Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Oldsmobile Alero Electrical/Lighting



  • I t doesn't work. The switch lights up, but does not defog. All the connections and fuses are fine. Could it be the relay? I live in Northern Ontario, Help!
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    You probably have a break in the printed circuit on the window. You test it by disconnecting both ends, and checking for continuity across the circuit grid. If you can find the break it can be repaired by using some silver (conductive) epoxy.
  • 2004 alero dash has been acting up for about a year. The first time it went dead I twist the windshield wipe lever on high by chance and it worked. Now it wont work at all. All elec componets still work fine. Is the dash dead? HELP
  • I am having the exact same problem. I have a 2000 Alero, and yesterday at lunch time, all the gauges just died. My radio and power windows still work though. Someone told us to disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and then reconnect it to see what happens, and after we did that, the ODOMETER started working again, but nothing else. I'm afraid we're looking at an expensive repair bill which just isn't a possibility right now. If anyone has any thoughts or suggestions, I would love to hear them. If you'd like, you can email me at
  • I had the same problem so I jiggle the key and they would work so I bought a new
    key assembly and install it but I kept having the same problem so I remove the switch and open the back plastic case where I found 5 sets of contacts so I clean the arching burns with a bernishing tool you can find that tool at your local electronic store then I adjusted the contacts so they would make better contact put it back together 2 months ago and have not had the problem again regardless
    what the weather condition are or road conditions. Bye the way this relays control your blinkers,power windows, and Instrument cluster light and gauges.
    I have a similar problem. The power windows and A/C worked intermittently then stopped all together. Did you clean the contacts on the ignition switch ?
  • This has happened to me on my 01 Alero. I had to have the the ignition switch replaced, cost $420.00. This fixed the problem for about two years, or 5,000 miles. Then the same thing happened again. Had to have the ignition switch replaced again, cost $450.00.
  • i am having the same problem with my Rear Defrost My Rear window is fine. already thought of that. I think it has to do something with the Relay not working. I will attempt to repair mine and get back to you.
  • I purchased a used 2000 Alero last year and have had no real problems with it, but am aware of issues with the brand in terms of electrical system problems. Recently, the car has been doing something strange and I'm hoping to get some answers before going to a mechanic. Initally, this was happening in a specific situation - whenever I made a sharp right. The steering wheel locks up and the oil pressure light and electrical system charging light both come on, accompanied by chiming. The car is still running, but appears stalled. Sorry, I don't know a lot about cars. Anyway, I put it in park, turn off the ignition, turn it back on again and everything is "normal". Today, it did it while I was sitting at a red light. Any ideas about what is happening? Has anyone else experienced this with this car? If so, did you get it repaired and was it expensive? I'm a struggling student, so I have to budget carefully.

