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Mazda5 Tires & Wheels



  • ananasananas Posts: 1
    Had the same problem with my 07 after they rotated and balanced my tires. Went back couple of times where they balanced them again but this never fixed the problem. Uneven wear was mentioned but I only had 14000 miles on the car. Went to a private shop, they said there was nothing wrong with the tires. They found a bulletin that suggested engine mounts was the solution for the vibration. Went to the dealership with it and they said they never have seen one or have anyone had that problem. They put in the engine mounts which didn't take care of the vibration only changed it up a little bit after they played with the tires - again! The master technician said if I keep on being unhappy with the fix he'll be in trouble as of not being able to fix it. That was a surprising comment. I've lived with the vibration since cause I got tired of running to the dealership for nothing. Now my warranty has expired and issues w suspension are climbing up so I guess my only rescue is to try to get rid of my car eventually. Too bad...without all these challenges it would be a nice car. :sick:
  • gnuguygnuguy Posts: 9
    As so many people have pointed out already, the original Mazda 5 tires are garbage. Our fronts were done in just over 18k miles on our '06. I've been replacing the Toyos with Kuohmos without any real improvement. There is no way any vehicle should be using tires that fast. In terms of the eco-system, this is a horrible design. Not to mention that we've got to pay for new tires every 20k.

    I've been trying to find a solution ever since I paid for the first replacement tires. The dealership told me that there were no smaller rim options to be had. I can't wait to correct him on that.

    My question is does tire wear improve with the smaller rims? If so, how much?

    Thanks in advance.
  • Guess what, I did throw away the original rims and all the crappy tires and brought a whole new set of rims and tires from After drove about 10K the same problem happening again. So I wrote a complaint letter to MazdaUSA and they did responded my letter in 3 days...and they told me they will sent me to the local dealership and they should taking care of me....they sounds pretty promising. Even this was my 5th times to look into the same problem since the 1st year I brought it in 07. But I thought they got enough complaints and know how to fix me this time. When I did shown up at the dealership but they made me to paid $100 for disgnosis fee but I told the service guy this was my 5th time to look at the same problem and I was send by MazdaUSA . I end it up agree to pay for the fee and hope for the best this time. Guess what, it took them almost a whole day and end up told me the stories that they couldn't find anything wrong. I felt so stupid why I would trust MazdaUSA and even paid $100 to the stupid dealership. Trust me I'm looking to get rid of it and will tell all my friends not to BUY MAZDA 'coz it SUCK!!!
  • melaniemelanie Posts: 2
    We are sorry to hear about your experience with your Dealer not being able to help you. We do have a Dealer Ratings and Reviews section if you would like to post a review of this dealer. I have provided a link for you.
  • speddyspeddy Posts: 16
    Well we bought new tires about two weeks ago for our 08 mazda 5. We got Goodyear comfort tred touring tires. $$$$$ :cry: almost $800! But all of our vibration and tire noise is gone!!!! :) I hope it stays that way! Very happy with the new tires so far except for the price, but I guess that's the price I pay for low profile tires. (which I don't really want)
  • jarek67jarek67 Posts: 2
    I own a Mazda 5 for 6 months and I have had to replace shocks twice now. The car also has a noise in the back. After inspecting the shocks I found one was leaking. When I took it to the dealer they told me the shocks looks good. After I insisted that they look with me they agreed to replace the shock under warranty. I was made to feel like they were doing me a favor. The noise stiil exists and they are blaming the tires. The tires are worn off unevenly. 35000 miles on the car
  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    WOW! How do you get 35k in 6 mo? Anyway,
    I've been saying for some time that the shocks the factory puts on the 5 are up to the challenge. I would recommend anybody that likes the car and intends to keep it to go and get some top of the line shocks. I bought the car fully aware of the issue.
    The tires quality has been blamed many times on this forum for a lot of things and there are reports that new tires from a different manufacturer took care of the problems. At 35k it's time for new rubber. It is irrelevant now if the shocks killed your tires, or the tires were cheap to begin with.
    I have my 5 for 16 mo now and it has 15k. The tires are at 50%. We drive it hard (when we do), loaded up and fast, so I'm not complaining, again, I anticipated the problem.
    Sorry for the dealer experience. I've found the same attitude with other brands, too. It's a systemic problem.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,655
    edited March 2011
    yup. Like I've reported here, too, aftermarket shocks and good tires fix these problems. Having the dealership replace under warranty only guarantees the problem will return.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • jarek67jarek67 Posts: 2
    I am sorry that I didn't mention that I bought the car used with 26000 miles. Could you tell me the brand and where you got the shocks? I wonder if you know if I can change the tires to a different size? Do the rims need to be changed with new size tires? Thanks.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,655
    You can change tire size slightly without changing the wheels. I know from experience, however, that there is very little room to play with. At one point, I put a set of 225/55 tires I had leftover from another vehicle and they rubbed. So I don't suggest pushing it past 215/50.

