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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems



  • hi, i have a 2001 jeep grand cherokee v6, 4.0, this happen to my twice,try to start my car after work and i didnt turn over. take the battery to autozone and they said its fine. next morning my car start right away. i don't know what it could be , any ideas?
  • my 04 cherokee is idleing really high and even higher in park neutral and reverse and when im stoping it jerks the gas lights on i went to autozone and did thr trouble suprot code and it said p1294 do you have any ideah what it could be and i put the bosch platnum plugs in and now the gas mileage will rise and drop lowes to 8mpg and highest at 13
  • danny80danny80 Posts: 7
    the DTC library shows the follows: P1294 Injector High Side Open - Bank 2/Target idle not reached. It means communication between CPU and one of the injector is faulty, or the injector is faulty itself. Have it checked or replaced.
  • ornumornum Posts: 5
    edited April 2012
    Ok this is my story and I hope it helps some one else.

    About late fall last year, my '98 JGC 5.2 seemed to get a hiccup while driving. Then after running around during the day and after 3 or 4 stops at different locations, it would not start. It took about an additional 30 to 45 min to start. (Some times it would start, and with the pedal all the way to the floor, I could not get it over 3000 RPM's, and it would just spit and sputter, and then die) any where from thirty minutes to an hour it would start up and run "ok".

    I replaced every thing I could think of. O2, coil, wires cap rotor, plugs, idle air control valve, coolant temp sensor, map sensor, .... and a few other things I don't remember.

    I was avoiding what I knew was inevitable.

    THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR. ... duh duh duhhhhhhhhhhh...

    I broke down and took it to my mechanic, told him every thing I did, the advice I paid for online, what this and a few other forums were doing and saying, and he agreed with all and by the looks on his face :sick: it was "most likely the CPS". That cost me $100 plus to find that out, plus it would be another $250 to replace it.


    I said thank you, I will call to schedule it later.

    I found during the winter months in Upstate NY it was cold enough that the problem was not so bad. I lived with it until TODAY!

    Now for the fix....

    It is true it is not easy to get to.... however once I found it and found the right tool to remove it, it was not all that bad and well worth the $175 I saved doing it my self.

    So first off I found that the little black and white pics in the repair manual to be confusing. The pics I am making a link to are not mine but I found to be very instrumental in this task. The availability to view them is based on how long the actual owners leave them on the web.

    #1 the picture found online and in the repair/technical manuals.

    This was actually confusing for me for the longest time. If you don't read these manuals on a daily basis, you too will most likely be confused too.

    item 1 is the rubber grommet that inserts into the "U" shaped hole in the bell housing of the transmission. Note at the top of the "U" shaped hole where it is flat, this is where the engine block and the transmission bell housing meet.

    item 2 is a pic of one of the two bolts that hold the sensor in place. Note in the pic that there is an opening in the top of this bolt. It wasn't until the day of this post and only after watching a video on you tube about changing out the sensors, that that opening is for a standard 1/4" Alan Key wrench. THIS IS VERY KEY, no pun intended.

    item 3 is the bracket with the holes that line up with the holes in the engine block. The picture depicts a much thicker bracket, I will address this later.

    items 4 & 5 are the Exhaust Manifold and pipe and all so the transmission bell housing respectively.


    This image I found on the web. It is a picture of the back of the engine with the transmission removed. You can see the flywheel and the sensor. the sensor is circled in red, and even though everything seems to be the same color. That large round disc looking thing is the flywheel. It is almost, but not, touching the sensor circled in red. The sensor detects the teeth on the flywheel.


    These last two pictures show you the sensor mounted and bolted in place. Please note that the rubber grommet is missing in the last image, and that the bolts do not let you use a socket or wrench like tool on this particular sensor.

    My bolts where like the first image as I mentioned.

    Now this is why I was confused on the first image from the manuals this whole time. The sensor is inserted into the bell housing. The first image if you are not a mechanic would look at that picture and maybe think that the sensor is laying flat on the block and on top, not inserted, through the hole into the bell housing.


