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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Engine Problems



  • I bought this 06 colorado 4 cyl. with around 70000 miles on it, it ran fine at that time. About a year and a half later with only 77000 miles on it, I was driving home from work it just died on me. I brought it to the shop, they ended up replacing the ignition cylinder and two coil packs. It ran fine for a few months and then the check engine light came in with the same symtoms (it would start, idle really rough and then die. Try and start it again and it would crank and crank and sound terrible but not start). Checked the spark and another coil pack went bad. Replaced that, then it ran ok. A week later, it did the same thing except this time I went to turn it over again and all the dash lights came in but it wouldn't even turn over. After some investigation I found it burned up another coil pack and blew the ignition fuse. Replaced those parts and low and behold a week later it happened again. Frustrated I finally brought it to the Chevrolet dealership to get a diagnostic done on it. It came back that the #1 and 3 coils where not firing. I replaced those, started it up went to back up and it died again. Tried to restart it, just to find out I blew the ignition fuse again. Does anyone know what could be causing all this mayham??? Could it be the cylinder head like I've been reading about in this forum??

    Thank you for any help,

  • We can set up a Customer Assistance Case and follow up with your dealership for you on this, if you like. These are evaluated on a case-by-case basis with the goal of resolving vehicle concerns. If you would like to get a case started, please email us more information (include your name and contact information, your involved dealership and an account of your visits there for these concerns (if applicable), and the last 8 digits of your VIN and current mileage).

    GM Customer Service
  • Hi Sarah,

    I have a 2006 Hummer H3 (25k miles) with the same L5 3.5 engine as the Colorado / Canyon and the cylinder misfire problem. My GM dealer is running a leak down test tomorrow. I sent a separate email to you with my VIN. I hope you can help us! Thanks in advance.
  • I have a colorado 2006 and i had just a lot of problems
    Almost all Seals always leaking
    4x4 modulator went out because of failure of the ingeniering of the water drain in the windshield
    leaf springs broke with a small atv in it
    drive shaft broke and transfer case had been changed
    emergency brake had been replaced three times
    check engine always on (misfire code and something about the gas cap)
    I'm in Canada and i also have problems with the brakes in the winter
    This morning its running on three cylinder and don't ask me why
    cause my answer will be is not a good truck at all. Maybe if you use it as a car and your eighty years old and you live in california Maybe. I wish they fired the ingeneers that build this truck. It would make me fell better to know that.
    N.B These are not all the troubles i had with that truck

    thanks Lewis
  • omaitaomaita Posts: 16
    1. I use to have a Colorado 2006, crew cab, LT, 4x4. "A lot of problems" is not right, the truck itself it was a problem.

    2. Gaskets, Seals, Brake Sensors, Ignitor, ABS Fault issues, and the last one for me "A broken transmission".

    3. Chevy dealers are good only on Sales Department, Service just sucks, seems to be that they don't know what's going on, or just try to extend the time you have with the problem ultil the warranty expires.

    4. Original brakes last only 4,000 miles. And any noise close to your wheels Service Dept. just said are the brakes.

    5. I didn't use the "truck" to work, just to get my daughter's bike and eventually carry a new furniture from IKEA. Only 42K miles on it.

    6. Maybe they should buy the parts from Japan and send them to Canada or Mexico to put them together.

    What was the solution: I SOLD THE CAR AND I JUST GET A HONDA RIDGELINE, for my needs it's perfect. :shades:
  • Good morning, Lewis,

    I am sorry that your Colorado has not been satisfactory vehicle for you, and understand how inconvenient it can be to have made multiple repairs. From reading your post, it seems that your current concerns are with leaking seals, the 4x4 modulator, leaf springs, an illuminated check engine light, and brake concerns. It may be worthwhile to get into contact with GM of Canada, who can be reached at 800-263-3777. I would offer to assist myself, but as I am based in the United States, I'm limited to assisting U.S. drivers.

