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Honda Odyssey Transmission Problems



  • tlw6tlw6 Posts: 16
    Hi, could I ask you two questions:

    you said "(put in 3 1/2 quarts, run it through all the gears, dump it out and do it again , and then again)" how many time did you do this in one service? is this equivalent to "power flush" it?

    2nd, "Magnefine inline filter," where did you buy it? is it easily understandable? Would a mechanic be able to know what to do if I show him your message? I am not capable to do this myself. Thanks.
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    Hi twl6
    I don;t think HOnda recommends a "power flush" for the Odys' In fact a lot of a/t owners dread the idea of disturbing all the built up gunk and varnish in the screens. The drain and re-fill system is a much less violent experience for your tranny. Costs a lot less too. This is one Honda service that anyone can easily do but if you have a guy with a lift I guess that's good too.

    I buy my Magnefine filters off eBay, look for the 3/8" ones. you cut the rubber hose "return line" under the air breather box and put the filter in that location. Under heavy use i.e high mileage people have opened them up and they seem to be good for a year or at least 25,000 miles. The first thing you notice after installing one is when you do a 'drain and fill', the Honda magnet on the drain plug will hardly have any debris stuck to it, so the Magnefine filter is doing is job well.
    BTW, the complete installation instructions are in the box.
  • tomcat7tomcat7 Posts: 5
    Our 03 never gave any tranny problems until Honda dealer overfilled the tranny at service interval and we got the flashing D alarm. Fearful of problems, after I found the level overfill by 1.5 inches, I had them drain the fluid so I could inspect it. There was no contamination and color was perfect. I then instructed them to flush with new fluid and refill to perscribed level. Never another alarm or problem. Ours had the Honda installed trailer hitch option that added the extra coolers. Sold at 145K with no problems but was serviced as per the manual. I believe the extra coolers and careful service is key. Do believe flush is not necessary as long as you look at the fluid being removed.
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    I never dreamed there would come a day when I said this but, my next Van will be a Chrysler Product.
    They built a/t stinkers for years too, but now are just a good as or better than any other VAn in that price range. I can get a Chrysler Town and Country for $10,000 or less than an Odyssey with a better warranty and reputation.

    I now see them everywhere on the road and in the warm sunny city where we spend the 5 months of winter.

    To be fair tho, I love the HOnda engine on my pressure washer!
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    So here's the thing...............................

    " Chrysler's first diesel engine will be a turbocharged 3.0-litre V6. The powerplant, jointly developed with Fiat, will reportedly make 241 horsepower and 406 pound-feet of torque. Currently mated to a five-speed automatic gearbox under the hood of the Jeep Grand Cherokee in other markets, the new oil-burner would deliver an fuel economy of about 10.2 L/100km (23 mpg) city and 7.1 L/100km (33 mpg) highway (the Cherokee's current gasoline-fed 3.6-litre V6, also mated to a five-speed, delivers 13.8 L/100km (17 mpg) city and 10.2 L/100km (23 mpg) highway).

    While the bad news is that the automaker is likely going to delay the launch of its diesel models until the 2014 model year to finish development on a new ZF-sourced eight-speed automatic (a gearbox that promises to deliver improved acceleration and even better fuel economy), the good news is that the automaker will shorten the 2013 model year to allow the 2014 models to arrive as early as January of next year."

