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Chrysler Sebring Convertible Top and Sunroof Problems



  • I did not get an answer...but taking a hint from another post...i put some Velcro in the actual cavity (where the pin fits into as weel as a couple of pieces around the outside of that cavity...took the car on the roads around my house where the rattles were most present and guess works.....

    now I ( and my b-in -law who also has one) have to find out how to correct where the issue where a portion of the top where it connects to the rear window is pulling away....
  • our vinyl came loose there as well. I super glued it back down and it holds really well. I thought there would be some sort of adj. for the hooks to tighten them up
  • thanks me too but I did not see an adjustment...the black Velcro really works and one can really not see it as an appearance detractor...and , in any case, the absence of noise is worth my case we has some circular pieces of sticky back Velcro the is used to hang pictures and other objects.....I just cut them into halves and placed inside the cavity where the top pin fits..with of course the soft side out....and to ensure that there was not "bumping" from around the pin I placed a couple of pieces on the top of the fine

    will try the super glue on the top
  • hello... i am thinking of buying a 2000 jxi convertible. has about 88k on it. i kinda would like a general opinion from owners of the car on how it runs and problems around that milage area. honesty good and bad please would be appreciated. thanks all
  • I have owned 3 of these ..and although the mileage did not exceed 50K on any ( my wife's cars) I have had no problems, major or minor, with in spite of all of the consumer reports, etc critical comments about the Chrysler convertibles...I have had great experiences...I also had a valiant and dodge polara convertible..I have found them the best for the money...I would suggest you have a local trusted mechanic check the car for the obvious big ticket items...
  • annieceanniece Posts: 2
    Whatever you do...don't buy that car. I paid $10,000 for mine with 37,000 miles on it from CarMax in 2008 and I have put $8000.00 in repairs into it and mostly on the front end. I had to replace tie rod ends before 40,000 miles. It just broke down on me in the middle of the gas going to car!!! It is a piece of feces and I want to drive it off a cliff!
  • annieceanniece Posts: 2
    I know I cannot be the only one with sooooo many problems with the front end of my car! and freeze plugs! I have replaced 3 freeze plugs and 2 of those were behind the transmission! I had 3 broken motor mounts as well. I have had to replace the tie rod ends, ball joints, tie rods, about 4 times in 8 months. I drive 1.5 miles each way to work on a freeway...not like I'm out racing around. I am a grandmother and not a racer. This car has only 67,000 original miles on it and I started with the front end @ 37,000 miles the 2nd week I had it!! I got it from CarMax who does the "125" point check. Bull----! I have had CarMax redo the paint due to overspray, the tie rod ends and brakes..these are things that were included in the " we don't buy till we check kthe 125 points" category. They give you 30 days to fix problems and after that it is extended warranty.
    Reall!!!!! Is there anyone else who has experience so many issues with Sebring JXI convertable?????
  • Interior wet on the front seats after a car wash:

    I have a 2000 Sebring Convertible JX - after taking it to the car wash, the seats are wet on both the front driver's and front passenger side.

    Does anyone else have this problem? I thought it might be the convertible seal around the top or the weatherstripping around the windows. The weatherstripping around the windows cost around $ if anyone out there figured out this problem.. I would really appreciate letting me know. :confuse:
  • Had noise, went to mechanic, replaced struts and control arms, cost $1000. got good deal, however didn't solve noise. Now they say it is top. What is this noise and how do I fix it? :Thank you in advance.
  • susan_jsusan_j Posts: 2
    edited October 2010

    My sister's 2005 Chrysler Convertible Sebring window broke last night when I was in the driver's seat, soon after I hit the little electronic switch, probably because just prior to hitting it, one of the sides of the roof was not unlatched all the way. When I noticed it was not, I stopped the process, yet before anyone knew what was happening, SPLASH - glass rained onto my sister in the back seat. Seems to have been because of a design flaw: the switch should have had a fail safe mechanism to prevent it from starting until both sides were properly unlatched. (Seems the unequal pressure on the glass from having one side of the roof start to go down and the other not is what caused the back window to shatter.)

    That said, what to do? Has anyone had a similar situation? Seems this must not be all that uncommon. My hope is that Chrysler will do the right thing and replace the window at no cost to my sister. The closest dealer to her is probably in Los Angeles County.