    I had managed to come across a good deal on a new set of Kumho KH25s on Ebay. 205/50/17 for, I believe, around $265. This was back in the Fall.

    For the shocks, I picked up a set of Monroe (part number 5607). They don't show as being compatible with anything past 2008, but I can assure you they work. The suspension did not change between '08 and '09 or even 2010.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • davec15davec15 Posts: 2
    We live in upstate NY...we have a 2008 Mazda5 with 50,000 miles on it, and love it except for the unexpected yearly tire expenses. In the 3 years we have had it, we have had to put 8 new tires on, we are getting about a year on them....which is only about 16,000 miles each. The first set were the Toyos that came with it, annd then we went to Hankook, as suggested by the dealer for increased tread wear...and while better, it's hardly what i'd consider acceptable. My wife drives it primarily with our two we are not whipping around in it. We did, by the wa, purchase snow tires, which do make a big difference in the winter...and i was hoping would also help to extend the life of the non-winter tires....but no significant difference there.

    What can I do? Tires suggestions? Any other suggestions? This is really getting to be frustrating and difficult to afford. Any help would be appreciated.
  • First off neither of those companies makes a decent tire. If you don't want to keep doing this AND you don't want to do any suspension work (where the problem is) go to and find the HARDEST, longest wear rated tire you can and hope for the best. It will probably be a Michelin.

    The REAL solution is to figure out HOW tghe tires are wearing and then what part of the suspension is causing the problem. It isn't like the car is so heavy you can't get a tire to hold up and even if you were throwing the car around there ae tires that would take that.

    I have changed all the suspension and haven't had tire wear issues - fortunately and I do drive a bit aggressively in corners. It is WAY fun now!

    Among other things you probably have camber issues.

    Good luck,

    2008, 5
  • davec15davec15 Posts: 2
    Larry - was this in response to my post inquiring about better lasting tires for our mazda5? If so, do you know much about the Kumho Ecsta LX Platinum(Grand Touring All-Season)? I found in on tire rack...600 A A, for $110 each.
  • Yes, my reply was to your post. I am not a big fan of Kumho however, the 600 is a good number but, remember the manufacturer assigns its own numbers. See how they get reviewed.

    What is the dealer telling you why the tires aren't lasting? And how are they wearing? Is it front AND rears?

    Good luck,

  • Mazda 5s need adjustable camber kits in the back.

    My car is still under warranty and have raised quited the stink about how the tires were cupping severely after 40,000 km even after rotating them.
    Car was driving loudly and there was a "thump, thumping" in the back.
    Took it into the dealership and they said it needed new tires due to cupping. They said it needed an alignment, but that one had just been done.
    They wanted me to buy new tires even though the alignment was off. That didn't make sense to me, seeing how the problem would just occur again. That sense of illogical thinking sent me online to research the car and the alignment problems. I called the dealership on this strange line of thinking and they told me that they they have been researching solutions about this for some time and a lot of people are having problems. Well, why didn't they tell me about this? They said that there was a "non-Mazda" part (adjustable camber kit) that would fix the problem and that it would cost me $600.
    NO WAY was I going to pay for something Mazda should be addressing and fixing.

    After a week of waiting, the dealership said they would fix it under warranty by putting in a new right adjustable camber kit and aligning it 2 times to get the numbers right.

    I do still have to buy new tires, so in the same situation as you are, but the even sadder thing is there a lot of Mazda owners out there that this will happen to and won't know what to do.

    Get it fixed, under warranty and raise a fuss!
    Mazda Canada should step up and recall their cars to fix them.
  • gnuguygnuguy Posts: 9
    You mention that you "changed all the suspension." Was there any one or two components that seemed to produce the best tire wear results?

    Our front tires wear quite fast which makes sense since all the weight is over the front tires. However, the wear is even.

    Currently we're running Kumho Ecsta ASXs. We might actually get around 20k or 25k out of these.

    It still sucks as far as I'm concerned. With our other vehicles (2000 Tracker and a very disappointing '98 Malibu) we were getting >50k out of a set of tires.

    We dumped the piece-of-trash Malibu for the Mazda. Except for the tire wear issue, it's been a big improvement.
  • There has been a LOT of posting on here about each persons particular problem with tire wear. The one thread that caught my attention is that if the frame wasn't put together perfectly straight then it really opens a can of worms on trying to get the tires aligned.

    In the rear, as the one post infers, there is only one alignment parameter that can be addressed by the dealership and I believe that is toe. If one needs/wants to address camber than yes, it is an aftermarket product that needs to be installed. $600.00 is OUTRAGEOUS! That is simply theft.

