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Hyundai Elantra Problems 2007+



  • thadsonthadson Posts: 9
    We are wondering what the insurance company has found out about the cause of your car accident. We really hope the best for you.
    Please let us know what exactly you would like to know about our “incidents” with the speeding and we will be happy to help you in any way we can. Looking forward to hearing from you.
  • Over a yr ago I posted I had a similiar problem with my car but it was happening sporadically. And about 5 times total. Lucky for me I was in cruise control each time and it didn't go faster than 10 miles more than what I had the cruise set for. Each time it was on the highway. I even was on my way to the dealer to get a mat for the back of my trunk the first time it happened. And they told me they couldn't find anything wrong. My husband is the one who caused the recall immediately on the fuel pumps due to the fact there was a 2 car, 1 18 wheeler pileup in NJ and we ended up sued. The Insurance Co sued Hyundai and my husband had to sign a waiver that he would not sue Hyundai himself. That was part of the Insurance payoff to the one guy who sued everybody involved. Our insurance didn't go up as the Insurance Co sued Hyundai. It affected my husband only. Not me. As I own the same car. I didn't have to sign my rights away to anything like him but the insurance co told him he HAD to sign off on sueing so they could get reimbursed.

    I keep complaining about my emergency brake not working. And they tell me there is nothing wrong. The car lurches forward on a slight incline after you put it in park and take your foot off the brake and the emergency brake does not hold it. It rolls forward. They told me the same thing. No problem. It was checked out 4 times for that. 2 the first 5 months I owned the car. Now, you can actually put the emergency brake on and drive down the road. My friend was driving the other day and accidentally left the Emergency brake on as I told them to use it and they are not used to using it all the time. And drove a mile wondering why it sounded like they had snow tires on it.

    Also, I fell and broke my arm in Feb. So it came up for inspection in June and I still couldn't drive the 30 miles to the dealer as my husband kept saying go to Hyundai in case there is something wrong. Well, there was always a noise in my front end they told me was nothing too. So, I went local to Midas. And our Midas dealer will look for things to fix to make money off you. He did my inspection and told me I had a front end problem and told me my front tires were going bad. I have 9000 miles on a 2 yr old car and he told me there were too many warranties on my car that he would not touch anything, but rotated the tires and told me my back tires were going to get ruined too. And he documented it.

    I called Hyundai up where I bought the car. Took it in. Turned out I was driving all this time with a bad alignment. From day one of owning it!!! The dealership gave me a FREE front end alignment. Didn't tell me it was an alignment and dumb me does not know what toed in means. So I called Midas up and he told me that meant I got a free alignment. They were going to do it as a warranty repair, but on the bill wrote Dealership Customer Satisfaction Repair Free.

    Midas told me that they knew my front tires were going to go and rather than have to replace 4 tires, they did this. As my tires on the back now are not very good. With only 9000 miles on them. And they had been rotated when I had nitrogen put in them a yr ago. At Hyundai who never said anything to me. I told my husband from now on I am getting my oil change at Midas and letting them look at my tires and keep on top of it. I will not get anymore oil changes at the Dealership even if they do send me free coupons.

    I am annoyed over the fact I kept telling them and they said nothing wrong until I came in with bad front tires. I also think I need an adjustment to my Emergency Brakes but I know they will make me pay for that as they have been telling me from day one there was nothing wrong. I give up on the brakes not working right. I get tired of complaining to them. I figure my next oil change I will tell Midas to look at them for me and get that in writing and they KNOW I have been complaining since the car was first bought.
  • snyder94snyder94 Posts: 3
    edited August 2010
    Did your popping/cracking noise from the back window of your 09 Elantra get resolved by the dealer adding the spacers?
  • Any news from Elantra 09 owners getting the back window popping/cracking noise fixed? If so, what was the fix?
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    edited August 2010
    That is a shame they put u off so much. And it seems to be exactly opposite of Hyundai's many claims on all their brochures that state that their customers are number one no matter what. And that will strive to do whatever it takes to make them happy and smart car owners by a "smart" car company... - insert :roll eyes: emoticon here I guess..

    Consider having them view and comment on those quotes in their brochures right in front of you. And don't even waste time with sales and reception or service manager either. You messed around enough, make an appointment with dealership owner. It is not uncommon for them to not be very far away from their bread and butter.
    Good luck.

    Also, A/C throttle step-up solenoid adjustment might be responsible for a slight rpm increase, but not to any degree that brakes couldn't easily overcome.
    This solenoid is designed to up the rpm of the engine to compensate when the A/C compressor cycles on, when car idling.
  • I've been reading through the forum here as I'm looking for a new car and I've been looking alot at 2008 Elantras.

