My wife has an 02 Liberty that she loves. Been problem free through 73,000 miles except for the blower control. This is a 4 position switch that only the fourth position works on. Does anyone know if this sounds like a switch, or is it something more complicated? If it is a switch, I can probably change it, if not probably a trip to the dreaded dealer. Thanks
I'm not sure if it was on this board or the Wrangler board but I just read someone stating they had the same problem. Turned out to be a resistor in the circuit used by the first three settings. The highest setting bypasses the resistor in the circuit which provides the full fan speed. Good luck.
I discovered a blower relay in the box under the hood just ahead of the battery. When removing it, it also killed the #4 blower operation, so I'm on the right track. Can anyone tell if by replacing that relay will solve the problem, or do I have to keep searching to find the resistor associated with the lower speed blower operation. By the way, the system is developed by Johnsons Control who seem to be favored by Chrysler.
I sure don't want you digging into your dashboard on this so please check it out before following my guess...Just something to consider, though...
I remember working on my old '88 Chevy Beretta for a dashboard light problem and was interested to see the back of the blower fan control switch had different-sized resistors across the contacts on the back of the switch. Is it possible that's where the blower fan control resistors are located?
I sure wish I could remember where I read that about a resistor controlling positions 1-3 and 4 was not in series with the resistor. You might do a search in the Wrangler board or the Liberty board...I was pretty sure someone had the answer to what you were looking for.
I had the same problem, #1,2. I found a web sit that has online service manuals ($25USD). The resistor is located behind the glove box. Open up the glove box, then on each side, you should see the clips that stop the glove box from opening up all the way. Squeeze them towards each other and the glove box opens up. (empty glove box 1st). the resistor is towards the right. There was a red locking clip on the bottom, getting this to come out was the biggest problem, it does NOT come off, just out. then remove the cable connections, then two bolts (5/16). It took me about 30 minutes total. Mopar part number on the bag 1-05139719AA. Cost was $23.63 CND with tax.
Thanks for the help. I was able to replace this resistor in aprox 15 min. As you said the toughest part of the whole fix is the red locking clip. I broke mine in the process of removing the old resistor. Once broken, I removed the resistor easily and used electrical tape to tape the connector to the resistor. Oh well, heater now works perfect. Thanks again
Thanks for the help..Replaced and everything working fine..This is the only place that I found that described what, where, and how to fix..You're right, the red clip was the hardest...lee
I have a 2004 Jeep Liberty, and my drivers side taillight,tag light and front marker lights all stopped working,the turn signal and brake lights still work,anyone know what the problem is :sick:
Im gonna go with a lose connector, happened to my buddies liberty and it was almost the same problem, had no high beam turnsignals and rear running lights however had brakes, after he tried to fix it himself and couldnt figure out how to replace the bulb i came over and figured it out. What had happend is the red safty clip had either broke or fallen out, and the connector came loose just enough to not make connection.
I've had the speedometer stop working twice in my 2003 Liberty. Both times dealer fixed it under warranty. Now it's out of warranty. Do I have a hope of getting them to fix it again on their dime? Is this a persistent problem with Libertys? I'm also having trouble with the blower. Now it only works at high speed. Are the two related?
I found out that the Liberty has a fuse that controls each side of the Jeep, I never t hought of checking the fuses since the passengers side worked, my baby is back to its old self..thanks.
Just had the same problem with my 2003 liberty. Dealer fixed under warranty. The resistor needed replacement. Nothing is wrong with the fan switch. I believe the resistor is located behind the glove box. Empty out glove box, push in clips on each side, the box will swing down, giving access to the lower portion of the dash, wires, etc.
OK the dealer fixed the speed sensor for the third time on his dime claiming that now all 3 speed sensors have been changed. Are there 3 speed sensors or will there suddenly be 4 speed sensors when it is fixed the fourth time?
On my 2002 Liberty is one speed sensor, placed on the top of rear differential. I had 2x problem with it. Second time it was only broken wire direct on this sensor. Fixed it by myself.
Hey Guys (and Ladies), Here's a quick question - the headlights on my 06 Liberty stay on after I leave the vehicle for 60 seconds. I would rather they go off more quickly than that, say 30 seconds. I know other features are programmable, as I turned off that annoying horn chirp when locking the doors. Anyone know how to reprogram the headlights on interval? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave
If you turn them off before you shut off the engine they will stay off. If you forget and shut off the engine first then turn them off- then on -then off---they stay off.
93flhtcu: It just might be that the interior lite switch on the turn signal stalk is in the stay on position. It happened to our daughter's Jeep Liberty.
