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Toyota Echo Transmission

Need a way forward,
I have a 2000 Toyota Echo with 80,000 miles and the dealership has just informed me that i will need a NEW transmission. At the 68,000 mile mark I noticed that the transmission slipped out of gear and going from stop to start it appeared to jump into gear. This is an automatic transmission and i was surprised to think that this was the problem. I cleaned the MAF sensor and everything seemed fine until the 80,000 mark where the problem is almost constant. I replaced the MAF from Auto Zone but the problem continues. The dealership reccomended a transmission flush to possibly narrow down the problem but this failed to get results. The transmission fluid was also replaced at 35,000 by Toyota. I am puzzeled by the MAF that appears to change how the transmission shifts, When I took into the dealership I could not get it into D and only had the lower 2 gears. I pulled over, unplugged and plugged the MAF back in and went the next 5 miles to the dealership witht the trans running perfect. When i discussed this with the mechanic he said the MAF has nothing to do with the transmission. I'm puzzeled by this and can't believe that i need a new trans at 80,000 and would welcome feed back or suggestions that may save me big bucks!


  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,030
    I would recommend replacing your auto tranny with a manual. It probably won't cost any more to do so, and if it does, it would only be marginally more. There are so many advantages to having a stick over an auto. They last infinitely longer. An automatic tranny is always the weakest link in any vehicle's drive train. Manuals get better fuel economy, and they're more fun to drive. Going to a manual would save you money in the long run. Automatic tansmissions are lot like power windows; while they seem more convenient up front, they don't last as long and are more expensive to repair. If you're talking about windows or trannies, manual is the only way to go!
  • That is great advice. Do you feel that the cost would be about the same and is this an easy conversion? I would prefer the manual and never thought of that as an option. I'll keep you posted.
    Do you feel the MAF sensor could cause this condition?
    Thanks very much for the reply.
  • I don't know a whole lot about cars but I have a 2001 Echo with 80,000 miles and I have just been told also that I need a new transmission. I've had a few cars in my life and never have I ever needed a new transmission, especially with such a new car. I mean, my father has an 89 and he hasn't even needed a new transmission yet. I am appalled, why do I need a new trans??? Someone help!?!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Get a second opinion! Does the car run right? Did you deal with the shop yourself? (being a woman) Shops have been known to flim flam those who may not be auto savvy. On the other hand they may be perfectly right. Tell me what problems you have having with the car and perhaps I or someone else can help.
  • Well I actually went with my father who at first thought i needed to change the transmission fluid, but the fluid was full.. but on the other hand i haven't had it flushed and changed since i've had the car in '03. The only problem I have with the car is when i initially get in it for the day. When I put the car in drive, it takes about 30 seconds to a minute for the car to actually move. It's as if the car is in neutral and takes a few seconds to shift into drive. Any help would be useful, I don't have a thousand dollars for a new trans. I didn't get a second opinion but I plan to on Monday. I mean, wouldnt all of the gears delay if the trans was a problem??? My reverse works perfectly. Please help!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    I had a Saturn that did the same thing only it wouldnt go into reverse. It was a bad valve body or something. $700. I just drove it until it didnt move anymore. Looks like the shop is right.
  • mopar71mopar71 Posts: 31
    Sorry to hear your problem, I have two toyota echos, I have a 2000 and a 2003,both with auto trans. The 2000 I had the trans fluid changed at about 40k.the 2003 I bought used and I will change it myself.Never had any problems with either. have the trans oil changed at the dealer first! and have them flush it, . :D
  • thompinethompine Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 automatic Echo. Mechanic said it is transmission. If I drive the car cold when I give it gas it hesitates as I continue to give it gas it picks up and will go.
    Could this be transmission. Car has 78,000 miles. I am the only owner. :shades:
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    How theoil level? Frankly it doesnt sound like a trans problem to me. I would get another opinion. Good luck! Usually when the trans goes it wont shift at all or the car even move.
  • andystar1andystar1 Posts: 4
    This is in response to post #11

    I have 2000 Echo with 100k miles.
    At around 60k miles, I had exact same problem.
    It is not a transmission problem.
    Replace MAF filter!
  • treah44treah44 Posts: 1
    Is the MAF the Mass Air flow sensor located in the air cleaner,
    I've had trouble w/that before and cleaning it did the trick, Where is the MAF filter ?
    My tranny jumped into neutral in a rainstorm, but the shifter was in drive !!, coasted to the side and a minute later it was OK..At 65000, guess I need the fluid changed ...
  • I need to pull the engine and manual transaxle on my 2002 Echo. Is there a way to disconnect the driveshafts from the trans without disconnecting the steering knuckle, tie rods, and the wheel end?

    Thanks in advance.
  • happy33happy33 Posts: 1
    Hi I'm new here. I have a question for all you good people. My mother has a 01 manual trans toyota echo. At first when you put the car into gear it would go slow and then about a cople a of seconds later it would speed up, Now you turn on the car you put it into gear and you have to excelarate really hard for it to even move and it doesn't even speed up anymore you have to force the engine for it to walk. what do you think it could be.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Are there any error codes?
  • dakedake Posts: 131
  • Hi,
    My son just bought a 2000 ECHO with a 5 sp tranny and 255k kilometers or 160k miles. It's in really good shape actually and we LOVE driving it around.

    When idling there is a chirping noise coming from the driver's side of the engine. When slight pressure is applied on the clutch pedal it disappears and then reappears when the pedal is released.

    A Google search has someone saying if the chirping disappears when the clutch is depressed it is the input shaft bearing... if it only chirps when the clutch is depressed and quits when it is released , then it is the throw-out bearing.