    All the best,
    GM Customer Service
  • I have a 06 GMC cayon, luv this truck about 68000 mi on it and lot left to go, but about 10 times now, I bought used 1 year ago. I go to start and you hear fuel pump kick in but nothing all that happens is starter runs if you wait 15-30 min. try again kicks right over. I just droped off at dealer but I know I will hear famous words "We can not find anything wrong" I cannot call when broke down it will start by the time they get there. I was told that it is in the security system thats why it will not fire. makes sence to me because you hear fuel rush up but no fire- wait up to half hour try again starts first hit. Please help Gm
  • Please keep us posted on the progress of the diagnosis at the dealership. We're available for follow up if you would like!

    GM Customer Service
  • coloradobrakescoloradobrakes Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    Took my 2005 Chevy Colorado in for a 50,000 mile oil change. Car has 52,332 miles. Ended up with a $2146.58 repair bill. They said front brakes had corrison and broke? Asked for a detailed bill and the bill is all in codes. Here is an example of the
    ; Replace Ft Pads and Rotors
    M Replaced ft pads and rotors and rh ft sensor
    (broken upon removal)
    2875 CTC5 $571.20
    2 19288572 PAD KIT $85.90 56.66 113.98
    2 19241830 ROTOR $64.99 64.99 129.98
    1 15176998 SENSOR $107.14 107.14 107..14

    Thats just an example, the bill has many more weird things and services including to replace fuel cap0 and the vent valve $179.20 for ctc5, $33 for cap, another $232.88 for f-valve.
    p0449, p0445 scan code. They said they discovered vent valve shorted and gas cap leaking?
    In total they hit me up for $1160.68 in labor charges, another $836.14 for parts. for a please pay total amount of $2146.58. This just seems out of control. Can anyone please just give me an idea if any of this sounds accurate or if I got taken hard. The car went into the shop at 1pm thursday and they said they finished it and let me pick it up at 5:00pm friday. So car was only in shop for a total of 28 hours. PLace is only open til 5pm. So they were not working on the car for 28 hours straight. How do they come up with $1160 for labor? Any help or input in the matter would be greatly apprieciated. Thank you
  • I usually get kissed when I get screwed like that! A little dinner maybe some wine, cheap talk, You know I like to play hard to get first! BaHahaha!!! Yah bud all of us who bought a Colorado got really screwed! Thats why I just all out gave up on it and sold it while it was still worth something! I am so pissed at GM for the first time in my life I buy a truck for almost 30k and it was nothing but problems! My advise to you is to get that thing running right and walk away as fast as you can!
  • msz40msz40 Posts: 1

    My dad bought his 2004 colorado 3.5 4x4 new from Valley Chevrolet in Wilkes-barre, PA. He has been having a misfire issue, also throwing codes. He had it to the dealer but it did not throw a code for them. It idled rough but said since no code was thrown, they could not diagnose. Truck had approx 60K on it. Now it has just over 80k and he had it to local garage. They swapped coil and problem stayed with cyl 2 i believe. The plugs were changed and several tanks of fuel were through it. He doesn't have the recepit from his vist to the dealer, but does the dealer have to honor warranty since it was in there previously for same issue?

    We just saw all the issues others are having concerning the exhaust valves and seals.


    Mike Szewczyk on behalf of Joe Szewczyk
  • Good morning, Mike,
    This is a very good and fair question. For the 2004 model year, Chevrolet vehicles had the Bumper to Bumper Limited Warranty for the first 3 years or 36,000 miles that the vehicle was in service. The Powertrain Limited Warranty wasn't applied to Chevrolets (and other brands) until model year 2007. As the vehicle was out of warranty on mileage at the initial visit, and presumably time, a warranty repair isn't likely. I know this isn't necessarily the answer you were hoping to hear, and I apologize.

    However, if work were to be performed at one of our dealerships, or if parts were to be purchased from us for repair elsewhere, there are warranties that would come into effect. If you would like more information on that, please let me know!

    All the best,
    GM Customer Service
  • I Have a 2005 GMC Canyon, Love the truck over all however I Have a Reduce power fault and a Traction control fault light coming on. I am told it is my PCM, I was also told that Part is covered under warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles is that correct?

