Isuzu Trooper Heater Core
gruntbuggly
Member Posts: 4
HEllo. I've gone to the trouble of completely removing the dash from my 93 Trooper in order to change the leaking heater core. Now, I'm looking at the white ductwork that houses it, and can't get it open. I really don't want to break anything, but with all the (visible) screws out, I can't seem to get it apart. The Chilton's book has no pics at all, and basically none of the dash diagrams matched my Trooper completely. I think I ended up using parts of each diagram to get it out. Any good sources for this? Thanks in advance!
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1993 Isuzu Truck Trooper (4 Door) V6-3165cc 3.2L SOHC (6VD1)
Vehicle Level Heating and Air Conditioning Heater Core Service and Repair
Service and Repair
HEATER UNIT/CORE
Removal Procedure
On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for system disarming and arming procedures.
Disconnect battery ground cable and drain cooling system.
Remove rear seat, then disconnect heater hoses from rear heater assembly.
Remove heater assembly attaching bolts, disconnect blower motor electrical connector, then remove rear heater assembly from vehicle.
Remove clamps and remaining heater hoses.
Disconnect blower resistor wiring harness, then remove attaching screw and resistor.
Remove seal, then the left and right support brackets.
Remove attaching screws and front duct assembly.
Remove case retaining clips, separate case, then remove heater core.
Reverse procedure to install.
On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for system disarming and arming procedures.
I am however get stuck on the removal of the two water hoses connected to the heater unit outside of the firewall. Do I need to get the clamps from under the vehicle ? I can see/feel the clamps but do not have ebough room from the top to disengage the clamps/hoses.
The heater core assembly with the "White Plastic housing" is made up of three pieces. If you require further details, please email me and I will send you the details.
For now.. those two hoses are holding me back. I have removed the dash and attachments from the inside already.
BTY, where did you buy your new heater core ?
Thanks.
James
The hoses from the engine to the heater core - I undid the motor side connections first, then got some ridiculously long needle nose pliers (cheapo ones from Sears Hardware) to undo the clamps from the heater core itself. This wasn't impossible from the top side, maybe your clamps are on crooked, or the wrong way around! BTW, a shorter handled set of angled needle nose pliers was needed to get the second (lower) clamp off.
I ordered the heater core from a place listed on car-part.com. There were several available, I got one from a salvage place in Michigan (eww, I'm from Ohio!), but it was in pristine condition.
A couple side notes -
1) I did have to take the white air handler apart to get the old core out, and needed to keep it apart to get the new core back in. It's a pain, but it did work.
2) There are two small hose pipes that stick through the firewall that need to be removed from the old heater core and attached to the new one. TRY NOT TO BREAK THEM!!! I did crack one of them trying to get the new core into the car, but I epoxied it, put electrical tape (just a little) around the outside, and prayed that the hose clamp could keep it all together. (It has for over a month now!)
3) To me, the hardest part of getting this back together was getting the new heater core back into place with the pipes through the firewall. The insulation on the outside of the firewall will fight against you, and the interior housing for the air-conditioner coil will be in the way. Loosen it all up and nudge it as far to the right as you can!!! It will eventually push through. Once it's back through and in position, I put on the front of the white air handler, and got the hoses connected up.
4) Watch for this!!! Once I got it back together, I tried to drive it to work the next morning. On the way, I saw that my temp was rising way up! It turns out that my thermostat was stuck shut. Since the heater core is in the loop with the engine, it is my nagging suspicion that this caused the heater core to blow in the first place. I had steam pouring out at the passenger seats floor! The thin aluminum in the heater core was the easiest place for the steam to blow out. I'd at least check this, or just replace the old thermostat while you've already got the system drained. A new one was $13.00 at NAPA.
Good luck! Post again if you have more questions! Good Luck!!! chris