Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chrysler Sebring Electrical Problems



  • I sprayed some 'BREAK FREE' into the switchs on the steering wheel a couple of time and now the cruise works find.
    Good Luck.
  • What did you do to fix your Chrysler Sebring windshield wipers when they were stopping immediately(not finishing or parking to the bottom of the windshield when turning them off). Was it the windshield wiper switch on steering wheel column or was it the windshield wiper motor park switch that had to be replaced or what did you do to fix it? I have a 98 Sebring LXi and it is doing the same exact thing that you describe. I already replaced the wiper switch on the steering column with new part and still have the same problem and was hoping you could tell me what you did to fix your problem, only thing I knew next to do was replace the windshield motor for wipers. But was not sure if it was something else. Please reply.
  • roxkulonroxkulon Posts: 1
    I just bought this car, and last night I realized my backup lights will not shut off. They will stay on all the time. Any solution to this problem. I don't want to just disconnect them, but I will if I have to. Thanks for you help with this.
  • lee157lee157 Posts: 1
    I just bought my daughter a 97 Sebring conv't.

    1. When driving the door locks are opening and closing (buttons on door going up and down)

    2. Interior light is now staying on (rear council).

    3. Tach and odometer work when they want.

    Any ideas?

  • All chrysler and dodge stratus with radio noises please do not spend a penny. simply clean all your battery terminal both and dont even waste time calling the dealer because they do not know their own cars the way they should. I worked on my car for 4 weeks and replace everything worth over $ 2000 to find the simple solution. please have fun and love your car again. As for me, no more chrysler for life. PLEASE PLEASE I DID ALL THE WORK FOR ALL OF YOU. I LITTELARY REPLACED EVERYTHING ON MY CAR TO SEE WHAT WAS DOING THIS. THE DEALER IS FULL OF SHHHHHHIT. THE POSITIVE POLL IS USUALLY THE ONEMAKING THE POPPING SOUND THRU THE SPEAKER. GOOD LUCK
  • i have the same dash configuration as you folks. taking it to the dealer will only end up costing needless money. after quite a bit of trouble shooting and pealing the dash apart many times. it is narrowed down to a small transformer ( converts 12v. to on the back of the circuit board in the cluster. after an easy 6mos. of monitoring with a tester always attached. i can say without a doubt it's the transformer that produces the intermittent problem with the blackouts. until you can find someone in your area that does this kind of electrical work. (like fixing neon beer signs) you can cheat by buying one of those little battery operated lights for clipping on a book when your reading. clip it to the ac. duct near the dash and aim it on the cluster. (how's that for redneck for you. my wife won't let me live that one down) please don't let the dealer scam you for a multi function switch.
  • you will want to check out posting #199
  • check for any loose conections in the area of the started.
  • Are the seat belts part of an electrical circuit? The under-passenger seat-infinity amp blew because of water flooding. Everything worked fine but the battery would drain out so we cut the power wire going to the amp. Not sure how soon after, could have been immediate - not sure, the seat belt wont loosen so my passenger can put it on. I wondered if the seat belt apparatus is part of an electrical circuit, if there are fuses, and so on. I sure would appreciate any advice and information. Thanks

    Happy Rhodes.
  • Theses electrical problems started happening with my 2006 Chrysler Sebring, 4 door, one by one, over a period of two years:

    1st. My automatic lock and lock control does not work on the driver side.
    2nd. Some dahsboard lights (air, radio) would delay to come on.
    3rd. The air blower only blows at highest setting.
    4th. 20 Amp fuse to the ignition i dstarting to pop (twice in the past 6 month period).
  • jbuscjbusc Posts: 11
    In September 2011, my 2001 Sebring Convertible had your problem #4 - First an independent mechanic installed an aftermarket starter thinking he had solved the problem but it continued. Then I brought it to a Chrysler Dealership and the shop foreman was able to replicate the problem, turns out the aftermarket starter was bad too! He replaced the started with an OEM starter and the problem was solved. (I returned the aftermarket starter to the independent mechanic for a full refund). Over two years later the 20 amp starter fuse has never blown again. (Knock on wood - No fuse has blown since.

    Problem number 3 sounds like the blower resistor needs to be replaced, this is a fairly common problem on many vehicles which is easily fixed.