    Thank you in advance
  • Good morning Pam,
    The Federal Emission Performance Warranty on a 2005 GMC is contingent upon whether or not an EPA-approved inspection and maintenance inspection is enforced in your area. We would be happy to check into the coverage on your vehicle (sometimes can depend upon where the vehicle was originally sold) if you were to send us an email with the last 8 digits of your VIN.

    GM Customer Service
  • Hello Sarah,
    Had similair issues. Traced it to the throttle body. What I learned is the Colorado intake system is very sensitive to any kind of debris build up in the throttle body. Now I just repace the throttle body every 50K miles and it seems to take care of that and other issues. Part is about $280. Make sure to buy a new "o" ring gasket for it.
  • This is great information, john04colorado, and I'm glad that you found a solution for your vehicle! Thanks for the post - hopefully it's useful to other members of the community.
    GM Customer Service
  • I am new to the forums. My canyon started this saturday afternoon. Let it cool down drive a quarter mile and the same thing happens. Each time I cleared the code using OBDII and let it set. Eventually the canyon returned home powered by a flatbed with $190. The dealerships can't connect to the recall database provided by GM until 13 Feb. With two people who work and only one GMC running, I need help and/or advice.
  • I seem to be having the same issue with my '04 Canyon (2.8 4 cyl) as I am coming up on 85,000 miles. Some mornings it won't start, just starter grinds and grinds; I give up and take the other car. This morning truck did start, at lunch time did start to let me leave parking garage, 15 min later would NOT start after I had picked up lunch. Called AAA for tow, tried one last time 5 min after non-start and it DID fire up this time, took to dealership anyway. I had never got any amber check engine lights/codes.

    They could not replicate problem, fuel pump pressure was good, fuel filter dirty enough to warrant changing. In all their fiddlin with it they got one code once (did they say crank sensor?). They took off an intake hose and shined light in to TBI and showed me carbon build-up at top, and while not claiming that was the root of problem, are recommending fuel injection system cleaning for a couple hundred bucks and I will probably authorize that. Someone online here mentioned AC connection to all this ... I do believe mine was off the first two times today when it stared, and that I had turned it on at mid-day before it did not start. This is where I am at this point.
  • I'm new to this forum. My wife and I am retired so we don't have money to throw away. I went to a Chevy dealer to get an estimate for repairs on my 2006 Chevy Colorado 32,426 miles. I told them my check engine light was on. I also had it read at an auto parts store the Error codes were P0785 and P2610. They told me that I would have to pay $96.50 to have it checked out and had no idea what the problems were. It doesn't seem fair that since the truck has a module on it to tell what the problem is that I would have to spend $96.50 to get an estimate when the trouble codes are there. Seems like a rip-off to me just to get an estimate.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,858
    Well I understand how annoying this is, but in fact the trouble codes don't tell you which part is defective. No car computer can do that (yet). The trouble codes only tell us which system or circuit is in distress. So if say your trouble code was related to an 02 sensor, this doesn't mean the 02 sensor is just means something is making the 02 sensor read outside its normal range. Could be the 02 sensor, could be a bad fuel injector, could be a bad catalytic converter, could be a bad ignition coil.

    So while I do agree with you that they shouldn't charge you $100 bucks just to READ the code, if they are charging you $100 to diagnose the actual problem--such as testing the 02 sensor, etc) and isolate the actual defective component, then that's fair enough.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • Make sure that your gas cap fits tight.
  • I have not taken the truck to a dealer yet, San Diego County is outrageous with $108.00/hr for labor. I replaced the factory battery today; drove for 20 minutes straight with no check engine ligth or reduced power. I have not had any codes stored like the last time. Last code stored was P0606/ PCM. Has this fixed the reduced power? I dont have $1000 for a dealership to fix this.

    San Diego GM dealership:

    PCM: $410.00 , core $75.00
    Programming: $108.00
    Labor for R&R of PCM: 1.5 hrs at $108.00/hr
    and of course tax at 7.75%
  • We're glad to hear you found a fix for your vehicle! Hopefully this issue is cleared up for you for a while!
    If we can ever be of assistance, don't hesitate to get in touch via email.
    GM Customer Service
  • drvettedrvette Posts: 99
    edited February 2012
    As an old Wrench since the 60's I can tell you why the dealer charges for this. Many people for decades would get a "Free" estimate of repairs then fix it themselves.

