does anyone know more about the engine? What are the maintenance intervals? Does it have timing belt or chain? What is warranty for the car? The website states 6 airbags standard... but it has an option to add ABS AND airbags. don't get that.... when exactly can we get it? Interested in the hatchback.. What is the cargo volume?
Just wanted to give a bump to post #209...I am very interested in the maintenance details of this engine. I'd read something by a supposed Nissan "insider" which was implying that changing the sparkplugs would a major hassle, based on the engine design. Now, that may be total B.S., but these details will be key in my decision. I'll be buying a new 2nd car for our household this summer and the Versa looks like it might just fit the bill. Certainly the potential value of the Versa (as compared to a well-equipped Mazda3 for e.g.)diminishes if it comes with $1000-1500 of extra maitenence costs over the life of the vehicle.
I'm in a similar situation. We havea Mazda 3 5-door and love the car... for our second car we wanted something cheaper, but not bad. since we already have one car that actually can carry something bulky, alternatives would be a mazda 3i touring 4-door... which is nicely made (again, Mazda is really cool made :-) I looked into Scion A, honda fit and thought of a Kia rio (but I'm dropping that thought :-) I never considered Nissan (by looking at the cars they offer here ... barth....), and they somehow have older cars. Accidently I heard about the Versa... So, how reliable is a Nissan? How expensive is maintenance (to compare, Mazda has a timing chain and 7,500 mile oil changes... almost no maintenance required). Also 4 years warranty (so far I don't ecpect to ever use it, though..) so, what is the deal with the Nissan vErsa? How is the Mexican built quality (I heard it will be built in Mexico.... again, Mazdas come from Japan... sorry about the comments, but our current car is our benchmark... we are willing to compromise with the secondary car, but not too much) what is Nissan Warranty for the Versa? when is it supposed to be available (I read the 5-door, which I consider, comes beginning of summer, the 4-door end of summer..
Hi there Herrkaleu. Looks like we have a few things in common! I'm also looking for a second car. We have a VW Passat wagon for our family-mobile, so I really have the freedom to get just about anything. When it's all said and done I'm just sold on the utility of a hatchback, not to mention I think they often look better. The Versa hatch vs. sedan solidifies that point in my mind, though looks are a matter of taste.
My first car out of college was a '92 Mazda Protege LX which was a great little car...so I've definitely got a place in my heart for Mazda. In fact, I also look at the Mazda 3 5-dr as sort of my "standard bearer" in this search. I'll also be looking at the 5-dr GTI (on the high end of my budget), the standard Golf V, Dodge Caliber and Honda Fit in addition to the Versa & 3.
I've been following the emergence of the "B" segment since I started to hear news of it last year...that's how I picked up on the Versa. If you're not familiar with Nissan, they've had a great performance and solid reliability heritage in N.A. However (like Mazda) they sort of lost their way in the mid to late-90's. They found their way with respect to performance/styling in recent years, but quality has been a concern as recently as the past 5 years. Back when I bought my Protege, I strongly considered the original Sentra SE-R, which at that time was a fantastic little pocket rocket. I was just convinced I needed 4 doors. From the Australian reviews I've read of the Tiida so far, I think you can expect the Versa to be a solid performer, but not with the sharp edge you're used to in a Mazda 3 Touring/Grand Touring.
I see the maintenance/warranty and proven record of the '3' as being major positives, along with the dynamics and pride-in-ownership which it seems to have in spades. In the Versa, I see what looks like a funky European hatchback, at least in the higher trim levels. It seems to have a stance like a VW Golf where the other B-segment cars look a little cartoonish to me. Also the potential of ~40 MPG in a hatchback with a ton of space/features for around $15-16,000 loaded sounds tough to beat for a commuter. I hear mixed stories about the 3's real world fuel economy...I'm convinced I'd get on the high end of the estimates, but even then the Versa (on paper) looks to be nearly 10 mpg more efficient than the 2.3L in the Mazda3. I'd be interested to get your impressions on how the 3 is working out for you in that regard.
I'm also a U.W. grad and grew up about 50 miles north of Madison. As much as I love Minneapolis, I could see moving back to Madison one of these days. Once a cheesehead, always a cheesehead! Cheers!
Getting ready to do my first quick oil filter change. Does anyone know which aftermarket filters work with the Versa? There is no data in the filter books yet but I'm sure it is interchangeable with something like the Sentra's.