    Best of luck with getting your Sebring's issues fixed.
  • jbuscjbusc Posts: 11
    In September 2011, my 2001 Sebring Convertible had your problem #4 - First an independent mechanic installed an aftermarket starter thinking he had solved the problem but it continued. Then I brought it to a Chrysler Dealership and the shop foreman was able to replicate the problem, turns out the aftermarket starter was bad too! He replaced the started with an OEM starter and the problem was solved. (I returned the aftermarket starter to the independent mechanic for a full refund). Over two years later the 20 amp starter fuse has never blown again. (Knock on wood - No fuse has blown since.

    Problem number 3 sounds like the blower resistor needs to be replaced, this is a fairly common problem on many vehicles which is easily fixed.

    Best of luck with getting your Sebring's issues fixed.
  • cm57cm57 Posts: 1
    Mine did same thing. The problem was so simple that I couldnt believe it. At the drivers door theres the black switch that pushes in when door is closed, pops out when door opens. That thing was stuck and would sometimes pop out by itself, sometimes wouldnt. Anyway, I simply replaced it with another one from a junkyard. But, i could have also sprayed wd 40 on it and pushed it in and out over and over until it loosened itself up. But ever since then, those crazy intermittent lights coming on and off all by themselves is over.
    As for the check engine light, what is the code? if its the dreaded p0440 or in that area, you can put fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank for the next 2 or 3 fill ups and that will end that cel issue. But you need to let us know the code why the cel light is on before we can actually give you any feedback.
  • texrodeotexrodeo Posts: 3
    edited October 2013
    My roomie has a 2002 Sebring Limited Convertible that he had purchased in August 2012 with at the time just over 64k on the digital clock. It now has just over 71k on it. Anyways a few months before this I had an electrical issue that looked like a burned wire somewhere and a puff of smoke under the drivers side engine compartment. I tightened up the loose remote ground on the strut Tower and everything was fine. Later on it did the same to him and he turned the car off and restarted and it was fine. Well about 2 weeks ago he went down to the doctors office and back and armed the security system like normal. I went out about an hour or so later to get the mail in, I happened to look in the car and the security light was not flashing. I open the door and there is No Odometer (It Now reads 0 miles on the clock) There is No dash response from the gauges and warning lights except for the E-Brake Light and Oil Pressure Light come On. I ran the Instrument cluster test with no Errors all working and It indicated "No DTCs", Also there is no Horn, Wipers, Dome Lights, Trunk Release, Power Door Locks/Keyless Entry, AC, Rear Defroster, Dash Light Illumination, Warning Lights, The Trip Computer indicates the Compass Heading but Nothing else, No Power Top or Heated Seats either.

    Here is what is Working. The Car Starts and Seems to drive as Normal, I have as I said the E-Brake Light and the Oil Pressure Light on the Dash, The Power Windows, Outside Lights, Turn Signals and Hazards, Reverse Lights, Radio/AMP, Power Mirrors. The Transmission Indicator on the Dash.

    I have Posted to every Blog known to man about this. I have Contacted the Dealer that wants $95 just to look at and Diagnose it and If there is Wire repair they will do it for that. But if there is more to it then the Price is More, and That Frightens me immensely when I live on a very fixed monthly income and so does the roomie. I even went as far as emailing Chrysler in order to point out how ridiculous this is at this age of vehicle and the low amount of miles. I also indicated that I never had these kind of issues with any other car including Japanese cars, especially; that I had ever owned and I had explained my financial situation. I then get this very cold form letter back praising their wonderful 5-Star Dealers and their perspective service departments and also the fact that I have no warranty on this vehicle. So No Help with anything thus far and I have an approximately 2500 lb. Paperweight in the driveway. I have Taken this car apart as best as I can with the limited tools and my limited knowledge of cars looking for an obvious frayed of burned wires that I could see. PC/MAC Repair Tech of more years than I care to count, I am. Car Mechanic I know enuff to be Very dangerous. If anyone has any Ideas, Please give me a Shout.


  • Siebring convertible had issues with roof mechanism but now the engine warning light comes on and the car runs on 5 cylinders then after 5 mins it pops on to 6 cylinders or waits till the next trip
    Mechanic reset dashboard warning and found no faults - now they want to take the engine management system out and check it out
    Apart from selling the vehicle when it runs on 6 - is there a quick fix ...????
  • The engine will not even crank over. I jumped the battery and still not cranking, figured it was the starter so me n my brother removed the starter (Pain in the butt) took it to a rebuild shop and it tested fine. Put the starter back on and still won't turn over. My brother kept trying to start it when all of the sudden WHAM!!! IT STARTED!!! I let it idle for a while, hopped in and drove her for a bit, returned home and shut it off, cranked her again and it started, shut it off and cranked it again and ............. click!!. That was two days ago as of this note. I have checked fuses under the hood and in car and all are fine. I did the engine diagnostic thing where you turn the key on/off 3 times and get a reading of P 05 13. Can anyone shine a little light on this for me and maybe see if this code has anything to do with my problem? I would be so thankful if you can help. Thank you
  • According to the Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge Computer Codes.

