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Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions



  • Not sure with that many codes. What is going on with acutal running of the truck? are there any mechanical issues you can notice? If not then I might think about disconnecting negative cable to battery and the reconnect 15 minutes later. It might reset itself which happen with my truck when I replaced the TPS. Did you try this when you replaced the carak and camshaft sensor? I know that when I did this is reset the computer and no longer got the code this was after fixing the problem. let me know if this works Header1974
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Just wonder why I have not seen it in any of the manuals. The FACTORY shop manual clearly explains this (and many other) troubleshooting capabilities of your Dakota.

    *)The FACTORY shop manual has step-by-step instructions how to troubleshoot/isolate most problems.
    *)The FACTORY shop manual lists, diagrams and locates EVERY electricial connector in your Dakota.
    *)The FACTORY shop manual has paragraphs describing EVERY component and its function. (Automatic-xmission chapter is 100s of pages)

    I suspect you are not looking in a FACTORY shop manual. All the other ones (Chilton, Hanes...etc) have no connection to the factory and are very careful to NOT infringe on copywright of the FACTORY shop manual.... thus they necessarrly do not have the same content.
  • I have a 1995 dakota 3.9 a/t that shuts down after 5 to 10 minutes. I have to wait 45 minutes to 1 hour before it may or may not start. It may or may not run for 5 to 10 more minutes. Replaced the magnetic pick up in the distributor,and the fuel pump relay. I then took the truck to aamco for a scan and was told it may be a bad wire in the computer or the computer it self. please anyone HELP BEFORE I SET THISTRUCK ON FIRE!!!!
  • :confuse: I have a 1992, dodge dakota ,3.9L, V 6, 2x4, no air conditioning, standard package that is really screwed up and I've got a problem!! The other day I hit some ''wonderful potholes'' and everything went dark. Mind you this happened at 6:30 am so it was dark out. I now have no headlights, no marker lights (front and back), no brake lights, no dash lights, the anti-lock and brake lights are lit up in the dash and the horn don't blow. I DO have flashers and 4-ways. I have checked ALL fuses and all are good. I do hear a clicking noise (something like a house breaker blowing) when I push in my lightswitch. The sound comes from around the area of the rear wheels ???? I'm looking for some indication as to what direction to go now. If anybody can give me some insight to this wierd mess it would be of great appreciation!!!!!
  • I was told I need a power steering switch for my truck to pass smog. Here's the kicker the factory never installed one. So now the dealer says we will install one for 500 bucks! Have any of you dakota owners run into this problem before? How did you pass smog?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    WOOOAAHHH. Something is fishy here.

    It is up to the MANUFACTURER to guarantee emmissions... the owner should NEVER have to pay for this kind of stuff. Read the Federal Emmissions Warantee that comes with every vehicle sold in USA.

    Besides, what does a power-steering switch have to do with emmissions-control? All the switch does is increase idle a tad when there is pressure in the line... thus keeping engine from stalling when you are mauvering in parking lots.

    Personally - I think you are being fed a line of cr@p.

    Are you CERTAIN they are talking about powersteering switch?
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Something smells fishy to me too. What does power steering have to do with emissions???
  • I would suggest testing PCV valve, hoses (make sure not old and clapsing) and the catalaytic converter test if they are saying your not passing emissions. good luck
  • Power steering switch leak fluid through the wiring to the o2 sensor causing incorrect readings. check to see if 02 sensor plug is wet? If it is, change 02 and ps switch Glenn
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I could understand that argument.... But the appender said their Dak DID NOT HAVE a PS switch??
  • Did you ever get an answer to your problem? I have a 2001 with the same problem: revs up high when cranked, surges as your driving at a steady speed (around 50), and idles higher while sitting at a light with the a/c on. I've had it to my mechanic 3 or 4 times, and he can't figure it out. No check engine light is on. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • hello need help my oil pump went off and the last time it did this i changed the oil and only put in synthetic it cleared it now its doing it again but now there is gas in my oil i had a chevy once that had gas in the oil and i had to replace the head gaskets will i have to do the same thing it hasnt lock up but im afraid to start it dont want to catch on fire dip stick is showing over fill on oil but gas is present help
  • jyrojyro Posts: 4
    I think your truck's problem could be a bad / stuck injector.
    And the length of your sentence is impressive.
  • ok how would one diagnose thru a mechanic or are there alterneratives not alot of funds available :confuse:
  • decided to open my hood this am and when i opened the air filter wow there was a burn hole in the filter from the hose so now ??? is that my sign to know i have a bad injector :sick: :confuse:
  • wow i had that happen on my 94 dakota the peeps here recommended i replace the relays there is one above the rear wheels that gave me all lights missing in rear then i had to replace the front which is located above transmission. hope it helps
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I am assuming you are refering to the smaller hose (perhaps 3/4 inch diamater) that plugs into top of air-filter-housing.

    That hose is supposed to only SUCK air into top of cylinder-head for the PCV system. The purpose of the PCV valve is to maintain a slight VACUUM in the crankcase so this hose constantly SUCKS air out of the air-filter-housing.