    Thanks for any/all help.

  • Hi, it has been a while, but did u ever get a good answer to the whistling convertible top? Mine also squeaks real bad at tye roofline as well. Thanks for yourvtime..
  • Re: air leak under convertible roof. Mseningen, this was not my message. I have a 2008 vehicle with a retractible soft top. So far, no problems at all--but the warranty is about to expire on some of the components of the car. Jackie h.
  • Well, I found my own solution to the problem.

    I replaced all the weatherstripping around the windows including the front weatherstripping for the front window panel and the sides of both sides of the windows and rear windows.

    Then my mechanic at Burge Chrysler in West Los Angeles was able to bend down the top of the convertible so that it sat tighter on the weatherseals. This worked and it does not leak anymore. He worked on it (even though it took two times) but it was finally fixed.

    Keiko :D
  • I have a 2001 Chrysler Sebring convertible. When I drive the car in a winter snow storm it snows just as much inside the car as outside. I have taken it to the local Chrysler dealer and they tell me the top needs to be replaced because the clamps are not clamping the top down tight enough. There are no adjustments to make them tighter. Does anyone else have this problem and can it be remedied without replacing the entire top? I'm going to try velcro in the cavities where the roof clamps down per an earlier suggestion but I have little hope. I have tried putting a bath towel between the windshield and the roof and securing it there with the sun visors but that is really cumbersome. The weather stripping seems to be fine. Good thing it has a good heater!
  • GOOD NEWS: even though the car was no longer covered by any warranty, Chrysler paid part of the cost of the window replacement as an act of goodwill.

    Thanks Chrysler!
  • I have a 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible; it would rain inside of the car whenever I tried to wash it or use it in the rain.

    I had to replace all 5 major rubber window waterproofing seals on the car (one for the main front window, 4 for each driver and passenger front windows and rear windows.

    Then it still rained since the convertible top would not closed down completely where the handle clamps for the convertible.

    So my dealership technician at Buerge Ford in Los Angeles who is an angel, worked on it for several times, until he was able to adjust the tightness of the clamp and the top. I had to bring it in three times before he got it right.

    All I know that they did not buy any additional parts (once I bought the rubber windows seals) and worked on it so that it shut completely closed down on the rubber seals.

    It does not rain anymore inside my car. You have to be firm with the dealership and get them to fix it; also be nice to the technician who fixed it - it cost me alot of candy and cakes before he got it right.

    Asiangem :)
  • jasbyjasby Posts: 1
    Mine snows, too. I put liquid soap on the windshield header weather stripping and latched the top to see there the leak was. It seems the right side is tight (soap transferred to the Top), but not the left. I adjusted the hook as tighly as possible and even wound some Velcro around the hook (a suggestion I found on line), but it still leaks air and, I assume, snow or rain. It is still primarily on the left side. The shop manual shows an adjustment the will move the top header forward. I have not tried this yet, but I suspect that this is what asiagem's mechanic did, or one of the other adjustments described in the shop manual.

    Another poster suggested removing the hook (it screws out after removing the small lock screw) and grinding off the end so it can be screwed in even more than it can be now, but there is a limit to how much the threads on the hook will allow it to go into the holder. I also have a 97 and have never had a problem with is, but I think the securing mechanism is different.
  • tvashontvashon Posts: 1
    Purchased new Aug. 2010. Its a soft top. Its in the shop for the 3rd time. The top slides down fine but the deck lid will not close. Same problem all 3 times. Is this a common problem ? The first 2 times the dealer replaced a solenoid. I planned on keeping this car forever not so sure now. I do love it though. No other problems so far. Thanks.
  • pkacarspkacars Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Sebring that can put the top down easily with the switch, but to put the top up, I have to hold the button down and have someone get out and manually shut it, any suggestions on why this is?
  • bubyvabubyva Posts: 1
    I recently acquired a 2000 Sebring with the same problem..Is there a solution for this ? Top lowers fine on it's own but has to be helped in order to close..Please advise if you also have the same problem or a solution, Thanks..
  • walkernywalkerny Posts: 1
    On the flickering oil light, given the age of your vehicle it could be sludge retarding oil flow out of the sump. No mechanic, just past experience. I'd use a sludge flush run through the engine, and them immediately change the oil & filter.
  • dogglb_91dogglb_91 Posts: 1
    I am experiencing a water leak at the rear window seal of my 2001 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. The top is otherwise in pretty good condition. I would like to know if there is an effective way to re-seal the convertible top canvass to the rear glass to eliminate the leak or if it would be better to replace the existing convertible top. I would also like to know how to replace the top. Please advise.