    •P0513 - Theft prevention system misread Sentry Key or you accidentally put the wrong key into or near the ignition.

    So I would say something to do with the Sentry/Theft Control Device.
  • Hey thank you Tex that gives me something to check out. I forgot to mention that when I was trying to start it the other day the horn started honking like the panic button had been activated on the key fob. Gonna check and see if the transmitter for the anti-theft system is faulty. Thanks again I appreciate your help!
  • No Problem Man. I Hope you are able to get Your Sebring Going easier than It will be for me.
  • Here is one for you guys. I have a 2000 Sebring Convertible, I went out to start it and nothing happened. All that happens is the mileage and the P-R-N-D shows up on the instrument panel, up but no accessories turn on or any of the warning lights or radio come on. The battery is fully charged. I also turned the headlights on and tried to start it and the lights didnt dim. it is blowing the starter fuse in the fuse cluster under the hood. What is the cause of this problem? I need to know because I really dont want to take it to a shop if it is something I can fix. Please help.... Thanks
  • Try changing out one of the fuses in the front of the engine compartment.
  • I checked all the fuses they are good , battery is new and I had the starter tested and it is good. what else should I check?
  • ranrus1ranrus1 Posts: 1

    I have a 2002 Sebring and the power windows recently quit working, I put a new fuse in and still nothing. Ironically, I have no power to the left headlight now either. I changed the bulb twice and checked the fuse, it is still good. Can anyone help me? LOST.

  • 97 Sebring Convertible - please help!
    Hi, anyone know why when I turn my headlights on, my whole dash will go dead? My mileage and rpm haven't worked since I've got the car. I read that thoes are out because of the chip behind the dash. But when I got the car that wasn't an issue with me. My issue is the speedometer and gas gage go dead after a little while when I turn my headlights on. It used to just send the speedometer needle in a twitch hovering over the speed I was going. Now everything goes dead. I already replaced the battery. Someone told me when the battery is dieing that car electronics can do funny things like that. Why is my speedometer going out and what will it take to fix?
  • 2005 Sebring Convertible
    I am really stumped with this one. I have no electric trunk release, I can only open it with the key! It worked fine than one day nothing! It will not work with either key fob or from the dash (I know the key needs to be on for the dash release to work but still nothing) I have checked relays, fuses, and the wiring running into the trunk deck and have found nothing. Any ideas?
  • Got a 2000 Sebring convertable with less than 65,000 original miles. I've been driving this car for the last seven months without any issues what so ever. Then suddenly today, all of the instrument cluster panel stopped working, no speedometer, no gas level, no RPM, but the digital milage is lit up indicating "0". Along with that, the winsheild wiper won't work, and the roof won't go up or down now! Also the AC isn't cooling anymore. So far I did a quick check on the fuses, in the engine and also near the door, and they appear to be fine. I keep hearing about a falty instrument cluster panel to be the cause of many issues like this. But not sure with all the other electrical issues all faulting at the same time. Is this an electrical short, or something else? Any ideas??
  • pzhivulinpzhivulin Los Angeles, CAPosts: 1
    edited April 2016
    Had overnight battery discharge problem with 2001 Sebring GTC Convertible.
    Changed alternator, then battery. It helped only for couple of days.
    Recently I decided to investigate why oil and break lamps on the instrument claster are still working, when car is locked.
    Checked all the fuses, and then when I disconnected fuse 11 from the dash fuse box - lights went off. Сhecked overnight - car starts w/o any problems.
    Just wonder should I insert this fuse back every time. Today I've made a ride without it, and see no problems at all for now
  • I know the last comment on here is from 2008 and it's now 2017 but maybe this will help anyone who may still have their car who have complained of an issue or any future person to visit this forum. Please read this whole thing because I think I have the solution to these issues at the end of my story (in case anyone wants to skip the story).