    I think is must be the reverse... if the chirping goes away when the clutch is depressed that is a noisy throw-out bearing (not a big deal).

    First... has anyone else had this chirping noise?

    If so... should we be concerned?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    My 240D had noises like that for like 50k miles before I sold it. (input shaft bearing) Maybe it still does! If your son can be persuaded to take it easy (HA!) everything should hang together for a while yet. Hopefully you can find a trustworthy mechanic in the meantime. But with any luck that wont be necessary.
  • That's good news... or not? So you think it was input shaft or throw out bearing?

    Re: "take it easy" I think he realizes that this car is in it's senior years... but being a new driver, he might not have the sense of what is hard on a vehicle. I'm that one that will rev it out while accelerating... it's fun to drive... but smooth shifting is not likely to hurt it.

    Thx for the feedback. Anyone else have chirping????
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    and I agree with kneisl, that's the input shaft bearing. And they can do that for a VERY long time before failing, so on a 160K-mile car I wouldn't worry about it too much...

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • I drive a 2000 Toyota Echo with over 100K miles on it. It drives just fine, but this year I was told that I needed to have its transmission flushed. How often is this necessary? I have never had this done before, and like I said, it drives fine, no issues.
  • I used to drive a '96 Ford Windstar and I still drive a '94 Mercury Sable Wagon. Both were notorious for having the automatic transmission blow up at just over 100K. I put a transmission cooler on the Windstar since I pulled a small utility trailer for holidays over the Rocky Mountains yearly.

    I thought that given the reputation of the transmissions, that I would occasionally flush the transmissions... thinking if I change oil every 5000 - 10000 km then changing the tranny fluid every 80K or 100K would certainly be reasonable.

    The outcome... I had 270,000 Km on the van when I slipped off an icy road last year (they wrote it off because the airbag went off) AND I am still communting daily with the Sable wagon and it's pushing 300,000 Km. I have had NO tranny problems except for cracked line to the radiator that was easily replaced.

    IMHO... I'd say that the flush is WELL WORTH IT! :shades:
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    Automatic, I assume? If you have a manual, they are taking you for a ride. Manuals don't get flushed.

    On an automatic, it's nice to do once in a long while as it gets all the fluid out and exchanges it, which regular drain-n-fills don't do. But also be aware that it is a MASSIVE profit item for mechanics.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • Actually I shopped around for pricing on a automatic "flush". One of the local, small time (not large chain) lube places had the best pricing. They took off the pan, cleaned it, changed the filter, put on a new gasket and then disconnected the pipe to the radiator cooling tank and kept on adding fluid until it ran out clean. As mentioned above, just "draining" doesn't work because the torque converter pools about 1/4 of the fluid and that doesn't "drain"... so you have to run the vehicle and have the new fluid "pump" though until it come out clean and pink. It was about $CDN 115 but there was LOTS of fluid pumped through the tranny.

    Oh... the other thing that I do is about every 25 000 I add a slippery/slidey "conditioner" that cleans and lubricated the valves and pumps. I sometimes got a clunk when shifting... and this always smoothed things out. Again... only about $8 and likely worth it.

    So... shop around for pricing and ask them exactly what they do... if it is just drain and fill... it doesn't change ALL the fluid. Ask around... /denis
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    Typical mechanic scam - dont fall for it! There is no requirement in the owners manual to change the auto transmission oil EVER. Or even the filter. The 1979 Chevy Silverado pickup truck I gave my brother in law at 250k miles now has 350k miles on it and the transmission oil is origional. (three engines though) A typical auto trans has like 10 qts of oil in it mostly for hydraulic power transmission issues NOT for lubrication. Mechnaics dreamed up the "power flush" thing to dupe gullible motorists. As you say your runs fine without any "flushes" at all.
  • Maybe mechanics are recommending "flushes" nowdays because the darn cheap transmissions are blowing up (I don't know about the reliability of the Toyota trannies). BTW, the 1979 Chevy truck transmission (likely a Powerglide) were INDESTRUCTIBLE... not like the flimsy ones they put in cars since the 90s. Do what you think you should... but if a tranny is known to blow up at 120K or whatever... I'm still ahead by doing 2 or 3 flushes by 300K... and no surprises nor downtime on holidays etc.
  • 2001 echo 5spd 100 thou miles. Had clutch and throwout bearing replaced...think the preasure plate as well but dont remember for sure. With clutch out in gear or at idle there is a loud growling noise. Noise is so loud it can be heard about the engine at any speed. I thought it muswt be tranny going...I did read where a bad preasure plate can make noise as well...any guesses
  • I forgot to mention that the clutch is jerky and it is hard to get smooth starts now. That wasnt the problem before the clutch was replaced....thats why I think maybe it isn't the tranny
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,680
    Sounds like a bad clutch job to me. 100k miles is not a lot for a clutch, and it is very low for a manual tranny. If the noise wasn't there before the clutch job, it shouldn't be there now. There are a few things they can screw-up on a clutch job, and it sounds like the bearing was not installed correctly. Is it making noise in neutral, clutch released (foot off), or specifically when? Pressure plate should have been changed, but yes, this could cause problems too. Let us know specifically when you have the noise, and when you don't.
  • no noise when clutch is engaged....just the opposite of throwout bearing (or so Ive been told.) Noise is when foot is off the clutch...even in neutral. This all started when we DID have a bad throwout bearing so clutch was replaced at same time...It is my daughters car. I willl have to check with her to see if presure plate was changed. Now to get a smooth launch you have to slip the clutch a lot...there goes that clutch....or it jerks a couple times.
  • '03 auto w/63K miles. when start in cold weather seems reluctant to shift out of first gear until it warms up a tad. what is this?
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