    Now, all of this about acceleration when pushing the brakes gets me nervous, but I have to ask, is there a difference in where you're getting your car inspected? I mean, I've ben reading about people having problems in Ohio and NJ, but from my experience, neither of those 2 states have inspection qualities like PA (Where I'm from.) And I also wonder that about the people who say that they driving in winter is bad. IS that perhaps because they are not used to driving in snow?

    I'm in no way saying that anyone is wrong, I'm just curious. Obviously, I don't own the car yet, but I loved it when I test drove it. And I only started to look at them because a friend told me how much he loved his '03. If anyone has any info on this, please let me know. I'm looking into buying in the next week or so.
  • thadsonthadson Posts: 9
    Not much snow here in Florida...

    The car got inspected by the factory representatives and supposedly they have found nothing.

    However it was interesting on the lemon law arbitration, that their representative asked questions like they would know exactly what is going on, but have to deny it, not to lose money...

    like "you had the cruise control on, right?"

    The '03 model is 3rd generation, the '08 model is fourth generation, two very different cars...

    We do love out '08 model, except that small thing of fearing for our lives whenever driving it...
  • clif316clif316 Posts: 1
    hi everyone can someone help
    I have a 2010 elantra and been having brake in the morning,on the first time i use the brakes ,it seams like the brakes just grab and almost put you true the windshield almost got rearened a cupple times and after the first cupple times after that everything is fine on the brakes .
    i had it to the dealer a cupple times on this and thay cant find anything wrong with it maybe there is someone out there that has the same probe or can help....
    thanks in advance
  • I've been browsing through this forum for a while after I had pretty much made my mind up on the Elantra. I was going to look at them tomorrow and see what kind of price they could offer. Edmunds review had me sold on the Elantra.

    Now after reading through this thread and some others, I'm wondering if it would just be a mistake. I love looking and seeing the common problems and things to look out for, but there seem to be a LOT of them posted here and from the looks of it, a lot of the dealers aren't too concerned about getting them fixed.

    Now I am thinking of looking back at the Corolla and Forte.

    Would any of you guys consider buying one again? Do you regret buying it now? I'd love to hear your thoughts. This car looked like it would be a great value from the reviews I had read, but after reading this I am wondering if they spent the money on a nice initial impression only to cover up problems to come soon after purchase.

    I like to keep my cars for a long time so I do as much research as possible before I make a purchase like this. Thanks in advance for any advice or thoughts on this.
  • getmtggetmtg Posts: 4
    edited September 2010
    I've owed 6 Hyundai's since 1999. My first was an Elantra, which I liked so much that I bought a second Elantra 6 months later. Over 10 years, I've purchased 4 Elantras, 1 Sonata, and 1 XG350L. I service my cars regularly and the older ones were still running after 240,000 miles, when I gave them to various family members.

    The only one that gave me a problem was my 2007 Elantra, whose braking system was not designed to function well in ice and snow, sub-freezing temperatures. Outside of that, the vehicle functioned well. My solution to the problem, which Hyundai did not acknowledge, was to give that car to my son who lives in San Diego. He loves it and it gives him 30MPG.

    My 2000 Elantra was totaled when a driver ran a red light at 50-60MPH, striking me at the driver's door. The airbags and steel construction saved my life, with me walking away with a head injury and cuts & bruised. The engine was pushed slightly into the passenger compartment, but missed my legs by 4-6 inches.

    My 2002 Sonata has reached well over 200,000 miles. Three months ago, Hyundai replaced the entire sub-frame during a recall. The car runs like it was new and gives me 32-35MPG on the highway. I expect this car to press 300,000 miles before I give it away to a charity.

    My 2005 XG350L has the look and features of a Lincoln Continental/ Jaguar cross, rides great giving me 26 MPG on the highway, and was purchased on October 31st which is a key date for buying a Hyundai. I received a $3,500 rebate, a $1000 loyalty discount, and negotiated a deal that allowed me to purchase the car for $9,000 below sticker.

    Would I buy another Hyundai- YES!

    When would I buy it: late October or between Christmas and the end of January.

    Factory and dealer incentives to unload the remaining last year models is highest and the best deals can be had.

    As far as the little stuff goes, with a 60,000 mile bumper-to-bumper and a 100,000 drive train warranty, and 5-year road service package, Hyundai's are the best priced cars on the market and give you the most for your money as long as you service them on a regular basis.
  • Thanks. After reading some of this stuff you start to wonder how well they hold up. I also wouldn't want to hear constant rattling or something after the first year.

