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Mazda CX-7 AC problems



  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    edited October 2011
    This isn't working - all people are doing is posting contact info in the forum, which is spidered by Google and Bing and the rest of the search engine. That means that every one of y'all is going to wind up on spam lists.

    Plus it's against our forum rules, so we're going to clean out posts with email addresses in them.

    You could just change your email to public in your profile.

    Even better, take a picture of the letter, block out any identifying information, and park it on a photo hosting site like and simply link to it. Then people will be able to find it in two years without having to try to track you down.
  • Can you send me a copy of the letter as well regarding the AC issues? We are having a bear of a time with this.

  • pctechpctech Posts: 43
    I would be happy to do this but your email address is set to "private" so I have no place to send it. In the future, anyone who wants a copy of this letter MUST have a visible email address in your user profile. I don't have time to keep asking, so I'll just ignore the request in the future if your address is not visible the FIRST time I check!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Can't you just park this stuff on Flickr or Photobucket and link to it? People are going to be asking about it for years to come.
  • Please shoot me a copy of this. 2007 A/C smoked out last week at 48K.
  • I found the letter! PM me and I'll email a copy. Tom
  • The AC compressor is not a recall, the warranty on the part was extended to 60,000 miles - if your AC compressor breaks after that, you're responsible for the cost of the new compressor. I bought my Mazda at 60,000 miles and the AC compressor went out at 68,000 miles, I got sooooo lucky because my Mazda dealer replaced the part and only charged me $100!!! I love Mazda!!!
  • Can I please get a copy of the recall letter for the 2007 - 2008 CX7 AC problems? We have a 2008 that we purchased in Sept 2010, it has less then 36,000 miles on it (still under warranty) and it has started Smoking. We do not know if it is an extended idle problem because my hubby let it idle while he was doing some pdr on it, and so oil might have got in the turbo or if it is an AC problem like others have had when theirs started smoking. I have this account linked through my profile on facebook, it could send it there or use the email provided in facebook, I would really appreciate it.
  • aerasaeras Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my AC Compressor and do not recall having received a recall letter. Would it be possible for you to e mail a copy of the one sent to you?
  • pctechpctech Posts: 43
    I don't mind individually sending copies of the letter, though I expect that, if you qualified under the program, you would have received the letter. Since I'm not going to post it to one of the "sharing" sites, you must realize that it's impossible for me to email you when your address is not available!
  • What kind of documentation did you receive to advise you that the warranty on the part was extended to 60,000 miles? mine just blew at 55 and I am seeking retribution. The repair guy even gave me the old one to take to Mazda to show them.
  • Hi, I called the Mazda corporate office and they told me about the extended warranty - they also told my Mazda mechanic. Like I stated before, its not a recall (even though I think it should be), its an extended warranty. Has your car been fixed yet? If not, its best to take it to a Mazda repair shop because they deal directly with Mazda corporate and corporate with pay the bill directly otherwise if you go through somebody else besides Mazda, I believe Mazda will reimburse you but it might take some time and I'm not sure you want to wait - its about $1000 to fix. Good luck!
  • I picked up my car today, I had it fixed by Aamco, who was wonderful. The starter went also (again, only 55K miles on my car)!! So, both combined it cost me $800 with labor and tax. The compressor came directly from Mazda because they don't make an after market one for the CX-7, or so I was told....still, paid alot less than the dealer would have charged me. The man at Aamco told me to be persistent with Mazda, he has seen situations like this with other cars, Ford precisely....he said Ford makes the compressor for Mazdas.... he gave me my seized up compressor in case I needed to bring it to Mazda. Such a shame, I haven't had a single problem with the vehicle until now and I have always loved it. We have been looking at trading it in recently and I believe we will pursue that avenue.