Push the interior light (built in switch) in the back (by rear glass) four or five times quickly. Fixed my problem. As Farout stated, the Tech may have left it in the ON position, try one click first.
My wife and I have a 2002 Liberty and have noticed that the dash lights flash when the lights are on sporadically. Can any one answer this. The local Jeep Dealer is useless.
I have a 2002 Liberty - one of the first off the line. This weekend, I think I blew a fuse for the interior electrical. The radio/clock, lights, locks, and alarm do not work. I was driving when it happened, and it scared the heck out of me. Has this happened to anyone else? Thanks.
Have you gotten help with this? My sister's 2002 Liberty's lights momentarily flash off when she is driving with the lights on. It is instantaneous, but very dangerous and disturbing. We wondered if the problem was similar. The dealership has been unable to recreate the situation.
We just had our 2004 Jeep Liberty in to get the power steering pump and P/S hih pressue line replaced; when we got it back from dealer, the horn wasn't working? Any chance it was inadvertantly disconnected or forgotten when making repairs?
I bought my '02 Liberty Limited several months ago and have always been confused about the shifting console... Is there supposed to be a light in it, you know, so when its dark I can actually see the "R,N,D,1,2"? It has never lit up and my husband and I just think that seems unusual. Anyone? :confuse:
I have a 2003 Liberty. The right blinker is blinking very slowly (about once every 3 seconds). I checked all the bulb contacts for corrosion but they all look good. According to the manual, a slow blinker indicates a low voltage, therefore something must be restricting the current. Anyone have any ideas?
You could perhaps try this in the dark: -Check that all bulbs glow evenly and individually. -Ask someone to apply the brakes and repeat the inspection.
When two adjacent bulbs (or filaments) glow partially, one of them has lost it's ground connection. When an individual bulb/filament (blinker) is slow or stops blinking, it's not pulling enough current usually because of a defective or over heated (melted) contact.
Hi, We also have a 2002 Liberty with the same problem. It's been doing it for two years. The dealer 'thinks' of things that might fix it but I'm not about to let them replace/charge me for something that they are not sure will fix it. I figure my best solution to date has been to wait until it's a continuous versus intermittent problem. Keep us updated.
I have a 2002 Liberty and the lower right side of my cluster is more dim than the rest of my cluster (Temp guage, Speedometer needle, from about 100mph to 120mph on speedometer). I'm trying to figure out what's wrong. I've been told anything from a blown fuse to a blown bulb to a bad cluster. Has anyone else had this problem and how did you fix it?
Thanks for the help fixed my 2004 liberty fan this weekend. Just wanted to pass on a couple of tips to the next guy. First unscrew the resistor then pull it out and flip it over. There is just enough slack in the wire harness to do this. Now the red clip is visible and you can use a flat putty knife blade to push it out and then remove the wire harness. Second I had a tough time getting the lower resistor screew out with a nut driver, I found it helpfull to remove the plastic cover below the glove box. Two philips screws and it pops right out giving you access to the botom resistor screw. Then I used a small socket wrench to get the lower resistor screw out from under the dash. Thsi was an easy fix. Part cost about ($25 US) and took about 30 to 45 min.
Please help. All I'm trying to do is replace a bulb in the tail light of my 2004 Jeep Liberty. I've unscrewed the two screws, but can't seem to wedge the one-piece light case from the jeep. I thought this would be a breeze. We are expecting snow tomorrow night and I would like to take care of this tiny problem before I get stopped and issued a ticket. Any suggestions. :confuse:
I just realized I posted a message in the wrong spot. I'll start again: Please help. All I'm trying to do is replace a bulb in the tail light of my 2004 Jeep Liberty. I've unscrewed the two screws, but can't seem to wedge the one-piece light case from the jeep. I thought this would be a breeze. We are expecting snow tomorrow night and I would like to take care of this tiny problem before I get stopped and issued a ticket. Any suggestions.
Note - I am NOT an owner but a garage owner in Cairo Egypt which makes it even more difficult to trouble shoot some of these problems.
2005 Jeep Liberty with less than 5,000 miles which has been through the issues - faulty water pump - replaced. faulty A/C compressor - replaced and then the speedometer quitting completely. Put it on OBD II and indicated speedometer sensor - replaced one sensor - still the same problem and was considering ordering the second sensor from the States to see if this would solve the problem when the owner came up with a new problem.
Driving after about 1/2 hour - transmission "lurched" slightly then all electrics died and car died. After a few minutes - car would start up again and be good for another 5 minutes of driving - then same problem again.