    We got a 2010 Chrysler Sebring Convertible 2 years ago used from an older lady who didn't drive it much. The thing was beautiful and only had 60,000 miles on it. We got it for a good price. Car ran and still runs great (knock on wood lol). However about a year after getting it, the one night in winter, I got home around 9pm and my driver's side window would not go up. After messing with the button for a bit, I finally got it to go up. Thereafter, I didn't have any window issues for many many months. Then it started one day with the passenger side. For the life of me, I could not get that window up. Shot in the dark, I thought, maybe it would be like my best friends beater car from high school where if you hit the lock button the wipers would go, or if you push the horn the doors would lock lol. So I hit the lock button, then pressed the window to go up and it worked. Had minor window issues here and there for a few months, but I would just hit the lock button and if the window didn't go up, I then hit the unlock button and tried the window again. I would keep doing this and after a few tries the window would eventually go up without wasiting a lot of time. Then it started to become more frequent.

    Then one day, I noticed my interior lights on my heating and cooling controls (only) were really really dim when they never were before. I thought it might be a fuse. Then, they next day they worked fine.  A couple month later I started noticing the heating and cooling lights becoming dim more frequently. Then a family member told me I had a head light out. 3 days later, as I'm sitting the car at night, the small grassy hill in front of my car looked bright on both sides. My mom was outside and I asked her if I had a headlight out and she said no. So a few more days went by, I stop by my house and ran inside real quick and when I came out, I noticed I had a headlight out. Very confused at this point, the next evening, I went and bought a new headlight bulb. When I put the bulb in, the headlight didn't work. I maybe be a woman but, I have changed many headlight bulbs in my 35 years in many different vehicles. I know I didn't touch the bulb when installing it. So I thought maybe the bulb was bad when I bought it. I went back to Walmart and exchanged it. I then installed the 2nd new bulb and sure enough, the bulb again didn't work. However, about 3 days later, that 2nd new bulb was working and worked for about 25 to 30 mins then stopped working again. Which clearly told me it wasn't the bulb.

    The night I changed the 2nd new bulb, I sat in the car for about 45 mins and started Googling it. I came across what's called TIPM (pronounced TIP (like a point) then the letter M). What I found out was Dodge Chrysler & Jeep all have issues with the TIPM. I was just skimming through all this info but if I read correctly, the TIPM is possibly like the central computer system of these vehicles. Like I said, I was skimming quicky through lots of websites. What I found out was from 2007 to 2014 these cars have a TIPM issue. So much so, people were complaining that weird [non-permissible content removed] was happening in there car like lights going off and on repeatedly like the car was possessed. I found out that some Chryslers had such a defective TIPM that it was becoming a safety issue because the airbags weren't deploying. They actually issued a recall in certain years of the Chryslers (I'm not sure about the recall in the Dodge and Jeeps). The TIPM can effect everything from lights, airbags, door locks, air conditioning and much more.

    Your TIPM can be replaced and reset. What I have read on many sites is (DO NOT TAKE IT TO THE DEALER OR SHOP) replacing or restarting the TIPM is very easy and if your a women (or a man) and your not comfortable doing it, find a  friend who will. The reason is because, dealership or shops may tell you all kinds of stuff with the TIPM that isn't needed especially a shop because some shops don't know how defective the TIPM can be. Not that the shop is trying to pull one over on you, but they aren't familiar with the TIPM issues, so they think what they are telling you is correct.

    (This is what I saw in a YouTube video,  so this is not my own knowledge) but replacinge or resetting the TIPM can fix the issues and you do this by unplugging your battery and using a zip tie tiying the positive and negitive together, then you take the TIPM and carefully unplug the Jack's from the TIPM and let it sit for 2 hours to over night with the battery disconnected and the TIPM disconnected. When you plug it back in, if the car doesn't start just unplug and replug the Jack's to the TIPM. From what I gathered, it can sound like the jack clips back in but if the car still doesn't start it will most likely be that the Jack's weren't clipped in properly (even if u heard it click). They said some people have had to do plug in, unplug and plug in 3, 4, 5 and sometimes 6 times until it clips in correctly and the connection is made. You can find a video on how to do this on YouTube. But all of these issues I have read on here could very well be the issues with the TIPM and I didn't read every one of them but, I read a lot and I didn't see anyone mention this.

    I do not know if this is my issues YET. I will in a few weeks when I take it in for inspection. However, considering the issues I have had with the headlight working then not working to working again (electrical), issues with the windows working and then not working then working again (electrical), the dim interior lights (electrical), I am thinking there is a very good chance my issues is the TIPM. My car also falls into the year of the recall catagory, and since the car was only 6 years old when I bought it from this lady, I doubt she had the TIPM replaced. So for these issues, is what makes me think it's the TIPM. Come January, when I get it back from inspection, I will ask my uncle what the issues were and I will add a follow-up post here. 
Sign In or Register to comment.