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PT Cruiser Electrical and Lighting Problems



  • geek5geek5 Posts: 8

    30 Amp fuse was making/breaking contact. It looked good visually and continuity check at one point was good but it was blown, ever so slightly. Suggestion for haunting syndrome of electrical problems: don't check the fuses, REPLACE THEM!
  • bl36bl36 Posts: 1
  • nervoustnervoust Posts: 4
    Ok so my running lights and interior dash light all went out the same night. They didn't flicker, there was no pop, snap nor crakle; they worked when I parked the car at a resturant and the after eating I came out to a dark car. The blinders work, the head lights work and the hazard lights work, but the front and rear running lights won't turn on. I had teh fusses check, i changed the bulbs and i even bought a brand new multi purpose switch and changed it out, but the freaking lights still won't turn on. And now the freaking brake lights are on and won't turn off.
    Would anyone happen to now what I can do without having to go through the dealer and spending a crap load amount of money.
    Oh also that new switch I bought is back in the box and if anyone wants to buy it let me know. I paid $37 for it and will sell it for $25; it cam straight from the dealer. :confuse: :cry:
  • royj47royj47 Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 PT CONV 2.4T, Stage 1, which was purchased new in April 2007, 22,000 miles on it. 3 weeks ago the battery light would intermittently come on, I would turn off the engine and restart and the light would stay off. It has progressed to the point that it now comes on after starting when the brake is pressed. It dosen't come on if I turn on the engine and it sits at idle in the drive. Any ideas? The OEM battery was replaced last September, battery connections to the OEM cables replaced at the same time. Is there a way to get the diagnostic code, and if so how?
  • billybugbillybug Posts: 8
    Chrysler PT Cruiser Computer CodesGetting the codesAll Chrysler vehicles with fuel injection have had some form of "error checking." In many older vehicles, a person could easily turn the key back and forth a few times to get a two-digit code. With the PT Cruiser, a longer code seems to be used. In addition, as with all vehicles sold in the United States, the system is OBDC3 compatible, so that a standard diagnostic device can be plugged into a standard jack to get computer codes.

    When some problems are found, the computer lights up the "engine light;" others are ignored until a mechanic asks for them. The "engine light" stays on when a serious emissions or engine problem is found, until the code is erased.

    Chrysler vehicles have a "limp in" mode which reverts to a pre-programmed "guessing map" for timing, fuel delivery, etc. when a critical sensor fails. Those who have been in other cars when their oxygen sensor failed can feel grateful for this feature, though it can be confusing - for example, in some (maybe all) models, the automatic transmission is limited to second gear! The engine light also turns itself on for two seconds every time the car is started so you will know the bulb still works.

    The "engine light" may shut itself off if there are no problems for three consecutive trips, or three consecutives engine misfire or fuel system tests with no problems.

    To get the codes, move the key from Run to Off to Run to Off to Run within five seconds. It does not always work the first time. (Run is JUST before Start). The code will show up in the odometer - thank your lucky stars for this, since the codes used to get blinked on the engine light. Alan Borgolotto noted that “if you do it too quickly it doesnt work (got to wait to see the odometer light up” and that if you have no codes, the odometer will say “done.”

    Another method which may in most cars just test the instrument panel is to put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number and some other, irrelevant information, then show the error codes starting with P. Note that this method may not work. It's easier but not necessarily better.

    You can also get the codes using an OBDC III scan tool. That's the best way to do it, but not everyone wants to spend the cash on these tools.

    No matter which method you use, some codes will not appear - codes specific to Chrysler such as individual transmission malfunction codes. Dealers and some specialty shops can get these using a terribly expensive scan tool.

    Information source: (may no longer be up)

    The codes and what they meanNot all codes are relevant to the PT Cruiser! Codes may start with a "P" in your odometer.