    Now that you have a better visual for what you are feeling for, you should be able to locate the sensor by touch.

    First follow the instructions in your shop manual to remove the possible items in your way.

    I pulled all the spark plug wires and the ignition wire, on the passenger side of the engine. I removed the heat shield from around the manifold. ( this was not fun either and I had to rip it out, I will have to buy another one soon. And I moved or disconnected any thing that I could, that might be in the way. I did not remove the distributor cap.

    You need to make a tool to make your life easier.

    1 a ratchet
    2 1/4 inch socket
    3 1/4 inch Alan key
    4 a short extension for your ratchet and socket.

    They may make a tool like this but my jeep was up on jacks and plugs pulled,

    Cut the Alan key just under the 90 degree bend.
    Insert the longer straight piece of the Alan key into the socket. Insert the cut end into the socket.

    (NOTE to keep the Alan key from falling out while trying to use it, I found a small piece of cotton string to use while inserting the Alan key into the socket. This mad e the Alan key fit nice and tight so that it does not fall out.)

    This made my life so much easier to take the bolts out and to put them in.

    I held the tool, minus the ratchet in one hand, so that my finger was touching the tip of the Alan Key. I felt for the top of the first bolt, and wiggled the Alan Key into place, into the hole in the top of the bolt. I then put the ratchet on and was able to remove the bolts with out a problem.

    After the bolts are out, pull out the sensor, make sure to leave the rubber grommet in place, and wiggle the sensor up and out. The end of the pig tail is actually under the Jeep. There are wire zip ties, and a connection. Mine connected above the transmission. You will have to pull the sensor from below, and follow the wire to the end.

    When I reinstall the new sensor I first fed the pig tail wires, down first, and then found the hole with the rubber grommet on it, and inserted the sensor, I had to use two hand to get the sensor down, but the holes lined up perfectly, and the bolts went back into place with out any problems. The bolts fit tight on the Alan Key so I didn't drop one.

    Now you crawl under the Jeep and finish pulling down the pig tail, and reconnect the sensor.

    put every thing back the wires, and any thing else you move.


    It is not as bad as it sounds.

    OH just a SIDE NOTE I am a large person, just under 300#, I have large hands, and not skinny at all. If I can get to it any one can. :shades:
  • ornumornum Posts: 5
    Unfortunately, even though the jeep seems to be running better, it is still misfiring on multiple cylinders, after it is hot. Ran some errands yesterday, and it started but began to idle rough and spit and sputter again, and then after trying to rev the engine it cleared up again.

    Next guess are the fuel injectors.

    I will re post after that. Just doesn't make any sense to me, open to suggestions.

    But if you do suspect your crank position sensor please read my post before this one. It is not as difficult as it sounds.
  • a guy up this thread somewhere said he found the two torx screws on the ECM[computer on firewall pass side engine compartment] were too long and shorting something inside.

    they are in the middle under the wire is in view the other is behind the reservoir some.

    i tried loosening then a turn[like he did] and......


    also solved the slow battery drain key off problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • hi, i bought this jeep a couple of months ago, 50k original miles. i have had a few problems. i replaced the blower motor relay already cause blower motor did not turn off when car was off.

    i have two other problems: i have to crank the car twice for it to start. the first time it almost turns over, then i turn it off, i hear a little click down my the fuses and relays, then i crank it back on an it starts great. i have already replaced the starter, gave it a full tue-up, replaced the crank sensor and put some 'stuff' in the gas for the fuel injectors, it still takes twice to start.

    also, when my lights are on and i put the wipers on the dash lights go out, turn off the wipers and the dash light go back on. what's up with that?

    does anyone have any ideas? i love this jeep and i want to fix it.

  • Hi, I am new to JGC's and I bought an older, higher mile Jeep to start out with. So, I am expecting a few issues. LOL :)

    The question I have is about the way it has been starting. It doesn't always start first time around, but always starts the second time I try. Like its priming the engine or something (thats the vibe I get, I am very limited in mechanical knowledge).

