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Isuzu Axiom Maintenance and Repair



  • billr9billr9 Posts: 1
    Anyone familiar with this? We bought this car for my daughter and it did this a few times while parked (Once at the dealership! Lucky for us because they are backing there commitment to fix or take the car back) but this time it happened while she was driving. Had just got off the interstate (1 1/2 hour drive) and down the road about 3 miles and it died while going around a slight corner! The Dealership we bought it from could not find the problem, sent it to another and supposedly going to a third mechanic who specializes in Isuzu's.
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Posts: 71
    2002 Axiom, 125K, rusted frame, Check engine light on, needed new muffler, front differential noisy, Tires 40%, hole cut it rear deck to free up spare tire lowering mechanism, Oxy sensors shot, All disclosed.

    $2300 on Craig's list 16 calls sold that same day. Kinda glad it's gone.

    Been real nice talking to all of you Axiom people over the years.

    Got a 2012 Ford Super Duty diesel. Off to check their forum.

    Best Regards
  • Sorry, I don't check here often anymore. I've had this happen a couple times. One fix was easy, one wasn't.
    The first time, my mechanic cleaned the throttle body. I want to say he charged me $50 or something. Fixed it right up.
    The second time I had stalling issues, the check engine light was on. It turned out to be the high-pressure fuel pump (unique to '04 model). That was $1700.
  • You might check the main wire harness where it goes from the top of the engine left side ( right as you look at itfrom under the hood). the harness sort of goes under neath the area of the left side intake manifold and when the wire get brittle you can rev the engine and as it moves it on the mounts can cause the engine to die out or even shaking the harness can cause the same thing. The wires in that portion of the loom are very hard and tite with minimal room for normal flexing. I know it has happened to some of them as they age and also rodeo models. The wires are so small that they break and trying to isolate and replace the individual wires is rarely successful. Easier to get a new harness. grabbing the wire harness and moving it may help to isolate it if it dies.
    An issue I am having on my 2002 with 85k
    I get a bit of hesitation on when I really give it the accelerator up a hill or highway passing. Have not pulled or changed plugs. never had a check engine light come on. wonder if plugs or the coils. I recall the Isuzu tech saying to take off the large air hose to the throttle body and clean it out and to also brush out one of the passages there. They mentioned a particular size of brush to use to clean that out, like a gun barrel cleaning brush. anyone have any details on this, do you have to take the throttle body apart of just the big hose that goes to it. thanks. Is there any mystery to changing the plugs myself. Have done it on regular engines but never a SOHC motor. Is there some seal the the plug goes through? thanks. Ken
  • Does anyone know of a good mechanic/shop in the Sacramento area? The check Transmission light comes on but only only in the afternoon or after about an hour or so of driving. I took it to my nornal mechanic but no codes come up when he checks with his machine. I took it to a transmission specalist, he said it was the solenoid shifter. The transmisson man replaced the shifter, the same problem started the next day. I took it to AAMCO, same result no codes came up on the machine. Like I said, it drives fine in the day (when it's cool) but in the afternoon that light comes on. It does shift hard from second to third when the light comes on but runs fine in cool weather.
  • I'm not sure anyone can help me. No one else seems to be able to help. I love my 2003 Axiom and would love to be driving it again. It has been sitting in my driveway for 8 months now, with no one any closer to fixing it. The problem is when I let off the gas it dies. The check engine light is on and sometimes low power light comes on. We've had it hooked up several times to determine the problem and have replaced everything it said was bad. O2 censor, mass air flow censor and throttle position censor. Still no change. My brother in law said it needed a new computer, so he ordered me one. We put it on but it wouldn't turn over. Excuse me, I should specify that it's a used computer.

    Yesterday we put the old computer back on and drove it to a mechanic who said he could flash the computer to the car. Wrong. They also couldn't seem to figure out what is wrong with the car. Meanwhile my husband thinks the problem is the key. It's broken and keeps falling apart. I ordered a new one but it won't be in for a few days but my first question is, do you think the key would make the car run bad like this? My thoughts is it wouldn't even start if that was the issue.

    Apparently there are not many mechanics who are willing to even work on my car. Any sugguestions?

