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GMC Yukon Reduced Engine Power message



  • I was just waking up when I heard this so some Information may not be accurate. But I DID hear them talking about how GM cars from I think 2004 up have been having issues with the engine cutting out while driving,, caused over 70 deaths, blah, blah, blah,, hopefully they figured out what the issue is and hopefully my car will be fixed. My anxiety has been so out of control having to drive this car on the highway for work everyday,, wondering when I am going to get killed. It happened again the other day, during a bad snow storm,, yup,, that was AWSOME,,, GM,, you suck!! Never again,,

  • I just checked and of course my Impala is not included in the recall,, unfair!!! GM,, you suck!! Going to trade y car,, never will I buy another GM product again,,,

  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251

    Hello All,

    If you have any questions regarding any open recalls on your vehicles, please feel free to send us an email to with your VIN included. We will be glad to look into this for you!

    Kristen A.
    GM Customer Care

  • I've already done that and it was useless. GM claims to not have had any complaints on this,,, useless!! I was told to call the national whatever it is to file a complaint,, did that and low and behold,, their system was down so they couldn't enter my complaint in,, sickening,,, just sickening. My lawyer is going to love this!!!

  • Of course my Tahoe is also not on the list. This is ridiculous already. The reduced engine power problem has been know for YEARS! Yet no one will fix it or even knows what the problem is. GM does suck. I totally fell for the commercial "my daddy's daddy had a Chevy" crap. Legacy of owning a Chevy is total crap. Never again!!
  • The worst winter in Chicago was also the worst winter with our 2004 Yukon Denali - after babying the beast for years, I have had it. The Check Engine light is on continually, the Reduced Power due to the Stability Control occurred Friday evening on the I94 with 4 kids in the car - almost gave me a heart attack. I read the posts from 06 and will bring to a reputable mechanic to check with Wiring Plugs on the Throttle Body, Front Abs Sensors. I was trying to get another 2 years out of the Yukon - but at this point, I will sell it for parts and buy a Ford. Between this and the Brake Lines snapping last summer - I am done. You would think GMC would be forthright on what people are reporting as "potential problems" and what they suggest as preventative measures that should be taken especially with late model vehicles. My truck wears with honor the badges of the places we have visited - ski trips, family vacations, road trips hauling the boat. This is leaving a nasty taste in my mouth and I am looking at other trucks instead of going back to the one I have enjoyed for so many years. 2 Potential Life threatening incidents in one year is a tough pill to swallow.

  • lalaleezalalaleeza Posts: 10
    Well this morning on good morning America they were saying GM is under investigation for another recall issue where the ignition switch fails and can cause death. The govt wants to find out what GM knew and when about this problem. I say their whole recall process needs the same treatment. They have known about this for YEARS and yet refuse to do anything. After we the people bail the auto makers out they have the audacity to just say, "sorry". Sorry isn't good enough for me when every time I try to drive my car I am wondering if I am buckling my children into a death trap!
  • squekiesquekie Posts: 2
    edited April 2014

    '09 Yukon XL Denalli I too had this exact same problem as so many have mentioned. At first the "On Star" lady put me on the line with a GM Tech. They sent a tow truck , once at the Dealer I got a loaner truck . On Star Tech told me Throdle Body Housing and wiring , Dealer said the same thing, but gave me the not covered runaround. I walked over to the Ser. Mng. told him I had the extended Warranty and I DO NOT need this type of run around . I was advised to take the Truck and would be called the next day ? Strange I thought ? But to his word he called said it would take a week for parts ect. and I have a 100 deductible. I can live with that , so I looked up what was going on in this site and was SHOCKED . I feel lucky as Hell I am going to file with the NHTSA but thanking my lucky stars it didn't happen on one of the super busy Hwy. here around ATL. Yes I got it back in 7 days and charged $100.00

  • GM has known for years about the problems with these engines, but unless you bought your car after the bailout then GM doesn't have to do anything. It is the owners loss. Even after the bailout GM will most likely never do anything about the issues for the people who were unfortunate enough to purchase a GM truck. GM will not stand behind its products only its profits....same with the dealers.

  • lalaleezalalaleeza Posts: 10
    Ok so with all the recalls issued lately and all the known about problems that's GM didn't recall when are they going to recall the problem that we on this thread are having? C'mon GM. I KNOW YOU READ THIS THREAD! I know this because a GM rep has replied on here directly to me about my problem. You have known about this for years! Just like the ignition switch problem. I think we as consumers need to hold these corporations accountable for their products!!
  • squekiesquekie Posts: 2

    Sorry this site will not let meEdit my post. I want everyone to have the correct Info. this is a 2009 Youkon XL Denalli with 77,000mls when this problem happened.

  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    edited April 2014

    @squekie, I edited your post to change the date.