    The delay/restart doesn't bother me...but today, I was letting my son drive it for the first time, and he pressed on the brake when beginning to start the Jeep & the battery died.
    Of course, he pressed the brake all the way to the floor! LOL... So, one of my questions is: do JGCs have some sort of safety mechanism that cuts the battery off when the brake is depressed all the way or something...or could this be an electrical issue.
    There was also a noise that accompanied this issue... it was a soft buzz, only when he let his foot OFF the brake, so he kept it depressed as to not make the noise... but I switched spots with him & I let the brake off & just let the noise happen... and it only went on for a minute or so, then I went through the process of starting it & it started just fine.

    It does have high miles (over 200,00), but I just got an oil change & a new battery put in it a few days ago... so cannot figure out why it died like that.

    And it did die, the radio was reset to I am guessing it killed the power totally.

    Any info on this type of issue is appreciated! :)
    Thank you for your time!
    Sara :)
  • 96laredo96laredo Posts: 1
    I believe this is a faulty crank position sensor which is located on the top left of the bell housing and the part cost between $50-$100 but change it when the jeep is cold
  • vortex2vortex2 Posts: 1
    If you have the 4.0L engine this may be of some help. Have you had the starter checked. I found this was the power drain on mine and sometimes it would drain just overnight. I put a new one on and it's been fine ever since then. I disconnected the wires from the starter and hooked a meter up in between the wires and the starter and found my battery drain at the starter with the Jeep off. I read somewhere the power drain should only be .013 ma and mine was .150 ma with the key off.

    Hope this helps.
  • thecez01thecez01 Posts: 4
  • duffy2514duffy2514 Posts: 10
    I have a 93 jgc with the 5.2 and only in the summer when it get's hot my ignition coil fail's. so i got two with the lifetime warrenty and now when it goe's out a 10 mm wrench and i'm back on the road in 20 minute's. then i take the bad one back for a free exchange. jeep's, gotta love them.
  • 00jeepgc100jeepgc1 Posts: 2
    I have a 00 GC. For a while now, it has been stalling on me. Most often when it is hot out and the engine has been running. It will stall while I'm giving it gas, but it happens most often while idling or when I take my foot off the gas to brake. Often, the engine will crank, but not fire after a stall. This lasts for about 1 - 2 hours, and then the engine will fire. I have replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor, but to no solution. My next thought would be the battery, or the spark plugs, etc. The fuel pressure is fine, so I don't think it's a fuel pump issue.

    Any ideas?


  • Could you let me know hw you managed to open up the PCM.

    I have an 07 SRT8 and I suspect dodgy solder joints inside cos having same problem as you and when you tap - just tap - the connector to the PCM, it dies.

    Bent all the tabs back an tried to open the cover but won't budge. Suspect some kind of glue or sealant used.

    Need help.

  • where to start... ok the biggest problem listed is the 032 code... yes they ARE intermittent, your EGR valve IS bad, no if and or buts. the service the 4wd switch is a known bug... check your fluid level in your XFER case... bring it up to the bottom of the fill hole and run it for a while, most of the time it will fix the issue... bad software in the VIC... not kidding, been there done that! Now your battery drain, that sounds like a bad.... anything electrical, but mostly check your Alternator and secondly Starter. Not just the relays but the cables and the units themselves ESPECIALLY the alternator these beasts can cause the drain you are seeing due to leaking (yes that is the correct term) diodes. You can pull it and take it into many parts stores to have it checked but often a leaking diode is missed, none the less it is a starting point, if it checks out good, throw a simple battery disconnect switch between the heavy lead and the alternator and turn it off and see if it still kills the battery ( or just disconnect it, if you dont have a switch). If that doesnt do it, then unpluf the low amperage connector on the alternator and repeat. if neither of these eliminates the drain, it isnt the alternator which is the most common cause. doing it in this manner will also tell you which internal parts you can replace, diode pack or regulator. completely disconnecting the alternator will tell you if its the alt, but then you need to diagnose which item is bad. I've run jeeps for decades. 'Rokees in particular, they dont die gracefully, they go out in a blaze of Glory! What you describe sounds like a typical Simple problem, pretending to be something major... and when you find it it will probably be a DUH moment! Like I said earlier, been there done that!
  • dragon5126dragon5126 Posts: 9
    edited June 2012
    Your problem is timing related, either valve or ignition. the giveaway is the backfire. either a valve is not operating properly, or is burned. But the most likely is your ignition. Look to the ECM or whatever the correct name for the computer control unit is... but before you do, Double check your spark plug cables to make sure you arent inducing a cross fire situation...