Were I you, I'd be going to the dealer for oil changes while the car was still under waranty. That is as long as the dealer doesn't charge an arm and a leg. Changing oil is not hard, nor does it require the skill of a factory trained mechanic, but I like having the car inspected at least while it's under warranty. My dealer charges $29. It's less than jiffy lube.
I just used purolater pur one pl14612 on my versa. they really buried the filter on the front of the engine. you can not get it from the top, (hoses and wires) and from the bottom its a real twister. they also say mobil 1 m1-301 works. i did not go for that because i think its an oversized filter. oversize can void your warranty if something goes wrong. does your dash lights come on with the switch in daylight? no way to turn them off unless i use the parking lights or headlights. also i had atpms tire pressure problem. i saw someone else did also just for info.
The dash lights is a default condition. You don't get to turn them off. It really makes it easier to get in the car at night and drive off while forgetting to turn on your lights. IMO it's one of those features done for safety that has the opposite of the intended affect.
Ben I agree, I like the fact that part of the dash lights are one, but at night it is easy to forget to turn your headlights on thinking they are already on...
I bought a versa SL 3 weeks ago and upon delivery I was told that the seat belt and air bags were inoperative, red dash light on. A defective module/sensor. Can't take delivery. Three weeks later the dealer reported that he received one versa and he would rob the necessary part from that one and install it on ours. They did and I asked what happened to the spare part you ordered 3 weeks ago?. They said no spares in the USA and none allocated as spares in mexico. Now folks, that is scarry. I asked, what if it craps out again? The dealer said call us and we will tow it back . It will be impounded by fed. law.You can't drive it . Just think, I traded my Honda CRV in ,with cash back and already questioning Versa quality.Stupid me!
Parts unavailability is pretty normal for any new model. The defective parts are not a reflection of quality at this point (every car breaks down for someone somewhere sometime). Nissan would provide you with a free rental car for any periods your car was out of service.
Hey, if wolfgar wants to change his own oil in the Versa, he will save at least $20.00 bucks. It only takes 3 quarts, and 10 min time to do it. When its done, he knows what's in there and, that the filter really was changed. Write it down in the service book with the miles, date, and anything else for reference and I would say have fun getting to know what's under the hood. BTW, the filter is not easy to see, and is better to take off from under the car. I added a magnetic drain plug on the first change.
The dealership here will pick up my car (while I'm at work) and leave me a car, change my oil and bring it back to me... for the $29. They're scheduled to pick it up Monday to take it for the sunroof, realignment (it came that way, i swear), the xylon coating, and to attach my front plate mount. I'll be without it for 3 days! but i'll have an Altima or Sentra to drive.
As for the other, it is definitely annoying! My subaru you could leave the lights on all the time, my Sidekick (well, okay, skip that)... but my Vitara would automatically turn on the headlights (it had a light sensor) and now I've got the dash shining at me all the time (and I have mixed feelings about it being orange...) but I've gotten used to noticing whether or not my dials below the radio are on... I've also dimmed the dash lights when the headlights are up so that I can tell the difference if i'm not looking at my console.
On the other side, I thank whoever is responsible that I don't have DRL! It's an "idiot-proof" feature that I despise... Although I can see the need for it... But people should at least be responsible for knowing WHEN to turn on their own lights... like when it's raining, or grey out, or...
In 27+ years of owning Datsuns/Nissans, I've had my second ever warranty issue. One of the prest buttons onthe radio behaved as if there was no spring behind it and would stay depressed, which would effectively lock up the radio. Just got the call that the radio came in and will be replaced this coming Monday. 10 days from notification of problem to fix. Nissan and my dealer really never give me a reason to start looking seriously at other vehicles!