    So, I assume the dealer got the parts in for you by now. Any more issues?

  • lalaleezalalaleeza Posts: 10
    Sqekie, I am so glad that your problem has been fixed. However, I have paid my vehicle off and there is no longer an extended warranty for not only me but many others. GM has had complaints and this is potentially a life threatening problem. It was swept under the rug just like the ignition switch problem. I constantly get the runaround from GM. It's not right. The ignition switch problem is just one of I'm sure many problems GM has not addressed. It's truly frustrating.
  • isalisal Posts: 1

    I have to say that my 2002 Denali just did the same power lost thing you guys are talking about. You all helped me fix the problem free. I just got back from Charleston SC and now know why I had the problem. The roads are like a washboard and loosened my battery cable or cables. I tightened the cables, started the truck and has been fine for 2 days. Make sure you buy a side post battery wrench or you will never get the cables tight......Thanks again I isAL

  • 07xl07xl Posts: 1

    I have a 07 yukon xl and this just happened to my wife(loss of power and service stabilitrack). I checked on you tube for a fix and got several, looks like it may be faulty wiring on the throttle body.

  • So iv been having the same issue, So far i have replaced the TAC Mod, gas peddle, Tac wiring and throttle body. It is very aggravating to spend so much on a car only to know its going to fail on you!!!
  • Good evening. I have been following this thread for quite a while now..I too have had the same issues out of my '03 GMC Yukon XL with 336,000 miles on the ticker. I have also changed Every Sensor, Wiring Harness, tightened every bolt for the battery, replaced the throttle body, MAS, TPS, PPS, CPS, 2 fuel pumps and any other "S" i could have thought of.. only to have the same message pop up of Reduced Engine Power...Now then...after reading all 21 pages of comments...Now My issues only occur with the Outside air temps dipping below 50*. it happened to me last year and now this winter as well. Yet I had one good day in the 70's and that was the day i replaced all 4 of my O2 sensors and test drove it for well over 2 hours without a hiccup only for it to rear its ugly head the very next day when the temps dropped into the 50's yet again..So ..My final thoughts are the Computer which i have found one and will soon purchase after Christmas...Anyone thought of this as a Fix to our issues yet ? P.S. i too went to the dealerships to have them tell me No Known Recalls or issues of any sort with our "beloved" Yukon's
  • Re: bonddog Posts: 6
    August 2006 in GMC
    I purchased my 2006 Yukon last September 2005. I now have 24,000 miles on it.

    I, too, am having the same problem with my Denali. Mine is a 2003 and as it's now January of 2015 this is obviously not a new vehicle; rather, it's paid for and the budget doesn't allow for a new vehicle at present. That said, I have to drive it! I also use it as delivery 'truck' for my flower shop (for the bigger things) so I have to make it work. I am wondering if, in these years past, you ever found a solution to this problem and what it was. I have had the fuel pump replaced, the mechanic did 'something' with the accelerator (I haven't a clue what!); a friend suggested that it was 'water in the fuel, some bad gas maybe' and added to my 1/2 tank of fuel SIX GALLONS of 'good' gas. Strangely, this seemed to 'fix' the problem for a while but, after a week of same fuel in the tank, it is back at doing the same thing again. I'm stressing out over this, not a lot of options in my court, so was curious what you, or anyone else, have done to fix this issue. Thanks in advance!
  • For a year now, my 05 Suburban has been going into reduced engine power mode. I have done the grounds, the wiring and new pigtail for the throttle position sensor, the entire throttle body, new gas pedal/sensor AND the throttle actuator control module (computer on the driver side firewall). I have even done a thermostat. I still have the problem. The only win so far is that I have done the work instead of paying the dealer MASS$ to be in the same boat. ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS?
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,652

    For a year now, my 05 Suburban has been going into reduced engine power mode. I have done the grounds, the wiring and new pigtail for the throttle position sensor, the entire throttle body, new gas pedal/sensor AND the throttle actuator control module (computer on the driver side firewall). I have even done a thermostat. I still have the problem. The only win so far is that I have done the work instead of paying the dealer MASS$ to be in the same boat. ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS?