    Thanks for your time and support.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,042
    You might check the discussion specific to Sebring Water Leaks. I believe that several of them are about the top leaking.


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  • illpapaillpapa Posts: 1
    2000 jxi sebring convertable Got water slushing in rear fender. Anyone know how to drain water?
  • kinzerkinzer Posts: 2
    I canjust about guarantee you have debris clogging your drains on your rocker 98 sebring had the same thing. they are designed to allow water 'inside the body', but it goes to kind of a gutter and drips probably got trach in there blocking the drains.....

    mine originally clogged from the back window breaking and the shards of glss blocked the holes...but road gunk can splach up there too.

    there are a few holes right under the door, between the tires...
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222
    illpapa, here's something one of our members posted in the Sebring Water Leaks forum - just click the link to get there.

    ClaireS, Host
    Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles


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  • hollib1hollib1 Posts: 1
    looking for info on the Chrysler Sebring Convertible tops heard that the vinyl ones crack really easy and if they are fix able or expensive to replace Is cloth better
  • I have a 99' Sebring Convertible(Great shape, only 50,000 miles on it-bought it 3 yrs ago with only 21,000 miles!) with the camel colored vinyl top, it's not garaged so it has been hit by the elements for the past 3 yrs. The seams on the side close to the top of the side windows is unraveling on both sides, I dont have leakage problems just noise on the side between the front passenger and driver side windows that come in contact with the soft top. Also my rear window has separated from the convertible top(outside only-no leaks that I am aware off). Any special adhesive I should use to bond it back together? And the seams, should I attempt to sew it back together myself? If anyone has had these problems, how did you come about fixing it and what were the costs? I know a brand new convertible kit is about $300-$ it worth buying a new one...? Not sure if I'm keeping the car or selling it to buy a new vehicle. I'd hate not getting the value's worth because of these issues =/
  • Any success stories on re-attaching the rag top to the rear window?

    The body shop said not a chance and quoted me $1200.00 for a complete new top?

    My solution is:

    JB Weld (glue) the rag top to the window again.
    That would take some trim part removal to free the rag top from the car.

    Do a visual where the ragtop was attached window.

    Create an Inside and Outside, "Border One" with Duct Tape : Masking off the area on the rear glass that I will apply glue too. That should keep excessive glue from getting on the glass.

    Create an Inside and Outside, "Duct Tape Fastner" : Create a "large Bandage", Over lap 4 or 5 strips of duct tape to create a really wide "duct tape fastner"

    Attach the duct tape fastner to the ragtops outside edge. Only attaching half the width of the "duct tape fastner" to the edge. The remaining half should is used to secure the ragtop back to the rear window.

    Apply the glue to the rear window area, apply glue only to the area masked off by Border One.

    Then stretch the rag top back to the glue on the bottom of the rear window.

    Complete the outside process by working the ragtop edge into the glue on the window; using the "duct tape fastner" to hold the ragtop in place until the glue cures.

    Repeat the process for the inside of the ragtop.

    Please reply with insight into:

    Type of adhesive or fastners you would use to achieve a fix.
    Removing trim work around the back of the car where top meets the car.
    And any other constructive thought you may have.

    Thank-you in advance for your time and any replies;

  • I have a 2001 Sebring Limited Convertible that has a leaking problem at the rear window and where it meets the windshield. I am not sure what is causing this problem because the car was garage kept until I bought it 8 months ago. The top is in pristine condition and not sure why it is leaking. We had 5" or rain one week and I found about a gallon of water where the convertible top folds into, I also had water run in from the corners in the front where it connects with the windshield. I really dont like getting wet when I drive. I need to know if it is because the top isnt securing tight to the windshield. If that is the problem how do I adjust the hooks to make it seal better in the front? Also what could be the culprit of it at the back window?

    Any answers will help I just need to know because this car is in Mint condition with 65k on the mileage.
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