    The "C" note they're charging is the 1-Hr[or whatever] minimum time.

    The code P0785 is pointing at a "Shift/Timing Solenoid Malfunction"
    The code PO2610 is One digit too many for the OBD-II system, you did a typo, or the dude gave you the wrong code
    The code PO261 says the "1 Cylinder I Injector Circuit Low"

    As said previously, WHY these codes are showing up is a matter for a trained technician, a GM Service Manual and a Quality Scan Machine.

    Several Non-Obvious issues many mechanics miss.

    1st -
    I coined "Invisible Corrosion" a condition where the connector male and female terminals ARE tight yet fail to conduct. Sometimes a Lacquer or Varnish like Clear coating will form, preventing flow of electricity.

    The previous condition is often caused by so called "clean-up-shops" spraying that clear junk all over the engine in an attempt to make it look new, inadvertently making a mess of the electrical system.

    Poor "Mechanical Joint" in the plug, some techs overlook this issue which is VERY prevalent on Fuel Pump wiring harnesses on most GM's

    Poor Grounding
    . Many electrical faults are due to faulty grounds.
    #1 - Rust or Corrosion from Battery Acid Vapors.
    I separate the 2 because Battery Vapors cause corrosion in some unusual places, not just under the battery.
    #2 - Paint under the lug, Even the factory will place grounds on painted areas, and especially Body Shops after wreck repair.
    #3- Poorly Crimped Lugs,
    GM introduced copper coated "Aluminum" battery cables with a 2-ear lug, instead of the "barrel lug" These were notorious for sounding like a bad battery or bad starter on very Hot days.
    Other lugs are crimped with NO grease, soon to corrode, thanks to all the Big-3 for these issues.

    Insulation breaks in the wires.
    The voltages in modern sensors go as low as 1.5 VDC,
    [ that is AFAIK per my newest GM Service Manual]
    A tiny crack or cut in the insulation can allow water intrusion, then Corrosion builds up on the wire, SIGHT UNSEEN.

    As a near 40yr Electrical Generation Employee, the rule of thumb is that electricity flows on the OUTSIDE of the wire, not the inside.

    I found this while working on a 91 Roadmaster S/W.
    The ATS sensor [Air Temp Sensor] showed bad. The car would suddenly lose power at Interstate Speeds, nearly die, then chuuggg along, barely running.

    I replaced the ATS, which in that 305 TBS system, is in the air cleaner.
    NO Good, same issue.
    Checked the wirings' mechanical fit, checked for the proper voltage and ground away from the plug, all Good ?? [Scratching Head]

    The issue was sporadic, which of course made it harder.

    A close inspection of the wires revealed that someone had closed the breather lid on one of them. At that point was a minute crack in the insulation.

    Peeling off the insulation showed GREEN corrosion. The wire was SOLID AND INTACT, the mere presence of corrosion caused this fault.

    I cut out 2" of the wire, used Heat Shrink and 5% Silver Solder and all was well.

    Once a car with 4-Headlights had all 4 beams Lit Up on Low beam yet very very Dim?

    Checked fuse with VOM Meter, Fuse showed Good.
    The final solution, in that time cars had round fuses, the fuse was cracked below the metal contact area.a tug on the fuse, and it fell apart!
    New fuse, all Good!
    [This situation is called "Back-Feed, something most guys who pull trailers with NO Ground wire find out quickly]

    All the previous drivel was my attempt to show how even the OBD-II vehicles and modern scan tools do not make wrenching Easy!

    Most Sincerely
    aka Rusty Wrench

    PS, here's a link to OBD-II Codes
    link title

    Checking the TSB's [Technical Service Bulletins] I see nothing there related to your current issue.
    link title

    Note, these TSB's are only partial and incomplete, you must purchase an Alldata or other subscription to view them in complete form.