bought a 1990 sentra new, drove it 222,000, original everything but brakes, muffler, and batter. traded in on another car. bought 1998 200sx new, still have it, 149,000 have never done anthing to it but replace the front brakes. rear are still original :P bought 2007 altima, no issues of course
With the experiences I've had, I'll keep buying nissan as long as they exist. If being on the verge of bankruptcy didn't effect the quality of my 98 200sx, nothing scares me. :shades:
ok I have an 07 Versa CVT auto and I bought it because it was under 20k and would comfortably seat my 3 kids... I wanted a 6 speed but the dealer didnt have one and basically talked us into the CVT ,,,oh its so smooth youll love it never have any probs etc.....well he was right till 80k miles then my car started making theis loud humming noise took it straight to the dealer who said its stuck at 35oo rpms... no your fluid is good and full ..... 3 days later its well there is either a defect in your pully or in the belt however Nissan doesnt allow us to tear rthem down you will have to just replace the whole trannie...$5000 out of my pocket .. I cannot get Nissan to call me back their customer affairs line is a joke... so now I have a car that I busted my butt to pay off early with 5 people in the family and a $5000 repair bill coming for a car that isnt even 18 months old also we were told and it is listed on my window sticker that this car was built in TN however carfax says it was built in Mexico...... Had we know this I wouldnt have bought it at all..../I have also been reading now that Nissan has been having probs with this trannie since 06 but of course no one told us about that either.... If you want a VERSA they are awesome in all ways except for this CVT transmission especially considering that you cant have one fixed or rebuilt your only option is to replace it at almost 40% of the original cost of the car itself.... anyone else having CVT problems please email me at TAT@ZBYQ@YAHOO.COM ........ yes I am taking this one to court
I wouldn't have bought this car had I known it was made in mexico NOT because it was made by mexicans but beacuse I feel it is WRONG in every way that these companies send stuff to mexico to be built in sweat factories for very little money while we here in the US then have to pay full price for it just like they payed someone here a fair wage to build it. THANX NAFTA
I purchased a 2008 Versa SL HB in 2/08. First oil change at 3,700 miles by the dealer was free. No where in the owner's manual does it state what Nissan filter to use. FYI, it's a 1520865F0C. At 8,500 miles I changed the oil and filter and used a Fram PH6607 filter + 4 quarts 5W/30 oil. Nissan suggests changing oil and filter every 3,750 miles, but I believe for normal driving every 5,000 miles is sufficient. You can also use a Fram TG6607, DG6607; Puralator PL14612, or Walmart's Super Tech ST6607 filter. I like Fram filters because their textured Sure Grip end makes it easier to install in tight places, like on the Versa. These filters are small so you are probably going to have to purchase a new 65/67 mm cap filter wench. Walmart sells a hard plastic one for ~$2.50 that fits perfectly with a 3/8" socket wrench. The filter is not that hard to change. It took me about 40 mintes to change the oil and filter. If you look straight down from the oil dipstick you can see it from the top. It's easier to remove it from the bottom. Make sure the car is in park with the handbrake on fully and jack the car up on the front passenger side high enough to get a jack stand under it. Put a chock under the left front wheel. Never crawl under a car with just the jack holding it up. There is a black plastic shroud on the bottom that partially blocks the filter. Place a rag on top of the plastic shroud just under the filter to catch dripping oil from the filter. Reach around the edge of the shroud and attach the cap wrench and socket wrench to the filter. There is enough room to easily loosen the filter. Remove the filter from the bottom past the shroud. Try to keep the filter hole up so oil does not drip on you. Put a thin film of oil on the rubber gasket of the new filter. If your hand is long enough you can install it from the bottom, but I found it easier to place the new filter on the top edge of the shroud and reach down from the top and grab it and install it. I wore a latex glove for a surer grip on the filter. The Sure Grip end of the Fram filter and the latex glove makes it easier to get enough torque to install it hand tight plus.
I have my oil changed at my dealership. It is about 30$ . However, they consider me a returning customer and give me a 10% discount. They also have an email and send me reminders of when to change my oil. They then also do things out of courtesy since I am a returning customer. Find out which Nissan dealership in your area does this. I go to one in Manchester CT.
I just finished a "first time" Versa oil change. Piece of cake. DO THIS:
Jack up the passenger's side just a bit, no need to elevate it much as only your arm needs to go under the engine.
Loosen the oil drain plug with a 14mm box-end wrench and drain into your container
While the oil is draining, remove the four 10mm splash guard bolts BUT NOT THE SPLASH GUARD.
Pull the splash guard down (it's very flexible) and grab the oil filter with your nitrile-gloved hand (these thin latex gloves give you all the grip you need) and loosen the oil filter about a quarter turn.
Replace the oil drain plug and snug it tight.
Place a triple layer of good paper towling (Bounty, etc) on top of the splash guard beneath the oil filter and reposition your oil catch container.
Back out the oil filter until it starts to leak, catching as much oil on the absorbent towling as possible and letting the rest go into the container.
