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2009 Mazda6



  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731

    Interesting name! I worked for a local weather team at our ABC affiliate for a while - big weather nerd here!

    Regarding pad-shift, I'm actually familiar with what the dealer was talking about. I have an '06 Accord, and my dad had an '03 and an '05 (all are basically the same design). When backing up, I hear a metallic "click" or "pop" noise when applying the brake. When applying the brake once moving forward again, you hear it "click" back into place. My dealer explained to me that this is a "floating caliper" design. While I don't understand the purpose, I do understand the method of how this works. Its almost like the adjustable wrench, that you can slide one way or another to make it open wider. Once it "pops" forward or backward, it doesn't do it again until you apply the brake while moving the other direction.

    I've got 53k miles on my '06 and have never had an issue with the brakes, despite the consistent "pop" in situations I've described. Odd, but never problematic; I have the original pads and rotors, and have never experienced problems when panic braking (using Anti-Lock and all). Don't worry too much about this; I'm not a Mazda guy, but I don't believe that the dealer is leading you astray - they just don't know how to describe it well; I doubt I made a whole lot of sense either!

    Hope you continue liking your 6; my girlfriend wants one in Sangria Red!
  • thegraduate,

    Thank you so much for your explanation of Pad Shift! I am relieved to hear that other cars do actually do this and that your brakes continued to work normally. I will be sure to pass along your description to my also-skeptical boyfriend and do some follow up research on the topic. I'll also try not to squint suspiciously at the service manager anymore. :)

    I hope your girlfriend gets her dream car! I have no regrets with mine. Thanks again!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I don't know how many other cars do this, but in the previous generation of Accord, I've never heard of issues coming from this. Sorry for butting in on the wrong brand of car's forum with my Honda story, everyone!

  • 626gt626gt Posts: 15
    600 miles on it. 2 days after delivery, driving on Rt1@ 40 mph in 4,5,or even 6th gear, light foot on pedal as in traffic. Engine will occasionally hesitate,skip a little. not a full sputter just enough hesitation to feel it in car. Also seems to happen more when cold and sometimes when cresting or entering a hill. I think it's either defect or design flaw in drive by wire/throttle. Mazda tech admits it's there but says it's within normal specs. Anyone else w/manual notice this or have issue?. another mazda owner had pedal replaced & noticed 95% improvement. So far dealer & mazda not offering to fix or even admit it's problem. Ruins a great driving car. & I've had 2 prior mazdas both w/ manuals - lasted 10+ each & over 115K miles on them so I'm used to clutch etc.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Could it be when the Air Conditioner compressor kicks on? I can feel it in both of my 4-cylinder Hondas. It isn't noticeable to most, but when cruising in higher gears at steady speeds, you'll notice a slight (VERY slight) loss of power and you can even see the tachometer drop a smidge as the additional load of the compressor drags down the engine speed for a split-second, before it balances back out.

    Just a thought.

    I'd try it with and without A/C on; see if it stops when the A/C isn't running. With a GT model I'm assuming you have Automatic Climate Control, which if like Honda, runs the A/C whether or not cool air is needed.

    I hope this is what you're feeling!