Got cat to my garage and just let is sit running. After a period of time - while watching - speedometer would jerk up to 10, 20 30 MPH - then back to 0. Again this would happen until finally car would stop - no electics. After starting (no problem) same thing happened after 5 minutes.
OBD only indicates P0501 - speed sensor fault.
Suggestions please - and please don't say take to the dealer as they are non-existant and worthless here.
You are describing an intermittent fault that can have several origins.
Try bending and stretching all cables (related to engine management) in the engine compartment and around the steering column after re-inserting all connectors into their sockets. If it's a cabling issue you have a chance to detect it this way. Don't forget the speed sensor (rear differential)and the battery lugs. The ECU does not always keep "ON" the "field connection" of the alternator! This can act as a mask during your investigation.
After doing this if there is no improvement you may have to look for broken solder joints under the ECU and speedometer connectors. Good luck
Since the beginning of winter (of course ) the bottom (floor) vent doesn't work anymore. The ventilation work perfectly (position 1 to 4) and I get plenty of air. The problem is that if I put the selector on bottom position (or bottom and front) the air will get out only through the defrost vent (or defrost and front) but nothing at the bottom...which is kind of cold here with -25C.
Any idea if there is a fuse somewhere that control that or else?
Hi Guy, The flaps of the ventilation system are moved by a "vacuum logic" system. There could be something stuck in the ventilation housing or you could have a pinched tube somewhere.
The heater control panel of the console carries this rotary 'vacuum / vent' distributor where 6 tubes are connected. The blowing of air towards the floor is accomplished by the second and third tubes coming from the bottom of the control. These tubes are color coded BLUE and YELLOW.
For info: The GREEN tube is used for the recirculation flap, The BLACK tube for vacuum connection, The BROWN for 'Panel-Door' full, The BLUE for 'Floor / Defrost Floor', The YELLOW for 'Floor / Defrost Floor' mid position, The RED for 'Panel-Door' mid.
Do you know any way to access easily that part of the console? I would like to spend some time this week-end to look into this problem but I fear that accessing that (behing the console) will be a nightmare...
I've not done this, but read in the repair manual that you have a Phillips head screw in the recess of the console where you can leave sunglasses. Then the cover plate (decor) comes off and you access the heater control from the front. There are again 4 screws in the corners that allow you to pull towards the cabin this element. You will know more by monday next week :shades:
I have a 2003 Jeep Libery Limited and I just bought the module for the daytime running lights to place in the fuse box. Does anyone know if I need a special relay for this or new headlights to go with this module? I have looked at a lot of wb sites and I can't figure this one out. If anyone has ever tried to replace this, can you let me know about the headlights? Thank! Angie
Our Jeep Liberty just had this same problem. A fuse blew and now the interior lights and radio do not work. Any replacement fuses blow immediately. Did you find out what was caused the fuse to blow?
Hi everyone.I just purchased a 04 limited liberty.I cant get power at the front power outlet/cigar lighter.I checked the fuses and they are ok.I asked the guy I bought it from and he said they used it alot and it worked fine.Any ideas ??Am I missing something ? I tried key on and off.The manual says it should be hot all the time but there isnt any power there.I did check the outlet and fuses with a meter.I dont want to start tearing the dash apart till I am sure I have to. Thanks
There are several types of connectors that have a step (obstacle) just behind the central "hot wire". There are also power outlets providing a peripheral contact to the cigar lighter by a set of spring fingers. I would try a cigar lighter first by keeping it pressed. These fingers could be squashed 'open'.
I see where this question had been asked before in Feb 2007, but I did not see any answer. I have a 2002 Jeep Liberty with a bad Tailight Bulb. I can not get the one piece Exterior Tailight Lens off the Vehicle. If you remove the two screws on the Left side, the Lens will not unhinge from the Right Side. Is there a Secret to get to the Bulb? One would think that replacing a Bulb shouldn't call for a Trip to the Dealer. Appreciate any Advice.
The plastic cover slides out in the perpendicular plane of the screws. On mine, all 4 bulbs are the same, so you can "loose" a backup or fog light to "recover" a stop or blinker light.
My 2002 Liberty Sport has started losing power to the gauges and all the dash board lights then quickly turning back on, all while I'm driving. This will happen many times while I drive my 30 mile commute home. While I'm driving suddenly all of the dash lights, the a/c control lights, and the shifter lights will turn off (also the gauges will turn off with the needles falling down)and then flick back on. Basically, the dash board is acting as if I turned the car off(lights off, gauges off) and then back on with all of the indicator lights(the oil light, seat belt light, brake light, etc.) turning on and then turn off one by one. All this is happening while I'm driving. Also, whatever is going on is effecting my tripometer and odometer. When the dashboard flicks off then back on the tripometer starts over at 3.5 miles and my odometer doesn't gain any miles. Any thoughts or suggestions what it might be?