    I have read the the new ZF a/t will be well worth waiting for and so will the 30 mpg highway.
  • samjisamji Posts: 4
    I have a 2005 Odyssey it has 86k and it just starting to slip between 1 and 2 or 3 to 2, any suggestions? I already did the transmission service but didn't help and now the check engine light came one.
  • vgervger Posts: 30
    Check what the code is. If it's PO740, your torque converter is not getting enough fluid pressure. Again my suggestion before wearing out your clutch plates is clean the two upper trans solenoid screens outside of the trans. Baby those shift points by giving little gas when slipping from gear to gear. The more it slips, the more wear from the clutch material, more debris, the more clogging. So try cleaning them asap.
  • samjisamji Posts: 4
    Thanx vger, yeah, i'll get check engine light checked and I know how to work on cars, is it a big job taking out the solenoid and what do I clean it with and do I have to get new gasket for it? thanx
  • samjisamji Posts: 4
    Also I forgot to mention and it's very important, when the van is cold i could drive it for at least one hour with no problem what so ever but after one hour of driving that's when it starts to slip or not engage in gear.
  • vgervger Posts: 30
    The job is not hard in itself, but some of the #10 bolts are hard to get at. First time I did it, it took me 4 hours to do it. With care, you can reuse gaskets and o-rings, but they're cheap buying new from dealer (less than $5.00, I recommend buying it for the Linear solenoid o-rings and paper gasket). Your Oddy is a later year than mine, so I'm not sure if the solenoids are at the same place. There are two solenoids, one called the Linear solenoid have six bolts holding it down ( on top of your tranny, below your radiator hose), the other is the shift solenoid and has 3 bolts holding it (below the base of the throttle intake), both have electrical p[ugs to disconnect. You need to take off the air filter and air intake and one end of the radiator hose (just move it out of the way, but find something to plug the other end to keep it from dripping). When you take out the linear soenoid you will see four removable tubes, there is one or two with different sizes, (one is a return tube with no screen) so don't mix them up. When you pull them out (careful not to nick or scratch them), at the end you will see metal screens, the second one is usually the one that gets clogged... air blow it clean. There are o-ring gaskets for each tube replace if you bought them. Clean the inside and if you have something to suck the passage ways where the tube goes in, I recommend it. "Rinse" the area with Honda Trans fluid. The other solenoid has three bolts, the last is the hardest to get at. You may have to unbolt some items (wire harness holder) that are in the way. When you take it out, you will see a rubber gasket with two screens... carefully pry the gasket out and blow clean the screen and replace(take care this is a $20.00 gasket). Put every thing back, say a prayer, and your tranny will be back to normal.
  • samjisamji Posts: 4
    Thank you vger, first thing i'm gonna do tomorrow is check to see what the code is and buy the gaskets and O rings more trans fluid, I have to start working on it before I do more or any damage to it, thanx again that's a lot of good information, I will let you know what the code is.
  • ramy1995ramy1995 Posts: 39
    hey buddy, you forgot most important part, what is the exact pray?

    on more serious note, do you know of any video or illustration of what you explained here.

    me: oddy, 2000, 150k
  • tlw6tlw6 Posts: 16
    Hi longo2, Thanks for the reply. I tend to agree that Honda does not recommend flushing the tranny. however, other messages state the other way-for example, msg #2240. what would you think of those?

    I ordered my Magnefine filter at ebay and is waiting for it to arrive. This is also not described in the manual. any idea as why wouldn't Honda add it?

    Thanks again.
  • ramy1995ramy1995 Posts: 39
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    edited July 2012
    I can only imagine that Honda has a legal reason for not mentioning anything that would increase the reliability of their transmission. If they did it would probably set off a legal fire storm of claims that Honda admits their filtration system is inadequate.
    I also think that the "Z1" Honda a/ fluid has never been up to the job and when Honda replaced it with the DW1 they did it in a very sneaky way.

    They never said that it was a more robust fluid, (even tho it is) never claimed it would solve any of the wear and tear of the trannys,(it probably will) or any mention it was an upgrade in any way except helping to increase mpg's at cold start up.
    Thereby negating any claims that they knew for years that the Z1 fluid was not up to the job.

    I know one re-builder that never replaces the Honda Z1 OEM fluid in his re-builds, and he has a 5 year warranty on his transmissions.

    There are other car companies that create propraitary products as well tho so Honda is not alone on this one

    The Odyssey and other Acura/Honda transmissions are a multi million dollar headache for Honda and their legal department is very aware of the consequences of the company doing anything except swapping them out with re-builds with no modifications that could be proved in court that they admitted to the design flaws.
    In fact my local dealer has said that their shop will not do ANY work on them except swap them out for the re-build.

    ( BTW when they do they add an extra filter to help the POS re-build survive until the warranty is up.)
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    edited July 2012
    Hi ramy,

    I don't know about "Magnifilter" might be a different brand (or a typo?)

    but here's a link to Youtube that I got a kick out of....

    (Don't miss "Part 2) the same guy takes the filter off after less than 700 miles and you will see all the metal sludge it's picked up...don't forget that your a/t also produces other nasty things like clutch wear, aluminum, and dirt that the paper filter catches, the magnet traps the iron bits.

    BTW you don't have to cut them up...a big pair of waterpump pliers will turn off the intake end of the filter housing. It's designed to be taken apart by unscrewing the housing.
  • tlw6tlw6 Posts: 16
    Hi longo2,

    Thanks again for the good info... Just so that it is clear what I need to do, when you said ‘BTW you don't have to cut them up...’ were you or were you not referring to what you said in msg #2244: ‘ cut the rubber hose "return line" under the air breather box and put the filter in that location.’