    I was thinking of purchasing this month only because they have some incentives and rebates going on right now. I'm not sure how often they run those or if they'll get better as it gets later in the year.
  • Hyundai, independent from their dealers, offer give-backs on a monthly basis throughout the year. Dealers will add incentives to make their end of the quarter numbers, which can give them bonus cash based on total units sold.

    The most leftovers are found during the 3rd and 4th quarters of the year. Depending on model sell-through, the better incentives usually come at the end of the 3rd quarter through to the end of the year. In January or February, "floor-plan" needs can cause the dealer to take full ownership of the leftovers, complete with factory incentives, in order to eliminate high interest costs. At that time, they will highly discount those units to get their investment back, quickly.

    Have fun shopping, and don't be afraid to pitch dealer against dealer, or counter the dealer's offer (realistically). A fun technique is to locate 2-4 vehicles that you like from the same dealer. Calculate your offer/s for all 4 vehicles, stating that you want to buy a car that offers you what you want at a good price. That you've narrowed it down to these specific cars, not favoring a specific one, and these are the prices that you are willing to pay. Tell them that if they want to make a deal, pick the one that works for them and you can then go forward, and that if they don't want to make a deal, you'll work with someone who will.

    In this economy, they will want to deal. By making it their choice as to which car they want to sell you, they can calculate to the one that needs to get off floor plan.

    Just make sure you make an offer that favors you, and that you've done your homework based on area dealers offers and prices.

    Have fun...

    It's only a game (that you should win)...
  • Elantra - 09 owners who had the issue of the back window popping/cracking please update on what has been done to avoid the noise.

    As I had mentioned in one of my previous posts, the lubricant that was applied a few times between the window and its seal, worked quite well. But, after a year, I am now starting to hear that noise again once in a while...

    Would appreciate if everyone updates on their solutions for this problem -- what worked and what didn't. Thanks!
  • i am having the same problem with my 2009 elantra and i can not find where it is coming from. its driving me nuts too. do the dealers know about this???
  • Elantra se bought in may of 2009.... as we took delivery & drove off the lot the car window popped & we thought it was going to fall out!!
    long story short--- hyundai is in denial over this problem & all i get from my service department is " cannot duplicate sound." i have even offered to drive the "techs" . If someone knows of a fix or what the problem is i would greatly apprecialte it. there has to be a internal service bulletin on this problem!!!
    thank you for any advice! :(
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    I thought I saw the reason earlier on in this thread. Don't recall what it was or how far back, but the rear window was mentioned and I thought a fix. But not sure..
  • I have a question that I'm hoping 07 and newer Elantra owners can answer for me. Though I have a 2010 Accent, Hyundai would most likely use the same heater system across models and there is no one talking about the Accent so I thought I would try here. My question is this: Is there a heater valve that blocks engine coolant from entering the heater core in the center of the dash or does the coolant flow through it at all times for quicker heat?

    If you drive your Elantra with the AC off, do you feel any heat around your feet? Do the center console plastic panels to the right of the gas pedal feel warm to the touch?

    I noticed one day while driving my Accent with the AC off and the windows open, that it felt like a little space heater was right by my feet. The temp knob is all the way cool and when turning the vent on, the air coming out of the vents was outside temp air. But my feet still felt like a heater was blowing on them so I started feeling around the panels by the feet and noticed it was warm to the touch. I than made the mistake of leaning over and feeling the center console panel in the passenger footwell. I say mistake because I stuck my hand a little higher and 2 of my fingers came in contact with an exposed red hot aluminum pipe leading to the heater core. I burned my finger tips slightly. I was shocked for 2 reasons: one, that the pipe wasn't wrapped in some kind of insulation or hidden by the panel to keep from getting burned and two because the pipe shouldn't have been hot at all since the heater was not on (that is IF there is a heater valve blocking coolant from entering until the temp knob is turned up).

