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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Electrical Problems



  • No level of difficulity, I took the hot wire from the battery and removed it from the right side of "battery guard",then I installed it on the left side of "battery guard".I had to unplug the "battery guard box" that is located under the dash on the
    driver side,also I unplugged the "battery reset" located on the "dog house".
    The only thing I had to worry about, was the "air bags".I removed the negative
    side of the battery and left it unplugged until I relocated the "positive side"
    of battery wire!.I done this about 2 weeks ago,been starting my van everyday,
    and no problems.All the battery guard does is when the battery voltage drops
    to 10 volts it shuts off the battery completely so it will not go dead!
  • binzzbinzz Posts: 1
    I need help here. My Safari cargo works great ! But every 3 months or so it will not start at all. Oh motor turns when ignition is turned on like usual,but it will not start ! I hear the pump pumping great cause after a few attemps I smell plenty of gas coming to the motor. So now motor is drowned My question is .... Is there a security on the truck that may turn on now and then and act as a security switch preventing the truck from starting .Something that cut the electrical current ? Thanks cause I am getting desperate with the problem. Otherwise the truck runs great.
  • nennynenny Posts: 1
    i am having the same stupid problem with my 98 astro please let me know if you figure it out
  • chevy astro trouble starting hi i traced the problem to the fuel pump relay where it is fitted it gets wet when it rains i fitted a new relay and now no problems also nice and cheep to fix $10 from western auto.
  • allens1allens1 Posts: 1
    The problem you describe here is just like a problem I'm havine with my 2003 Astro. I noticed you posted this sometime ago. Did you find out the cause? If so, can you help me?
  • hawk24hawk24 Posts: 4
    i had a feeling,t he problem was underneath the vehicle, finally, someone with
    a solution! thx. I'll get on it this week.
  • safari99safari99 Posts: 2
    Hi, i own a Safari99, one day I was driving in freeway(65mph steady) and i noticed the Volt Indicator to go down and down(was ok about 14v when i first start the car.) Suddenly no power all indicator went crazy all light went off and car just stops in the meddle of the freeway. I had a battery jump start and everything was fine.
    Now i can't drive in freeway for more than 10 minute, if i drive in regular traffic with no radio and no AC i can make from point A to B but the Volt indicator goes down and back up. I had the car checked but the computer don't see to find the problem , battery is fine same as the alternator (I had both tested at Autozone). Thank you
  • Hello.
    I would probably still think it may be the alternator and would remove it and have it rebuilt if the mileage is at least 80k. Your description of it fluxuating leads me to think that. Hope it is of help.
  • safari99safari99 Posts: 2
    Hi needhelpinpa,

    In your opinion, I just find a faulty cable ( no the sparks plug ones, but the one the goes to the coil is shorting) you think that can cause the problem?.
    I ll replace it this week anyway.
    If this do not work I ll replace the alternator.
    Thank you for your help.
  • Sounds like you have lost ground from the firewall to the engine ! This will cause the
    problems you are experiencing ! You could try to install a ground wire from the motor block to the firewall !
  • Over a year my safari just stops starting...... First time, 12 months ago, Mec. said he fixed it, the battery was low and he charged it and it ran..... Drove from RI to KWest, 2400 miles, and it died when I got there. I unmounted the starter (disconnected bat. to do so) got it checked, it was ok. Re installed and drove over 2k again and than it quit..... when I got back north. Mec. changed starter and battery. Over 1k later, died. This time I simply disconnected the battery and re connected and it started.....2000 plus miles later, last night, it just shut down. Seemed that if I disconected the battery it would start. I unmounted the starter (disconnected bat. to do so) got it checked, it was ok. Re installed and drove over 2k again and than it quit..... This time we changed the Bat and starter..... Ran for hundreds of miles but not sure how many and stopped..... Disconnected the battery, re connected and it ran, this time for 2300+ miles... Died tonight and is sitting on the side of the road 20 miles from home....... Any suggestions?
  • Most safaris have problems with battery cables.Some short out out like mine and caused a fire. My dads shorted out too on a newer model. What you have described sounds like your ground cable is loose at the engine block. It will connect some time and other times will not run.Check it out. The nut works loose.
  • For about a month, the starter would click and whine occasionally. This week, the battery light started coming on while idling and turned off when revved. This last time I went to accelerate, the tranny sounded like it was pulling and vehicle jerked like it was out of gas, so I parked and turned it off. Tried to start it again and the battery was dead. Charged the battery, changed the starter and solenoid but battery died again. What are the next trouble shooting steps?
  • I own an Astro , and if I leave a CD in the CD player, it will run the battery dead! The CD player is one of those deals that is separate from the radio it's self ! Astro had a problem with the radio draining the battery! Also, have AutoZone test your battery for a dead cell! Usually they don't charge for this ! Just something to look at !
  • fuel pump relay...did you mean the one in the fuse box, under the hood?