    Oh and I should mention, the fuel pump was checked, the wiring harness was checked and the intake was checked.
  • Unfortunately in these situations you have to find a mechanic with a Tech 2 scanner with the Isuzu card. You have to look hard but hopefully you'll find one. If you don't mind paying dealer prices, go to and put your zip code in under the owners section and hopefully area dealers that are still doing maintence on isuzu's will pop up. Good Luck.
  • There are 3 basic things a car needs to run Fuel, air, and spark. I would suggest to perform a compression test on all cylinders, check all vaccum lines with a smoke machine (while you're at it check the EVAP system also), and check the spark on the spark plugs. If all else fails it could be a timing problem or a busted head gasket. In order to truly find out what's going on I suggest finding a mechanic with a Tech 2 scanner with the isuzu card. IF you place your zip code in the owners section of hopefully they'll be dealers close to you that have the right equipment. The way you are going about this situation is very costly when an hour's diagnostic fee at the dealership is probably all it needs to find the problem. I have personally taken the car to the dealers and had the diagnostics done and then taken the car out and fix it myself. It cheaper than buying a Tech 2 scanner. If you find a mechanic that uses anything other than the Tech 2 scanner with isuzu card, he would most probably only give you just the simple OBDII codes and you won't be able to see the whole picture of the vehicle. Also tell your husband the key is definitely not the issue. In addition I believe the new computer must be synced up with the car and with that you will need the Tech 2 scanner.
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Posts: 140
    edited September 2012
    I'll try to help. Still have my 2002 Axiom Service Manual (the complete service manual), which may shed some light on your tranny light problem. I will paste excerpts that are related, and then you can figure out which one applies. First thought is that your tranny is getting too hot, and I know that the tranny is cooled by the tranny line from the radiator, so maybe your radiator is not doing its job, or that line is plugged? A new radiator costs $100 uninstalled. If that turns out to be the problem - replace the tranny fluid with synthetic fluid, too, which you should have done at the 40K mark and at the 60K mark, but the manual is not clear on those points.

    A KEY POINT is whether the Tranny light comes on and STAYS on or is FLASHING:

    Here are the excerpts that may apply:

    "ATF Warning Lamp
    The ATF warning lamp will be constantly on (not flashing)
    if the transmission oil temperature is above 145C (293F)."

    "When the “CHECK TRANS” indicator is flashing, it
    indicates that a problem related to the transmission, the
    Powertrain Control Module (PCM), or the vehicle harness
    has occurred.
    The system is now operating in a “BACKUP MODE”
    where the risk of further damaging the transmission has
    been reduced. The vehicle may be shifted manually.
    If the initial problem is intermittent or seldom, switching
    the engine OFF/ON might allow normal operation again
    until the problem reoccurs.

    If, during the test drive, the “CHECK TRANS” lamp
    comes on, use the scan tool to check for trouble

    What this means is TRANNY LIGHT COMES ON STEADY (Good - tranny is too hot), and Tranny Light is FLASHING (Bad - you got problems... time to trade in your vehicle because no one works on these anymore!)

    NOTE: some auto parts stores carry a scanner you can borrow to check for DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes). This info can be used to further diagnose your problem IF THERE IS A CODE BEING GENERATED.

    If it is just the Tranny light coming on (not flashing), it sounds to me that the tranny is getting too hot. If you pull over and shut off the car for 20 minutes and restart, does the light go out? If so, you may have found the root cause and it may be 1)poor quality tranny fluid or low tranny fluid, and/or 2) a radiator that is no longer cooling your transmission.

    Repeated overheating of your transmission will lead to premature failure. So will not changing the tranny fluid, but this is Isuzu's fault for stating that there is no need to do this, in both the owners manual and the service manual.

    The 4L30E transmission is actually a good one, so if you can find a qualified tranny mechanic who knows how to work on a 4L30E, you are in luck.
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Posts: 140
    edited September 2012
    Stalling... and stalling after the vehicle has started, (at idle) not while trying to start it. Hmmm....

    My first thought was plugged main fuel filter (there is a large one at the back of the vehicle on the rear drivers side underneath the car, near the left rear wheel - it is a metal canister type filter located near the gas tank and if not already replaced, should be replaced...

    The full Isuzu Axiom service Manual has THREE mentions of stalling...

    FIRST, it mentions EGR flow. Look below where it states this (please read to the bottom where "too much EGR flow" is mentioned):

    "Linear EGR Valve
    The main element of the system is the linear EGR valve.

    The EGR valve feeds small amounts of exhaust gas back
    into the combustion chamber. The fuel/air mixture will be
    diluted and combustion temperatures reduced.

    Linear EGR Control
    The PCM monitors the EGR actual positron and adjusts
    the pintle position accordingly. The uses information from
    the following sensors to control the pintle position:
     Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor.
     Throttle position (TP) sensor.
     Mass air flow (MAF) sensor.

    Linear EGR Valve Operation and Results of Incorrect Operation
    The linear EGR valve is designed to accurately supply
    EGR to the engine independent of intake manifold
    vacuum. The valve controls EGR flow from the exhaust
    to the intake manifold through an orifice with a PCM
    controlled pintle. During operation, the PCM controls
    pintle position by monitoring the pintle position feedback
    signal. The feedback signal can be monitored with a Tech
    2 as “Actual EGR Pos.” “Actual EGR Pos.” should always
    be near the commanded EGR position (”Desired EGR
    Pos.”). If a problem with the EGR system will not allow the
    PCM to control the pintle position properly, DTC P1406
    will set. The PCM also tests for EGR flow. If incorrect flow
    is detected, DTC P0401 will set. If DTCs P0401 and/or
    P1406 are set, refer to the DTC charts.