    I'm thinking the heater valve is stuck open a little, but what throws that thought off is the air coming out of the vents is not heated and the AC works great. When the AC is on, the cold evaporator core (which is located right next to the heater core) offsets whatever heat the heater core puts off. I plan on mentioning this issue when I take my car in for it's first oil change, but might not if other Hyundai owners can chime in and let me know if the heater is designed to have coolant running through it at all times.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    I don't have one, if I did I could tell you by looking under the hood near the firewall. Usually if it is valved you will see a valve in one of the two lines going thru the firewall top the heater core. ANd yes the valve could be stuck slightly open (confirm that the lever has enough movement AT the valve (even tho it has gone full stroke inside the car). Sometimes they slip in the keeper a bit. BUT....most new cars use a blend door from the heater core. It blends cool with warm air. ANd in those cars usually there is no heather core valve. They did this on purpose (run coolant year round thru the heater core) to help fend off corrosion build up in the heater core from lack of coolant circulation in the summer months. So you might have a blend door sticking. But because the Accent is an economy car, it is possible they are still using a valve in the coolant line. (until they have used up all their valves in quite common practice).

    The cooler air thru the vents is quite common practice among many brands, regardless of where temp control is set. The theory being that 'high' or vent directed cooler fresh air keeps you alert, but try not to dwell on the fact that your fingers and arms are freezing off in the winter.

    As for unprotected lines, most people wouldn't be sticking their fingers up there. Trust me, having a great, fast, HOT heater and COLD A/C is far more important.
    Sorry to hear about the burn though. Did you run quick to put it in cold water? That helps a burn a lot. The faster you dip in cold the better. I guess u were driving tho..
  • post dated Mon 4/5/2010 9:31 AM

    I have the same problem with my Limited Edition 08. I figured out that this noise is coming from trunk. I lubricate the hinges and the rubber buffer and seems like the noise is gone. Looks like over the time hinges got dry and star making cracking sound.

    I have an 06 Limited Elantra but have not experienced this problem. Worth a try.
  • Thanks for the info and quick reply. Most of my previous cars had a heater valve connected to the temp knob by a cable. You could feel the cable being pulled as you turned the knob. My Accent doesn't have this feeling, so turning the knob probably electronically controls the blender door. I was mainly trying to find out if it was normal nowadays for coolant to flow through the heater core year round and you have confirmed this, thus taking away my biggest concern. I didn't know it had become common to delete the heater valve. Even if the blender door is working properly on my car, it would still be possible to feel heat emanating from the box where the heater core is stored wouldn't it? Do they put heavy insulation around the heater box? I now think the cross airflow from the windows being open caused the heat to travel over my feet and everything is probably ok with my car. How odd for automakers to allow all that heat into the car. I would think the AC has to work extra hard to overcome it. That being said, my 2010 Accent's heater works much faster than my old 00 Accent with a heater valve.

    By the way, I was doing the inspection while sitting in a parking lot. If I had been driving, I probably would have been introduced to a tree ;) The contact with the pipe was brief enough that the burn was very minor, plus I went into a restaurant and got a few ice cubes on it about 8 minutes later and I think that lessened the burn. The pipe wasn't way up there though. If you open the passenger door and kneel outside, you can see the pipe plain as day. The plastic panel really needs to go higher to block this pipe from contact. Better yet, if the pipe had insulation on it, much less heat would infiltrate the interior.
  • My 2007 Elantra produces a 'clunk' sound when going over bumps / rough roads at a lower speed. When I took the vehicle in for the Timing Belt change @ 62,000 Pep Boys mentioned to me something about Strut joints or mountings being loose -- but not dangerous to drive. Could someone tell me what that means and the cost to fix???

  • 2007 elantra

    rear door locks are making a clicking noise without being activated. This happens if car is on or off.
    Rear park light is out on drivers side, bulb replaced. Are these related???
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Pretty much unlikely.
  • I bought my car on Oct 2, 2010 brand new from the lot. It had a whole 70 something miles on it when I drove it off the lot. It's been over all a good car EXCEPT it's a fire hazzard for me. It has a tons of static electricity in it which I believe to be due to the very cheap material used to cover the seats. My hair which is a little below shoulder length sticks to my seats every day, all day. When I touch or anyone touches me inside the car I get a wonderful shock each and every time to remind me of the good ole static in my car. My hair sticks to the seats all day long which makes it look at though my seat is growing hair. But the most wonderful part of all is when I get out to pump gas. I get to wonder if I am gonna blow up myself and the others around me whom are pumping gas as well because of the static filled car that I just got out of. Now I have contacted Hyundai and the car dealership about this car. The dealership tried a few things to get rid of the static but no results and Hyundai isn't standing beside their product and states there doesn't seem to be an issue with others reporting this problem. The dealership was nice enough to try and make sure my seats were grounded, and to add another ground wire to the underside of the car but the static still remains. So now I am back to square one. I tried to get them to buy the car back but of course they want to give me several thousands less than I am paying for it. So I am stuck with a static filled car and was looking for others that have this same problem and maybe they just haven't complained about it yet. It seems to affect females alot more due to the longer hair than men. So please if you have this issue please contact me or reply to this posting. BEWARE..............................
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Have you tried using a thimble on your finger? Touch it to metal first. And keep hand on metal door as you get out if possible. If you use your key you have to over-reach the plastic part.