    I will check on the extended warranty, thanks!
  • pctechpctech Posts: 43
    Here are the specifics of the letter:
    Warranty Extension Program SSP 81
    2007-2008 CX-7
    A/C compressor warranty extended to 5 years/60,000 miles
    Vehicle MUST be within the limits shown.
    Questions, contact Mazda at (800) 222-5500.
  • Jonathon Ramsey RSS feed
    Posted Mar 12th 2012 11:31AM
    287176 Comments160

    Mazda is taking the steps necessary to right its financial ship, but when a patient has this kind of issue, the cure can hurt just as much. The small, independent carmaker has been hurt by its relatively Japan-centric manufacturing base and the strength of the yen, the loss of Ford as a noteworthy stakeholder and the resulting loss of financial cushion. Mazda is expected to post a $1.2 billion loss for its 2011 financial year, which is smaller than earlier estimates but it's still the fourth losing year in a row and the largest in a decade.

    The need to act has forced Mazda North America into a five-month plan to shed a number of its 701 employees for leaner running. Select employees will be offered a buyout package, and if voluntary uptake isn't sufficient then involuntary dismissals will occur. The timeline begins this month with lump-sum offers, followed by layoffs at the end of May if necessary, and the stretch to August will see the transition of personnel into the restructured organization.

    Mazda is also issuing shares to raise $1.9 billion in order to aid its position and get production started in Mexico and Thailand. It is also aggressively seeking a partner and considering licensing its SkyActiv technology.
  • lysol98lysol98 Posts: 1
    2007 CX 7 Sport 2WD. Bought the car 2 years ago with 38k and have had no problems until this year. The end of last year, the car would occasionally go into a limp mode limiting the car electronically. I couldn't go over 30mph. Took it to the dealership and they replaced the throttle body for $1k.

    Then, the wife and I decided to go to the Grand Canyon last weekend. On our way back to Vegas, we were outside of Kingman and the a/c out of no where started blowing hot air. We started testing it going down the highway for a couple minutes and decided to turn it off after we saw smoke and roll down the windows. We set the cruise for 75 and just tried to stay cool. From kingman to vegas is about 100 miles so we made that fine. The car did make a bad sound. I don't know how the belt held up but it did. When I pulled into my driveway, the car stalled. I started it back up after we unloaded everything and took it to the firestone just downt the street. They quoted me $2100 to fix the a/c. Then I started researching online and I was outraged at what I saw. I am at 68k miles (8k miles out of warrranty). I could have been stranded on the side of the highway in 90+ temps... I went back and forth all this past week with Mazda and they would do nothing unless I took the car to the dealership and paid the $107 to have them agree with me that it is the a/c problem even after I have the paper from Firestone saying it is that i paid $50 for. Mazda wouldn't budge at all!! I decided to pick my car up form Firestone before they accidentally fixed it and I would have to pay over 2 grand... I drove my car home and the engine stalled again. I was able to get it going again after feathering the gas pedal a little. I started making room in my garage to prepare working on the car and the thing stalled again. After 30 minutes it went from the motor turning over reallly slow to the starter just clicking because the serpantine belt won't budge. Now it's stuck in the driveway. I just ordered a new compressor, dryer, and accumulator online for about $400. I'm buying a new serpantine belt and o ring kit from autozone tomorrow for about $50.

    Tonight, I'm going to cut my current serpantine belt so I can start up the car, turn it around and back it into the garage real quick. Quick is the key here cause the water pump is run off the belt and I don't want to overheat the motor. driveway is a slight hill and can't push it up it. Should only take me a couple days to replace the parts. Once I get everything put back together, I'm going to have to leave the a/c button in the car off so i don't burn the new compressor up and drive to an a/c place to charge my system for around $100. after that, I should be good. total spent shouldn't be more than $550-600. Much better than $2100+....... Me and the wife don't plan on keeping the mazda much longer. The car is great, but the attitudes I recieved from the company was some of the worst customer service I have ever recieved.

    If you take anything from this, If they don't fix this with a recall in the future, you can do this yourself and save a lot of money. I do have a motorcycle that is currently my daily driver until the mazda is fixed so most people don't have that option but it is something to think about if you do. Also, I had a hard time finding a service manual for our car. I did buy a 30 day subscription to Chilton DIY online for like $15. it has some nice picutes to help with the install. Wish me luck!!!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    edited May 2012
    Good luck with the fix. Some of the links in the Online Repair Manuals discussion may help.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Neither Firestone nor Goodyear should ever be trusted by anyone insofar as price estimates. They see problems where non exists and beware of up-sells/add-ons.

