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Hyundai Azera Maintenance and Repair



  • gamlegedgamleged Posts: 442
    According to the owner's manual the key fob takes a Lithium CR2032 battery. I note that has a 5-pack of these for $1.64 with free shipping...
  • cobrazeracobrazera Posts: 352
    edited August 2010
    It appears that the " reprogramming required " by the dealer on the keyfob battery replacement is just another scam intended to gouge we owners.
    My keyfob has been dead for 4-5 months, and, thanks to gamleged and rminor I purchased (5) Sony CR2032 from dealextreme for $2.07 dlvd, installed one with ease, and my keyfob now works again.
    BTW, every time I go to the dealer for an oil change, the service manager parades a filthy cabin filter out to me with a recommendation to change it.
    I replaced my original filter with a cut up/doctored home air conditioning filter a while back. Lo and behold, the filter I was shown by the service manager last month was a heavily used stock Hyundai filter - go figure.
  • wobbly_earswobbly_ears Posts: 160
    edited August 2010
    Yep, you are blessed with a scummy dealer.

    There's no need to 'reprogram' your keyfob if the battery dies. Just replace the battery & you're good to go. Reprogramming is ONLY required if you have lost your key & they have to make a new one from a blank.

    And replace the cabin filter only at 10k & you can do it yourself.

    Take your business elsewhere. Your dealer is an A grade cheat. Do you really want them to work on your car?
  • cobrazeracobrazera Posts: 352
    Besides this dealer, the nearest one is close to 50 miles away. The only business they get from me is an occasional oil change when they're running a $19.95 LOF special. The kicker is that I used to work there, part time, as a driver.
  • rminorrminor Posts: 40
    I get my oil changed at Walmart. At least I can watch through the service bay window and see that they're using the Mobil1 oil and new filter I'm paying for. If your dealer is low enough to show you a cabin filter that's not from your car I sure wouldn't trust them to be actually installing a new filter or even new oil. Turn in a report to the BBB.
  • cobrazeracobrazera Posts: 352
    edited August 2010
    Maybe it's a regional thing, I don't know, but I can tell you that here in the MD/DC/VA area, the service departments are saying that the Azeras are coming with synthetic oil already in them.
    I was going through all these old posts for info on a problem I now have ( not related to oil/engine ), and thought I'd give my $.02 on this post. I have read that synthetic oils do not "oxidize" over time like regular oils, and hence the time recommendation for oil change does not apply to synthetics.
    I put about 2500 miles per year on my 1999 Mustang Cobra, and get the oil changed once per year - in the fall before it is stored for the winter. I always use Mobil 1, and have had no problems.
    I could also surmise that since Hyundai has no idea how long a new car will sit on the lot before being sold ( plus the transit time from Korea ), as the explanation of synthetic oil installation at the factory.
  • manoharmanohar Posts: 12
    Has anyone replaced the spark plugs as part of 100,000 mile maintenance? Is it tricky? I am wondering if I should do it myself or take it to a dealer!
  • You know you have to R&R the intake manifold to do the back three plugs. If you've done automotive engine work you should be able to handle it. I would make sure I had a new intake manifold gasket in case the old one tears. ;)
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    edited October 2010
    As SilverBullet00 states, you have to take the manifold off (as well as a few other things) to get to the 3 plugs in the rear. If you take it to the dealer, they want around $250 to change the plugs. You may be able to find a mechanic that can do it for less, but like SilverBullet00 also says, have the gasket replaced as well. Even if the old one doesn't tear, it's always good to put a new gasket on. ;)

    I've done the brakes oil changes on my Azera over the 95k miles I've had it, but the plugs...I'm going to defer to a mechanic. I just have to decide if I'm going with double platinum plugs or if I'm going with the iridium plugs. :confuse:
  • My dealer wants to replace the plugs at 60k and charge $850.00 for this supposed "Major Service" Is it some times necessary to replace the plugs at this mileage? I just did the 45k and had to talk him down from $295.00 by demanding he only do the service required in the manual. So I was quoted $150.00 with a tire rotation. I waited for the car. they told me that several seals were leaking, oil,transmission, and axle. all this will be done under the warranty Monday. Then they said they would only charge me $79.00 for the service because I was a valued customer.

    I like this dealer and he has been fair in the past, although now their recommended service prices on the board do not list all these extra things they want to do.I imagine most dealers are trying to pad the service items since these cars really don't need much done, right?

    Anyway it seemed to me when they realized they couldn't get more money out of me they decided to drum up some warranty business, although I have noticed some oil leaking slightly in my driveway.