    Is your skin dry? Use more moisturizer, that will help. And avoid synthetic clothes including underwear. Cottons and wools are better, altho I know many seem to be allergic to a pure wool. Also consider a seat cover. Of course though, avoid synthetic material. Some people's body make-up are more prone to static shock than others. But try to keep moisturized. That will help.

    If you have static trouble at home, they say having more plants helps keep humidity levels higher which naturally helps fend off static. Certain shoe sole material will exasperate the build up of static also. Make sure you discharge a shock before touching your PC, btw. Static shock may not have much amperage to it, but it is extremely high voltage, which has been known to zap PC components.

    The grd straps should work, providing they are attached to metal that is ultimately grounded to the chassis at some point. And of course they have to touch the ground in such a way that it is making contact. They wear down after a while and then don't reach.

    I'll bet your hair is very fine eh? Greasy hair resists static. Maybe wash it every other day in winter?

    Do you like your car in all other ways? Any troubles with it?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,906
    I get shocks all the time on my two cars (Sentra and Sonata) with cloth seats, especially in the dry weather in fall and winter. The cloth is quite different in both, but it's cloth (my clothes) rubbing on cloth (seats), and that is a recipe for static. And you said you bought the car in the fall. And do you live in the Dakotas? Pretty dry there, especially in fall and winter.

    There are good suggestions above. A few other things you could try are to use an anti-static spray on your driver's seat once in awhile to see if that helps. Also I find when I wear my leather jacket, it helps reduce static as it's no longer cloth-against-cloth. Finally, you might consider recovering the seats in leather (a little pricey, but has other benefits also such as the nice aroma) and next time you buy a car, get a leather interior vs. cloth. I have very little static issues if any in my 2004 Elantra, which has leather seats.
  • Good suggestions!

    The synthetic clothing vs cotton does make a big difference!
  • Thanks for taking the time to reply to my posting. Your suggestions are really good. I have tried the moisturizer both ways and didn't have very good results with that. I also have tried seat cover, which I through away because I thought they were the problem. I haven't ever had this problem with any cars that I have owned before. This one seems to be different for some reason. I'm not doing anything different than I did before I got this car. I have tried many many things so far and don't get very good results and it just absolutely drives me crazy driving down the road feeling all the static around me. I have even went as far as buying a new washer and dryer, thinking maybe mine wasn't doing it's job. I use 3 different static products plus the spray. The spray takes it away a little. I do not have an issue in my house with static, only when I get into my car. My hair is fine but I haven't had this issue in the past. Hyundai will not use the grd straps because they say it will make the car more susceptible to lighting hitting the car and frying the computer system. If I could just tame the static problem then the car would be great. I haven't had any other issues out of the car. But if I can't figure out how to solve this problem, I will soon be parking my 3 month old car for good and will be driving something different. Even if it is an older car. The static absolutely drives me bonkers to the point where I am ready to park this car. I shouldn't have too but it may be my only option until I can get these seats recovered. I do have a lady I am gonna talk to Monday about possibly recovering my seats but this angers me because if I would have known then I would have simply bought one with Leather seats. I believe it's a defect of the materials that Hyundai used for the seats. If I wanted a car that I was gonna have to customize it surely wouldn't have been an Elantra. I could have thought of many better cars for that....... I appreciate any and all feed back
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Your case has sorta piqued my interest as I hate getting stumped on something that there may be a logical explanation for, so I posted this question here:

    Mr_Shiftright, "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" #, 28 Dec 2003 2:14 pm

    Let's keep an eye on that thread in case we get some good info that might help.

    I'm posting the link so you may subscribe to that forum if you wish.
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,381
    Here's my 20+ year old tip for making your own anti-static spray: Put 1 ounce of liquid fabric softener into a 1 quart spray bottle. Add tap water to top it off. Spray seats as necessary. Bonus points for getting an interior that always smells good.

    I had a '93 Mazda MX-3 that had a plastic button on the door labeled "touch". All it did was discharge your static without shocking.

    You might also look into anti-static floor mats as an alternative. I don't know of any that are marketed as such, though. Premium mats like WeatherTech don't mention it, though being made of a form of rubber they may help.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
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