    Code What it means
    30 Sensor heater relay problem
    36 Sensor heater relay problem
    106 MAP sensor voltage out of range detected at startup
    107 MAP sensor voltage too low
    108 MAP sensor voltage too high
    112 Intake air temperature sensor voltage low
    113 Intake air (charge) temperature sensor voltage high
    116 Coolant temparature sensor reading doesn't make sense
    117 Engine coolant temperature sensor voltage low
    118 Engine coolant temperature sensor voltage high
    121 Throttle position sensor and MAP sensor disagree with each other
    122 Throttle position sensor voltage low
    123 Throttle position sensor voltage high
    125 Taking too long to reach proper operating temparature and switch to energy-efficient mode
    129 Bad barometric pressure sensor (thanks, John King)
    130 Sensor heater relay problem
    131 Oxygen sensor seems to be shorted out or broken
    147 Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly)
    151 Oxygen sensor voltage problem - short circuit to ground?
    152 Oxygen sensor voltage problem - short circuit to active 12V?
    153 Oxygen sensor response too slow
    154 Oxygen sensor does not show either a rich or lean condition - may need replacement
    155 Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly)
    157 Oxygen sensor voltage problem - short circuit to ground?
    158 Oxygen sensor voltage problem - short circuit to active 12V?
    159 Oxygen sensor response too slow
    160 Oxygen sensor does not show either a rich or lean condition - may need replacement
    161 Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly)
    171 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too lean (too much fuel is being added as a correction).
    172 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too rich (too much air is being added as a correction).
    174 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too lean (too much fuel is being added as a correction).
    175 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too rich (too much air is being added as a correction).
    176 Flex fuel sensor can't be seen
    178 Flex fuel sensor problem
    179 Flex fuel sensor problem
    182 Compressed natural gas temperature sensor problem
    183 Compressed natural gas temperature sensor problem
    201 Injector #1 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
    202 Injector #2 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
    203 Injector #3 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
    204 Injector #4 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
    300 Misfire detected in multiple cylinders.
    301 Misfire detected in cylinder #1.
    302 Misfire detected in cylinder #2.
    303 Misfire detected in cylinder #3.
    304 Misfire detected in cylinder #4.
    320 Crankshaft position sensor reference signal cannot be found while the engine is cranking.
    325 Knock sensor (#1) signal is wrong.
    330 Knock sensor (#2) signal is wrong.
    340 No camshaft signal being received by the computer
    350 A coil is drawing too much current.
    351 Coil #1 is not reaching peak current at the right time
    352 Coil #2 is not reaching peak current at the right time
    353 Coil #3 is not reaching peak current at the right time
    354 Coil #4 is not reaching peak current at the right time
    401 A required change in air/fuel mixture was not detected during diagnostic test.
    403 An problem was detected in the EGR solenoid control circuit.
    404 The EGR sensor's reported position makes no sense
    405 EGR position sensor voltage wrong.
    406 EGR position sensor voltage wrong.
    412 The secondary air solenoid control circuit seems bad (this is used for the aspirator).
    420 The catalyst seems inefficient (#1).
    432 The catalyst seems inefficient (#2).
    441 Evaporative purge flow system not working properly
    442 A leak has been detected in the evaporative system!
    443 Evaporative purge flow system solenoid not working
  • dea2221dea2221 Posts: 1
    We have a 2007 PT Cruiser ande are having the same problem. Just got back from the dealer and they could not find the problem. Any luck yet with diagnosing the problem.
  • nervoustnervoust Posts: 4
    I just took it to an mechanic that specializes in electrical issues and he's trying to narrow it down. He's thinking it has to be the wiring under the panel in of the steering column, but he's not for sure for sure. Now one of my friends knows of a Cruiser that had the same or extremely similar problem, I told her to ask the dealership selling the car what they did to solve it. Also by any chance, on your PT have you had any after market work done to it that would interfere with the wiring or involve any of the wiring.
    Oh quick question for you; I keep hearing that there are two fuse boxes in my car but can't find the other one for anything. I know of the one under the hood, but where's the second one? Would you happen to know? :confuse:
  • tmstechtmstech Posts: 1
    Our '03' Cruiser battery dies. We experienced this a month ago, and I recharged batt. Then it happened again a week later, so I decided that the original batt must be giving up the ghost. Got new one at WalMart, and no problems for a month, then yesterday morning - dead batt -. Put the charger on for an hour, then started car and ran for about 5 minutes. After shutting off engine, I removed neg (-) terminal and looked for power drain by using milliAmp reading from neg (-) post and the now disconnected neg (-) cable. Initially I was in the 70 milliamp draw, but that dropped to about 9 milliAmp after about 3 or 4 minutes (I assume computers shutting off for the delay). So I went to bed happy that there was no batt drain. Today after no use all day, I went out to it this afternoon and it is totally dead again. To note, our weather has been in the 100's for a few days now. We also have noticed for a few weeks that the AIRBAG light stays on during engine running time. we have noticed a couple of times the FOG lamp is lit, but that has only been a couple of times in the last 6 months.
  • geek5geek5 Posts: 8
    pull the fog light fuse (or replace the control cluster unit on the steering column with the turning signal and light controls).

