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Isuzu Axiom Maintenance and Repair



  • Wow, I'm the slowest typer in the world and spent hours writing post #274 and saw only half of it submitted, well it's getting late and I'll try to submit the rest later.

    forget it , i'll do most of it now.

    Chrome tubes.. I have the Manik chrome tubes brought from an online store way back when. I also have a chrome aftermarket roofrack made by Dyno..something, also brought from an online store many years ago. It's excellent, still looks good after all this time and looks better than the factory one, which I thought looks kind of odd. The rack is rated for 150lbs max. But I'm pretty sure I surpassed that a couple of times with the hard shell cargo carrier I brought from sears.

    It is really late, and I did anwer walk the walk2 question about the brakes but as you can see it was cut off. I didn't know we had a space limit and I went on and on and on. But I promise I'll finish it up again later.

    good night or in my case good morning it's almost 4:30 in the morning here.
  • to get back to walk the walk2 about brakes. This goes for any car or truck out there, but it did happen on the Ascender and not the Axiom.

    Sometimes aftermarket manufacturers get the dimensions wrong on the equipment as in the case with the Axiom drums. The same is true for the Ascender brakes. The overall length of the brakes were to long and causing the brake pads to essentially get stuck in the caliper. This I found across many different brands.

    If the brake pads fit tight into the caliper, the pistons will have a very hard time pushing the pads into the rotor and this will cause uneven brake wear, grinding noises, squealing and the like. There has to be a little play in the brake pads to allow movement. Since the amount of length were taking about is minimal to get a free moving brake pad, I just used a file to file down the lips of the brake if you will (the metal tip at the very end of the brake pads) a couple of millimetrs until the pads were able to move freely. TA DA...the fix worked perfectly. No more strange noises and no uneven brake wear.

    Also do't forget to put the tacky stuff at the back of the brake pads. I have a bottle of the stuff but could not read the name but I believe it was made by permatex.

    Also, for brake bleeding, I use the Motive products brake bleeder. I think I got from or .net. It is truly a one man operation bleeder set and have changed my brake fluid on the 2 year schecule I follow. It can get messy at times trying to get a perfect seal but it is worth it compared to what the charge in a garage.

    well this has been your Gm trade secret from Eric Strommer....LOL (the guy from AOL that tells you how to fix things around the house)

    Well this has been your Isuzu trade secrets from Axiom068. I hope everyone can use the info I put in here and make your maintenence of your trucks a little bit better and a little bit easier.

    P.S. I plan to keep my truck until the wheels litterally fall off. Brought new and will keep for life.
  • Regarding Rust and corrosion: I have been using Corroseal Rust Converter. If your rust isn't coming off in big flakes or if it isn't really thick Corroseal works really well. It reacts with the rust and forms a surface like a hard clear varnish. And you can spray paint or primer right over it. You can spray it on with an undercoating gun or an engine cleaner sprayer. I'd pressure wash underneath first. I came across this stuff being used on steel boats on salt water. This not an undercoating material. Go to Try typing in NORUST web code in Google check out and you might get a 15% discount.

    The thump and engine click: I had the same thump and started greasing the U joints on the drive shaft (didn't even know they were there) also squirting some dry lube into the spline shaft at the back of the transmission. Thump gone.

    Engine noise I believe is a sticky lifter. Not a problem on my 2002 Axiom (so far) but a reoccurring problem on my Trooper V6 Cylinder. I'd warm the engine up and take the Air tube off the air cleaner, then heavily spray Marvel Mystery Oil into the throttle body till the engine runs a little rough and smokes like hell. Ticking would go away for quite a while.

    Welcome and Best Regards
  • corroseal sounds like it would do the job. I'm not sure if it's diluted or concentrate strength. When using it do you need to mix it with water. The Gallon is $49.99 and wondering if a smaller size would suffice.

    Do you know if they sell similar stuff at any specialty stores or autopart stores?
  • You use it undiluted and it sprays on a little snotty. However you can clean up with water. If you spend the time trying to get it into all the crevices you will consume at lest 2/3rds of the gallon. There may be similar products. I'd search under the key words - Rust Converter.

  • Well I put the Hitch on this weekend and unlike the instructions it takes more than 30 minutes to install. There is one bolt--the last bolt-- that has to be "fishwired" through the frame to get to a pre-drilled bolt hole.