    Happy Hondaing Zoom Zoom! :D

  • I occasionally have the same problem. When it happens it occurs only once per day in the morning during the first 3 minutes of operation as I slowly accelerate. It would definetly bother me also if it happened all the time. There are so few manual transmission cars out there a tsb may be slow in coming and I hope your dealer figures it out. When you get an answer please post it.Good luck.
  • 626gt626gt Posts: 15
    Thanks for the insight folks. I can say it's not the AC as I've purposely shut the fan, ac etc. off to be sure. Also it does seem a little worse when outside temp low but it still happens through out the course of a drive and not just when engine or air temp are low.
  • I have an 09 mazda6 2.5, M that I've had for a little over a month. 1,600 miles on it now. I have a hesitation/miss/skip when cruising @35-50 mph. It is random and unpredictable. So far I have not been able to demonstrate it to the dealer- but they haven't really been trying very hard to find it either. I have put the car in the hands of an independent car-care professional so that I can get a verification that the problem exists. Add me to the list in case anyone figures this one out.
  • 626gt626gt Posts: 15
    I"ve noticed that mine seems to occur when starting to go up or starting to go down or cresting a hill. I'm going back to Mazda for a solution one more time before I go to other options. I'll let you know what I find out - please share your results as well.
  • Thanks for your reply, 626qt. I was trying to keep my first post uncomplicated- in addition to the noticable random hesitation at cruise I too also experience it when starting up- usually in 2nd or 3rd gear- when the clutch has been engaged fully and you just begin to depress the accerator. The only pattern that has held up is that if it doesn't happen on the first couple of start-ups in the morning it's probably not going to happen at cruise.
    Anyone else out there with this problem?
  • 626gt626gt Posts: 15
    I have posted this on several other Mazda forums to see if I was the only one with this issue. I'm starting to get some replies so I wonder if there is a bad component that's common in the various cars. Obviously this maybe a small # given sales and manuals in the sales totals but at some point this week I may connect with you via email to see if/how we can coordinate with others to present this to Mazda. I've had my car 2+ weeks and I can only remember one day when this was not an issue at some point in the day. (it happened to be a warm day close to 70 here in New England)
  • I've had my car for about 6 weeks now and cannot remember a day when the problem has not been an issue. I now have a letter from my mechanic verifying that the problem exists (remember that the dealer has not yet been able to demonstrate the problem). I also have a meeting with the Mazda district manager set for next week. You mentioned getting together via e-mail. I would like to do that because I would like to have as much supporting information as I can for that meeting. If you can access my e-mail please do so. Otherwise I have a secondary e-mail account that I can post- the world will be able to respond without messing up my primary mailbox.
  • 626gt626gt Posts: 15
    I sent you a message at your carspace email. I think you may need to add my carspace email address to your list of people who can email you and it should come through. I hope to have update from Mazda dealer later tomorrow after they have car for the day. I'm driving an 09 i Touring w/manual as my loaner to see if I experience it in this car as well. First drive from dealer to work - (car was a little warmed up) no hiccup. we'll see how it goes going home tonight and then tomorrow am.
  • Chris- I recieved your e-mail. sent you one and it was returned to me. I sent it to the carspace address. Maybe you need to add me to your list- or maybe I'm not doing something correctly. Bob
  • 626gt626gt Posts: 15
    Ok I reset my preferences/settings and whatever other dials and knobs so I think it's set to receive emails at my carspace email address from you.
  • Chris- I tried again- 2nd message was rejected. I'm sending to Since you are getting through to me do you want to send me your direct e-mail?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,025
    You can always edit your profile to make your address public. If you do so, only registered members (not visitors) can see it. You can always change it back after you've connected.


    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    I think the bad component is the air intake. Mazda engines use a lot of variable air intake and induction mechanisms and they are all located into the plastic air intake.
    I know it is a common problem on the Mazda 3 where their is a variable intake valve that starts rattling to the point where you think there is something wrong with the engine. But just disconnecting the intake valve actuator (power) makes the engine noise disappear.
    Basically in your case I think the hesitation is due to the air being cut off momentarily from the engine.
  • 626gt626gt Posts: 15

    Thanks for sharing, I'm passing along all these suggestions to my dealer & corporate mazda for them to check into.

  • 626gt626gt Posts: 15
    UPDATE - Mazda Regional rep was in town so dealer took my car for him to experience. After driving he agreed that my issue existed. Wonders if when my battery died (@ one week of ownership) it caused ECU to malfunction. He reflashed it last night and drove it 3 X this AM and could not replicate problem. I picked up car @ 4 this afternoon. I did not experience anything as I had in the past but one time I thought there was something but it was hard to say in brief drive around town. Car is idling at start up below 1k RPM when previously it was around or over 1500. I'll let you know more early next week. :confuse:
  • I am wondering if anyone has experienced any of the recent issues I am dealing with. With my 09 having less than 12k miles, I noticed that the rotors were pulsating. Today the dealer acknowledged the problem turned the rear rotors. I questioned if I would be charged if the rotors needed replacement prior to turning in the lease, and I of course received a non-answer. I received a semi-acknowledgement that although it is "uncommon" for the rotors to be turned so early, it is a "common" problem with Mazda and Volvo because their rotors are "soft." The second issue was with a horrible smell of mold coming from my vents. The claim was that "everything checked out fine," but it "could" be my pollen filter and they would be happy to change that for $80.00. I refused, they changed their tune, and did agree to replace for no cost. The third was the hesitation (4cyl auto) getting onto the highway and getting stuck btw 3rd and 4th gear where the RPM's would wind up to almost 6000 before changing gears. I got the "Yes, we have heard that but there are no TSBs issued for it." Anyone?
  • 626gt626gt Posts: 15
    Pats1fan - can't say I've had your particular issues thought you can see from my posts what my issues have been,

    Did the air filter solve the problem and if so track for how long it cures it. I don't think it should not mold up that much/fast unless there is a drain that's blocked?