    just LAST WEEK i finally got my problems fixed

    after i replaced the battery, ignition module, two starters and the computer.
    oh, and several tows home from Philly.

    the battery cables were bad - specifically the positive cable. it looked good and i had plenty of power for lights - but not enough to the starter.

    so far so good - AND it was under $100 for the cables - almost $200 for the diagnostics and the labor - BUT it's fixed - knock on wood!!!

  • poe4poe4 Posts: 2
    Did you ever get this problem fixed? I have a 2007 PT Cruiser that is doing the same thing and they are going to replace the hazard switch which is apparently the hottest of all the knobs (but they all get hot). I don't think switching one switch is the answer. I can smell something burning, but apparently the technicians can't. I am also afraid it will catch fire.
  • nervoustnervoust Posts: 4
    I have a guy that's going to look at my wiring for my tail lights and interior dash. Did anybody check your wires to make sure nothings rubbing and it shouldn't be or there aren't any lose wires somewhere? You really shouldn't even be driving that car if it smells like somethings burning.I really hope you get that checked out and fixed soon.
  • nanjefnanjef Posts: 1
    2005 PT convertible turbo. The dash suddenly stopped working. No odometer, fuel gauge, speedometer, etc. Radio works interior lights do not. Car starts and runs fine. Anyone with similar problems? Fuses appear to be fine checked dash fuses with continuity tester.
  • poe4poe4 Posts: 2
    Thanks for your reply. The dealer checked everything, at first couldn't find anything wrong. Then he burned his finger on the emergency flasher, which he replaced. It hasn't got sizzling hot since, but warm, but only when the lights are on, which isn't often. Haven't smelled anything burning since.
  • I have a used 2003 pt cruiser. About a week ago the electrical light came on while I was driving. (The one that looks like a battery.) After a while the vehicle started to drive funny...Like it didnt have much power. I took it home and parked it. It was starting fine...until one evening (couple days later) when I desided I would drive it. It wouldnt start. The dash would light up but the engine didnt turn over instead I heard clicks. Soooo...We got a new battery. It started but cut off. So now we are thinking it may be the altenator??
  • geek5geek5 Posts: 8
    get new battery cables $60 and install or have them installed. i replaced two perfectly good starters, the battery, ignition module and the computer first. it was the positve cable. light were bright but very low current getting to the starter.
  • havoc2havoc2 Posts: 1
    i have a 2002 PT Crusier. check engine light came on one day while driving my roommates to work. i changed all fluids and it remained on. i started to get frustrated for severial reasons. why have so much of the engine depedant on the computer board, or the OBD. needless to say, the light is still on. what would cause the light to remain on after changing all fluids and changing the spark plugs
  • We had a light. AAmco transmission shops were advertising free diagnosis. Went there and got a code showing the computer had gone bad. Went to Chrysler dealer and had the computer replaced for FREE. There is a federal pollution warranty thing that if car is 8 years or less and less than 80,000 miles, the government has to pay. 2002? probably too many miles by now but you might want to check it out.
  • Ok not quite sure what you mean by had a light. But you're cars computer had gone bad, that I understand. Now my question is what year is your Chrysler or is it still under warranty? My cruiser is a 2007 but mot under warranty anymore do to the mileage. I just found out I need to get my computer fixed or replaced as well but am terrified as to how much it's going to cost.
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    How many miles are on the 2007 Cruiser? If it's less than 80k, you may be covered. The emissions warranty covers the powertrain module, I believe. The emissions warranty is for 5 or 7 years and I believe 80k. Check your warranty booklet for further info. Good luck.
  • i have a serious problem and hope someone can shine some light on the issue. my pt cruisers engine warning light came on and for some reason the car will only rev to 2500rpm then i lose power to the engine untill the revs come down to 2000rpm and the engine kicks back in. this restricts me from pulling off quickly at junctions and i can only get a top speed of 55mph.if anyone has any thoughts on this it would be appreciated as i have taken it to a garage and they havent got a clue they changed a sensor on the car but no different. thanks