    There IS one other thing to Check! YOUR EXHAUST!!! If it has leaks and is literally drawing air in, and too much O2 reaches the downstream O2 sensor (after the catalytic converter), this type of situation can be triggered....
  • Hey All,
    I have and '02 JGC 4.0. It runs well, have had a myriad of electrical problems, most somewhat easily fixable. Now I am having an issue with it starting. Knock on wood, it has never NOT started, but it sure sounds like it isn't going to pretty often. It honestly sounds like a weak battery or starter to me, but I had my mechanic take a look at the starter and he metered it and said it is drawing exactly what it should for amperage. My alternator is putting out 14.2 volts when running, which is right around where it should be. My battery is a year old, and have had it tested 3 times and all tests come back good.

    I am at a loss as to what could be causing her to sound soooo labored :sick: when it is turning over. Anyone out there have the same issue, or have any suggestions as to where I should start? Any help would be greatly appreciated...

  • I have had my 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo ( Strt 6 and 130k miles) for almost 6 months. When I bought it from a small dealership it ran great, had alot of power, very reliable. Then about 6 weeks after i bought it, I was driving to the store, I went to stop at a stop light and it turned off. No big deal I just put it in park and then went on my way. Then it progressivly got worse, shutting off at stop lights, stop in go traffic on the free way. Then it got worse, it got to were I would be driving perfectly fine, cruising 50-65mph no issues and then when applying more gas it would slow down instead of speed up, sometimes I can get it to work through the issue and continue on my way but most times it will slow down until it back fires and then eventually dies. I talked to my friend who is a mechanic he hooked it up to his computer and said the 'ignition coil is bad' so I ordered the stinking coil, we replaced it but alas it didnt work. He ran his computer again and it said the 'ignition coil' then started telling me random sensors were bad. Upon reading other peoples issues and resolutions we decided that perhaps the PCM was bad so we replaced it. My friend did a tune up and noticed that the distributor cap, the spark plugs/ and wires had all been replaced. New PCM said O2 sensors were bad so we replaced them. So new PCM and sensors my Jeep was running great full power restored, not dying, alittle broke from the parts I replaced but other wise happy. Then about two months later its back to the way it was before I replaced the computer. what I need to know is what else could be causing my jeep to act up? Or is there a recall that I am not aware of. I am a single mother who doesnt have a whole lot of money to continue sinking it into a car to make it safe for me and my son. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  • gc59gc59 Posts: 1
    I have a 98 GC and at some times when i'm at a light stopped it will idle real low then shut off. Also when im accelarating it will lose power andslow down. I would have to pump the accelarator to bring back to normal. I just put in a new alternator. Any ideas?
  • kramer842kramer842 Posts: 5
    This sounds similar to the problem I had a year ago. What are the engine codes? If they're P0505-which I had, then it could be one of several problems. Initially that's the idle air control and or idle control valve. But it turned out with my 99 GC 4.8L, it was the PCM. Did a ton of research with two different local jeep mechanics, 2 jeep forums and a jeep guru mechanic. Here's how I got my jeep back on the road and running great.!keywords=#MSG971

    Best of luck!
  • I have the exact same problem as Swelms. I own a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and if I have been driving for a long time, the power just dies. The speedometer goes down and the rpm drops from 3000 to 1000. If I give more gas, than the car brakes.
    I usually let go of the gaspedal for a few seconds and then I can drive again, but this only resolves the problem for a little bit and eventually I need to give my car a rest for about 20 to 30 minutes and then it is fine again.