    When I had an Audi I just paid what they asked and never compared with what was actually required. Maybe they were doing the same thing. This is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to have to bargain to get only what is necessary done. I almost feel like going to a gas station next time. Probably less money and less hassle.
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    you're getting screwed...???? plugs should be good for over 75k miles.or longer...check the warranty service booklet....there should be no charge for warranty repairs find a new dealer
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    I would's plugs are designed to last at least 100K miles. Also, considering how much they will charge you (more than $200), it seems like a ploy to get you to spend money.
  • jkolehjkoleh Posts: 38
    Noticed the dreaded slit in the top of the dash--about 2 inches--had it replaced under warranty with no problems from dealer---they are getting better--BTW, if you acccidentally leave your trunk cracked and don;t notice or drive the car for two weeks, your battery will be dead---no surprise. Don;t ask me how I know.
  • I have a 2007 Azera. Does it have a timing belt or chain?
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Timing chain.
  • Thanks for your prompt reply, this wwill save me a lot of worry on my trip to Florida.
  • jkolehjkoleh Posts: 38
    Well, three years and one month of ownership, the battery in my 2007 Azera Ltd died. How can they time the demise so closely? Any warrenty died a month ago.

    lol love the car,though
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    Korean batteries aren'tmuch..Have replaced mine with Interstate Platinum..great battery for the price and warranty
  • My car would not start Monday. I didn't drive it on Sunday. I don't think I left anything on. I had it checked after a jump and the gas station says it looks strong. I will have to watch it. My experience is that these battery "checks" really don't tell you anything. Had an Audi A6 once that they kept telling me the battery was fine. Kept going dead. Problem solved when battery replaces. what exactly does the test show?
  • jamazerajamazera Posts: 149
    drive to either Advance Auto,Pep Boys, or Auto Zone and have them check your battery and charging system..they can determine CCA's and check the charging system only takes a few minutes and it's free...Cold Cranking Amps will determine the ability of the battery to maintain a charge..fully charged it should be ~ 13.0-13.5 volts...the CCA's should be on the battery case..CCA's considerably lower thatn that specified indicates a failing or failed battery..they can also test your alternator for output.... heat, freezing cold and not maintaining a charge are reasons for a lot of battery deaths
  • SilverBullet00SilverBullet00 Posts: 102
    edited November 2010
    Happy Thanksgiving to all Azera forum members. :) :)
  • Replacing batttery today. 3.5 years old is long enough.
  • >> BTW, if you acccidentally leave your trunk cracked and don;t notice or
    >> drive the car for two weeks, your battery will be dead---no surprise.

    I've had my battery go dead overnight twice on me for no apparent reason. Once recharged, it's fine. It's got to be a dome light or a trunk light. The trunk doesn't always latch unless it's shut with some force.

    There's really no excuse for any of this. My bottom-of-the-line 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix had a control function that would turn off ANYTHING draining the battery after 15 minutes of inactivity. Can't tell you how many times that saved my battery from running down.

    It also had a turn-signal warning bell when the turn signal was left on too long, and it had an oil remaining life monitor. In addition, I could program when and how I wanted the doors to lock and unlock (I selected shifting in and out of park as my option). Every Hyundai car made over the last 10 years should have had these features as a minimum.
  • Be glad if you don't live in California. Dealer wanted more. went to a 76 station. decided against some chaeper alternatives.
  • I usually do not play CD's as I have the XM radio. Tired of all the Christmas Music, I tried to play a CD and saw this message"Checking CD". Nothing works as far as playing CD's. any ideas? Do you think when I changed the battery last month it might have screwed up the CD player? Car has 46,000 miles so I would assume no warranty on the radio anymore, right?
  • Huh? My '99 Mustang still has the original battery in it. Do you live in a hot clime? I have heard that heat is rough on batteries.
  • Whereas the manual doesn't tell you how to change a fog light, can you advise how to do it? Thanks.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    it actually takes some patience, but...the easiest way I found to do it was this...

    To start with the driver's side bulb, turn the steering wheel hard right to expose the wheel well shield towards the front. You will have to remove the fasteners that hold the shield in place towards the bottom of the wheel well...enough that you can pull it apart and slide your arm in. Once you've accomplished this...reach towards the front and you should be able to reach the back of the fog light. Pull the harness off of the back of the bulb, twist the bulb out of the housing, replace with new bulb and plug the harness back in.

    Sorry I don't have pics to post of this procedure. I think it'll make sense once you actually start doing it. Once you get the hang of it, it goes really quickly. If you ever have to change out the fog light housing...that requires a whole lot more more work. Let me know how it goes for you.

    Happy Holidays!!!
  • Thanks so much! As soon as the snow melts enough I'll give it a try. Happy Holidays to you, too.
  • I took my 2007 Azerea with 98,000 miles on it to the Hyundai dealership today for service. The dealership called and said I had an engine seal oil leak, and that Hyundai was not going to fix it under the 100,000 mile warranty because it was not a gasket, Hyundai used some other method in the engine seals. They said it was going to be $1,600 to fix it! Has anyone else heard of this? And what difference would it be that it wasn't a gasket?
This discussion has been closed.