    My friend and I did it in a VERY cramped work space with ice dripping on us without all the tools we needed in an afternoon. There is one bolt that Mazda installed that is too long that was a pain in the tush to get out and back in (I would have changed it except we were running out of time).

    Doing one side also shows the complete ignorance of the Mazda dealer network. Both might as well be done at the same time. Also I would NOT install "factory" quality bushings of those camber adjusters. The factory quality rubber in Mazda bushings is JUNK. Go with the nylon/neoprene and find a COMPETENT shop to do the work.

    As far as front wear. That does get a bit pricer however if they can't get the front end aligned (ask for and GET the print outs and then take them to someone who can read) there are "race" camber adjusters (top shock mounts) made in either Austrailia or New Zealand. When I was looking I wasn't aware of any made in Europe or North America - that may have changed.

    I wasn't having tire wear issues and, didn't want any, so I got proactive and started chaning things out before that ball got rolling.

    The bottom line gets to: how long are you going to keep the vehicle and what are the tires costing you? What is the cost effective path to follow?

    I will say again, with the lower springs, Koni shocks, new bushings and better tires this things is just a hoot to drive. My wife wasn't wild about getting on and off freeways! Until............... she took the car in for the A/C repair and she got a chance to do some on ramp driving and now she is thrilled as well.

    Ultimately you will probaly have to leave the very friendly and professional Mazda dealerships for service people who actually know and understand how to REPAIR a car, the dealerships ( I've used 2 now) are clueless.

  • Sorry I missed a couple of your points.

    No, I didn't notice any more difference from one piece or the other on tire wear. And no again, on fronts wearing faster...... there isn't that much weight up front to cause that much UNDUE tire wear.

    The mileage you are getting is typical of the problem chassis and it is TOTALLY unacceptable.
  • gnuguygnuguy Posts: 9
    I agree. The vehicle really is fun to drive. My only complaint has been the tire wear.

    Thank you very much for a very thorough, informative response.
  • billy00billy00 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem I have a 2010 Mazda 5 and the tire wear is horrible. Just to be clear it does not matter what tire rim or anything you do. There is a problem with the way the suspension is on the car and Mazda is not addressing it yet. Basically by what I was told they do not have enough complaints yet to warrant a recall and when they get information from the dealerships they are being told there is nothing wrong with the shocks or the alignments on the cars by the dealers. So if we want this fixed its going to take all of us going into Mazda dealers to show them the problem and filing complaints with Mazda. This does need to be addressed and fixed because theres no reason tires should have to be replaced this often on any vehicle. They need to upgrade the shocks and suspension or something because if you look at your rear tires I will be willing to bet they bow out slightly at the bottom and don't sit on the car straight. At least mine do and that would mean the shocks and suspension is the problem. I personally will not stop calling Mazda until this issue is addressed.
  • larry8061larry8061 Posts: 37
    edited August 2011
    Knock your socks off........ how many tires you want to ruin in the mean time?

    If you are indeed wearing the insides (probably) or the outsides of the rear tires off then it is indeed a camber problem. I am ancient, so I already forget the price but, you can get a pair of ADJUSTABLE rear camber arms (I think for well less than $100.00) and SOLVE the problem (Mazda's possible legal repsonsibility not withstanding).

    Somewhere on one of these threads is my Cliff notes version on how to do it. With the exception of one bolt that is too long and needs replaced it is no big deal. You all but only need a 14 and 17MM wrench and socket (with handle). And no, I didn't drop the "axle" (it isn't really an axle by any stretch). Loosened some bolts and all but forced the long bolt past its obstruction.

    Good luck with Mazda!

  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,655
    edited August 2011
    I had posted a link somewhere on edmunds here to those adjustable arms, too. SPC makes them. First place that came up in my 20-second search just now has them for $100 each side. I'm sure a more extensive search will turn them up for cheaper.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    I wonder if there is some frame deforming happening after some use...
    Anyway, I wanted to chip in and say that must not be the only fix needed. Tires wear out uniformly for some folks. For me it looked like that although I saw extensive wear inside on one tire. We have 24 k miles and tires will probably not reach 30k.
    When the vehicle moves up and down, the wheels move sideways, in and out. On a McPherson there is some camber oscillation, too.
    The new 2011 model has re-tuned suspension, to reduce lateral movement of passengers... blah blah blah. I wonder if the older (like the 2010 I have) suspension allows for too much travel and the tires become pencil erasers on the road, constantly moving in and out, just a little more than other vehicles on the road. If that is the case, it is design issue with the angle and length of components. It is un-fixable - not completely, anyway.
    Swapping for "better" shocks is a patch in trying to arrest slight movements.
    What is a "better" shock for this car? Really - Stiffer? Softer? What am I looking for, here?
    Different springs looks like a more direct approach that Mazda is taking, too. This is an issue I am afraid to tackle, though. If I pick the wrong spring, the car will be off the road in sticky situation like a fast bumpy turn.
    Maybe we can get 2011 springs and put them on our clunkers :) Mazda already did the math. I heard the 2011 models are not "as fun anymore" (Edmunds review)....
    So, shocks suggestions anyone? and why you chose a particular one? And for how long have you been using them and do you see improvements?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,655
    When the vehicle moves up and down, the wheels move sideways, in and out.

