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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Engine Problems



  • Yeah it is 436045744. Verify please.
  • Is this cam shaft actuator fix these dealerships have been doing to peoples vehicles a big coverup for something GM is trying to hide. Would a cam shaft actuator make an engine run good for a while if it was another problem all together. Somebody please investigate this. I am tired of replacing cam shaft actuators. Maybe GM needs to buyback all these vehicle lemons.
  • That is all bullcrap about not changing your oil enough. My story is exactly like yours. I got the letter and they said my truck did not have that problem, but the camshaft actuator needed to be replaced. I change my oil every 2 weeks. I have a delivery service. Your truck will do this again. I tell you, GM is covering something up with these cam shaft actuators. It's a quick fix to a more serious, costlier problem that they don't want to foot the bill on. That actuator hides the problem for awhile. I now have 186,000 on my 06 GMC Canyon and it is doing the same thing. It started about 7 months after the first cam shaft actuator. I refuse to put anymore money into this truck until GM fesses up to this. I WANT RESULTS. NOW :shades:
  • I completely gave up with my Chevy dealer service. I changed my 2008 Colorado 3.7 motor oil to Castrol Synthetic 5-30 and an OE Delco filter. The tapping noise after cold start is currently gone. Synthetic is a superior lubricant.

    I will keep all informed on the status.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    I apologize for your experience. If you would like to e-mail me your VIN I would be happy to look into recall information for you.
    GM Customer Service
  • If so, I’m screwed!
    I bought a used 2005 Colorado Z-71 I-5 in July 2009 with 29,000 miles. It came with the CUV warranty 12/12k miles. I noticed a rough idle earlier this year and asked the dealer to diagnose while it was in for an unrelated service. They offered me a fuel injector cleaning service which I declined in lieu of some fuel injector cleaner. I’m out of warranty at this point, and the truck runs terrible. The idle fluctuates erratically to the point that the lights dim a stop lights and check engine light is on almost constantly.
    What should I do?
  • ridinbaselineridinbaseline Posts: 4
    edited December 2010
    Hey Man, you should clean your mass air flow sensor and clean the Throttle Body...Seriously, my truck was idling rough with the rpms jumping and it stalled a few times while stopping...mass air flow sensor cleaner at autozone and take the throttle body off and clean it well with throttle body cleaner!
    If that doesn't do it...change the fuel filter...then maybe O2 sensor...but hopefully the MAFS and TB cleaning do the trick
  • I think you have a bad connection to the blower motor and I think it is behind the glove box...I'm having the same problem right now, but I am yet to fix it...soon truck was idling rough for a while and I cleaned the throttle body and Mass air flow sensor and it pepped up in a major way...currently I am having another kind of idle issue...but you should definitely clean those items!
  • My I suggest Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I have found it helps.
  • Agreed. My Question to you is when you fire it up in a cold start and wait, does it take awhile for your oil to read correctly on the dip stick? I changed my oil and ran it for sometime, it took quite a long time for it to read correctly. I run lucas stabilizer to help.
  • Does anyone notice a "tick" when they run the blower on 1 or 2 for heat or air or vent? It is coming from my passenger side on the floor. I have an 08 Colorado in line 5. Any thoughts would be great.

    Also anyone have issues with oil changes taking a long time to even be seen on the dipstick? I can run my truck for 10 minutes and it won't show full after an oil change.
  • Hi Mowgrass,
    Yes, it takes a while for all new added oil to drain down to fill the pan in the 3.7 litre. I would not put any additives in. It is the oil that counts, so buy the best you can. On an oil change, you know how much you added for the total amount, so no concern. I also add to the filter before installing it up, so the pump is primed.

    I use synthetic in small engines, lawn tractor, etc. too. Thanks!
  • Are you attempting to say that you check your oil level with the engine running????
  • No I am not. I just was saying when I changed it and let it run that after i allowed it to run for sometime I went back and checked it a few times and it took quite awhile for the it to show up on the dipstick.
  • I have an 04 Colorado that I bought brand new. It has made that ticking noise as long as I can remember. Mine only does it on blower speed 1.

    I have no ideas about what is causing this.
  • Ok thats the same with my truck only at 1 and possibly 2. I crank it to 4 and sometimes it stops.
  • Can anyone please tell me the location of the O2 sensor for a 2004 Colorado? My engine light came on and a local mechanic tells me that it's the O2 sensor. I would like to buy one and replace it myself, but don't know where to look on the truck. Is there more than one O2 sensor?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    How did your mechanic determine that the 02 sensor was at fault? If it was just from reading a trouble code, you may be throwing money away here, since the scanner does not tell us which component is bad, only which system or circuit is reacting in a deficient manner. Many an 02 sensor that is perfectly fine ends up in the trash bin these days, along with frustrated owners. The only way to know if an o2 sensor is bad is to test it individually for proper voltage values. A 02 code could actually be about many other things not related to a bad 02 sensor.

    If he tested it properly for you by getting under the car and applying a meter to the sensor, then okay.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Thank you for the response and no he didn't get under the truck. I believe it was just a code from an engine light reading. I would hate to throw money away and have the light still on. Is there any visual way to inspect an O2 sensor without damaging it?