    What code ( s) come up when you scan or get it scanned and what do they suggest?
  • I've had the reduced engine power mode happening intermittently below 40 degrees for the last year on my 2007 Yukon Denali XL. I do not wish to play the game of throwing parts at it by some incompetent repair shop so I've read and researched for many hours! I JUST MIGHT HAVE THE BEGINNINGS OF AN ANSWER. On one of the many forums, can't remember where, someone mentioned they felt like the butterfly was sticking on the throttle body in cold temps. He said, after warming up the engine, he would rev it several times to "loosen it". Sounded ridiculous but it has worked for me for the last 2 weeks. Now, I think the engine power reduced mode is the result of many different running issues but a lot of people complain about this during colder months. Here's a couple of my scenarios: I'm driving down the highway and I can feel it start to "miss" or faintly "cut-out" for several minutes. This is sort of a warning that shut down mode is coming. I pull over, put it in park or neutral and just rev the engine 4-6 times. Put it back in drive and get back on the road. I always make the rest of my 45 minute journey without incident. Scenario 2: it's cold outside and the check engine light comes on. Another warning sign for me that shut down mode is enivitable. I do the same procedure of pulling over, revving it 4-6 times and just go on with my travels. By doing this preemptive routine I have not had the shut down mode problem in the last 2 weeks except for one time when I had just left the house and it hadn't had sufficient warm up time to do the revving procedure yet. It seems to be a short-lived fix that doesn't last more than a couple of days but it has me feeling better about explaining to a mechanic, when I do finally take it in, as to what to look for and how I seem to fix the issue albeit temporarily. My next report will come when it is fully repaired by a "competent" shop. Hope this helps a few of you as its really a free test case diagnostic !
  • I have a 2006 Yukon XL Denali with 110k miles. I have been getting the reduced engine power for about half of that time. Changed the throttle body, throttle body sensor, and replaced the connector to the throttle body.
    Just about 2 days ago my wife was pulling into an intersection and the engine shut off! The only way she made it through was with the momentum she had. Just think if she was on the freeway coming around a corner and the engine shut off.
    I saw a recent post on this thread from a GM rep about asking for a VIN to check on a recall, This is a major safety issue so I am also going to put in a complaint with the NHTSA because I know I will get nothing useful back from the GM rep except or me to take it to a GM dealer. I know there has been talk for years, just go back in this thread and you'll find it, about a CLASS ACTION. If there is someone on here that know about one please add contact me, I really don't have confidence that GM will help, just keep pushing us off.
    I will not buy another GM vehicle, especially if GM doesn't nothing with this, which I don't think they won't.
    Lets see what they tell me.
  • Hello evryone, I have a 01 Yukon XL. I was experiencing the reduced engine power message on my D.I.C. went to oreilys had it put on the diagnosis tester and had a code for accelerator pedal sensor. I changed the accelerator pedal w/sensor ($80 part), and it fixed the reduced engine power problem.
  • dc59dc59 Posts: 2
    bonddog said:
    I purchased my 2006 Yukon last September 2005. I now have 24,000 miles on it. Over the last month I have had it into the dealer three times for the same problem. The problem is that while driving the vehicle it will suddenly lose almost all power. The Information Center will display the messages: "Stability Control Disabled", "Engine Power Reduced". And the vehicle will not go over 20 mph on a level surface and bearly 3 mph up a moderately steep hill. Each time I have had it into the dealer for repair they have beeen stumped by what the cause of the problem is. They said that GM/GMC told them that "GM is aware of the problem but does not have a fix for it at this time". How can a manufacturer sell a vehicle that has a defect and not have a fix for it? When the power goes out in a busy intersection or on a highway this is a major safety issue. Has anyone else experienced this problem. Thanks, Steve

  • dc59dc59 Posts: 2
    HELLO to all you mean to tell me that my 2013 malibu that im paying notes on is a does the same thing all others are doing.I prayed all the way from NC.back to D.C. taken it to the shop tomorrow..maybe I should trade it in..thanks 
  • Question. Has anyone check their ECM? I heard that the brain probably has gone bad. I experience it twice & it time I just reset the computer w/ my Diablo Tuner which has a ODBII built w/n. Let me know if this work for anyone else besides myself.
  • 32million32million Posts: 2
    edited January 2016
    2005 Yukon Denali
    I fasted and prayed about it after replacing my throttle position sensor and sensor harness, throttle body, battery, gas pedal position sensor, TB wiring harness again, cleaning the wheel speed sensors, testing the alternator, and cleaning and reconnecting the ground wires to the body.  I put my hand down by my coolant temp sensor then the engine and cooling fans went haywire.  Turns out there are two wires attached to it, one for power, and one that goes to.....guess what......TO THE THROTTLE BODY.  I replaced the coolant temp sensor and pigtail and erased the trouble codes with my code scanner.   PROBLEM SOLVED.  
    This may not work for everyone, because the other things I replaced our cleaned could be valid reasons for reduced engine power as well.  I hope I help someone.