    You will need to have a shop flush the system of metallic "fines" before you install any new parts, most especially a compressor..

    Strange failure mode, the compressor clutch not releasing, have you tried removing the clutch voltage source?

    The reason you heard the clicking is because the battery is dead, the alternator hasn't been turning....
  • stantonb1stantonb1 Posts: 51
    We have a 2011 CX7 Grand Touring AWD Turbo with under 5,000 miles. AC was not cooling properly took to dealer and told operating correctly. After much frustration took to AC specialist and unit was under charged by half volume. Had completely charged at cost of $80.00. Car gets ice cold. Mazda not receptive to any information provided and basically states what I did was on my own.

    Can anyone advise what I may be in for with the CX7 AC system. AC specialist advised that system is problem prawn.
  • tselftself Posts: 1
    I have a 2011 CX9 and I've had nothing but problems with AC. Mazda keeps saying it's normal but when the AC starts blowing hot air when I'm sitting in traffic doesn't seem normal to me. I took it in to a dealership for the 4th time last week because they said they had a fix for it. The fix doesn't work. I'm completly lost as to what to do next. I live in Texas with 110 degrees as the average temp during the summer and my car won't keep cool unless I'm going 60 without stopping. I will NEVER own another Mazda again that's for sure!!! :mad:
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Your engine is "tending" toward overheating. Most newer cars, if the engine coolant temperature begins to rise rapidly(??), or rises to a predetermined point below actual overheat, will disable the A/C automatically. Has your dealer checked that the radiator cooling fan(s) are operating properly, going into full high speed early enough to prevent a rise in coolant temperature in heavy stop and go traffic?
  • e_bustere_buster Posts: 5
    edited June 2012
    Check to determine if AC blows hot air after vehicle first started from cool overnight parked state with re-circulate off. Check to see if AC blows hot air only after vehicle has been driven a while then parked a short time again re-circulate off. Turn on the re-circulate switch on the AC to bypass the incoming air to prevent hot underhood air from getting into the system and check again. Turn the blower on high while driving and see if the AC eventually does work about ten minutes. Any difference then the problem may be hot underhood engine air overpowers the AC system. Design of system the intake AC air is not coming from outside the car instead from the engine compartment. More you drive the hotter the engine compartment gets and the longer it takes the AC to compensate. If the AC works properly on a cooled overnight system the problem is most likely hot intake air overpowers system. Fix for this problem is to change the AC control module to allow you to set the re-circulate even with the AC compressor is turned off. Not the ideal modification but at least a way to keep the hot air out of the car until the underhood air cools down which takes a bit of driving at decent speed.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    edited June 2012
    Many owners of the new water cooled Porsche 911's in that climate modify the radiator cooling fan circuits such that they can "pre-emptively" run the radiator cooling fans (2) at full speed using a simple on/off switch.

    You can also lower the HEAT load on the engine cooling radiator flowing from the A/C condensor. Bypass the A/C system's reheat/remix mode.

    Run the system in recirculate and the max cooling position then use the blower speed to moderate the cabin cooling level. The A/C compressor duty-cycle will be lower then otherwise, less HEAT from the condensor.
  • e_bustere_buster Posts: 5
    edited June 2012
    There is an easy way to check the AC system to determine if the hot air problem is a faulty compressor issue or an overloaded system.

    1. Open the glove box remove contents and press side tabs to drop it down.
    2. Remove filter cover plate from air intake and remove cabin filter (flexible sides) comes out easily.
    3. Turn the AC off and fan on high with re-circulate off set temperature low.
    4. Put a thermometer or even your hand into filter slot to check intake air temperature.
    5. Compare intake air temperature and to ambient outside air temperature.

    Both temperatures should be about the same no noticeable difference whether the engine and underhood compartment is hot or cold. A big temperature difference after the engine has been run hot then left off for a while as compared to when the engine is overnight cool means the intake air is very hot so overpowers the air conditioning system.