    For that to happen, to get access to a space big enough to enter the bolt in there was a couple of choices:

    1. remove rear bumper frome the frame---I can't see myself doing that. It looks rusty down there and I don't want to start breaking bolts and not get the bumper to align again.

    2. Get that section Tack welded-- this is a very strong possibility.

    3. leave said bolt off--- Hey how much damage can leaving one bolt off do?
    (author can see himself driving down the road and the trailer passing him)

    Conclusion, Tack welding it is!!!

    I also check what effect it would have on the car if the suspension 30Amp circuit breaker was removed for the shock upgrade.

    I used both computers and found nothing. The shock light even lights up in the dash when turning on the car and automatically goes off as it should. Does this happen to everybody that did the upgrade, everything seems normal?

    This might be a ghost system that isuzu did to get the owners to buy $180 a piece shocks.

    I checked the diagrams and could not find no reason not to remove it. Though it is connected to the ABS system , there are no fault lights to speak of.

    It looks like a done deal, I'm going to do the upgrade. But am wondering if the KYB shocks would be better than the Sensatrac shocks, any thoughts? let me know, thanks.
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Posts: 140
    edited October 2010
    I can't speak to the hitch installation - 'cept to say after reading your posting I am damn glad I paid U-Haul to do mine!

    As for the shocks - I was the 2nd one to ditch the sproingy, sproingy ISS system and go with manual shocks (like on Troopers and Rodeos). I posted the details of that install, which was also pretty grueling physically. I bought the afore-mentioned Monroe shocks after much investigation with Monroe Tech Support, as Bert could not recall the exact model numbers he had used. Since then others have done the Monroe switcheroo. As for me, I have used it like this for about 18 months with no problems whatsoever. In that time, I have had to use ABS brakes several times with no issues.

    However, I don't wanna sound like the final word on this - because if the specific model of Monroe shocks fit and worked fine for us, then the KYBs would probably work if they had a cross referenced exact fit match. But, you are boldly going where no one has gone before with that brand, so you're on your own.

    I would just suggest you take it to a Shocks place unless you really enjoy doing shocks, and if that is the case, then get some burly guy named Billy Bob with lots of extra upper body mass to help you remove the old ones. It's a bear.
  • Should check to see if U-haul put all the bolts in ?....HAHA

    If I let some shop do it, what kind of backyard mechanic would I know...we're built for punishment....stress...cursing...throwing tools.....

    with --sproingy-- do you mean excessive bouncing...because I get a rough and jarring ride when going over bumps in the roadway. But the handling is good, better than a regular truck.
  • Just thought of the float pins,,(I call them).. The pins can sometimes get stuck in the caliper housing and will cause the support bracket for the caliper to rub up against the rotor.

    Float pins= the 2 bolts that you remove to get the caliper off. The ones with the rubber boot on. Whack 'em a couple of times with a rubber mallet. most times they'll free up. But other times there frozen in then you would need to get new ones. If they do free up, pull them off and re-lube and replace.
  • Well with all the talk about corrosion here, I did a little checking.
    On the Autoblog it states that Isuzu will issue a recall for corrosion on the rear suspension lower link only. Isuzu owners can call 1-800-255-6727 before the official notification to owners is started.

    I read the press release and it only includes certain cold climate states, New York, being one of them. This came from an NHTSA campaign. The campaign #'s are 10V436000, PE09030,EA09018.

    The press release mentions to go to isuzu dealers for the fix, (note: replacement was never mentioned, just installation of a support bracket), Has anyone seen an isuzu dealer. All the one's I know of are no longer servicing isuzu products. The nearest one to me is about 50 miles away. I'm concerned once I drop the car off what will I do after that. Rent a car to get back home? Have a friend drive and pick me up? What will happen indeed.


    To get back to the suspension upgrade to regular shocks (LOL) and to kiss the ISS system good-bye, I chose to stay true with the site and use the monroe Sensa trac shocks instead of the KYB's.

    Well all in all KYB's generally are regarded as giving a stiffer ride than the Monroes. But Since this was Shocktober month at monroe, (BUY 3 Get 1 free) and I found the shocks at for $33.79 each for the front and rear, I based my decision completely on the rebate and price of the shocks. The cheapest I found for the KYB's was on Amazon they were $49.96 and $53.00 and no rebates, but they did have free shipping.

    I checked the usual sites and stores pepboys, autozone, advanced auto and several online sites and these were the cheapest around.

