Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Engine Problems

12021222325

Comments

  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,321
    marksee said:

    Plugged in the old sol and now getting a P0014.

    OK that's good. By forcing a different code to set we are gaining insight to the failure. As you read the following keep in mind that I am going to reference serial data and especially the camshaft timing which is in degrees, positive value. While the data is stated as a positive value the camshaft actually retarding. So "0" is advanced and +20 is twenty degrees of retard. A P0014 means that the camshaft timing measured is at least 4 degrees off from the desired angle. It could of course it could be more.

    How long did the truck sit before you fired it up? The camshaft timing should not have been able to move so long as the lock pin in the actuator had engaged.

    Without data showing us the desired. actual and delta I don't have every detail that I need to pinpoint the issue but where we are right now has three plausible paths.

    The first one is the pin did engage and the actuator remained at the "0" position. If that is what happened the scan data likely showed the actual cam timing as 4 degrees or higher without any other movement and you have a stretched timing chain.

    The second one is the actuator never advanced back to the "0" position and could be stuck due to debris. Without PCM input via the solenoid the cam timing would retard to the maximum that it could be moved and scan data would have displayed something higher than 2 degrees at start-up and would have increased to something fifteen degrees or higher.

    The third possibility is wear in the cylinder head journal. When the journal wears it can allow lubrication oil to bleed into the actuator port and falsely command the camshaft to move. That's the toughest one of all to prove which is why it is last on the list.

    Can you get the scan data showing the cam timing from start-up?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,869
    Thanks for sharing that tip! What year is your truck?

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    The truck had been sitting overnight when I did the test with the dummy sol. It took 4-5 drive cycles to get the code 14 to set. My friend has a Genesis, would that give the scan data?
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,321
    It might. The cheaper level professional tools often have holes in the data ad it all depends on exactly what pids and controls they chose to leave out.
  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    I have an old lab oscilloscope with dual channels I could use to look at the offset between the crank and cam sensors if I knew what wires to hook to.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,321
    It can be done with a digital oscilloscope, but you are going to also need a known good waveform showing a 0 degrees reference capture to compare it to. The variance we are talking about will only be a few milliseconds at idle and in the microsecond range at higher speeds.

    I was thinking, you got the code to set after driving it four or five times with the dummy load in place. That means the cam didn't lock at "0" and if the chain was stretched badly it really should have coded on the second start-up. I believe you are looking at an actuator that has debris in it as the most likely cause, just remember that debris could be material worn from the camshaft journal in the head. Try to get the scan data.

    Camshaft Angle Desired
    Camshaft Angle Actual
    Variance or Delta
  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    OK. I'm just amazed there could be that much wear at barely 40k miles.
  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    Got my buddy's Genisys but it only goes up to 2006 and just gets a communication error when I try to get data on my 2008. So I plugged in the sol, cleared the codes and did 7 drive cycles and no codes yet. Not sure what to make of that. Guess I'll change to the Dexos 1 oil and see what happens.
  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    Changed to Dexos 1 oil and Fram Tough Guard filter The oil had less than 3k miles on it but did look rather dirty. Two more drive cycles and no codes yet. Removed the secondary air valve, disassembled and cleaned it with carb cleaner. Got lots of carbon out of there! Lubed with Areo-kroil. Only one intermittent code left from that. If the valve won't free up I'll get one from rockauto.com for $152. They also have the timing chain, balance chain, and all associated tensioners and guides for around $300. Means pulling the engine but once the hood is off it's not that hard. It's a bunch cheaper than a reman engine.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,321
    marksee said:

    Lubed with Areo-kroil. Only one intermittent code left from that. If the valve won't free up I'll get one from rockauto.com for $152.

    Just replace it. Trace exhaust gasses leaking past the valve will allow water vapor to condense in the hoses and AIR pump ruining it.
    marksee said:


    They also have the timing chain, balance chain, and all associated tensioners and guides for around $300. Means pulling the engine but once the hood is off it's not that hard. It's a bunch cheaper than a reman engine.

    And infinitely easier than trying to do a transplant.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,869
    Exactly. We weren't offering the idea of a reman to solve your current problem, but rather as an alternative to doing a transplant.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    I also have a lot of problems with the body control module. Is there a way to reprogram these? At night the dome light comes on when I pull the key out then goes out after about 20 seconds. Then there is no way to make it come back on. Some times it won't come on at all. Cargo light is the same way. Seems if you are within a block of a street light the cargo light won't come on. Is there a way to trick the module into thinking it's dark all the time so the dome light will always come on and stay on?
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,321
    There are manually programmable settings and a few that can be reset with an appropriate scan tool.
  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    Oh boy, my 17 is back. Guess the tape is going to stay over the CEL.
  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    What unit would I need to re-program the BCM? Would a BCM from a 2009 work?
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,321
    No. The "programming" like controlling interior light delay are user personality settings which should be described in the owners manual. Suffice it to say that not all cars are created equal and you may or may not find very many settings that you can alter.
    marksee said:

    Oh boy, my 17 is back. Guess the tape is going to stay over the CEL.

    Why don't you have the exhaust cam actuator replaced?
  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    Maybe some day but I don't feel like pulling the engine before winter.
  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    Thanks for all your help.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,321
    You don't have to pull the engine to replace the actuator, and you can inspect the chain tension and even confirm if it is stretching in the process.
  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    To get the chain/actuator off you have to pull the front cover. To get the front cover off you have to pull the oil pan. To pull the oil pan you have to drop the crossmember and the front axle (4wd). It's just easier to pull the engine from my research. Once the engine is out you can use the zip gun on it and things go quite quickly. Beats laying on your back struggling with every fastener. Besides, I would want to replace the balance shaft chain and tensioner at the same time and it's in the back requiring you to either pull the engine or pull the trans/transfer. Engine looks easier to me.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,321
    edited October 18
    The labor times tell a different story.