  • I just bought this car 3 months ago with "as is no warranty" (stupid of me, I know!).
    Had starter replaced after it went out a couple of weeks after purchase. Then about 3 weeks ago, while leaving for work, it wouldn't go over 20mph. Tried turning around to go home and get my other car, but when I turned the corner, it seemed as though there was no power steering, then it died on the road in the left lane in the wrong direction. Couldn't get it started. turn the key, nothing. Finally got it started and backed out og the way and parked. Waited for my roommate to come by on his way home from work. He got in, it started up just fine, and drove just fine. Next day, drove it to work with roommate following me. Halfway, I came to a stop, and it died when I started accelarating. Couldn't get it to start, not even crank. Had it towed to my mechanic. He couldn't find anything wrong. For a week this happened, and luckily got it to the mechanic and he still couldn't find the problem. Last time it happened he found a wire going from the battery compartment that connects to another wire which goes to the "main power supply" was shorting out and losing connection. This fixed it for about a week and a half. Now this time, on 11/20/09, when I came to a stop light, it died when I tried to accelerate. I didn't even move, it just died. Couldn't get it started for about 20 minutes then it did start and I pulled over. Couldn't get it started the next day and had it towed. Now, my mechanic says that the "crankshaft sensor went bad" had it replaced and "computer still not reading engine trying to turn over". He tried everything and still nothing. Sometimes it cranks, sometimes nothing in both park and neutral. Now he's looking at hte wireing schematics to see if it will shine some light on it. Anyone else have any problems like this? I really love this car, when it runs and it runs great when it actually starts!!
  • Hi, our 2002 PT Cruiser just starting this same problem today with the fog lights staying on. Did a mechanic replace the switch or was that something a non-mechanic could do? My husband can repair most things. Thanks.
  • Well it finally came to a head today. All the dash lights came on, dropped out of OD into 2nd gear, and the widows wouldn't go up or down. :mad: When I stopped it wouldn't start, I opened the hood and found the positive battery clamp split in half, on the back side under the wires. :cry: Replaced everything is good. :)
  • My cruiser did the same thing I pulled the fuse.
  • pull fuse until you can fix.thats what I did
  • check plug wires at see if one has a cut on it you can,t see in day.I had a little ford that did that no one could find out why it was hestation .it may not be but you can see.
  • I have a 2006 PT Cruiser- and all of the sudden the dashboard gauges went dead. Odometer, speedometer, gas, engine etc as well as the interior lights.
    the car runs fine- the stereo and air work - and the fuses have been checked and are fine. Please help !
  • crm3crm3 Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2002 with the same problem the person stated he was trying to put a bulb in roof light and they blue?
  • crm3crm3 Posts: 2
    I have no gauges or dash lights. Any ideas? Checked fuses
  • At 3 a.m. for no reason, my alarm went off. Then the next morning, my "hatch open" light continued to be on..even though I opened and closed the hatch several times.
    When I parked the car, the interior light would remain on for a long the car thought the hatch was still open. While driving the interior light would stay on as the car thought the hatch was open. This finally stopped, though the hatch open indicator light remained on. Once while driving the car would ding, and the interior light would come on briefly, and then go off. all stopped..everything is fine now, though I do not initiate the security system, as I don't want to get up in the middle of the night to disarm it. My fog lights quit working a long time ago, but would come on occasionally for no reason..I pulled the fuse.

    Any idea what kind of electrical gremilins I have in my car?
    2001 purchased in May 2000 135,000 miles
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