Remove the old filter and replace with a new one (I used a Fram 6607) -- don't forget to oil the gasket.
Wipe up any oil drips from the splash guard and replace the four 10mm bolts.
My 2008 versa owners manual states to change oil every three months. i drive mostly short trips in new york state. This sounds a little often to me. I only drive 5000 miles a year so i get my oil changed according to time not miles. I can see this in the winter, but in the warmer months this seems to often. what are you thoughts?
Old recommendations (before the better quality oils now adays, and the tighter clearance engines), would be every 3K miles. You could easily do once a year, but personally I'd do twice a year. An oil change is very cheap compared to engine replacments. Low mileage is not the greatest for engines, if they don't get the opportunity to warm up in winters and burn off any condensation. I'd get that oil out in the spring, then again change it in the fall.
The Nissan owners manual says to wash underside of car after winter driving on salted roads. How can this be done? My only idea would be to take the car to a do it your self car wash and use the high pressure hand held wand to spray the underside of the car. But, the pressure is very high and i am affraid water would be forced into spaces it should not go in to. would an ordinary car wash would do.
Most full-service car washes and many automatic car washes have a high-pressure underbody spray. That is what I use in the winter. My local gas station has an all-cloth automatic car wash with an underbody spray that is relatively cheap and does a good job.
I have now owned my Versa for 4 months. A while back my passenger door started making these rattling noises and the window sounded like it was shaking also. So I took it back to Nissan and they told me that inside the door the motor that controls the window was loose and that this caused the problems. I was very happy when I picked it up, but guess what? A few days later I am living with the same problem. This is pretty annoying and I know we don't slam the doors. They had it fixed, but I am already wondering why I bought this car. This is the second problem I had with this car within 4 months. Has anyone else experienced any problems with the doors?
I have a 2007 Nissan Versa SL with the I-Key and my battery seams to be dieing. I have 40,000 miles on it. I want to know if I will have to have my I-Key reprogrammed after I replace the battery.
I agree with changing the oil every 6 months even if you don't drive 3k miles in that time. I drive 1k miles per month. I used Mobil one synthetic oil in my old car and changed it every 6 months. I just bought a Versa 3 days ago. Will use Mobil one in it and go up to 7500 miles or 6 months. But for 5000 miles a year synthetic oil would be a waist of money.
YES ITS BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX. AS I RENEMBER THERE ARE FOUR OR SIX SCREWS TO REMOVE THE WHOLE BOX. THE FILTER SLIDES IN FROM LEFT TO RIGHT. I REPLACED ONE LAST YEAR. HOPE THIS HELPS.
I have the 09 Versa 1.8 L. HB. I looked at the oil filter area. Looks like I will need to remove a few of the bolts holding on the splash guard. Someone on this board said he could reach in with a cap wrench and get it. Wow. Flexible hands and arms, I guess. I bought a Walmart Supertech filter and the Walmart universal cap wrench, which fits pretty well. Whenever it stops raining and I have about an hour and a half of unfettered time ( rare), I'll give it a shot.
I noticed there are some really tiny and fragile-looking wires on this engine. I'm afraid to touch anything. Might break it. I was trying to get the cap wrench on from above, and my arm was rubbing against those 2 tiny wires going to the alternator. My V8 Chevy was so much nicer to work on, too bad it was a gas hog.
I just changed the oil and filter. 3,400 miles. The trick is to remove the 4 bolts holding the splash guard on. There are still some other non-removable ( or pita to remove) non-bolt things holding the splashguard on still, but you can bend down the guard, where you have removed the four bolts (easy) and get your arm into the slot, to work on the filter easily. I drove my V up on boards (front tires) to get it off the ground a bit. You don't need a rag, the oil from the filter just runs down onto the guard, and the guard has slots in it to let the oil drain right thru it into your collection pan. The orig nissan filter (made in china) is on tight. I could not get it off by hand only, had to use a cap wrench. I used a Walmart Supertech 6607 filter as the new filter. Its a quarter inch shorter than the Nissan filter. I used 4.75 quarts of 5w30 Supertech oil. Kept receipts for warranty. Cancelled my "free oil change" at the dealer. Now they don't have to touch my cute little V. :P :shades:
Nissan dealer told me this morning that Nissan is extending the warranty coverage on CVT's to 10yr/120,000mi. Call your Nissan dealer because I think Nissan is going to reimburse for past repairs as well. Sounds like their stepping up to address their customer issues with repair cost.