    The book quotes these times for the following operations.(RWD is rear wheel drive, 4WD is four wheel drive)

    Exhaust Camshaft
    6.1 hours 4.9 Hours Warranty

    Actuator
    5.8 hours 4.6 hours Warranty

    Timing chain and guides which includes removing the oil pan.
    17.3 hours 4WD 14.7 hours warranty
    13.7 hours RWD 11.6 warranty

    There are tools that hold the timing chain in place and tools to hold the camshafts in place that allow for the camshaft gears to be removed without disassembling the timing cover. There are even tools that once the camshaft gears are removed that can be installed will allow for removal of the cylinder head, without removing the front cover.

    This is the "old way" to do the actuator. Note they have cover removed for clarity in practice it is not necessary unless you lose the chain tensioner. https://gm.oemdtc.com/1764/removalinstallation-of-llv-llr-cylinder-head-2007-chevrolet-gmc-hummer

    The new way has hooks that engage the chain and wingnuts to hold the tension as seen in this tool kit.
    https://www.centurytool.net/6688_OTC_GM_I_V_5_6_Cam_Tool_Set_p/otc6688.htm

    Specifically J-44217
    http://www.freedomracing.com/timing-chain-retention-tool-set-j-44217.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw95vPBRDVARIsAKvPd3KKcpcw02jmOF3lJ6JkwJkEYgvbq2WZx0XbqlVo9CgAV0HlZi9tZPAaArgsEALw_wcB

    While the kit doesn't specify the 2.9I4 the chain tools are the same ones, and there are reasons to have both of the above tool kits. BTW, there is a different camshaft alignment tool that you have to add separately for the 2.9l. You should be glad you are doing this now and not ten years ago when there weren't as many options for purchasing tools like this. I lost money on the first three times that I did this repair just because of what the tools cost me. Today you can borrow or rent the tools in most areas.


  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    That's a wealth of info there. Thanks! I changed the head gasket on a 240Z without pulling the chain one time. As I remember I used a long wood wedge to hold the tensioner in. So what is the flat rate time on pulling the engine? I'm sure the times quoted are for a GM shop with a hoist. I am working on jack stands and a creeper...BUT I do have a gantry and an air hoist. So you can see my leaning toward getting the engine out where I can put the air to it rather than working on my back. If I was sure the chain was not stretched I would replace the actuator sprocket w/o pulling the engine. But how can you tell that the chain is ok? Do you have a known good dimension over 5 rollers or something like that? If I have to buy a new chain to compare it to I might as well install it. And how about the balance shaft chain? Have you replaced any of them?
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,321
    edited October 19
    No balance shaft chains, the flat rate time is under six hours and it is done by pulling the transmission.

    As far as the chain goes, once you have the camshaft alignment tools, pull the valve cover off and start setting the timing for removal. If the camshaft line up tool shows the cams in time with the crankshaft positioned (you may have to move the exhaust cam in the actuator) then the chain is fine.
  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    Well I checked for codes today and the 17 is gone. Maybe the oil is working. Also made a tin plate to block off the secondary air valve so moisture wouldn't get to the air pump. I'll worry about both of these problems in the spring. Meanwhile I have rust-jacking on a wheel speed sensor giving me ABS faults and a back up camera to install. Also need TP sensors for my winter wheels. Do they make those in different PSI ranges? The factory ones needed over 30 PSI to satisfy them and that wore the center out of the tires.
  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    So I see today my wheel speed sensors are different than the full size trucks and not subject to rust jacking. I cleaned around the axle and blew it out thinking maybe a bit of debris got on the tone wheel but it didn't help. My dash is starting to look like a Christmas tree.
  • jarman51jarman51 Posts: 1
    My truck a Canyon 2004 crew cab sle 4x4 5 cylinder had been working fine till this early evening after I started it it started to miss and I gave it some gas and it seemed to quit so I drove across town to my daughter's home it seemed fine after spending about 3 hours there I left to go back home and the engine started to miss again a little worst than when it first started doing it. I had it in gear and gave it some gas it would seem to quit if your rpm was above 2000 but started again when it fell below that rpm I gave it gas let and off and gave it more as I was driving it.. the check engine light came on and started to blinking if I rev'd it past 2600 to 300o rpm and then let off the gas the check engine light would go off but would still be missing. Is this a throttle body problem or what?
  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    So I bought a scan tool from Harbor Freight with ABS and it's telling me the right rear wheel speed sensor is bad. Search as I may I don't find a listing for wheel speed sensors in the rear. Does the rear ABS use the speed sensor on the transfer case?
    jarman51, I feel your pain. These trucks are very problematic. Wished I had bought the Toyota. Best I can tell you is check all your grounds first when you have a weird problem.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,321
    The rear wheel speed signal is generated by the sensor on the left rear of the transfer case and received by the transmission control module. From there it is sent digitally to the PCM and the PCM then sends the signal to the electronic brake control module.

    Is the transmission shifting correctly?
    Is the speedometer reporting the vehicle speed?
  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    Transmission is a manual 5sp, no shifting problems.
    Speedo is working and accurate.
    I find the S10 had both a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) and a transfer case rear vehicle speed sensor. Are the Colorados like that? If so which one is for the ABS?
  • markseemarksee Posts: 29
    The codes are C0035, Rt. rear wheel speed sensor open or shorted. And U1064, Lost communications with body control module. Keep in mind I have the ABS2 relay unplugged so the ABS pump won't run.
Sign In or Register to comment.