    I'll let you guys know when I put them in and how it went.
  • Regarding the Shoctober Rebate. Be sure to keep the required box ends proof of purchase, reciept, and the proper rebate form. I had to dumpster dive to retrieve my box ends.
  • Thanks Jedmustang, I'll be sure to keep the box ends.

    I just received the shocks today. The 37159's for the front were packed in the original box with all the parts, the box appears to be sealed by the manufacturer. But what caught my eye was that both shocks were fully extended without the plastic piece that holds them together. I thought it was bad to fully extend the shocks before installation.

    The 37160's had the plastic piece that holds them together and was packaged the same way as the 37159's.

    For everyone that did the replacement of shocks did the 37159's come fully extended? Please, let me know.
  • It's been 18 months since I did the swap, so I don't recall what they looked like or whether they were extended or not. I do recall that the rear ones had longer threaded rods, but you probably can know that already.
  • OK, I figured I'd check the project out before actually getting started. I noticed the original bushings on the front shocks are 4 times the size of the bushings on the monroe's.

    I'm assuming that evryone put the new smaller bushings on that came with the monroe shocks, am I right?

    Also the placement of the bushing and washers. Did you guys put the bushings and washers back in the same exact order. Washer-Bushing- Washer on top of the mounting point and another set of Washer-Bushing-Washer underneath the mounting point (i.e., hole where the shock stem goes through).

    It appears if I was to stay with the original mounting sequence, I would have to reuse the current washers which appear to be 4 times the size of the bushing that came with it.

    And if anybody wants to be relly,really, really nice--Please send pictures of one completed front shock and one completed rear shock to my e-mail address--which is-

    This would be most appreciated a 1000 times over.
  • I called monroe and they said the front shocks are packaged fully extended. I guess it was my misconception that you couldn't fully extend the shock before installation.

    But the rear shocks are packaged with the plastic strip holding them together.
  • I have an axiom, I just picked up.I have a lighting issue. The main dome light works, however, the map lights and lights in the cosmetic mirrors are dead. I checked all of the fuses. I'm puzzled. Please help!!??
  • Try turning the head lights on first.

  • And of course the bulbs might be burned out.
  • Well with the estimates of $290 for shock replacement mentioned herein. I went around Staten Island to find a cheaper price. Though I didn't find a super way cheaper price, the lowest was $225, but the shop did not have OxyAcetylene torches and I think would of charged way more to get the bolts off.

    So, in the interest of all backyard mechanics I thought that was way too much to replace and remove 2 bolts and 6nuts. So I did the only viable and cost effective solution to me. I did the job myself.

    Every nut and bolt was completely rusted. I used copious amounts of PB Blaster, WD-40, and liquid wrench. The Top nuts of the Shocks would not come loose. The
    bottom bolts of the front shocks were seized onto the metal sleeve and would not come loose even though the nuts came off with out a problem. I gave plenty of time for each penetrant to work it's magic, alas no magic was had.

    I pulled out my grinder and had to cut the top of each and every shock absorber. The rear shocks were the easiest to cut. I used a 4 1/2" grinder with a metal cut off wheel. No big problem fairly easy. But the fronts were a different story.

    Those 2 bolts in the front were the worst I have ever seen. Even with the nuts off the bolts would not come off as the metal sleeve for the shock absorber fused to the bolt. I cut the bolt head off and the tail end of the bolt off hoping to pry the shock out of the bracket, a good idea as far as I was concerned. While prying away one side of the shock absorber bracket broke and out came the shock absorber. This I had to get rewelded on for $120. That was the passenger side.

    For the drivers side I knew now I had to be more careful, instead of using such strong man tactics I had to use a more surgical approach. I cut the top off with the 4 1/2 grinder. This was not a problem. But the bottom bolt had to be cut from inside the bracket as the last idea didn't work. In order to get to the area that needed to be cut I had to bring out the big 7" grinder and cut off wheel and cut the bottom of the shock absorber completely off. This made a big mess as oil from the shock was spewing everywhere. then after burning the bushing off with the torch gotten at the home depot as part of a soldering kit. I was able to move the bottom eyelet of the shock back and forth so I could get the 4 1/2" grinder in there to make the 2 cuts. This was successful. After the 2 cuts were made the head and tail of the bolt popped off easily enough and the shock was replaced.