    Also, not all vehicles will exhibit the symptoms listed.

    I did find One Recall which your vehicle should have gotten notice.

    Bulletin No: SB-09186

    Date of Bulletin: 02/25/2011
    Summary Description:


    Good Luck and take a $3 sack of Apples for bribery and be nice, it will help.
  • I recently picked up a 2006 Chevorlet Colorado work truck with only 28K miles on it. I should have researched the model more thoroughly but I was simply worn out trying to find a replacement for my trusty 140K mile 1995 Ford Ranger "long bed" five speed which was destroyed by a 19year old on her cell phone. When I test drove the truck I knew nothing about the console and somehow missed the fact that the "check engine" symbol was on. It was so quiet that I thought they lighted up a motor symbol to assure you the motor was running :={.

    Eventually, after changing fluids, etc. I pulled the code and it was P0017. My independent mechanic put the motor on his diagnostic stand and couldn't find anything wrong so we started replacing sensors. After replacing all three sensors (he paid for the third one himself) we were at a loss as to what was going on. The light would come on, stay on a few days, and then shut itself off, then come back on again.

    The radio in the truck had been replaced by the Previous Owner with an Alpine unit using the wrong mounting hardware so the panel in the cab stuck out slightly. Our next hypothesis was that the radio had been inavertently wired into the "data line" of the wiring harness which carries 12v instead of the correct terminal associated with the ignition lock, etc. since the radio operated completely independently of the key. Partly so I could play MP3s off my player in the truck, I replaced the radio, planning to get a report from the techs regarding the wiring of the old radio, but they got away from me and had it installed and working correctly before they even thought to note which line the old radio had been using. At any rate, replacing the radio gave me a working clock and now the radio shuts off and on with the key as expected, and I can listen to my audio books while driving around with the "P0017" check engine code still showing.

    By this time we had cleared the check engine light and code about 12 times!

    The other day I got out on the expressway, set the cruise at 70 and blew about 8-10 miles down the road to pick up some stuff. When I came out of the warehouse and started up the truck it was on. I stopped briefly at the foot of the driveway to make a phone call, and when I restarted the truck, it was off and so far, fingers crossed, it has not come back on.

    My latest hypothesis is that this particular truck was left "sitting out" for quite a while without being driven and possibly without an oil change in more than a year. A bit of sludge might have been interfering with the hydraulic variable valve timeing and setting off the code when I started the truck up cold. Note that I was only putting 5-6K miles a year on my trusty old Ranger so I don't run this truck every day and most of my driving is short hauls on surface streets. I don't know what function switches the check engine light back off, as I thought that once the code was set the light says on, but my own experiences say that isn't quite the whole story.

    When the light comes back on, what do I look for next? Do I need to try and "wash out the engine" the next time I change oil? Is there a known "glitch" in the on-board computer which makes it hyper-sensitive? I'm assuming that my motor is far enough down the line from the original 2004's that bad valve springs isn't the likely issue. :confuse:
  • diy71diy71 Posts: 1
    Which sensors have you changed? ..p0017 usually refers to camshaft crankshaft colleration sensors bank 1 which end up in check engine light illumination. If you haven't already I would change valve camshaft selonoid check your old one if it got all 3 screens on, second I will change the camshaft sensor which is right beside the camshaft selonoid ,and then will if that don't take care of it ,I will change the crankshaft sensor which is located beside the oil pan underneath the truck. Also make sure your temp gauge is reading normal , if it's not then change the thermostat.
  • njseznjsez Posts: 1
    My father's GMC Canyon was sitting in the drive way for some time now, he is on Hospice and cannot drive anymore. Well I tried to start the truck and it would not even take a jump. The engine light is on.
    Any ideas on what I can do? His resources are very limited.
    Thanks a bunch
  • omaitaomaita Posts: 16
    You're totally right !! That's what I did, just sold it and get something according with my needs, and I get a Honda Ridgeline. I know is not a "truck" but for the 4 times a year a need a truck it's very useful. Great ride, lots of space and the in bed truck is just great!!.
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