed and picking up my tahoe, the service manager stated, "we found a misfire, we cleared it out and "reprogrammed" the computer". So to me, means they didn't find crap, and he told me that to appease me.

    On my way home the tahoe, finally messed up with me in the vehicle. This time at 60mph down the road the truck started to feel rough and shake, the locks flipped on and off, blind side zone alert msg, then the truck hick up, the transmission went bang (like a neutral drop feeling) the check engine light came on, then a half of a second later the truck was running fine. I watched the voltage gauge fluctuate from 10 volts to 18 volts back to 10 then back to 18. Fearing I was going to blow or cook the battery I stopped the vehicle and turned it off. I lifted the hood and saw miner corrosion on the positive lead.

    I started the truck back up and found the truck to running normal but I stopped and the nearest O'riely's Auto parts store and picked up a new battery. I got home and replaced the battery and cleaned tightened all leads.

    Yesterday the Tahoe still is doing the same thing, its been in the shop 2 times now with nothing fixed. Its the same almost every time. No check engine light.


    truck begins to idle rough or shake depending if you are stopped or traveling.
    locks engage then disengage
    blind side alert flashes across the instrument cluster
    if driving (a pop under the carriage) like a neutral drop
    check engine light for 1-2 seconds
    the volt gauge fluctuates from 10 to 18 volts
    then the truck runs fine.

    I have had a Denali, Yukon, and now this Problem Tahoe... not happy!!
  • spritemanspriteman Posts: 25

    There are a bunch of posts with this same problem in this forum. I've read most of them but probably not all. A lot of the folks have done a great deal of maintenance from changing out the battery like you to replacing the whole engine - that's a lot of dollars.

    The post that interested me was someone who had read somewhere else about a ground being corroded on the back of the engine. They replaced it and the problem cleared.

    I would recommend to you to do a search on this forum and get a feel for the different solutions and non-solutions that people have tried. It's definitely more than just a one-off problem you're having.

    Just one guys opinion.

  • qdurrettqdurrett Posts: 2
    I saw that about the yellow and black wire near the passenger back side of the motor. I have tried to locate that wire but am not able to. just curious if someone might be able to email me a snap shot of exactly where. I have been under and on top looking for it. Not sure if the year difference in the vehicle makes a difference.
  • qdurrett - I'm having exactly the issues you are having (2009 Tahoe Z71) and wanted to note that this is the first time I've read someone having the "if driving (a pop under the carriage) like a neutral drop" issue like I am. When I let my foot off the accelerator at around 35mph, as the vehicle starts to slow, it pops/rattles the drivetrain a few times. I also have an issue when coming to a stop where the rpm's ramp up and try to push the vehicle forward while I'm on the brake. I previously had the no start issue but cut the negative battery cable off and replaced it with an aftermarket and it's never had that problem again. I do still have the previously mentioned problems though along with...
    --Engine noise through speakers (all factory radio/Nav)
    --Radio power/display will cut on and off while driving and stability trac dash light and check engine light will flash on and off and the same time
    --Sometimes the locks will cycle when it goes haywire but that's maybe 20% of the time.
    I am working on replacing all my positive and negative cables with new grounds and connections to see if that repairs it. I'm just amazed at how many people are having these issues and there doesn't seem to be any TSB's or any urgency on GM's part to get a handle on it, especially when this should be considered a safety issue from all the stories I've read.
  • I had the same problem with my 2000 tahoe
    i changed the battery and multiple fuses come to
    find out it was the ground wire i had it replaced and
    wham all set. Try that it only cost me $40 and the truck
    sat for a month. Now i have a new problem it won't start
    but it is trying to turn over not like before where nothing
    worked except the interior lights. I changed the fuses but
    no good i do here the fued pump kick in but it takes a few
    seconds not sure if that's normal or not. Someone else said
    they had simular problems and it was the onstar module that
    kept the truck from starting. So i'm going to look into that.
    Let me know how it goes.
  • I took it to the dealer and he knew exactly what I was talking door locks going off and on while driving for no vehicle stopping while driving..turns out they replaced the battery cables which cost me $500 and said Chevy will not put out a recall to replace them since there probably aren't enough vehicles affected. I say [non-permissible content removed] since it was a safety issue while I was driving on the highway at a very high rate of speed and it just stopped and I had to physically steer the wheel as hard as I could just to get it off the road and luckily nobody was behind me when it stopped!!!
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