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Nissan Xterra Maintenance and Repair



  • Where did you find a video on that? I also just went over 100,000 and have noticed the engine struggling a bit. I'd definitely like to check that out
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    CRC manufactures a specialty MAF sensor cleaner that might be a better bet than brake cleaner, although xtierra's use of brake cleaner worked well. (Never use brake cleaners to clean idle speed controllers, as it'll strip the teflon coating off the insides.)

    Here's a Popular Mechanics how to:
  • i went into googled and typed video- how to clean your mass air sensor. you should know that i used q-tips and they did leave some strands inside the tiny hole, had to use some tweesers to get those little strands out. i am in mexico so i dont have access to the special cleaner but will say that its better to use the mass cleaner to avoid any problems. use latex gloves since you dont want to place your hand oils on the shinny metal plate....once you take off the sensor, you will be able to see the layer of dirt on the module and specially on the small opening on the side that houses the sensors. i am not a mechanic but i would say that its a good idea to do this procedure in the morning when the engine is completely cold just as a precaussion..... you dont want to spray anything into an electrical part that is warm or hot. also read that it should be done every 6 months and it does effect your mpg when its dirty.
  • I have a 2002 Nisssan Xterra 4 cyl with about 167,ooo miles on check engine light came on so i took it to auto zone to get it read..the codes i was given were P0740 and P0328,,,when i took it to a mechanic he told me that my knock sensor need to be replaced and my tork converter valve in the transmission need to be replaced...when i looked up the p0740 code that says P0740 TCC Solenoid/Circuit that the same thing?? and another mechanic told me to fix the transmissin valve first which will make the knock sensor problem go that true?? what should i do since i am getting different answers from every mechanic...
  • i am not a mechanic but i would begin with the basics... here is what i found on the web----- P0740 code.. I been reading the site and either your able to drive sluggishly or your unable to shift... With my situation my driving and shifting was optimal. I tried to reset the engine light with my CarChip but was unsuccessful. So I dropped the Transmission Pan which had a lot of metal shavings and a clogged filter.. Cleaned it up, put in a new filter, clean magnet, along with a half quart of Trans X (a transmission fluid conditioner for seals and cleaning). Added 4 quarts of Trans Fluid.. I put my Davis CarChip back in the car to drive it with new filter and fluid.. The car is now codeless... Hope this helps someone in the future...---- so the main question is when was the last time you had your tranny fluid changed/flushed.... this might be the cause..... as for the other code.... someone said they went over a puddle and the light came on..... they believed that water was sucked into the air intake area and touched the mass sensor causing the service engine light to come on.... just some thoughts..
  • here is another thing i found on the web....I changed the solenoid, the fluid was dark brown but did not smell burned, I saw a little bit of glitter in the pan and on the solenoid but nothing major. My issue now is that the tranny seems to shift fine but the check engine light came up again, checked the code @ autozone and it is p0740 tcc circuit. It comes on as soon as I start the car, I dont even have to put it in D. What else can I be missing, I doubt it is the fluid level because if it was low there would be a delay in shifting into gears--- so i am guessing that its due to the tranny fluid needing to be changed and the filter cleaned.... remember that some mechanics will simply want to tell you that its something more serious in the tranny just to charge you more for working on the tranny... good luck .. you might want to post your problem on an xterra club website under the mechanics forums..
  • I dont know about the struggling at stop signs part, but the easiest way to increase mpg and horsepower is to get more air in and more exhaust out.
    I'd put an aftermarket "cold air" intake kit on it. This will let the engine breath better. If you dont care about noise, you can put an aftermarket muffler on it. You'll probably gain 10hp and about 4 miles to the gallon.
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    Did you actually try it? I use K&N Air Filter and there is a slight performance boost. I didn't notice it as much as I did when i used it on my Rodeo, but the engine is just a tad smoother.

    However, this kit (Cold Air intake) costs about $300 and I am just trying to research if it worth the price
  • antbantb Posts: 1
    Have you tried the process of cleaning the MAF sensor? This may increase your over all performance. As for the Cold Air intake, be aware that not all cold air kits are equal. If they look cheap in the picture, then that may be the reality. this website will sell you the NISMO unit which may be the best buy, but if you can get a copy of the install directions to see where you get the air from, then you can make an informed decision based on that. You want ideally to get the air from outside the engine compartment and some kits are designed to do that.

    Did you have any luck with the cabin filters? The owner's manual was pretty clear on how to handle the transfer of the filters. But never as you know asume that it will take 10 minutes.
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    I don't really have any performance complaints at the moment. The truck has only 20K miles and i put K&N Air filter in when i had to replace the original one. Didn't see much difference but i think the engine sounded just a little smoother (while could be a little louder).

    As far as Cold air kits - i was looking at K&N Parts as well - i trust their quality - used their air filters for 7 years now.

    Cabin filters - yeah, thanks for checking! It was a 10 min process... I don't think i even needed a screwdriver. Not quite sure why everybody wants $100+ to replace those. The filters may have been a bit chepaer, but i think i paid somewhere around $30 for a set of two (and the truck takes two).
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    Is there a benefit in using Nissan oil filters vs. Firestone brand? Dealers lately want way too much for an oil change and Firestone seem to be doing a good job for 1/3 of the price.
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    I guess everyone has an opinion on oil filters. Mine is that I stick with the OEM filters. I paid $21,300 for my Frontier (same powertrain as Xterra) and although I'm a very frugal guy, paying perhaps $3 more for a Nissan filter is worth it in my mind.

    You need to be certain that the filters you use have an anti-drainback valve like the OEM filters do. This keeps the engine oil in the line close to the valvetrain when the engine is shut off. This reduces wear upon startup. Without the valve, the engine oil drains back into the crankcase.

