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Chrysler 300M Starting/Stalling problems



  • So I finally broke down and went to the auto shop and after replacing, my coil (4), battery,spark plugs, cam sensor and my fuel pump come to find out it was my crank sensor the whole time. So.if your 300m just cuts off while your driving you might.wanna check.that out before spending a bunch of money.
  • bronx300 : Drop your entire mailing address into : ( - without brackets , and I will send you the entire 99-04 300M Chrysler Service Manuals in the mail asap.

    You will not be sorry you did , as I will NOT use your address for anything else , nor share it. These are Technician Service Manuals , that specifically instruct the technician what must be done , what is involved , every single facet of a diagnosis and / or repair. You could expect to pay hundreds of dollars for these , as they are completely thorough , and NOT knockoff's , they are direct from Chrysler and contain authentication certificates / application documentations. They are complete copies off of the design bench.

    Whereas , you will NOT be able to flip through them like you might a Chilton or Haynes manual. Using Adobe Reader 9 etc. , you will notice sections as large as 6000+ pages. Huge , huge manuals which include everything from troubleshooting to schematics.

    Depending on your location , I have a copy already made , so you could have it (free) within a week or less. I originally made a copy to ensure that I didn't lose it from my computer , which would be a great loss. I'll flip it into the mail as soon as I get the information required to do so. I gaurantee you won't believe how much information is in these manuals.

    I have had these manuals for over 6 months and still don't have the time to figure out an approx. volume size (over 10,000 pages at least).
  • Hello my 300 will not start.It turns over but wont start up,IDK what to do. I came home from work one evening filled up with gas parked it for the night,next day will not start tryed everything what should i do?
  • loualloual Posts: 4
    I turn key so the dash lights come on and the dinging sound starts.
    Do nothing until dinging stops.
    Then turn key to start car.
    Also I use a bottle of fule line cleaner about $8 each tankful
    Above works for me.
    Good luck to you
  • Hi,
    I have a 99 300m with 230,000 miles on it. When i drive long distances say like a half hour away from my house and back it won't start if i go to turn it off and then back on. I try to turn it on and the car wont roll over. I can't even do errands in this car because of this. Lately it has been happening frequently. I am so afraid i will get stuck i wont even turn my car off at the gas station because this has happened to me there before. Sometimes i can get it to start if i pump the gas pedal while turning the key in the ignition. It will only start if it sits for like an hour or so then i can get it to start. The check engine light comes on every now and then when it happens, then goes away eventually. I was told it was the fuel pump from a friend who had a similar problem. Help, what is this??
  • I have been having this problem since July 2011....I read somewhere that if you turn the car off and then turn the key on and off about three times in succession, without actually turning the key far enough to turn the engine over, the car will start. I have done performed this remedy on three occasions and it works like a charm. I have not had to walk home recently.....only to return to my car an hour later and have it start. I have brought the car in and no one can seem to find anything wrong with it.
  • Thanks, i will have to try this. Hopefully it works for me!
  • I have a 2000 300m one day I go to start the car and it started right up and died. So I tried to start it 2 more times and it started and died right away. The starter tested good. I checked all the fuses and relays also. I checked the fuel and fuel pump. When I turn the key the only light that comes on the dash is the red oil light no abs light no battery light or anything. I got another ecm and it then started 3 times and died and then I tried one more and nothing just like before I changed it. The cars lights work and power windows and locks work. If it matters I do have a grey key with a chip. One guy told me it could be the chip in the key went bad can that be my problem. Please help.
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    I remember I found a site that showed me how to turn the key 3xs without starting the car so that I could get the trouble code on the dash, it turned out my crank sensor was bad. Had it replaced along with the cam sensor and the car started and ran good ever since. Hope this helps.
  • pitmanoeuvrepitmanoeuvre Posts: 68
    edited April 2012
    Given your descriptions of the problem , you should be mostly concentrated on the fact that your entire dash cluster of sensor lights are not illuminating when the key is moved into the run position prior to actually starting the engine.

    The very first thing to do is to disconnect the fender ground connection and inspect the battery / including mainly it's cables. If the battery power cable is hard as a rock / unflexible , nearest the battery , it is time to splice a 12" section onto the cable terminals , or replace the entire cable. This can and does account for alot on a vehicle with a massive or sensitive electrical system. At this point , if this condition exists , there is no point checking any of the PDC relays or fuses. It is possible that your (ASD Relay) Automatic Shutdown Relay is working as normal , where the voltage is either inconsistent or inadequate. The ASD Relay is in the (PDC) Powertrain Control Center , where you will also find at least 1 power cable connected. It must be free of rust and corrosion. The PDC plastic cover should indicate where the ASD Relay is. Simply measuring a voltage at the ASD Relay contacts could tell you alot , but the ASD Relay itself must also conduct whatever voltage is input into it as well. Any time there is a fluctuation or problem in the electrical system , the ASD Relay shuts the system down.

    Given that the engine starts , that indicates that there isn't any "on engine" sensor problems , although there may be wiring problems / conductivity. Something as simple as a transmission position sensor , could also cause a fault in the electrical system , where the ASD Relay will be triggered. The transmission position sensor must pass the startup electrical procedure , as all of the sensors must. This is why it is very important that you see the maximum of lights light up when you turn the key to the on/run position. Starting by checking the battery fill and power output , and all of it's related cables and connections , can provide you with lights in the dash lighting up after you make changes. That would confirm why the engine is starting up , and then being shut down repeatedly.

    Bad battery cables are the most common reasons why electrical problems exist , and even a tester connected to the vehicle at a garage cannot perform properly , or display a proper diagnosis without adequate power from the battery etc. Usually the first 2 feet of both battery cables are the problem , as they are corroding at one end , and being heated by the engine/exhaust at the other within 2 feet. This creates a void where electrical current is irratic / inadequate / non-existent or too variable for the vehicle's electrical system to ignore as "normal".

    The worst case scenario I have ever seen hidden , was on a semi tractor , where 2 full feet of cables were stuck together as a result of friction between the 2 cables. Bare cable of 1 cable was touching the other full time and accounted for minor intermittent problems as well as a lack of electrical power. In a 4 battery linked system , everything worked but not reliably , where any problems were never diagnosed to any avail. They could only be temporarily improved. To think that those cables were making contact while over 300 gallons of diesel capacity was within a few feet , speaks volumes about actually taking any wrapping or securing apparatus from these cables to ensure they are in good condition where they come together. Assuming that a meter can tell you otherwise is not the answer , where the vehicle has had radio/amplifier/lighting and starting problems , usually coupled with constant battery and alternator problems. These sections are the heart of any electrical system.

    The effect is that the alternator voltage cannot get to the battery to maintain the battery's charge or state of charge , and the battery's voltage cannot provide the electrical system with a consistent and necessary voltage that is constantly monitored and regulated by electrical circuits/components/computers etc. The exact same symptoms many owners have can be repeated , by connecting a very bad battery to the vehicle and driven. No charging can occur regardless of any electrical cables or wiring , due to a faulty battery. This makes it so that your dash lights may be dim , your turn signals may not function correctly (they do not flash simultaneously) , your radio/stereo is faint , your starter turns over slowly , your engine coil or coils do not produce enough power to allow a proper spark through the spark plugs to the engine cylinders/gas mixture injection etc. etc. The vehicle will probably chug , have poor braking or steering on vehicles equipped with electrical assist or sensors , and in general be a pain in the butt. Always having some sort of problem.

    The code for an ASD Relay problem or shutdown is : P1388 on a 2000 300m. In a case where the starter solenoid no longer clicks or is charged with power , where the starter was turning previously , you have yet another hidden connection that is faulty within the solenoid. You can determine this with a fully charged or new battery , where the solenoid suddenly clicks or the starter begins to turn. But after repeating the process the more powerful battery will allow you to determine that the solenoid has a short connection internally. Just 2 small wires can cause an immediate reaction from the ASD Relay , where no power will any longer reach the solenoid as well. Measuring the voltage to the solenoid is of no concern , what is of concern is that the solenoid is shorted , causing an ASD Relay shutdown. Even while the starter motor itself is still good.
  • loualloual Posts: 4
    I just learned that when you turn the key to on position the fule pump
    runs for 2 seconds. It was suggested I do this 2 or 3 times before starting.
    It's working.
    Someone mentioned cam / crankshaft sensors..I just got a code for one of them. I'm having them replaced also the O2 sensor.
  • ndavies1ndavies1 Posts: 1
    I was wondering if i could get a copy of the full Chrysler Technician Service Manuals ..let me know i am having a problem with my car not starting
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    I would suggest you try looking for it on ebay or if you have a auto used parts yard where you can go and pull the part yourself, you may be able to find a 300m that still has a manual in it.
  • pitmanoeuvrepitmanoeuvre Posts: 68
    edited June 2012
    Please , DO NOT MAKE ME LAUGH ! A owner's manual is NOT what I am offering to other fellow 300M owners. I am offering the actual Chrysler Service Technician's Manual which are over 10,000 pages long and legal sized sheets. As it is right now I am working on placing the manuals for download in several places , but for now I will send the entire collection (this pile would be feet thick) , to anyone who provides me with their email address (no spamming intended etc. - forgotten) through my yahoo. Yahoo now provides provision for up to 2gb email attachments to be sent , with the NEW YAHOO version. The manuals compile into approx. 400mb , which the old classic version does not allow. I am also sending the manuals on disk by snailmail to addresses free of charge to let others see these things. For example : brakes / 1699 pages. Let me know if you want them as I cannot as of yet (too busy) to upload them to another place (link). Make no mistake , I AM GIVING THESE AWAY FREE. YES , I said "free" , and I don't spam , collect , save or use email addresses for my business. I have no time for that.
  • tfiltztfiltz Posts: 1
    I am interested in the free Chrysler Service Technicians Manual. Please of course.
  • I recently attempted to use the 2gb of new Yahoo Mail to attach the entire manuals (400+mb) , but discovered that the system only allows limited numbers of attachments (IE: 15 at a time etc.) , so attaching 40 or 50 seperate PDF's into emails is a chore. It's best to trust me , and send me an email containing your street or business address , so that a complete original copy on disk can be sent to you. This disk can then be loaded into any computer , copied , and used on a laptop in a garage etc. Otherwise , it is a very laborious task to send these by email. At the same time , I discovered a cost of just 1 original Chrysler Service Manual for the 1999 300M was $85 US dollars + shipping & tax. So... what I am offering includes 300M's / Intrepids & Concordes , for 5+ years in their entirety. I still to this day have no idea how many pages there are.

    Since I do not get many people asking for these indepth manuals , very unlike Haynes , where the information is NOT coming directly from Chrysler instructions , I can afford to drop these in the mail for those who do want them (FREE) for a few dollars / disk. From my point of view , that isn't much money , to be able to share what is definately very huge in terms of technical reading. All you have to do is send an email to : - and include the destination address where you would like the disk to be mailed to. No solicitation , emails , offers , or any other spam type emails other than a confirmation directly from me will arrive in your email box , or at your chosen address. This is the best way , as my computer is creating flawless copies that work just as well as the original I have. Don't hesitate to ask for this , because I have only sent 1 disk via snailmail to date , to someone who absolutely wanted the manuals , and gave me an address to mail to. That's all that is required.
  • Hello! We are going to go crazy if we can not start my 2000 300M. Timing belt, waterpump, 3 sensors, a relay so far have all been replaced. Everything is connecting. It just isn't catching a spark. It wants to start but just won't. It even has had the battery jumped off. I am desperate. Our family depends on this vehicle. Is there anyway that you could send me a copy of the manual you are speaking of? We have a Haynes manual but I don't why it's like it just isn't enough info. I thank you for any help you give in advanced.
  • pitmanoeuvrepitmanoeuvre Posts: 68
    edited August 2012
    jatwil42 : Any time any engine that almost starts , sputters or whatever - I always do 2 things. The very first , is to pull out any spark plug and attach it to a clamping device (I make my own) which will allow you to rebolt the clamp onto a grounding surface (preferably the engine block) , so that you can have a helper attempt to spot any spark coming from the coil , when the engine is being cranked over. For safety's sake , it would be best to mark and remove all coils/spark plugs , so that the engine will not start in the process. Nothing like having an engine start with 1 wire sparking outside the motor. That's not really safe. In alot of cases , you can get a shock from the wire or boot too , it happened to me and nearly killed me. I was holding a wire off of a high performance engine which had the large size Accel Supercoil , and was running. I got out of the car to check a sputter , but should have shut it off before laying my hand on the inner fender , which just happened to be exactly where a wire had jumped off. I touched it and got stuck to it like magnetics. Good thing a friend was with me and pulled me off the wire. That took some guts , as those coils can produce up to 40,000 volts. In the case of the 300M , each spark plug has it's own coil , so each one may need to be done to identify a couple or a few or more coils/spark plugs which are faulty. This can also be done better at dusk or in dim lighting so that you can see any difference in the spark size (brightness). If any coil & spark plug combination produces a very dim spark (as opposed to any of the others) , chances are the coils for those cylinders are hardly working. That will cause an engine to sputter and be unable to run normally every time.