    The linear EGR valve is usually activated under the
    following conditions:
     Warm engine operation.
     Above-idle speed.

    Too much EGR flow at idle, cruise or cold operation may
    cause any of the following conditions to occur:
     * Engine stalls after a cold start.
    * Engine stalls at idle after deceleration.
    * Vehicle surges during cruise.
    *  Rough idle.
     * DTC P0300 (misfire detected)."

    Now, these Diagnostic Trouble Codes should be detectable. You can borrow a scanner at your local AutoZone or Advanced Auto or NAPA parts store, and plug it in and check for a code, if you can get there without getting stranded.

    You can also buy an after market fuel filter for about $25.

    The manual also mentions that this problem could be caused by a plugged up PCV valve, which is an INEXPENSIVE and EASY part to replace.

    Note what it says:

    "A plugged valve or PCV hose may cause the following
     Rough idle.
     Stalling at slow idle speed.
     Oil leaks.
     Sludge in the engine.
    A leaking PCV hose would cause:
     Rough idle.
     High idle speed."


    "EVAP Emission Control System Operation
    The EVAP canister purge is controlled by a solenoid valve
    that allows the manifold vacuum to purge the canister.
    The powertrain control module (PCM) supplies a ground
    to energize the solenoid valve (purge on). The EVAP
    purge solenoid control is pulse-width modulated (PWM)
    (turned on and off several times a second). The duty
    cycle (pulse width) is determined by engine operating
    conditions including load, throttle positron, coolant
    temperature and ambient temperature. The duty cycle is
    calculated by the PCM. The output is commanded when
    the appropriate conditions have been met. These
    conditions are:

     The engine is fully warmed up.
     The engine has been running for a specified time.
     The IAT reading is above 10C (50F).

    A continuous purge condition with no purge commanded
    by the PCM will set a DTC P1441.

    Poor idle, stalling and poor driveability can be caused by:
     A malfunctioning purge solenoid.
     A damaged canister.
     Hoses that are split, cracked, or not connected


    BOTTOM LINE: This is a fixable problem... you just need to find a good mechanic, and stop using your brother in law, and that other bozo you mentioned. Ask around. There are great mechanics in every town. This is probably a simple problem that could be bad fuel filter, bad PCV valve, bad plugs, or a problem with the EGR valve, Evap cannister, OR SOME COMBINATION OF THE ABOVE, but all are easily replaced. This is FIXABLE.

    I hope this helps

    Also, if you can get the DTC codes out of your Axiom, post back here and I can look them up in the Axiom Service Manual.
  • I go to a specialty mechanic in my town, but twice I have used local Firestone auto repair stores with great success. So, if there is not a good mechanic in your area, that is one possibility. Again, ask around.
  • I recently had a problem with my Axiom 2003. it suddenly stopped working and wouldn't even crank. Can someone please help me.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    edited November 2014
    We have a "generic" no start discussion; lots of posts to plow through but you may want to skim it for ideas while waiting for posts in here. Or try Edmunds Answers.

    More details would help - mileage? Does it click when you try to start it? Was it parked overnight when it stopped working or did it stall driving down the road?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,480
    If it doesn't even crank, but your dash warning lights go on, the general order of checking things out would be:

    1. Make sure your security light isn't on
    2. Check battery connections and battery condition (or jump start)
    3. Check to see if there is voltage going to your starter solenoid when you turn the key to "start"
    4. Try starting in neutral position and/or check the neutral safety switch.

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  • fendlayfendlay Posts: 9
    edited March 2015
    I have a 04 Isuzu Axiom. I bought this vehicle at 81,000 miles and I now have 151,000 miles on it. It has treated me well until now. I am showing 3 codes for check engine light. P300,P306, and P356.
    We know that P300, and P306 are cylinder misfire/random cylinder misfire. The P356 is an Ignition Sensing Module Circuit 6 Malfunction. This is what we found out. We test the wires going to coil 6 and the green/red wire going from the coil plug to the PCM has nothing there. But when we match the wire that went from the coil to the PCM, the wire on the coil side is green/red, and the wire that we followed it from the coil to the PCM, the wire on the PCM side is yellow. I have a full car electrical schematic and it says the green/red wire runs straight to the PCM and the schematic states the whole wire is green/red???. Does the wire change? Doesn't really matter to me because I have to replace that one wire on that plug.

    Has anyone have this similar problem or am I pretty much on the ball. Mechanic and I are going to run an outside wire and see what happens?
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