GMC Jimmy Electrical System
mikesmith06
Member Posts: 4
in GMC
Hi,
Anyone out there have any tell tale signs of how to know if you alternator is going, I have a gut feeling that mine is going but no way to prove it, anything helps.... ps after I deal with this issue I will be installing my 2nd set of front hub and ball bearing assembly, you think a recall would be done or some kind of class action suit against this makes me sick oh well....
Anyone out there have any tell tale signs of how to know if you alternator is going, I have a gut feeling that mine is going but no way to prove it, anything helps.... ps after I deal with this issue I will be installing my 2nd set of front hub and ball bearing assembly, you think a recall would be done or some kind of class action suit against this makes me sick oh well....
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thanks for the reply, I found the flasher behind the glovebox in the lower RH corner, apparently somehow my hazard switch got bumped when I trip the hazard switch one way I have my turn signals back and can feel the flasher clicking but in other position I have no turn signals or hazards I can feel the flasher relay click slightly when I engage the hazard. any idea if the same flasher relay runs the hazards as well, it appears maybe that part of the circuit is malfunctioning.
Re: starting issues it has a trailer plug in that has been on the truck since my dad bought it but no recent additions not sure about the security light I tried turning the alarm on & off when it occurs but doesn't seem to change anything.
my dad passed away last year so unfortuantly I can't ask him anymore. I saw someone mention the key switch on one forum, but it happens so randomly it's wierd.
thanks for helping out I was suspecting the turn signal switch assy maybe I just need the flasher/hazard? relay
the culprit to my problem becomes apparent the plus side battery terminal was ever so slightly loose and had some corrosion that wasn't apparent from the outside, but it was just enough to give me a bad connection and intermitant problems. feel somewhat stupid I didn't find it before that
but thought I'd pass on the info.
the Jimmy didn't act like it was a battery ( no clicking solinoid or slow cranking or the usual symptoms )
I cleaned the terminals with some baking soda & water and then rubbing alchohol put some new anti corrosion washers on. and wala 14 volt reading on the voltmeter without changing out the alternator (with the Jimmy running).
check your battery connections, unbolt them and make sure they are clean without any corrosion if corroded clean with baking soda and water an old toothbrush works good to apply and scrub it clean, I added some anti-corrosion washers from the parts store. my positive cable was ever so slightly loose combined with the corrosion that had formed it was enough to cause me intermittant starting problems and eventually a charging problem. its simple enough and doesn't cost much of anything if thats the culprit.
if you have a voltmeter check for 12 volts at the battery cables, and you should see about 14 when running.
:mad:
Thanks
Does anyone have any instructions on how to replace this light? Most importantly, how to get to where the wires "plug in"?
Thank you
Any help would be very appreciated, thank you.
Thank you
There are many other things such as the heater fan doesn't work in position four but does work in position 1 - 3. (That just began a few days ago). I am looking for wiring diagrams for this but don't know where to find them.
Anyway, if somebody has an idea about the instrument failures, please let me know.
Thanks.
Have you had the fuel injectors checked? Mass air flow sensor? Is it six cylinders? Does the "check engine light" come on? Has it come on at all? If it does, have the codes read by your mechanic, or a local Autozone will read the codes for free. It could be an electrical problem as well, maybe a bad harness sending to the injectors.
Good luck
My ABS light stays on constantly, infact it is the wheel speed sensor that is bad. The only problem with that is that it is riveted in place not screwed or bolted it says in my book. Any advice on how to remove it without doing too much damage.
Oh it is 4.3l vortec with around 140,000 miles. If that helps.
Thanks for the input.
If that is the case, find a good electronics guy to clean and resolder. Then anchor the harness to the firewall with wire ties to prevent reoccurence.
Jim
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SUVs and Smart Shopper
To test for a drain, disconnect the battery cable at the negative post and bridge a 12 V test light across them. If it shines brightly, then you probably don't have a drain. If it's slightly dimmed that may just be normal current driving thing like a clock. You can methodically remove fuses one by one (checking the test light each time) to see which component may be at fault.
If none of that pans out then have your alternator checked.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper