Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Volkswagen Jetta Engine Questions

1456810

Comments

  • no, the 2 liter turbo was removed after my2007
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    Ooops, you're right. Jetta SportWagen has a 2.0L Turbo (just confirmed that on the U.S. VW website) with 10.3:1 compression, but there's no turbo in the Sedan. :blush:
  • right which is why i was wondering about the different compression ratio's
  • I have a 2003 Jetta, 2.0 ltr engine and last week it wouldn't start. This has never happened before. It was suggested to me that the fuel pump may have gone bad, so I bought a new one and it turns out that wasn't the problem. Now it's being suggested that it may be the fuel pump relay...it just won't start, it seem as if no fuel is getting to the engine and I have a half a tank of gas in there. Any suggestions? where is the fuel pump relay located???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,860
    You need to stop throwing parts at the car and back up, take a breath, and try some basic diagnostics or have someone do them for you.

    One simple test might be to spray some starter fluid in the air intake. If the car roars to life for a few seconds, then yep you have a fuel problem. If it won't start even with starter fluid, you probably have an ignition issue, such as bad coil, etc.

    If you'd rather take it to a shop, they can install a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and test for fuel pressure, and can test the injectors for a pulse with a NOID light and make a simple test for spark.

    Sudden fuel pump failures are rather rare actually. They usually wheeze themselves to death. You should be able to hear the FP relay click when you turn the key to ON.

    Relay location on the thirteen position auxiliary relay panel, above relay panel:
    1 - Auxiliary Emergency Flasher Relay (404)
    2 - Relay for Motor Remote Unlock Rear Lid (79)
    3 - Starting Interlock Relay (53) (185) (465)
    4 - Fog Light Relay (53)
    5 - Control Module for Multi-function Steering Wheel (450)
    6 - Control Module for Multi-function Steering Wheel (450)
    7 - Daytime Running Lights Change-over Relay (173), from April 1999
    8 - Daytime Running Lights Change-over Relay (173), through March 1999
    9 - Dual Horn Auxiliary Relay (53)
    10 - Glow Plug Relay (180)
    10 - Warning Lamp Auxiliary Relay (200)
    11 - Park/Neutral Position (PNP) Relay (175)
    12 - Power Supply (Terminal 30, B+) Relay (109)

    Relay Panel:
    1 - Dual Horn Relay (53)
    2 - Load Reduction Relay (18) (100)
    4 - Fuel Pump (FP) Relay (409)
    V - Wiper/Washer Intermittent Relay (192) (377) (389)
    VI - Wiper/Washer Intermittent Relay (192) (377) (389)
    NOTE Number in parentheses ( ) indicates production control number stamped on relay housing.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • swade1swade1 Posts: 1
    Check engine light started flashing, code stated cylinder 1 running too rich, replaced all 4 coils. Code went away, now enginge is ticking. Sounds like coming from the head but not sure. Any suggestions to what next?

    Also, taken to mechanic and told 20W-50 synthetic should make ticking go away. After 4 days it is louder. It is in the freezing temps here. Should I really be running this weight on this engine?
  • Hey guys

    wondering if you can help me out, ill try to make this as short as possible

    I've got a 1999.5 Jetta, Auto, with 199,xxx km on it, a few months ago i noticed a "screeching/rattle" noise coming from underneath the car, it is noticeable after the car has been running for more then a few minutes or has had a good run on the highway

    it does it when i have the car in Drive, and foot on the brake, i can hear this noise coming from underneath the car, closest to the front, i'd say it was coming from where the downpipe/cat is, also, ive put the Ebrake on with wheels chocked and got down beside it and can hear the noise, it goes away slightly when i put it in park/neutral, i pop the hood but dont hear anything in the engine bay

    anyways, i went to the mechanic and asked if it was the Cat (i had a similar noise about a year ago and had VW replace it under the warranty and didnt really notice it anymore, probley cause it was winter time i.e windows up all the time) he told me that he suspected that it was the heat shield on the cat.......so i cut it off (my warranty was up anyways)

    noise was still there

    i go to a muffler shop and they said that it was the bracket where the resonator is, the exhaust was vibrating and going to the front of the car where the flex pipe is hence it sounds like screeching......so had that replaced

    noise is still there

    this noise is driving me nuts, simply because i cant figure it out, i know its not my serpentine belt or my tensioner, i had my timing belt and water pump done not too long ago because of another noise, so i dont think its that

    has anyone had this problem or now what this problem is? i dont want to just start throwing money at in hopes it will stop, i'm just concerned its going to become something worse....