    The 2nd thing I would check is the fuel delivery system. (You must ensure that you check the spark of the plugs/coils first , as you don't want to be testing open sparks after you have opened the fuel lines , or you have gas fumes in your garage etc.) The order of testing is important. Without spark , or ample relative spark across all 6 cylinders , there is no need to question the fuel system until the spark is adequate throughout each cylinder.

    Alot of times I have found profusely blocked fuel line filters , which wouldn't allow enough fuel through them to be passed onto the injectors. This will create a no start or coughing condition at the cylinders. NOT ENOUGH GAS. On the 300M , you lift the rear seat and the fuel line filter is attached on top of the gas tank. If it appears brown or discoloured , it's been overlooked , and not changed , possibly since new. Change that in line filter and pay close attention to the directional instructions of the filter. Most have an arrow indicating the direction of fuel flow. Flow should obviously be directed to the engine.

    ***If you want the Chrysler Service manuals , it's best to get them on the CD I provide , so that you can view them in PDF format (Adobe Reader) , on a laptop or computer while you work on the car itself. About a week ago someone else took me up on my free offer , so I sent the entire 10,000+ page collection to Ohio for $2.80. It's free if the cost is under $5.00. All you have to do is send your mailing address , or the address that you want the disk to arrive at to me into my email box :

    I will send the CD out to you right away.

    **One other note : is that the 300M's computer system etc. pays close attention , and relies upon the signals coming from each spark plug etc. If just 1 of the coils or spark plugs is bad , the engine timing etc. cannot be properly calculated by the computer (electronic system etc.) , to be automatically adjusted for best performance : IE : idling. This is also why it is of the utmost importance to stick with the factory recommended spark plugs etc. I use the NGK - Laser Platinum Premium spark plugs on my 2002 300M Special (3.5L High Output Special - dual exhaust) [ NGK # ZFR5LP-13G spark plugs] Any decent parts store will caution you not to try different spark plugs , as they have had returns because of poor to bad performance. The proper spark plugs for your engine should be on the radiator / hood latch support decal. If not , check with a Chrysler dealer etc.

    Good luck
  • Starter problems solved -Now!!!

    FIRST --THE BATTERY : Charge the battery fully. See if car starts.
    2nd Clean the battery posts taking care not to reduce the size of the posts, negative post in particular
    3rd Most important -- clean the negative ground sites.. that means take a wire brush, clean off all paint, dirt, grease to the metal surface!!. Clean the negative ground site on all the negative cables, connections, including the fuse box and if possible the positive cable sites thoroughly. Spray hair spray over the connections sites when finished. ( has shellack in it -prevents corrision)
    3-A if car starts ck battery fully ,,see if alternator is charging - a freebie @ auto zone!
    4 start car.
    5 If starter is turning over, not starting -- replace the starter relay in the fuse box !!
    .6 start the car.
    6.-A If not starting starter is cranking engine push accelerator to the floor !
    Hold accelerator to the floor cranking engine 20 seconds. Stop,, wait 10 full minutes start car if car starts you have injector issues or sensors
    7 ,if not starting ,,starter is working ,, disconnect the negative cable,again.
    wait 1 full minute -reconnect this clears sensor codes. if car starts its a sensor problem
    8 if car does not start fuel pump may be defective and/ or fuel filter
    put your nose to the end of the car exhaust area --smell any gas? If not fuel pump problem.
    9. You smell fuel not starting ,, take a spark plug out be sure to ground it on the engine,,,see if a park is seen. If not ck the coils .
    10. if spark is seen ck plugs if not ok-- replace plugs with Champion plugs.(OEM)
    11. car still does not start ,, recharge battery,,
    If it starts most likely car starts when cold,,, either starter relay or injectors are bad.
    If when car is hot when it stalls you have problems , ck the EGR valve this is under the windshield wiper are ,, a pro mechanic needs to do this as its hard hard work.
    11.A injectors when hot can leak fuel,, the fuel rail has to be depressurized
    by pulling the fuel fuse & cranking the engine for 20 seconds Then you can take out the fuel injector line after -- you take out the windshield wiper cowling ck for leaks by pressurizing fuel rail injector line , ( keep under pressure for 30 seconds looking for leaks.
    12 None of the above apply ,, ck computer codes ,,gas cap,, cannister codes.
    13 its time for the stealership, as most likley the ECM is shot!!
    Crankshaft sensor ,camshaft sensors can be faulty ,, ck with Auto zone if you can most often these are ok, they go at about 100k so look at your mileage. codes should have shown up if car is running.
  • pitmanoeuvrepitmanoeuvre Posts: 68
    edited October 2012
    To clarify what it means when your starter , just clicks - it means 1of2 things or both are wrong. Firstly , the starter solenoid (which is primarily , just a switch that is connected to your ignition key cylinder - which resides in conjunction with the starter motor inner mechanism) is worn out , or more often than not , the starter motor armature is worn to a point where it no longer turns freely. This is called : wedging or jamming (out of center alignment of the armature with the field winding contacts). In a starter there is an armature , very much like the ones inside of a drill motor , which spins whenever the solenoid contacts are fed power through the ignition cylinder key power connections. When the starter motor is worn , it can't spin freely or properly even if and when the solenoid contacts are working , which cause power to enter the starter armature. This is why you only hear a "click". Sometimes , this "click" will occur , followed by the starter actually turning the motor - and is a telltale sign that the starter motor is worn , or is about to fail soon (normally). But - if your starter has been installed incorrectly , where the inner worm gear is misaligned , you can hear the solenoid switch "CLICK" , because the worm gear is jamming. This is common , "IF" , the starter motor is not installed correctly. Normally , any time you turn the ignition key to the start position , you should hear the starter turn the motor - or attempt to. Clicking solenoids can be heard where the engine will not turn as well. This is why - clicking solenoid sounds on their own , are NOT NORMAL.