    I also heard the Crank Shaft Sensor, can cause a similar problem...shuts off fuel if it doesn't sense the engine turning sometimes due to a short in the wiring.
  • My 2000 Chevy Astro quit while driving. Wouldn't crank. Had been difficult to start for several months. Decided it must be bad alternator. Had alternator tested: was producing 18 volts, traded on warranty. Also replaced battery. Cranks now, but still won't start. Replaced fuel pump last year. Tried starter fluid, but no effect, so I think problem must be electrical. Would this be a bad solenoid, or is there something else I haven't considered? I noticed that some posts mention a ground cable being loose from the engine block; would that be consistent with the symptoms of my van?
  • could be the module that controls the ignition
    If you are getting spark from coil to distibutor but not to plugs, The suspect would be the cap and rotor or the plug wires. But, since there is no firing going on the wires are probably fine its got to be under the distibutor cap.
    You can get the code read free at autozone or advance auto parts stores. I have 2 astros. 87 and 98. My 87 (175,000 mi)died a minute after starting it last december. The check engine light came on and the code read lean or rich mixture. The coolant temp sensor was bad. It had previously failed at 48,000 miles in 1991. It is hard to get to with rear a/c lines in the way, but the $7 part screws into intake manifold into the coolant passage. Van started right up and the 3 mpg mileage increase from then on suprised me. I could hear my fuel pump prime and I had spark.
  • Hi all, I'm new here on the forum, and writes from Sweden. For Sweden, no one really Astro forum, unfortunately. Well I have an astro-96a two wheels driven, but is probably a bit of electricity failure, for when the car is turned off, it is not a tank, oil pressure temp down to zero, but they show that if the car would be running. Is this normal or is there anyone who can help me with what it could be wrong.
    Then when you drive and to press down kickdownen so switches it up, but you have to release the gas a little bit then goes into gear without any problems, and let not the gas a bit so it will knock from the engine, but then you have enough a arvtal above normal, and it feels like the engine on the way out the hood.
    Hope there is someone here who can help me. And you know what I write, I'm not a whiz in English.
  • Thank you for your response. I checked the codes, but there were none. I checked for a spark from the coil wire (at the distributor) by holding it close to the block, but there was no apparent spark. What is the best way to check if the coil is functioning properly? Might it still be the coolant sensor to which you referred?
  • Ok so heres the deal; 2000 Safari passenger w/ a brand new alternator. The van cranks fine cold, and the voltage gauge is cranked to 3/4. Then as it warms up it dials down to where it should be. When I go on the highway the stereo's volume increases by itself and when I am idling the volume decreases as well, plus when I put both windows up at the same time the guage almost drops to dead... Battery tests come out fine... Gauge also fluctuates when I crank the heat or turn on rear defroster. Any thoughts? Also, I have had GM's for a while and after a long trip (or also when they're about to crap out) I hear the fuel pumps whining. I hear mine whining like 5-10 seconds after I turn the van off... Anything about anything would be appreciated!
  • you are my hero 97 astro conversion f&^%% around 3 hrs auto zone said it was battery came inside did google search found your thread 7 min later van started if you are ever around Cleveland ohio im buying just email me who ever USES these battery guards good luck now i have to be nice to girlfriend because the only thing cranking around here was me ////////
  • Its very likely that your ABS Module needs to be refurbished. Mine was doing exactly the same. Vibrations seemed to set it off and both BRAKE/ABS lights would come on until I turned the car off. It is a popular problem with the modules.

    The fix was less than $100 dollar and it was very easy.

    There are two companies that do this and give you a warranty for their work:
    ASI (Automotive Scientific Inc) (HINT: their Ebay listings are way cheaper!

    And the other company is Module Master:

    You can ship it to them and still drive your vehicle. Your brakes will work just fine, but the ABS feature won't until you replace the controller. Just make sure you cover the other half of the ABS unit on your car. You'll want to protect it from debris and water.

    Best of luck.
  • These problems seem related, all started around the same time - won't start on 1st key turn, if doesn't start on 2nd try sometimes won't start for a long time, minutes, hrs. or even days. The heater and the A/C won't work. Massive loss of power and tremendous fuel consumption. Shifting from 1st to second hesitates. If you have any clues or solutions, I'm all ears. Thank you so much.
  • rpeprpep Posts: 4
    Thanks for your input. Sorry it took so long to answer. I was out of the country for a few months.
  • Hi, I had this problem several months ago. My GMC Safari has 121k miles on it. I It wouldnt start it cranked. but no ignition. and when I turned the key off the engine jerked. it sat for a week.
    My friend and I tore into every thing. Finally I got it towed to a shop they found the wire connection to the coil damaged. It seems a Neoprene foam rubber jacketed A/C hose that curves around and runs along the right side above the Rocker cover vibrates and damages the wiring going into the connector. I bought a coil, a Ignition module from a Upull-it bone yard to confirm. I am currently dealing with the same hose taking out the wires leading into the 4wire ignition module. I found out by pushing the wires in and it started fine. I tied the A/C hose and the big wire loom together downward away from the coil area. Vibration wear is a concern. BTW check the upper Radiator hose, brother.
  • johsjohs Posts: 1
    I have a 96 GMC Safari, the blower (heater seems to work but not the fan) has been intermittently working, hadn't worked for a month then jumped in and went just fine. As well as that when the blower stopped going for a month or so the cruise control stopped working as well. When the blower fired up again so did the cruise control.
    Not a wiz on these things at all so a bit of direction would be much appreciated. Hoping it is a, fix it my self problem and thinking electrical as is intermittent.

    Any help would be really appreciated!
  • My 2005 Astro has a strange issue, diving the gauges appear normal. I shut the van off and the gauges go off, take the key out and after 20 seconds or so the gauges power up, reinserting the key makes them go off again, any insight?
  • 2001 GMC Safari AWD, Lost power to Headlights (low and high) Daytime running lights as well as Dome lights and no control to remote door locks. Security dash light is now on all the time. Changed relay with no results. park, brake, dash and signal lights ok..
    This one's got me stumped..Any thoughts??
  • I have fixed this problem on every Astro/Safari that is older than 4 yrs old. It has always been fixed by replacing all of the vacuum lines on the passenger side around the A/C area. There is one line that runs across the front of the engine compartment (hard small black plastic tube which is often found in pieces). Replace all with good, new rubber vacuum hose of good quality. The old hoses often come out in pieces and come apart all over your hands when touched. Pay special attention to the long hose which connects to a vacuum reservoir which is behind the passenger side wheel. The hose is often found off the nipple on the reservoir. This connection can only be seen with a mirror or felt for with your hand unless you take off many parts which hide it.
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