  • Okay......that didn't work.
  • kilroy73kilroy73 Posts: 1
    edited June 2016
    Same recurring problem on my 2003 Suburban LS 5.3 4wd: Replaced Throttle Body twice (one dorman one AC Delco), Replaced Throttle body pigtail, replaced pedal twice (one dorman one AC Delco), replaced TCM, cleaned/moved/redid all the grounds.
    The local dealership here in Austin charged me for a bunch of other stuff that I didn't need so I haven't taken it there for this. But I had it in to a mechanic I trust on 4 separate occasions and after replacing a bunch of other sensors, he could find nothing wrong with it.
    Have a Diablo tuner and have tried all tunes (likes the 93 extreme tune the best but hates the GM tunes)
    Still have the problem. Will never buy another GM vehicle.
    The only thing I haven't tried is physically replacing the ecm. Might have to try that next.

    But can't afford a new car right now so if anyone has any other suggestions, aside from a gallon of gas and a road flare, let me know...
  • Hi guys I'm just here to tell you all i resolved my engine power reduced message that has been happening to my 2007 chevy suburban everyday for the past few weeks.Please if you are having this same problem to read my entire message before you get to what i tell you the problem should be on your vehicle as well.It has been happening at least six times or more everyday for the past few weeks.If you have the same problem hopefully this will help.First i got a new pedal because everytime the message came up on the dash and i plug in my diagnostics tool to the chip outlet under the steering wheel the code always read pedal position sensor.So when i changed my pedal i thought that it was fixed but it wasn't.After that i put on a new throttle body and that still didn't work.The Last thing i did because believe me this was getting on all of my nerves but the last thing i did was every time the engine power reduce message comes up the last couple of times i pulled and pushed a little on the THROTTLE BODY WIRING HARNESS WIRES/CONNECTOR you can hear a clicking in the engine and my suburban would rev up or down.The reason why i put that in capital letters because this is the root of the problem.I went to the dealership to get a THROTTLE BODY WIRING HARNESS CONNECTOR no autoparts stores had it so i had no choice but i paid 55 dollars and i made sure the wires were copper(brown like a penny) on the inside of the wire covering.DO NOT i repeat DO NOT get the connector with aluminum(silver like a nickel) wires.Aluminum wires expand while heated and shrinks when cool.That is the reason why myself and others have had problems with EPR(engine power reducing)in the weather with this aluminum wiring Aluminum wiring sucks.After i got my throttle body wiring harness connector with COPPER wiring i went home and started up so under the hood i went since i know a little something about wiring and automotive work i figured this should be easy.It was easy for me just time consuming.Before i started i looked at the OLD wiring harness which was still connected and saw at the other end past the tape and old crimps that the wires were different colors so i labeled the NEW throttle body wiring harness wires with yellow tape and wrote with a black marker which NEW wire connects to the colored wires according to the OLD throttle body wiring harness.So i cut the wires to the old throttle body wiring harness connector as a matter of fact i cut past the crimps.The crimps are the little sleeves that came with the new throttle body wiring harness connector.You will not need those because they tend to get moisture in them which is not good because moisture in wires will cause it to not function properly or they might just slip loose after time.Or if you do decide to use the new crimps just make sure you put a very tight seal over them so no moisture won't get in but i prefer SOLDERING the wires together.They have youtube videos on soldering wires together if you have never done it.Here is the link to one video

    ...............So that's the route i went but before i did that and when i cut the old throttle body wiring harness off and when i took the tape off the old crimps and the tape that was covering it was sticky wet sort of speak.That's the moisture i was talking about.Something also told me that this has been done before to this truck of mine but they didn't use nothing but regular electrical tape to seal the wires after they crimped them.Idecided i was gonna use silicone tape which adheres to itsef i applied that after the soldering of the wires.I'm sure there is other things to use at high temps. under the hood but that's my choice.Now the time consuming stage i was talking about is soldering maybe because i did it under the hood and i had to maneuver a bit while under there but it was worth it.I actually put a piece of board under the wires while i was soldering so none of the heated solder would fall down onto other parts.So after i was done soldering and let the solder dry onto the wires which did not take long i applied this other tape before the silicone tape.I don't know the name of it i had it for quite a while it actually popped up in my tool box but this kind of tape was black on top and white at the bottom the white part looked liked threads almost.I don't think it matters because the silicone tape itself would work.So applied the tapes i actually applied a good bit around each wire at first and then i applied the tape around the whole group of wires together.The silicone tape stretches like rubber so you can pull it tight to get a good seal.I test drove my truck i been driving it for a full week now and not one engine reduced power message at all.My truck has actually been riding like it was when i first purchased it.No hesitation no rough idle i been on a two hour trip.There and back and was still riding around in the upper 90 degree temps outside.That was the problem guys I hope this helps all of you or at least some.I apologize for the book i wrote lol!One more thing please for some that don't know please DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY before you try this if you are doing it yourself and don't know much about under the car.I have pics of my old throttle body wiring harness connector and a pics of the new one that's already connected if you scroll down to my name reduced solved.Take care
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