    Then lastly , besides both the starter motor solenoid , or the starter motor armature , there still remains the possibility that the starter has not been carefully mounted into it's proper mounting position. If a replacement starter assembly (both new - solenoid and starter motor inside a refurbished or new casing) are "THROWN" into a transmission casing mount without clearing any corrosion/debris/rust/unevenness etc. , the new starter can possibly jam when used. What happens in this case , is that the "worm gear" attached to the starter solenoid/armature , misaligns itself with the flywheel or any other type of connecting gear which turns the engine , when the key is turned to the start position. The worm gear is specially designed to spin towards the connecting engine turning gear , whenever power is fed to the solenoid/armature. When you release the key from the start position , power no longer activates the worm gear , thus the starter is then entirely in a neutral position , where the worm gear is also in a neutral position. You have to be wary of a mechanic who does not pay close attention to the alignment of the starter motor casing/s , so that they fit flush , where there is no odd looking connection made with the 2 casings. The existing casing , can be sanded or filed to ensure a good fit with any new starter , while you can have alot of problems if a new starter is "THROWN" into it's position carelessly. Even bolting the new starter on can be done incorrectly when the alignment was not paid any attention. When you allow this type of repair to occur , chances are - you might have trouble down the road , or just around the next corner.

    *In fact - this has happened to me with a Ford Dealership , where I got into my pickup after driving it approx. 50miles (after having engine work done where the starter had to be removed & reinstalled) [the starter was only a month old] , and the starter turned over , but wouldn't stop spinning - so the engine was running with the worm gear in it's engagement position with the flywheel. I was not going to drive it like that - so , being that even when the key position was in the run position - the starter was still running at a high rate of speed , I had to get out and take off the positive battery terminal cable to get the whole mess to stop. I restarted it , and luckily I got it home , where I released the starter bolts / removed the starter , and then "reinstalled" the starter - where there were no problems afterwards , for years. I even sold the vehicle , after a couple years , and the new owner , didn't have any problem either. To be specific : when you install a starter , 1 hand should be holding the starter casing/assembly in it's proper position , and pressing towards the mount (from it's end) [not from it's side etc.) , while the other hand is torquing the nuts or bolts tight. This is where it also means alot , as you have to do both simultaneously , without allowing the starter to shift. And - you don't just snug up or finger tighten the nuts or bolts - you have to be torquing the nuts or bolts while you are maintaining the proper starter motor position. Finger tightening while the starter is held from behind , is not enough , and then returning to torque the bolts - because the starter can still slightly shift where you didn't see or feel it happen. "Works every time".
  • i believe this what u want service repair manual all parts in great detail, i found once for my car took 30 min find again.. if you have PDF of the owners manual anyone i could use that :D -01/99LH.pdf
  • I would like to get a copy too, I'm so frustrated having changed cam & crank sensors and still not able to start my car. It started fine a few weeks ago. I just read about the key lockout issue and hoping it might be that. Can you use Dropbox it make the pdf downloadable.
  • Just this past 10 days or so alone , (8) owners have received the extensive 300M Chrysler Service Manuals from me - so , there is a postage cost involved in receiving it now , as the total sent is reaching 35~40 thus far. Plus the Canada Post Office nearest me , decided to make some money off of all of this - by ripping me off , and stating (charging) me , 50% more above the original and "LEGAL" costs - on their own private accord. This was confirmed by me personally at another Canada Post Office , who actually charged me less than the original costs I was paying (prior to the 50% hike claimed by my local office). I DO NOT provide the 10,000+ pages service manuals for download online - but , if you send me your name and the address where you want it shipped to (and agree to send me ample postage to my address in return to cover postage costs) , I will send you a copy of the manual compilation. Let me know at :