    I've seen reference to air quality issues on some other forms and I think in Edmunds as well.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    Anyone with the 2.5 I4 is experiencing a knocking sound at idle?
    It is getting very annoying, I cannot pinpoint the cause. But it sounds like piston slap that never goes away after the car has warmed up. In fact as the rpms decrease it becomes more noticeable.
    Noise cannot be heared above 1500 rpm. but when idling it sounds like a VW diesel.
    I rented a Ford Fusion last week, which had the same 2.5L engine as mine, but the engine sounded smoother at idle and it was tuned differently at highway speeds turning at least 400 rpms less at cruising speed than the mazda 6. How could the 2 identical Mazda made engines behave differently. Is there a way I can make mine behave the same? I think lower rpm at cruising speed is a gas saver.
  • I rented a Ford Fusion last week, which had the same 2.5L engine as mine, but the engine sounded smoother at idle and it was tuned differently at highway speeds turning at least 400 rpms less at cruising speed than the mazda 6. How could the 2 identical Mazda made engines behave differently.

    Because they're "identical" in name only.

    The 2.5L are similar in structure, but are tuned differently. The ECMs and heads are different from Ford's, and Mazda tends to run their engines at a higher RPM at certain speeds, which IMO helps to stay within the power band when sudden acceleration is needed (to pass someone).

    It may make a slight difference in fuel economy, but IIRC it's negligible.
  • Chris- we're
    having connection issues again. Please check your carspace mailbox. I've sent you 2 e-mails from my carspace mailbox to yours.
  • 626gt626gt Posts: 15
    Hi Bob - try again - checked my email and there was nothing. I can tell you that after my reflash before Thanksgiving, I thought that all was set but today (rainy, windy, high humidity) I experienced it twice coming into work today. Makes me wonder if short in ECU was triggered by weather so that reflash was undone. Calling Mazda in a little while to let them know.
  • Chris- Pls check your preferences- am I still listed as a "friend"?
    To recap- I drove my car with the Mazda rep for 1-1/2 hours last monday. And, of course, the hesitation never occurred. That after happening 10+ times in the first mile of driving just a few days before. So- what they (Mazda) have agreed to do is to put a data recorder (black box) on my car. That's going to happen next Monday.
    Strange that a dead battery seems to be a common thread in both our cars.
  • 626gt626gt Posts: 15
    Bob - thanks for the update. I do have your carspace address listed as a friend so I'm going to clear my preferences and start over again.

    While I know that you & I had dead batteries - to my knowledge the loaner I drove did not have a dead battery and it had the same issue. Also my hockey teammate says his wifes car has a similar issue (though I have not experienced that myself). That and the fact that it happened 2x to me yesterday after the reflash means that there is more to this than it appers. I still think the drive by wire pedal sensor is too damm sensitive. I think what's happening is that at light throttle instead of being an analog/linear move from light to no throttle/off because it's digital, the sensor goes from on to off in an millisecond and it's you can't modulate that with your foot. Also since the electronics are so fast & on/off, they get ahead of the mechanics in the engine (valves/air intake etc. which open/close relatively more gradually) thus creating the conditions for the hiccup. I wish I had more mechanical training to get into the details.

    Yesterday one of the hiccups occur just as I lightly applied gas which again points me to the on/off. The car drives fine if I run and gun but unfortunately real life traffic does'nt allow me to drive like that all day (wish that it did!)

  • 626gt626gt Posts: 15
    Ok I sent you an email via carspace addresses @ 11:10am - let me know via forum if you got and try to reply to see if we can figure out the email issues. What's the latest on your black box saga. I need to flup with Mazda as I've heard nothing back from then on my last email.

    PS - did you get snow tires for your car and if so what did you get & how do you like them. I'm thinking about going to 16" on steel rims when I do.

  • Chris- Your messages are coming through to my carspace mailbox OK. But nothing that I do will get one through to yours. Host tells me that I can have my e-mail address visible to members only. So I have set up a sub-account on my real e-mail- it should be visible to you with this message. Pls e-mail me directly. Include your home state so that I can verify that it's you. Then I'll dump the sub-account so that I won't be getting e-mails from the world. I've got some stuff I want to share but don't want to publish it on the forum.
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