    any ideas?

    thanks in advance
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,860
    You'll need someone under there with a mechanic's stethoscope. Sounds like it's vibration-oriented, not a belt noise.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • vadivadi Posts: 1
    How to do the throttle adaptation because the engine is looping up and down and have code P1545?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,860
    Well you'll need a VAG scanning tool to find out what's going wrong with the Throttle Position Control---there are various components and possibilities here.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • we keep getting a trouble code that reads: manufacturer controlled fuel and air metering, anyone know what this is? and how to fix
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,860
    Got a # for that code?

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • unfortunately no, i deleted it. but it will come back. we think it might be p1128 but not 100% on that till they come back with the car
  • Hello, ihave been trying to fix a problem with my 2000 jetta vr6 for some time now, I am down to 3 codes but i need them translated to actual parts that are associated with the codes 17953-throttle actuation malf. 17550-load registration limit exceeded p1142 intermittent intake air temp. sensor-642-signal too high-p0113 intermittent think anyone can help me out, thanks, Mike
  • All of a sudden; since my 15K check my jetta will lurch as I take my foot off the brake. Happens both while backing up and also going forward. Only happens after engine is warm. I can not seem to get a smooth 'off the line' start.

    Any ideas? Help this is driving me crazy. I know it isn't me or my driving habits as it only happens when engine is warm. Never when it is cold.

    HELP
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The only thing all of those codes have in common is a ground connection. I would try cleaning all grounds you can find.... pay close attention to the grounds for the engine-computer
  • I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8L turbo, when I press on the gas my car revs high stumbles and surges. I did a tune up but same problem, could it be a air intake problem
    also my engine light has been on for a year, dealer has a code for coolent problem
    but can't fix?

    Thank you
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Your VW dealer cant fix a problem with a VW.... are you serious??? I bet I can guess why your CEL (CheckEngineLamp) is on from here! (sounds like you need to find a more competent dealership)

    You need to get the CEL fixed... then, if problems still exist, move forward from there.

    BTW: You say you "did a tuneup"... I am curious... just exactly what did you do? (There has not been any such thing as a "tuneup" since electronic-ignition was invented.)
  • gophergirlgophergirl Posts: 4
    Still looking for help in figuring out why my '08 2.0T jetta is lurching forward with a stutter when I take my foot off the brake and before I start to accerate. Anyone out there help me?

    Only happens when engine is warm - cold starts the 'off the line' are smooth and with out any lurches (my definition is like a manual transmission with a new driver)-
    but as soon as the engine does engage it is smooth from there on up to speed.

    Only started to happen after my 15K check/oil change - please help! thx
  • fho2008fho2008 Posts: 393
    I 'm guessing you have the 2.0T and DSG? Dont have an answer for ya, wish I did, mine acts funny sometimes also.

    GLI or Wolfsburg?
  • ryederryeder Posts: 2
    Wolfsburg. I changed out the MAS and it eliminated the problem. In fact, it ran so well I almost received a speeding ticket. Sold the vehicle last fall but due to the high cost of parts, I will not be buying another one.
  • gophergirlgophergirl Posts: 4
    yes it is a wolfsburg - good to hear I am not alone, still so strange to have this happen - not sure what DSG is.... thanks for responding.
  • gator98gator98 Posts: 1
    I have replaced distributor, coil, computer, crankshaft sensor. I have fuel but no spark. When I jumper out the tach wire with the trigger wire for the coil it starts fine but the fuel will not increase. It just would not start one day and I need help finding out what.
  • fho2008fho2008 Posts: 393
    Wolf also. AFAIK its a manual trans, but yes, with computer technology it drives like an automatic.

    Direct Shift Gearbox I think is what DSG means. They brag that its the fastest shifting trans.