My a/c compressor is fried w/ just 50,000 miles. The warranty is expired, but the car is only 2 yrs. old. I commute to work, but I take care of my car and have the maintenance done. Now the money I thought I saved on the price of my new car will now cost me nearly 2,000 in repairs. Has anyone else had this happen? My CD player was replaced for malfunctioning before 30,000 miles. Maybe that was an indication of things to come.
2000 bucks for an AC compressor?? You need to shop around, shouldn't be more than 400 - which is still unacceptable for a 2 year old car - but still. In fact, when you say "fried" it makes me think that it could just be the clutch pulley that is gone, not the whole compressor, which would be even cheaper, only a couple hundred.
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Snow has been around for three weeks now and really cant complain about handling and control of this vehicle. Some have been criticising the Continental tires; I find them as good as many others. Bear in mind this is not an all terrain vehicle using common sense will usually not get you in trouble. The accelerator and steering also has lots to do with its delicate response to keep wheel spin to a minimum
I bought a 2011 Versa SL Hatchback last week. I will be performing my own oil changes. I've yet to explore the underbelly - if I had, maybe I might not be asking this question.
Is there is good/safe lift point for a floorjack at the front end? If yes - where? Or, am I relegated to lifting from the side with a scissor-type jack?
The dealer recommended oil filter # 15208-65FOC. I've since discovered Nissan's oil filter list resembles alphabet soup - many varieties. Also, read many comments relative to the 'inferiorness' of Nissan's oil filters?? What's the current wisdom as to the best oil filter? OEM {what part number?} or Fram {what part number?}
One more question: I've always been one to disable the ignition system, to enable cranking the engine for 10-15 seconds before starting the engine. I never did like that second or two sound coming from the engine before oil pressure built up. If this can be easily done, would someone please describe the location and appearance of the disconnect point? Or, is this not an easy thing? If so, I will forego the ignition disablement.
See my post above about the protective plastic to be removed to get to the filter. I bought a Nissan oil filter from the dealer, with the Nissan logo on it. It acted the same as my cheap Walmart filters, in other words, it worked fine, as far as I can tell. Made no difference in the occasional knocking I get with warm engine, in my 2009 1.8 Hatchback. I asked 2 dealers where the lift points were. They were pretty clueless. They said to just look for "a solid looking spot". The Nissan mechanics there said they put the lift feet right on the thin sheet metal under the doors ! I avoid the jack question by driving my V up on boards for the oil change.
Use car ramps or blocks, planks or similar devices. No matter how sophisticated jacks can be, best use support that wont collapse on you. By passing ignition may not be a good idea on modern cars. One can do more expensive damage on electronic components than will be done by a little air in the oil passages on start-up.
Comments
What is warranty for the car?
The website states 6 airbags standard... but it has an option to add ABS AND airbags. don't get that....
when exactly can we get it? Interested in the hatchback..
What is the cargo volume?
for our second car we wanted something cheaper, but not bad. since we already have one car that actually can carry something bulky, alternatives would be a mazda 3i touring 4-door... which is nicely made (again, Mazda is really cool made :-)
I looked into Scion A, honda fit and thought of a Kia rio (but I'm dropping that thought :-)
I never considered Nissan (by looking at the cars they offer here ... barth....), and they somehow have older cars. Accidently I heard about the Versa...
So, how reliable is a Nissan? How expensive is maintenance (to compare, Mazda has a timing chain and 7,500 mile oil changes... almost no maintenance required). Also 4 years warranty (so far I don't ecpect to ever use it, though..)
so, what is the deal with the Nissan vErsa? How is the Mexican built quality (I heard it will be built in Mexico.... again, Mazdas come from Japan... sorry about the comments, but our current car is our benchmark... we are willing to compromise with the secondary car, but not too much)
what is Nissan Warranty for the Versa? when is it supposed to be available (I read the 5-door, which I consider, comes beginning of summer, the 4-door end of summer..
My first car out of college was a '92 Mazda Protege LX which was a great little car...so I've definitely got a place in my heart for Mazda. In fact, I also look at the Mazda 3 5-dr as sort of my "standard bearer" in this search. I'll also be looking at the 5-dr GTI (on the high end of my budget), the standard Golf V, Dodge Caliber and Honda Fit in addition to the Versa & 3.