    To overcome this problem set the re-circulate on and use the AC to cool cabin air instead of intake air.

    There is no ready fix for this problem as the air intake pipe opens to the underhood channel on top of the engine at front fo the windshield. So it gets really hot if the vehicle is idles excessively when not enough air gets into the engine compartment to cool it down.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    I don't know of any reasonably modern design that doesn't have a GOOD rubber seal between the hood and the firewall in order to keep engine compartment air/atmsophere/heat from entering the A/C outside inlet airflow duct.
  • e_bustere_buster Posts: 5
    Regards to the firewall to hood seal, it does not block air from the engine compartment. Plus the location of the intake duct, windshield air chamber and ambient air intake grills causes mostly hot air at low driving speeds.

    Notice the firewall top rubber strip extends the width of the windshield except it does not seal the corners of the engine compartment. Look again you will see the intake grills on bottom of the windshield outside are on left and right sides of windshield immediately behind the openings to the engine compartment. Note also the air intake connects to a metal bottomed chamber below the front of the windshield also houses the wiper blade assembly.

    Have dismantled the whole lot and determined the hot air from the engine compartment gets rammed into the chamber through the upper corners where the firewall seal does not extend. Plus the metal on the chamber bottom gets extremely hot due to the engine and exhaust pipes being so close underneith.

    So the air conditioner intake draws the air from the chamber which can be very hot if the engine has been run long and then stopped. Takes a really long time for the small amount of outside ambient air coming into the windshield drip chamber through the upper grill runs along the bottom of the windshield to not be heated if the chamber was hot.

    Grill design is similar on Mazda 3, CX-7 and CX-9 vehicles none of them have a completely sealed firewall. Although the CX-7 GT is and Mazda Speed 3 are the most affected due to the very hot turbo and intercooler located just a couple inches below the windshield air intake chamber.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    I don't own a Mazda but a quick check of mine and my neighbors' stable(***) indicates that the more common placement of the seal in question is forward of the cabin's fresh air inflow path.

    *** '01 RX300, '95 LS400, '93 Ranger PU, '01 E350 MH, '92 Ford Aerostar.
  • stantonb1stantonb1 Posts: 51
    edited July 2012
    On Mon. July 9th took my 2011 CX7 Grand Touring with 5,000 miles to dealer for AC repair. AC was doing nothing not lighting up certainly not cooling. Told fuse had blown to AC and a wire needed to be reconnected. Dealer performed work. AC back on. If CX7 bakes in driveway for a few hours when temps are 90-100F and you first start CX7 AC makes banging noise. AC never seems to get COLD eventually cooler, but not cold after 1/2 hour or longer. At best 68-65F is what comes out of center vent. Our CX7 is black and perhaps this causes it to get hotter than a lighter car, but CX7 stays really hot. Neighbor suggested having side windows tinted; do not know whether this would help. Returning to dealer July 25th. Does any one have any suggestions, am very frustrated.
  • stantonb1stantonb1 Posts: 51
    edited July 2012
    On Sat July 14th driving my 2011 CX7 Grand Touring with my family when AC went dead again. The outside temp was in the 90's. Purely by accident I was by a automobile restoration business and employees came over to CX7 to see if they could help because I had pulled over. I said AC went dead and they offered to take a look. Came to conclusion that my system had air in it. Told that system had been low and refrigerant had been added. Fuse had blow before and dealer replaced a nd re attached lose wire. Restoration owner spent over an hour evacuating my system and refilling with refrigerant. Replaced fuse and "set up my system". While talking with mechanics told of taking into two sepereate Mazda service centers and had AC gone over by these centers. Automobile restoration business would not take money from me. Told they believe they found and corrected problem. Just blown away that owner refused to take any money from me. Owner said that working on my AC was a learning experience for them, glad they could help me. Will send thank you and gift card. G-d bless good mechanics who care. AC has been working well; I think they fixed my CX7 AC correctly. Why couldn't Mazda find the problem? I was in and out of both Mazda service centers in no time, told I was good to go problem was repaired. May good mechanics live very long lives, we certainly need them.
  • md1988md1988 Posts: 1
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