    I asked a few mechanics and even in a Jeep garage, nobody had ever heard of this problem. So I really hope somebody can give me an idea what the problem is and how to fix it?

    Thank you soooo much!!!
  • ralkaralka Posts: 72
    I have an 02 grand cherokee (v8) when driving home i thought i felt a misfire but got home without a continuing problem. when i went to start it the next day it cranked but wouldn't start. the codes that i found ( 7 of them) were po455 ,po171. po174,po442.po158,po161, and po0300 i can relate there discriptions if needed but they are basically evap leak large , o2 sensor 2 on bank 2 heater and high voltage, random misfire and bank 1 and 2 lean. the light of course had come on but it ran great until i felt the misfire. any help on where to start would be greatly appreciated
  • danny80danny80 Posts: 7
    I would recommend to check up the heated wire sensor in the air intake. The wire sensor is very often dirty by the air deposits - grease dust etc. It makes a signal distortion and possible control problems.
    The cleaning is very simple, only be careful not to damage the wire.
  • danny80danny80 Posts: 7
    by my experience it runs as follows:
    - the bank 2 O2 upstream sensor is bad - trouble codes P0158 - P0174. It costs a few bucks only
    - the unevitable misfires follow - P0300
    - after that goes too much unburned fuel to the charcoal cannister, that cannot to process it - code P0442.
    Have the upstream O2 sensor checked and replaced, then deleted the DTCs.
    I hope it helps
  • ralkaralka Posts: 72
    thanks for the insight, i will replace the o2 sensor first and see where that leads. i will let you know if that works
    thanks again for the help
  • danny80danny80 Posts: 7
    I wonder if it comes right.
    I may only have been wrong in one thing: the EVAP cannister absorbes fuel vapours from the tank primarily. But is connected to the PCV valve, there could be a little bit unburned fuel which makes problem for the emission control system.
    I think faulty O2 sensor is essential.
  • jhart4jhart4 Posts: 1
    Here's my suggestion for this problem. I am posting this solution in various places because there are many forums and this problem seems to be widespread.
    About a year ago, my 97 GC started with the stalling problem. I have replaced everything that everyone talks about ...It is a complete shutdown of ignition....Code readers say that it is the ignition coil, or ignition coil signal. It is also very random....and not necessarily heat related. Sometimes, the vehicle won't start after sitting all night....sometimes it will stall when backing out of the driveway....sometimes after 10 minutes of driving....sometimes not at all for a trip to the store, but then stall several times coming home from the store. One thing is for sure….it gets worse and worse as time goes on.
    Sometimes, it helps to disconnect the battery....sometimes, it doesn't. There are times when it refuses to restart, and then unplugging and replugging various sensors helps. Sometimes, it helps to reseat the PCM connectors....and then sometimes it doesn't.
    Well....I've been through all the replacement stuff...I've traversed the awful sensation of the car stopping suddenly while I'm in the center lane during rush hour....I've experienced the horror of stalling in the middle of an intersection, and the frustration of not getting to work on time.
    Oh baby...I know this problem...and I am a long-time veteran of electronic circuitry. I am a component-level troubleshooter, and I was not about to allow this problem to win the day.

    Unfortunately...this problem is allusive in it's randomness....and also by the pesky disappearance when you replace a sensor....then it rears its ugly head a few days later. So......after $500-$1000 worth of component are left with the same problem and a box of used parts that probably were never bad to begin with.

    So....On to the solution. Now, one person on another forum suggests shortening the length of the PCM cover screws a bit. I’m not convinced that this does anything…but it seemed to work for him.

    Nevertheless....I was willing to shorten up those screws, simply because it doesn't hurt to give it a try. There's no doubt that the problem rests in the PCM Connector configuration. Whether it is dirt, corrosion, or poor intimate contact....the problem is there.