    Not completely sure what you mean. When suspension goes up and down, yes, you will see more negative camber on the compression stroke and less when extending. It is the nature of independent suspension.

    It can get slightly worse as springs get tired and start sagging. It is possible the springs are too soft, but I really doubt it, not on a vehicle that handles as well as the mazda5 does.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    What I mean is that the lower arm si connected to the frame and the moving end, at the wheel describes an arc, the arm itself being the radius. That brings the wheel in and out.
    The nature of the springs was just a speculation. This car does lean in turns (I love it). I mean how else would Mazda re-tune the suspension in the new model? Oh, wait, sway bars? Hmmmm.

    So the camber issue is crystal clear. I bought the car fully aware of the issue and I tell everyone buying it to allow for it or budget for the fix.
    But what causes the entire uniform early wear?
    Shocks picks please!
  • You may want to do a LOT, as in a LOT, of research on just plain ol suspension geometry before you go down this rabbit hole. A number of your premises aren't really valid.......

    I can't imagine the frame moving AFTER it leaves the factory unless it hits something. That the frame left the factory not straight I can imagine. Based on my research and, for the most part personal experience, there is NO suspension part on the 5 that can't be upgraded - it all exists somewhere and for a price.

    H&R springs aren't too badly priced and will lower the car about .75" which I think makes it look a LOT better. A number of people have suggested that with the stiffer springs and stock shocks the rebound is too much. The only shock *I* found that was engineered for a lowered ride height is the Koni Sport (yellows). I have found the combination FANTASTIC (along with the better tires) The Yellows are also "adjustable". I like a firm ride - some don't. Koni shocks are not cheap! ALL of the suspension bushings are available in something other than rubber (firmer/stiffer). I also like what that did to the ride.

    With enough knowledge, money and in the right hands, non-normal tire wear CAN be eliminated. I've upgraded a number of suspensions primarily on VW's and none of those handled as well as this 08 5 does right now.

    There are people auto-crossing 5's.

    Good luck!
  • I missed a number of your questions - sorry, I'll try again.

    Swapping for "better" shocks is a patch in trying to arrest slight movements.

    If you want to arrest movement you are looking at stiffer springs. Stiffer shocks would be second. You can crank the Koni's up pretty good.

    What is a "better" shock for this car? Really - Stiffer? Softer?

    In practically everyone's mind it would be stiffer. Predicated on your thesis you would also want stiffer.

    What am I looking for, here?

    You tell us!

    Different springs looks like a more direct approach that Mazda is taking, too. This is an issue I am afraid to tackle, though. If I pick the wrong spring, the car will be off the road in sticky situation like a fast bumpy turn.

    How stiff a spring are you going to? Nothing that is engineered for the 5 and readily available is going to get into those kinds of terrirtories. How fast do you want to be travelling? I mean for that kind of event you'd be doing something like 55 or better (miles not kilometers per hour) on tight off ramps.

    Maybe we can get 2011 springs and put them on our clunkers Mazda already did the math.

    So has H&R, Eiback (affordable) and the Japanese after market - those are WAY expensive)

    I heard the 2011 models are not "as fun anymore" (Edmunds review)....
    So, shocks suggestions anyone? and why you chose a particular one? And for how long have you been using them and do you see improvements?

    If you want REAL improvement it is Koni. I've been using them for a month or so and noticed HUGE improvements. I chose them because they are the best....... and about the only engineered shock for lowered 5's.

  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    Thank you for your replies!
    I'll look at Koni. I am not interested in lowering the car. It is low enough for what we do it. I do not want to stiffen or soften the ride either, at least I have to be honest and say I don't know that I do.
    Why did you change the bushings? Other then the rear stabilizer bar (I thigk) sqeaking issue, I didn't think there was an issue.
  • Yes, the squeaking noise was indeed a lot of the motivation. Not knowing WHICH busing was/would squeak I said to hell with it and did all of them. They are all rubber and as far as *I* am concerned all junk. Beyond that I have not read the definitive answer to why all of these tire problems and I wanted to preclude some of that as well.

    Once under there and tearing things apart its just as easy to do them all at the same time.

  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    To all Bridgestone G 019 owners -
    How has it been so far? How is the wear?

    I am about to do the same thing.
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