    If there is backpressure into the air-filter-housing thru that hose... suspect your PCV-valve may need to be replaced... or your engine has excessive blowby.
  • ok so take for instance the pcv valve is defective would that cause the gas to mix heavy in my oil or if i have excessive blowby is that cause the heavy mixture ? what causes excessive blowby a bad injector? another thing would excessive gas in the oil cause the oil pump to shut down? i really appreciate this feed back i hate to have her parked especially in this in the country and its a long driveway from the bus for my kids to walk in the rain and cold thanks again
    i did notice when i removed the air filter it was actually stuck to the lid as well as having a large burn area at the position of the hose.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Blowby [sic] usually is from a bad piston ring, which allows the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder to leak past (or blow by) the piston rings, thus contaminating the oil.

    A bad injector, which puts too much fuel into the cylinder, could cause blowby by rinsing the oil film off the walls of the cylinder. The piston rings need a thin film of oil for them to seal properly. Or, you could just have a bad/broken ring.

    I think a cylinder leak down test would be able to tell you if this is your problem or not.
  • thank you for the reply im assuming i have to have a shop do the cylinder leak down test .thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Which engine do you have in that 94 Dak?
  • it a 6 cyl 3.9 :blush:
  • ok well we replaced the PCV valve it was majorly blocked and a friend showed me how when i shake it back and forth it should make a noise so since he replaced this plus a new hose since the hose totally cracked my pump is staying off tomorrow ill change the oil and filter and hope the synthetic oil i put will wake up my oil pump if not guess well have to put a new pump in thanks for the advice yall gave without it i wouldnt have made it easier to explain the help i needed from my girlfriends brother.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I am glad that I was able to diagnose the plugged PCV valve for you from your description.

    I would suggest AGAINST trying synthetic oil to "wake up" a weak oil-pump. This is because synthetic oil is less-viscous (thinner) than dyno-oil and harder to build-up pressure.

    Instead, change oil/filter using dyno-oil and add a can of STP Oil Treatment. This will add viscosity-improvers (thickeners) to your oil and some xtra detergent. You may find that the oil-pump is able to built-up pressure with the thickeners in the oil

    It is a LOT cheaper to try STP Oil Treatment instead of tearing-apart engine to replace oil-filter.

    In fact.... one time I used STP Oil Treatment to 'assist' a weak oil-pump and to my surprise, the problem never came back over the next 2 years. (without adding STP Oil Treatment again!!) I suspect that the xtra detergents cleaned the cr@p out of the oil-passagways.
  • I NEED SOME HELP!!!! i have a 2000 dodge dakota 3.9L V6. here recently, i had to pull the engine out. due to the freeze plugs leaking very badly in the back of the block and next to the oil filter. i figured that it would be way to fix the problem. I got the engine out with no issues at all. replaced all the freeze plugs and checked for leaks. thank the lord no leaking!!!while the engine was out, i replaced the valve cover gasket, water pump and bypass tube, and replaced rotor cap ,distributor and wires. placed engine back into truck and replaced all wiring and vacuum hoses to there approperate locations. filled up coolant and completed all hook- up to the engine. Now is where i am having the issues. i am now trying to start up the engine... it has taken me a few tries since i have to get fuel flowing back into the injectors. i can get the engine to turn over, but i cannot keep it running. whenever i take my foot off the gas it dies. i have heard that when retiming, you have to rev up the engine to 1500 RPM for 5 minutes and that is supposed to retime. its not working? Anyone have any suggestions that will help me? i forgot to mention that i also replaced the PCV valve and just over the summer replaced throttle position module. thanks for anyones suggestions! i also have the issue where i have tried to keep my foot on the gas and tried to place into gear and died right now. HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!
  • I have a 92 Dakota 4x4 5.2l with about 140,000 on it. The truck is getting spark, fuel, and has about 140 lbs of compression in every cylinder. The truck will crank and fire, run for about a second, and then blow pressure through the throttle body. After doing this for some time I noticed a lot of fuel mixed with the oil, which led me to believe that it was flooding or had poor spark. Replaced, Crank sensor, distributor pickup, cap, rotor, plug wires, plugs, coil, Engine coolant sensor, Air temp sensor. New Egr valve (old one was missing parts). And a used Ecm. I checked the distributor time, with number 1 at TDC the rotor lines up with the pickup coil mark and the number 1 terminal on the cap. I also removed the under hood fuse box and repaired any wires that looked corroded. Still nothing. if one spark plug is completely removed from the engine (in order to test for spark) while cranking the engine it will run for five seconds or so, but obviously very bad. I have totally ran out of ideas. If any one has any suggestions, they would be greatly appreciated.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    It sounds like either timing or a stuck/leaking valve to me. But, since the compression test went OK, that sort of rules out a bad valve. Could a really bad valve lash adjustment cause this?

    Looks like you replaced the major components that would lead to a timing problem.

    Don't have much else to suggest. Let us know what turns up.
  • jyrojyro Posts: 4
    Hey bud, as much logical stuff as you have done, and based on the compression, I would have to question if you've got water in your gas. Or maybe a clogged / clogging injector. Just my $0.02 worth.
  • Looks like I have found it, the timing chain has not jumped, but has excessive slack, The crank will almost turn 1 tooth before the cam will start to turn.... Hopefully a new timing set and I will be good to go.
  • I have a 2000 dodge dakota 3.9L V6 and i am asking if anyone knows how to time the engine back to the computer settings? battery was removed and now spits and sputters.
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