    I've noted that several people claim success using zip ties on the connectors, and while this may work, I am uncomfortable with the use of zip ties because they put stress on connectors in weird directions....the problem may return over time.

    I was convinced that the solution rests in ensuring a zero-vibration environment at the connector. But the connectors needed to be seated firmly and perfectly perpendicular to the surface of the PCM.

    The screws? well, they might play a part in all this, but I could see nothing down in the screw holes that would suggest a short circuit with a circuit board is just an empty hole. The screws could be corroded, and not making good contact...but if you remove the screws completely, the symptoms don't change. Sooo I'm skeptical.

    So, I ran into a forum post elsewhere that describes this same problem, and the creation of a connector bracket. This sounded perfect. So I made one. It cost me $6.43 for the took 15 minutes to make the bracket....and 45 minutes to install.....and my stalling problem is gone.

    Very simple. Go to Home the following junk:
    1 - 36" Steel Bar 1" wide X 1/8" thick
    2 Bolts 4" long X 1/4
    2 Wingnuts (1/4")">

    From the steel bar, using a hacksaw, cut off 2 lengths of bar 9" long each.
    Drill holes large enough for the bolts on both ends of the bars
    One bar goes behind the PCM
    One bar goes on top of the connectors
    Use the wingnuts to tighten the connectors firmly into place.

    Remove your battery cables and short them together (use a wrench or screwdriver)
    Remove the coolant overflow tank hose...set aside (1 minute)
    Remove three coolant overflow tank mounting screws (5 minutes)
    Remove coolant overflow tank (1 minute)
    Remove PCM Connectors from PCM (1 minute)
    Remove 3 PCM Mounting bolts (5 minutes)
    Remove PCM (30 seconds)
    Remove screws from front plate of PCM and grind them shorter or replace them with shorter screws (just in case)(5 minutes)
    Place one bar on backside of PCM...Place other bar on front...then wingnut them in place from the front(this is just to get the bracket in place because you can't put the bolts on while the PCM is still mounted on the firewall) (2 minutes)
    Now Mount the PCM back onto the firewall (5 minutes)
    Loosen the wingnuts out to the end of the bolts....Install the connectors....tighten down the wingnuts with great zeal, but not so much as to distort the bar very much. (there will be some bow in the bar...but don't sweat it)(5 minutes)
    Now reinstall your Overflow coolant tank (5 minutes)
    Reconnect your battery (2 minutes)
    Start Car and Drive away.
    Stop Car..get out....close hood...Now drive away
  • ralkaralka Posts: 72
    i had a chance to look at the jeep (02 jgc 4.7) today, and found that there is no fuel getting to the throttle body. i than shot some 2
    +2 down and it did run briefly, i than pulled the fuel filter/regulator above the rear differential and pulled one of the lines going to the tank and cycled the ignition to see if any fuel exited the line (none). i am thinking fuel pump but i do hear what sounds like the pump starting when the key is turned. does anyone know if the pump can be running if it is bad and is there anything else that will stop fuel pressure to the engine?
  • wam22wam22 Posts: 1
    Hope the oil sending unit was your problem. I had the same problem but it turned out to be much more extensive. Not trying to scare you. I had about 210K on the original engine. Apparently the engine bearings get out of shape and when the engine warms up the oil pressure drops. I replaced the oil pump and tried a more viscous oil which helped a little. Drove the engine for another year or so until I finally ended up with a hole in a piston from lack of lubrication. I replaced the engine myself but it was still $2k. Good luck and I hope it's minor.
  • pjd1280pjd1280 Posts: 2
    edited August 2012
    I can be driving and not only does it stall but it loses ALL power! Also once I get somewhere and shut it off most of the time it won't start again untill it cools off. I have changed the plugs, and the coil, checked the water and the trans oil. This started about 6 mos aga and is getting worse! Help this to lady that service tech poor to fix it please? :(
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