  • tntalways1020tntalways1020 Posts: 4
    edited February 2013
    I have read thru this forum and have seen others with the same problem as i am having on getting their 300m to start. My boyfriend and i parked our car one night with it running fine and went out next day to start it and it wouldn't start. It cranks over but wont start. We initially thought it had froze up since that night it got REALLY cold and was first night it had done so since i bought the car. We had it taken to a friends garage and put it in the heat and it still wouldn't start. We started first with the spark plugs then the crank sensor. Took the crank sensor back and traded it for the cam sensor and still nothing. It isn't getting spark. Can anyone who ha had the problem as well please help? Been without a car now for two months.
  • tntalways1020 : The problem could be fuel related , or there is an Automatic Shutdown Relay inside the PDC (Power Distribution Center) - this is marked : Fuse & Relay Center on the plastic engine compartment cover. The ASD Relay , protects the entire electrical system from damage due to current overload within the system , plus it also requires a minimum of current flowing through it during startup and running modes. The ASD Relay relies upon throughput current that is calculated and determined within the vehicle's computer. While the vehicle's computer relies upon the sensors you mentioned , it must receive signals within parameters , to further pass that information (or current values) onto such things as the ASD Relay. It is best to begin at the battery terminals , because - all determinations of the electrical system rely upon the proper initial current coming from the battery. Then the power cable that goes directly to the PDC must be rust free and secure. While the PDC relays all rely upon that red cable that connects the entire PDC block terminals inclusively. This cable , could also cause the ASD Relay to malfunction , or trigger. In other words , the proper current must be received at all relays , for the system to function normally. Basically , power is fed to the relays , while the computer measures if the values are correct. If the values are low , high or not within prescribed parameters , the ASD Relay disconnects. Then no power goes anywhere. This works in conjuction with the security key feature , where - if an unauthorized key is inserted into the ignition that works , the engine will start , but will shut down after 2 minutes , because the key chip signal was not recieved (as a verified key) , it is determined as an "unverified key". This is a security / anti theft feature.

    If you read the post above yours , you will find that I am offering a complete and precise Service Manual for the 300M at no cost. All you have to do is send me the address where you want to have the disk mailed to , and return the cost of postage and materials to me to my address. More information is available to those who provide an address and are serious about having a full featured and authentic Chrysler Service Technician Manual - that explains everything from a manufacturer to dealership technician point of view. The manuals are 10,000+ pages in length , and come on 1 disk (fully intuitive - clickable , in PDF format).
  • I have checked the pressure release valve located on the fuel rail and upon turning the key forward fuel will squirt all the way out of the engine compartment. This, to me, rules out a fuel related issue.
  • possibly dead starter if have good fuel pressure pump seems fine test batter first see if cold cranking amps correct if is i wanna say starter issue
  • I really appreciate the help from my first response. As far as a starter issue, i dont believe its that either because its turning over fine. Just not catching a spark to start the car.
  • Can you send the disc to me. I own a 99 300m
    Luiz Hilario
    12 Dorothy st
  • Luiz : I have your address and will have it sent out on the 28th. Due to postage costs and difficulties , all I ask is for you to send me back some stamps to cover the postage to my address. In the future , I don't think it's a good idea to post your home address online , even though I post 1 of my email boxes. I would delete it if I were you , which is why I trust using an email box , or private message , but this forum hasn't got that feature. It's on it's way. You will need to have WinXP or above to use the disk's contents. I don't collect any email boxes or addresses , but someone could.
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