    Thanks for any help!
  • I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Alero that is having electrical issues. Aftermarket radio turns on off intermittently with ignition key turned in on position and when car is started and turned off. It was installed by a friend of a friend. Had alternator and battery load tests done 3 times now, twice by my repair shop and once by my friend who works for auto zone and both check out ok. My vehicle has died 4 times since having issues and have had to have my car jumped each time. I had my aftermarket alpine stereo taken out checked by a radio shop to check if it was installed properly. Radio was removed within 2 minutes the load test they conducted failed 11.5 rest and a 6.5V drop. I’ve been told I should get battery checked at Interstate battery center. Interstate battery that is in the car I have been told is only 1 year old from previous owners who I spoke with. My repair shop pulled up 27 error codes in computer after security light had come on. A few of the codes are U1025 Loss of serial communications for class 2 devices. B1328 vehicle system voltage is greater than 15.9 volts. U1000 class 2 communication malfunction. My repair shop has replaced the ignition switch which I was told help get rid of 4 DTC codes and I had to have the ac compressor assembly with drier repaired recently. I have been told to leave the radio out for 3 days by my repair shop. They are checking and clearing out the codes and I have to bring it back to have it checked to see if the codes come back. I have no idea what to do and feel I am at a loss with this vehicle. I notice when driving the vehicle that pressing on any electronic buttons in the car as well as accelerating in and from idle position the car interior lights dim and I can hear a change in voltage from low / high, high / low it fluctuates. I’ve already wasted enough money into the car itself. I have read many forums of vehicle owners replacing alternator and battery as well as the starter in varies cars and it does not help the issue. I do know I have some sort of voltage issue going on but that all I know. Any suggestions on what could be causing this problem along with the DTC error codes? Thank you!
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Has it been checked to see if there's a constant high load on the battery even when the ignition is off? In other words, is something staying on when it shouldn't? That would fit your symptoms - and under these conditions all kinds of error codes and electrical gremlins will occur. One way to do this is to disconnect the battery, put an ohmmeter across the cables (not the battery) and measure the resistance. It better be high (but not infinity). You need to be sure that interior or under hood lights are off (doors shut or bulbs out) so those aren't a factor.
  • I have a 2000 Alero with 70k miles. I had the emergency flasher recall fixed a year ago by a local dealer, but after the first use recently it popped right back into the dash. Worse, they broke the dash vent then and it took a year for them to get the part and replace that. Now a month or so later the fan will only operate on high speed, and the rear defroster will not work more than one out of a 100 button pushes. I wondered if some vengeful mechanic who got chewed out for breaking the dash vent might have set me up when he finally replaced the vent --- or are these problems common to Alero? If it is Alero electrical problems which all seem to be dash board related, any ideas on how to get to the behind dash locations so I can fix these myself? Otherwise this is a great running car and the last of the best cars ever made – the Oldsmobiles.
  • Hi, I have been searching to try and find a fix for my alero, and I saw your blog, although I realize it is over four yrs old...haha just wondering if you figured it out? the door chimes in my POS 2001 alero after the key is out of the ignition, and when it rains, the chiming doesnt stop and the interior lights stay on even after the car is locked...thus-dead battery. love it. any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated. i am planning on getting rid of the alero this summer hopefully, or as soon as possible, so I am looking for an inexpensive fix. Thanks again
  • yampearyampear Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Olds Alero V-6 that recently would not start properly. The battery works but the fuel was not getting to the injectors. The mechanic that I selected is telling me that the PCM may be the problem and that I should replace the computer entirely. Are there modules that can be replaced that control this issue or is the mechanic correct? It has taken him 5 days to come to this diagnosis and I wonder if he is right. The fuel pump was replaced 2 years ago.

    Thanks in Advance of Solution.
  • It's too bad, cause if you work on cars at all, you can replace that switch in about an hour, and I think an aftermarket switch is about $75.00 and parts store.
  • this isnt anything caused by the dealer. Its typical problems of this car as the same thing is happening to me. The air only working on high is also my issue.
  • Thanks for the input. Since posting I discovered that the reason that I lost all speeds but the high speed is that the lower fan speeds are controlled separately by a resistor board that is located inside the car under the dash near the glove compartment. The part is commonly available as a Blower Motor Resistor and only runs about $20. You do have to be a contortionist to install it, but it is not complicated at all. A local (non dealer) auto repair shop will likely furnish the part and install it for about $50. I took care of mine last month after a tech installing a new alternator tipped me off to the problem, it is nice to have the fan back for winter. He got the part form a local auto supply store. Let me reference some useful Rock Auto on-line links that might help:

    Informational blog:

    On-line pricing:
    then select: OLDS, the year, the model, the engine, heat and air conditioning, then Blower Motor Resistor all from the drop down menu
  • chaugenchaugen Posts: 1
    I got this car when I was 18 and bought it with 81k miles on it now has 92,4XX the last two months it has been awful. Its a 01 olds alero Gl 4 dr sedan 2.4L 4 cyl. gas mileage is terrible I live 5 miles from work and spent 80 bucks every two weeks in gas. I had it in a few days ago and paid 400 dollars to have it fixed it seemed like it was trying to die rpm's got low and would spike when idleing just to stay on and running lights would dim when this happened. If in neutral and rpm are up its fine it also does it when accelerating over 60 changed the spark plugs they put in a new ignition coil which helped the first day and it started doing it again. I bought it for 6200 family didnt do there research and paid way to much for and am fed up with the problems ive had with it it died at at a stoplight was able to start it again and then died in a parking lot while in reverse. With kids being in my car I say no everytime unless its necessary I dont feel safe driving this car. Service Engine light always is coming on. Trade in at a dealer told me 2500 more then i expected for it but the interior is leather and is maintained and cleaned regularly have 4600 bucks of this loan left trading in and up to a 2012 kia sportage only thing saving me is that they will pay the loan off and tack on to kia so only one car pmt my biggest thing which everybody knows and if u dont I'm telling u now do ur research read reviews trusted friends/family that own the vehicle ur looking at if they do ask what problems they have had with theres or how they like it and if it checks out check the price u should pay vs. the price they want you to pay kia was being sold $3000 then invoice and 5k under MSRP still doing more research making sure this doesnt happen again. Cars have problems but you shouldn pay more to fix it then the car is worth
Sign In or Register to comment.