Comments
This is a 4 position switch that only the fourth position works on. Does anyone know if this sounds like a switch, or is it something more complicated? If it is a switch, I can probably change it, if not probably a trip to the dreaded dealer. Thanks
I remember working on my old '88 Chevy Beretta for a dashboard light problem and was interested to see the back of the blower fan control switch had different-sized resistors across the contacts on the back of the switch. Is it possible that's where the blower fan control resistors are located?
I sure wish I could remember where I read that about a resistor controlling positions 1-3 and 4 was not in series with the resistor. You might do a search in the Wrangler board or the Liberty board...I was pretty sure someone had the answer to what you were looking for.
It would have to be either a fuse (fuses?), a broken connection or bad plug.
tidester, host
Thanks,
Dave
Farout
Push the interior light (built in switch) in the back (by rear glass) four or five times quickly. Fixed my problem. As Farout stated, the Tech may have left it in the ON position, try one click first.
Matt
-Check that all bulbs glow evenly and individually.
-Ask someone to apply the brakes and repeat the inspection.
When two adjacent bulbs (or filaments) glow partially, one of them has lost it's ground connection. When an individual bulb/filament (blinker) is slow or stops blinking, it's not pulling enough current usually because of a defective or over heated (melted) contact.
We also have a 2002 Liberty with the same problem. It's been doing it for two years. The dealer 'thinks' of things that might fix it but I'm not about to let them replace/charge me for something that they are not sure will fix it. I figure my best solution to date has been to wait until it's a continuous versus intermittent problem. Keep us updated.
2005 Jeep Liberty with less than 5,000 miles which has been through the issues - faulty water pump - replaced. faulty A/C compressor - replaced and then the speedometer quitting completely. Put it on OBD II and indicated speedometer sensor - replaced one sensor - still the same problem and was considering ordering the second sensor from the States to see if this would solve the problem when the owner came up with a new problem.
Driving after about 1/2 hour - transmission "lurched" slightly then all electrics died and car died. After a few minutes - car would start up again and be good for another 5 minutes of driving - then same problem again.
Got cat to my garage and just let is sit running. After a period of time - while watching - speedometer would jerk up to 10, 20 30 MPH - then back to 0. Again this would happen until finally car would stop - no electics. After starting (no problem) same thing happened after 5 minutes.
OBD only indicates P0501 - speed sensor fault.
Suggestions please - and please don't say take to the dealer as they are non-existant and worthless here.
Try bending and stretching all cables (related to engine management) in the engine compartment and around the steering column after re-inserting all connectors into their sockets. If it's a cabling issue you have a chance to detect it this way. Don't forget the speed sensor (rear differential)and the battery lugs. The ECU does not always keep "ON" the "field connection" of the alternator! This can act as a mask during your investigation.
After doing this if there is no improvement you may have to look for broken solder joints under the ECU and speedometer connectors. Good luck
Any idea if there is a fuse somewhere that control that or else?
Thanks
Guy
The flaps of the ventilation system are moved by a "vacuum logic" system. There could be something stuck in the ventilation housing or you could have a pinched tube somewhere.
The heater control panel of the console carries this rotary 'vacuum / vent' distributor where 6 tubes are connected. The blowing of air towards the floor is accomplished by the second and third tubes coming from the bottom of the control. These tubes are color coded BLUE and YELLOW.
For info:
The GREEN tube is used for the recirculation flap,
The BLACK tube for vacuum connection,
The BROWN for 'Panel-Door' full,
The BLUE for 'Floor / Defrost Floor',
The YELLOW for 'Floor / Defrost Floor' mid position,
The RED for 'Panel-Door' mid.
Do you know any way to access easily that part of the console? I would like to spend some time this week-end to look into this problem but I fear that accessing that (behing the console) will be a nightmare...
Guy
Thanks
Appreciate any Advice.
While I'm driving suddenly all of the dash lights, the a/c control lights, and the shifter lights will turn off (also the gauges will turn off with the needles falling down)and then flick back on. Basically, the dash board is acting as if I turned the car off(lights off, gauges off) and then back on with all of the indicator lights(the oil light, seat belt light, brake light, etc.) turning on and then turn off one by one. All this is happening while I'm driving.
Also, whatever is going on is effecting my tripometer and odometer. When the dashboard flicks off then back on the tripometer starts over at 3.5 miles and my odometer doesn't gain any miles.
Any thoughts or suggestions what it might be?