    I noticed it acting wierd since I started taking the back road home, not all the time, but sometimes it does.

    Think its used to me driving on the highway with the cruise set. Maybe it will get better the more it gets used to the back road.

    I want nothing to do with the road construction on the highway coming home.......the usual morons and semis forced into one lane..........I know that isnt a pretty sight!!

    Have you tried sport mode and launch control?
  • gophergirlgophergirl Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info - I was so frustrated, I emailed my dealer - who immediately replied with a couple of questions and then had me stop by without an appointment - and pulled the service manager out to go for a ride with me....I was apprehensive at first, but knew there was something funky with this car. Sure enough the problem presented itself immediately and the guy seemed to know exactly what was going on. I am scheduled in for a couple of days and seems like he did say something about DSG - but heard something about paddles....

    All props to Burnsville Volkswagon in Burnsville MN. The counter staff, the service staff were exceptional - Hope this will rectify the problem once and for all.

    Thanks to cyperland for the support! Will keep you all posted
  • ohbaobeiohbaobei Posts: 19
    folks, i have a 2001 jetta and the engine light is on!!

    Checked and was told 5th cylinder is mis-fired. meaning normal cylinders should have 190lbs pressure, but mine 5th only has 70 lbs pressure. was told as a huge problem and it will cost a lot to fix it!!

    what should i do then?! the light was on actually one month a ago and it can drive Ok even long travel~~~

    Anyone has any idea?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I am assuming you have the VR6 engine (The only 2001 engine with a cylinder #5) I also assume you are saying that a "compression test" was done and cylinder #5 measured lower than the other cylinders. It is also correct that this usually means you have SERIOUS engine damage.

    My suggestion is that you get a "second opionion". Ask somone else to perform both a "compression test" and a "leakdown test".

    If the same results come back... I would personally consider NOT fixing the engine.... continue to change the oil and drive it.

    BTW: I am not convinced that low compression in one cylinder would make the CEL (Check Engine Light) come on. That may be another issue altogether.
  • ohbaobeiohbaobei Posts: 19
    bpeebles, thanks for the reply! our jetta is VR6, you are right!

    the check result is : cylinder #5 has only 90 lbs. but the normal cylinders have 170 lbs. I think there is a big difference! So you think if I go to another shop and have the engine checked and get the same test results, we can still drive this car for a while? meaning the car is still drivable?will not damage the whole engine eventually?

    what kind of results that might be got from a leak down test?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    A good engine mechanic should be able to "read" the results of a "compression test" and "leakdown test" to determine what has failed in your engine. There may be other tests they can do to help isolate the failure.

    Based on that diagnosis, continued driving may, or may not cause further damage.

    Low compression could be caused by several factors including
    *) blown head gasket
    *) carbon deposits built up on valves
    *) Broken valves
    *) broken piston ring
    *) heavilly scored cylinder wall
    *)..others

    Virtually all of the "fixes" for these things requires tearing engine apart which is labor-intensive and often costly.

    To answer your question about a "leakdown test". A "leakdown test" is essentually using a hand-pump to pressureize the cooling-system to normal operating pressure (using a pressure-meter)... then time how long the pressure bleeds off by itself. If the pressure bleeds off too quickly, this often means that the head-gasket is leaking coolant INTERNALLY into one or more of the cylinders. This is somtimes caused by a warped head.

    If head gasket is internally leaking coolant extensivly.... engine may be difficult to start when cold and blow steam out exhaust when 1st started.

    BTW: A warped head is often the result of OVERHEATING the engine at some point.... but there are other reasons this may happen too.
  • ohbaobeiohbaobei Posts: 19
    one weird thing!!!! I did not do anything on my engine yet!!! Guess what, yesterday, the engine light is off.... (not reset by myself)

    the only thing i did is before i drop my car to the shop and have it checked, i changed all the spark plug and add fuel injector cleaner. but the light was still on. so i went to check and was told that one of the cylinder the pressure is only 70lbs but should be 190 lbs. I was planning to have the car check again so i still drive it to work and yesterday the engine light is off.. I have no idea what happened.

    is it sth good? or very weird?

    thanks guys!
Sign In or Register to comment.