I've been following the emergence of the "B" segment since I started to hear news of it last year...that's how I picked up on the Versa. If you're not familiar with Nissan, they've had a great performance and solid reliability heritage in N.A. However (like Mazda) they sort of lost their way in the mid to late-90's. They found their way with respect to performance/styling in recent years, but quality has been a concern as recently as the past 5 years. Back when I bought my Protege, I strongly considered the original Sentra SE-R, which at that time was a fantastic little pocket rocket. I was just convinced I needed 4 doors. From the Australian reviews I've read of the Tiida so far, I think you can expect the Versa to be a solid performer, but not with the sharp edge you're used to in a Mazda 3 Touring/Grand Touring.
I see the maintenance/warranty and proven record of the '3' as being major positives, along with the dynamics and pride-in-ownership which it seems to have in spades. In the Versa, I see what looks like a funky European hatchback, at least in the higher trim levels. It seems to have a stance like a VW Golf where the other B-segment cars look a little cartoonish to me. Also the potential of ~40 MPG in a hatchback with a ton of space/features for around $15-16,000 loaded sounds tough to beat for a commuter. I hear mixed stories about the 3's real world fuel economy...I'm convinced I'd get on the high end of the estimates, but even then the Versa (on paper) looks to be nearly 10 mpg more efficient than the 2.3L in the Mazda3. I'd be interested to get your impressions on how the 3 is working out for you in that regard.
I'm also a U.W. grad and grew up about 50 miles north of Madison. As much as I love Minneapolis, I could see moving back to Madison one of these days. Once a cheesehead, always a cheesehead! Cheers!
Probably runs coilpacks under the vanity cover, but that's just a guess.
Thanks
Ben
Tony :shades:
P.S the engine in the Versa is a ALL NEW engine.
Ben
Tony :shades:
I asked, what if it craps out again? The dealer said call us and we will tow it back . It will be impounded by fed. law.You can't drive it . Just think, I traded my Honda CRV in ,with cash back and already questioning Versa quality.Stupid me!
It only takes 3 quarts, and 10 min time to do it. When its done, he knows what's in there and, that the filter really was changed.
Write it down in the service book with the miles, date, and anything else for reference and I would say have fun getting to know what's under the hood. BTW, the filter is not easy to see, and is better to take off from under the car. I added a magnetic drain plug on the first change.
As for the other, it is definitely annoying! My subaru you could leave the lights on all the time, my Sidekick (well, okay, skip that)... but my Vitara would automatically turn on the headlights (it had a light sensor) and now I've got the dash shining at me all the time (and I have mixed feelings about it being orange...) but I've gotten used to noticing whether or not my dials below the radio are on... I've also dimmed the dash lights when the headlights are up so that I can tell the difference if i'm not looking at my console.
On the other side, I thank whoever is responsible that I don't have DRL! It's an "idiot-proof" feature that I despise... Although I can see the need for it... But people should at least be responsible for knowing WHEN to turn on their own lights... like when it's raining, or grey out, or...
--cheers! :P
bought 1998 200sx new, still have it, 149,000 have never done anthing to it but replace the front brakes. rear are still original :P
bought 2007 altima, no issues of course
With the experiences I've had, I'll keep buying nissan as long as they exist. If being on the verge of bankruptcy didn't effect the quality of my 98 200sx, nothing scares me. :shades:
I like Fram filters because their textured Sure Grip end makes it easier to install in tight places, like on the Versa.
These filters are small so you are probably going to have to purchase a new 65/67 mm cap filter wench. Walmart sells a hard plastic one for ~$2.50 that fits perfectly with a 3/8" socket wrench.
The filter is not that hard to change. It took me about 40 mintes to change the oil and filter. If you look straight down from the oil dipstick you can see it from the top. It's easier to remove it from the bottom.
Make sure the car is in park with the handbrake on fully and jack the car up on the front passenger side high enough to get a jack stand under it. Put a chock under the left front wheel. Never crawl under a car with just the jack holding it up.
There is a black plastic shroud on the bottom that partially blocks the filter. Place a rag on top of the plastic shroud just under the filter to catch dripping oil from the filter. Reach around the edge of the shroud and attach the cap wrench and socket wrench to the filter. There is enough room to easily loosen the filter. Remove the filter from the bottom past the shroud. Try to keep the filter hole up so oil does not drip on you. Put a thin film of oil on the rubber gasket of the new filter. If your hand is long enough you can install it from the bottom, but I found it easier to place the new filter on the top edge of the shroud and reach down from the top and grab it and install it. I wore a latex glove for a surer grip on the filter. The Sure Grip end of the Fram filter and the latex glove makes it easier to get enough torque to install it hand tight plus.