    With all 4 shocks changed I decided to hit some bumps and see what happens. Over the little bumps the shocks were indistinguishable from the electronic shocks but over the big bumps and pot hole size holes that New York is famous for the truck did not bottom out like before and was not as jarring. Cornering seems to be OK but was better with the electronic shocks, The ride on highway roads was smoother than the electronic shocks andis exactly what I had hoped for.

    All in all, this project is a heavy duty project and requires alot of patience and time. It most certainly was easier to pay the shop to do it. But if your like me and like to do things yourself and covet the title "Backyard Mechanic" then this project is right up your alley.

    I would like to thank everyone for the help I received, it was greatly appreciated and was a wonderful idea.
  • I have a 2004 Isuzu Axiom with 65K miles that has frequent hesitations while I just cruzing down the road, mostly in the 50 -60 MPH range. Slight but very noticable. Any ideas out there would be very welcomed.
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Posts: 71
    No messages since 3/3???????? either we are dieing off or our Axioms are.

    Last month 2002 Axiom Reduced Power light went off and engine lost almost all power. Shut off and waited for a minute then restarted and drove off fine.

    Anyone know what some of the reasons are for this happening?

    Cleaned out the PCV valve, ran a few bottles of Sea Foam through the gas and 1/2 bottle in the crank case. Now about 4K miles since the reduced power problem and everything seems OK. Don't really believe in liquid additive solutions but what the heck I gave it a try.

    Regards All
  • axiom068axiom068 Posts: 16
    nope we're still here. It's just that the Axiom is running really good with no problems. I have no ideas for your situation excepr clogged fuel injectors.

    good luck and keep us posted on the problem
  • I have a '02 Axiom. When braking, the slower the vehicle gets the more it feels like it is grabbing then missing, almost a jerking motion. Any ideas?

    Also, my clock doesn't work- it won't set and the compass works when I start it, but once past about 15mph, it stops working. Any ideas?
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Posts: 71
    well the brake pulsing sounds like worn and slightly warped rotors. The
    rotors just don't last long on the Axiom unless you buy drilled/ventilated
    rotors and they're too expensive anyway. Clock and compass must be a fault
    to the antenna somewhere. They are both set by satellite signal. Don't
    know where to look so i can't help except to do a web search or someone with
    the whole manual out there.

  • a9x2a9x2 Posts: 25
    Drilled and slotted are NOT that expensive. Found rotors and pads for $120 on ebay, DRILLED AND SLOTTED. That was my 2nd brake job on the AX in Feb and it was actually cheaper than goin the conventional.
  • a9x2a9x2 Posts: 25
    I have the same issue. You need a new GPS Sensor(entire new screen) and the part is around $900 and labor is around $250. These are rates from City Isuzu, perhaps YMMV?
  • a9x2a9x2 Posts: 25
    MY CE light is goin on and off for about 3 months. Code read for bad EGR valve. Had it replace around when it came on but the light never went off. Dealer says they can't reset compt b/c they lost the Isuzu "Resetter" but still, shouldn't it have reset by now? I'm worried that it may be something other than the EGR. And I may not know if there really is a problem w/ my engine.
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Posts: 71
    $120 pads and rotors on all four wheels? Yeah that's cheap, but if only the front then then an OK price. Either way I'd like to know if you get over 60K on them.
  • a9x2a9x2 Posts: 25
    edited May 2011
    Yes, I'm hoping they last that long thats about what the last ones did. Well I'm only about 9k into them so far so good :) Looked at my brake job from 09', at Firestone $149.99 for regular ones labor included. At the dealer --drilled and slotted, taxes $190 (lied in my last post, forgot to add labor cost). These rotors shouldn't warp moreover saving more money in the long run. These prices are for front only. I have to dig up the 09' recipt for the rear and the dealer didn't mention needing new ones this year so I didn't either ;) Also, do you own an ax b/c it doesn't have disc all wround :confuse:
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Posts: 71
    My 2002 Axiom - AWD has disks all around and none of them seem to last too long. At least on the front. I wish there was some way to transfer a slightly higher percentage of braking to the rear brakes. Axiom's brakes have always been low performance even with new pads and rotors. I pull a 5 X 8 trailer and a trailer with a portable welder on it and both have electric brakes. When I'm pulling them I have better stopping power - go figure, huh? Warping has never been a problem for me, just accelerated wear on the front disks.

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