    A lot of guys recommend the Mobil 1 filter as being excellent, but I have no experience with them. Good luck with your choice. :)
  • steverstever Posts: 52,571
    I must be more frugal; I get Frams or NAPA or whatever is on sale for my ten year old Nissan van (~129,000 miles). I suppose I could have OEM ones delivered but otherwise it's an 8 mile drive to the dealer vs a couple of mile to NAPA or Wally World.

    There's some filter talk over in the Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2 discussion too.
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    It's not about the price of the filter - the OEM filter is $8. The problem is that Nissan charges $45 for an oil change and Firestone charges $20. They are willing to install the OEM which THEY buy from a dealer as they're not allowed to install customer's parts, but they are not willing to discount for not using their filter. The oil change would be $30 then whcih is still 1/3 cheaper then dealer's and they use better oil.

    Only one dealer in this area uses anything other than regular oil. They were not able to explain to me what exactly they use but it's not quite synthetic blend nor it's a regular oil - something in between :D Firestone uses Synthetic blend for this price.

    I'll ask for a drain valve but I would assume their filters would have that. Thanks for the suggestion!
  • YES!

    It drove me FREAKIN CRAZY..........however..........I went with Yokohoma tires & I got the tires SIPED and it helps.
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    Oh, now I see your situation. I don't use synthetic or synthetic blends, but if they're using a blend, *maybe* $45 isn't too outrageous. They're probably charging for 6 QT (the V-6 takes 5-3/8 QT) and at say $4 QT that's $24. Add in an inexpensive filter and drain plug washer and the cost is now $30. Throw in labor and environmental fees and you get near $40. Of course, this will vary around the country. If you want to do the DIY thing in your driveway, it's not too bad on the X. Like all vehicles tho, you'll end up with dirty engine oil dripping off your elbows.
  • I have a 2003 xterra which has been running great since I have had it. I took the car in for a service and told them about my problem and they checked it out and said the car was fine. Every time I turn left or right it seems like the power steering tightens up and it makes a sound. This is the first time I have lived in Cold Weather and was wondering if that might be the problem? or if I need to do something to the power steering? This all started when winter came around.
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    Sounds like a cold belt chattering when under load, which is irritating but unlikley to cause a failure. I'd be sure the belt looks good, is oil free and is properly tensioned. Be sure too that the belt sheaves don't have oil on them either. Then, be sure that your power steering fluid is up to the correct level in the bottle.
  • Can someone give me a few pointers before I cave and bring my truck to a specialist? I have a 2000 Xterra and do most of the routine maintenance myself. The 4x4 was working one day and not the next. There were no telltale signs that anything was failing. When shifting into 4x4, the light comes on saying the wheels are locked but it doesn't engage. The shift lever behaves normally (not being able to shift at a high speed, being in neutral to shift into 4 low, etc...). I suspect it might be something electrical if that is possible. Any advice would be appreciated.
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    I've had similar problem on Isuzu Rodeo that I used to have. Everything was appearing to be fine but the 4x4 wasn't really engaging. I also heard the noise coming from the front.

    It ended up being one of the axle being dislodged from the socket and even though the 4x4 was engaging the axle was not really getting locked. It was pretty dangerous too as the axle wasn't really locked in place and could have separated at any time.

    The reason for that problem was that I did a service not too far before at Midas and when didn't install some components right so the axcel slipped from the socket.
  • 2002 nissan xterra.I have a clicking sound quite loud from left front wheel when initially going forward or reverse but not while driving. Also seems worst if reversing while turning almost like wheels are locking up and I am dragging my front end.
  • I have a blown fuse affecting the dash lights and the tail lights. Lights only, maintenance and other indicators still function. Any idea which fuse and where is it?
  • I found a second fuse box under the hood above the passenger side wheel well. Tail light fuse was blown. 15 amp.
  • I have a 2005 xterra with some heating issues, at first the defrost and heater would only blow cold air. I took it to the dealer and they said there was an air bubble in the radiator causing this problem. I was hoping it was an issue for warranty which was just expiring. I did not get a flush yet but now the fan only works when turned to 4 and the AC button will only come on when the fan is on 1-3???
    Any ideas? does this sound like a costly fix?
  • becsbecs Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 and the same problem. Although I did not notice it right away and it makes a loud clicking while driving and when I stop and begin to move it feels like the front right is locking up and the front tire is dragging. It seems to stop after driving about 10 mins. We are going to dig into it this weekend, did you ever figure out what the prob was?
  • I did figure it out. It turned out that the wheel-well guard had broke loose and was flapping against the tire. It sounds like you might have either a bearing problem or a warped rotor though. Hope for the latter.


  • I have just found out that i have the AC problem now too. Something about a hole in my line. So yes, I am about to have to take it to get fixed. Not to mention that I haven't had my 100,000 timing belt changed (because of the cost to repair)!!!! CD player won't read CDs, back windshield wiper hasn't worked in years. and horrible gas mileage, like 270miles per tank.
    So... question is... anyone changed their timing belt or whatever has to be done at around 100,000 miles?? I am at 120,000.
  • You need a blower motor resistor. They are about $20.00 and take 5min. to change.
  • Can anyone tell me how often the power steering fluid should be replaced on my 2000 Xterra. Does th power steering system need to be flushed?
  • i have a 2000 xterra, i have noticed a clunking sound coming from the front end. The sound is only heard when im coming to a stop,and countinues for 5or10 seconds after stoping, the noise sounds kinda like a slow draging clunking sound. Again its only when slowing down and stoping, there is no steering or braking problems(had rotors and pads changed 4 months ago)and the engine runs great. Can anyone help.
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