Jack up the passenger's side just a bit, no need to elevate it much as only your arm needs to go under the engine.
Loosen the oil drain plug with a 14mm box-end wrench and drain into your container
While the oil is draining, remove the four 10mm splash guard bolts BUT NOT THE SPLASH GUARD.
Pull the splash guard down (it's very flexible) and grab the oil filter with your nitrile-gloved hand (these thin latex gloves give you all the grip you need) and loosen the oil filter about a quarter turn.
Replace the oil drain plug and snug it tight.
Place a triple layer of good paper towling (Bounty, etc) on top of the splash guard beneath the oil filter and reposition your oil catch container.
Back out the oil filter until it starts to leak, catching as much oil on the absorbent towling as possible and letting the rest go into the container.
Remove the old filter and replace with a new one (I used a Fram 6607) -- don't forget to oil the gasket.
Wipe up any oil drips from the splash guard and replace the four 10mm bolts.
Add 4 qts 5w30 and check for leaks.
i drive mostly short trips in new york state. This sounds a little often to me.
I only drive 5000 miles a year so i get my oil changed according to time not miles.
I can see this in the winter, but in the warmer months this seems to often.
what are you thoughts?
My only idea would be to take the car to a do it your self car wash and use the high pressure hand held wand to spray the underside of the car. But, the pressure is very high and i am affraid water would be forced into spaces it should not go in to.
would an ordinary car wash would do.
This is pretty annoying and I know we don't slam the doors. They had it fixed, but I am already wondering why I bought this car. This is the second problem I had with this car within 4 months. Has anyone else experienced any problems with the doors?
I drive 1k miles per month. I used Mobil one synthetic oil in my old car and changed it every 6 months.
I just bought a Versa 3 days ago. Will use Mobil one in it and go up to 7500 miles or 6 months.
But for 5000 miles a year synthetic oil would be a waist of money.
Thanks,
tyou08
tyou08
I noticed there are some really tiny and fragile-looking wires on this engine. I'm afraid to touch anything. Might break it. I was trying to get the cap wrench on from above, and my arm was rubbing against those 2 tiny wires going to the alternator. My V8 Chevy was so much nicer to work on, too bad it was a gas hog.
Its better you choose some best nissan parts dealer and replace you old one with new original parts!
good luck and keep us posted.
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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Some have been criticising the Continental tires; I find them as good as many others.
Bear in mind this is not an all terrain vehicle using common sense will usually not get you in trouble. The accelerator and steering also has lots to do with its delicate response to keep wheel spin to a minimum
Is there is good/safe lift point for a floorjack at the front end? If yes - where? Or, am I relegated to lifting from the side with a scissor-type jack?
The dealer recommended oil filter # 15208-65FOC. I've since discovered Nissan's oil filter list resembles alphabet soup - many varieties. Also, read many comments relative to the 'inferiorness' of Nissan's oil filters?? What's the current wisdom as to the best oil filter? OEM {what part number?} or Fram {what part number?}
One more question: I've always been one to disable the ignition system, to enable cranking the engine for 10-15 seconds before starting the engine. I never did like that second or two sound coming from the engine before oil pressure built up. If this can be easily done, would someone please describe the location and appearance of the disconnect point? Or, is this not an easy thing? If so, I will forego the ignition disablement.
Thanks ~ james
See my post above about the protective plastic to be removed to get to the filter. I bought a Nissan oil filter from the dealer, with the Nissan logo on it. It acted the same as my cheap Walmart filters, in other words, it worked fine, as far as I can tell. Made no difference in the occasional knocking I get with warm engine, in my 2009 1.8 Hatchback. I asked 2 dealers where the lift points were. They were pretty clueless. They said to just look for "a solid looking spot". The Nissan mechanics there said they put the lift feet right on the thin sheet metal under the doors !
I avoid the jack question by driving my V up on boards for the oil change.
TM
No matter how sophisticated jacks can be, best use support that wont collapse on you.
By passing ignition may not be a good idea on modern cars.
One can do more expensive damage on electronic components than will be done by a little air in the oil passages on start-up.