    Thanks again!
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,251
    Can you please email me your complete contact info including a good number to reach you, VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and your Edmunds username (or a link to this page). I look forward to your response.
    GM Customer Service
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    You mean by looking at it? No, I don't think so. You have to test it with a volt meter. I mean, it might be a good *guess*, just from reading the code, but chances are even up that won't cure your problem.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • ridinbaselineridinbaseline Posts: 4
    edited December 2010
    I own an 05 2.8L manual with 102,200 miles which could have been part of the valve seat recall. First I will say that I have enjoyed the truck...and still do? I like the looks of these Colorados and the truck ran pretty strong for a while, but now I am having an issue which I really hope is not that valve seat problem...I have burned out somewhere in the neighborhood of 8 taillights, headlights, or brake lights. Once the truck shook violently and stalled while the traction control engaged while driving in snow...took it to the dealer and they said everything was fine. The front end on my truck shakes like an SOB while I'm driving between 50 and 70. I put H3 rims with 265/70/16s on it so I initially attributed it to the tires but I think they may have just accentuated the problem with the front end. I have had a ton of codes pop up since I have owned it and I have had the codes pulled at Autozone each time, and tried to diagnose the problem with their info...Once they recommended I buy a new gas cap because there was a pressure problem, etc. Also I was once told to change the cam position sensor...did that and nothing I did a tune up...changed the plugs, front o2 sensor, air filter, fuel filter, differential fluid, etc. that helped but at about 90,000 miles the truck was idling terribly and started stalling on me when I slowed down or came to a sudden stop...did that about 6 or 7 times while I was out of town one I researched and found that cleaning the mass air flow sensor and throttle body might help did it ever! Cleaning those components pepped up the truck in a big way...I was pretty pleased with how strong it was pulling so I figured no way I was gonna be one of those valve seat trucks...Well around 98K my clutch pedal starts feeling weird as if the hydraulics in the pedal are trashed...but it still worked ok...bled the clutch line and well it may have helped some maybe...still having that problem...then about a week and a half ago during a cold spell, I start her up and the damn thing is idling like a diesel and I'm hearing clicking up front...well I was hoping this was something with the water pump, power steering pump, pulleys or something, but It has gotten worse and it hasn't thrown any codes in about 12k. And on top of this, my blower will now only work on I have a wiring or connection problem. I've been looking into these problems and I think the best case scenario for my engine noise is gonna be a timing chain tensioner, which I may be able to handle or afford. I would like to fix this truck up a little bit and try to put a ton of miles on it but wow at 100K like clockwork the damn thing is trying to clean my wallet! I'm not bitter because the truck was cheap and every vehicle is going to have problems, but damn the head issue and well if I end up getting the motor squared away and put new tires on it with an alignment, it better straighten up! Going to talk to my mechanic friend on Friday for him to hear it...After that, maybe I'm gonna swing by the dealership to see if they can help with being financial in discounted fix? Also added to the list of rear window leaks pretty bad when it rains...I think it screwed up my amp and speakers...
  • Talked to my mechanic, going to be looking at the timing chain and tensioner and the lifters...planning on a DIY...starting 2011 with a nice little project...happy new year...looking forward to redlining this thing a few times after I get it last comment before the project starts...thinking about many posts I've seen bashing the truck and GM...there is always that thing about buying American...and being able to find parts...I believe this is going to hold true...
  • ridinbaseline,

    I had engine ticking on my 05 Colorado, as well as many of the other problems you mention. Head and valves were replaced under GM special warranty. Dealer advised me that the ticking noise was caused by a cracked manifold, which GM would not cover under the special warranty. The ticking is gone, but I poured $500+ more into my black hole.

    As far as buying American and accepting that all vehicles have some problems...JD Powers ranked the Colorado (#2) and Canyon (#?) among the top 7 worst vehicles made in 2010 so it's reasonable to assume there's more than a handful of Colorado problems. My mileage is still under 100K, and the defects I've experienced are unacceptable and too long to list. At least other unsuspecting GM loyalists won't have to worry about buying a Colorado, as I heard GM is bailing on this truck. Apparently, I've been a loyal GM customer for too long and it's time to consider bailing on blind loyalty.

    Good luck.
  • Problem is fixed....thanks for the responses. I installed a new front O2 sensor and took off my throttle body and totally cleaned it with throttle body cleaner. I also took out my MAF sensor and cleaned it with MAF sensor spray. The engine light went off and the truck is running like it is brand new again. It's very responsive when touching the gas. I highly recommend doing this simple 1 hour maintenance tip to anyone with a sluggish Colorado.

    Happy New Year everyone!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    Good for you. Well, everything you did is related to the code you got---it might have been fun to do them one at a time, to isolate which one it actually was---but sometimes experiments are a luxury.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I just got on the highway and when i got to 55mph it stopped accelerating and the RPMs went through the roof while a whining sound came about. I took my foot off the gas and RPMs went down but i could no longer accelerate. The sound is still present even after re starting the truck as well as not moving. When shifting from park to drive you can feel them engage like normal but still no driving even when switching to 4WD. I've had some friends look and ask their friends and i've heard everything from torque converter, transmission pump, transmission shaft, linkage, to computer. Mileage is just over 110k and keep regular maintenance. I'm hoping it doesn't have to do with the existing minor electrical problem i've been seeing. Things like half the stereo lights are on but thats been present since i bought it, left blinker is out but blinks when i engage, I bought it used at around 82K. Thats about it, if you have any questions dont hesitate to ask. Im getting ready to bring it to a shop to actually have a mechanic take it apart and look next week. Any ideas or experience with this? If so what the hell should i do. Thanks.
  • I just thought I'd try a forum to see if anyone else is having the same difficulties I ma with my 07 Canyon. It's a 4 cylinder with a manual transmission. Ever since it was new, and I have reported to the dealer at almost every oil change, occasionally when in neutral the engine will race or pant. It will rev to 1500 rpm, then drop down to 450-500 then rev back up and drop back down. Typically this will happen while the the truck is running, only twice has it actually stalled while doing this.
    Dealer says ther are no notices on this and the software is the latest version.

    Anyone else have experience with this issue?

  • Mine has done that before. The dealership can never seem to fix it. :lemon:
  • You have to change the pigtail under your glove compartment.
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