    If you were, are you now advising, instead, use waterpump plier to ‘turn off the intake end of the filter housing’? do you mean the Magnefilter housing?
  • ramy1995ramy1995 Posts: 39
    Here are some pictures i took when i was doing the job that you described above, i took off the linear seloid and cleaned it, but i was confused when it came to shift selnoid> I was not sure which one you meant since you said it has 3 number 10 bolts, the one i saw on my 2000 ody, has 2 bolts, i did not take it off , thought of sending you the pictures to help me n me help others
    ( question is: are pictures postabale here? )

    i guess not, :mad: ">
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 25,722
    you can't paste pictures in. You have to host them someplace (flickr or snapfish say) and then link to them (you can paste in the URL and they will display)

    2018 Hyundai Elantra Sport (mine), 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's) and 2015 Jetta Sport (daughter's)

  • ramy1995ramy1995 Posts: 39
    thanks , how do u url it, without posting in host , if possible, ?
    can u do that with utube, still pictures we are talking here.
  • ramy1995ramy1995 Posts: 39
    i guess i found my answer, no pictures , sucks..
    i will try to shoot video tomoro , n post it to utube, then post it here, 2 sucks

    if someone see this, let me know if it works​HONDA-ACCORD-ODYSSEY-ACURA-CL-T​L-V6-A-T-Sh- ift-Control-Solenoi​d-A-B-ASSEMBLY-/​320932985063?hash=item4ab918b8e- ​7&item=320932985063&pt=Motors_​Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vx&#8203- ;p=mtr
  • jea3cdjea3cd Posts: 1
    I should have known better as well. After our Pontiac Montana started having problems with over heating at 197,000 miles, we traded it in on a Honda Ody because everyone claimed how good they were. Worst mistake we ever made. After a year the transmission has lost all forward gears but 1st. Honda wanted about $4500 for a reman trans. We took it to a transmission shop for half the price, but they also said the Odyssey was the most common transmission they work on, bar none. The Odyssey has 52k less miles than our Pontiac had when it had problems. Difference is, I could change the entire drivetrain in the Pontiac for about the same price of a Honda trans.

    I'll be going back to GM, Ford or Dodge.
  • ramy1995ramy1995 Posts: 39
    thanks a lot for the person here who explained how to clean the linear and shift selonoid, my transmission almost normal after i gave up on everything. I had this sliping, and disengaging, and kicking, and sliding for over two yrs, and 2 visit the best tranny shop in area, and everyone says: you need tran overhaul, your tranny is dead. least price, was 3200 dollars , i fixed it by myslf, and i m not a mechanic for 0 dollars.
    i read here , cant remember the name, about cleaning the selonoid screens, i was really doubtfull, but i did it, and it is not a picnic for first timers, like me, but i did it, with 105 degrees tempreture, n lots of sweat, i could not believe my eyes n feet,, the ody 2000, with 155k, ran so smooth, that i was really ecctatic.
    it took me 4 hours, and no parts changed at all, only cleaning the screens and put back together , and voillla, car runs 90% better,
    only mistake that i did , is not to replace old atf b4 the fix, because some of old dirt maybe went back n clogged some of screens holes. so learn from my mistakes.
    i really doubt that there is anything wrong by design in trans itslf, and all it takes is some cleanning to those selonoids,
    i think dealers and tran shops have known that for long time, and instead of charging cpl hours of work to fix ur tran for another 50k miles, they want you to shed 4000 dollars, as ethics are optional in this profession as ever.
    if you need help, i took some pictures in process of working , i can share with you, or better if you live in my area, northern va, i can do it for you for a lot less than new tran :)))))
  • autowriteautowrite Posts: 226
    Was this a used Odyssey & if so what year was it? I believe a new one would have enough warranty on it to cover no cost repairs. If I did not want to stay with Honda I'd go with Toyota. Fod does not have a minivan. Ford's Windstar's transmiision were guaranteed to go at 104.000 kms.
  • bayhookerbayhooker Posts: 1

    I have a 2008 Odyssey EX-L with about 60k on it. The van seems to stutter at highway speeds usually 60mph. I have read many of the other post but am getting confused. Is this a transmission problem or motor mount issue? It is a certified pre-owned van from Honda and we picked up the Platinum Bumper to Bumper warranty as well. Worst case scenario is the Tranny will need to be replaced??? If so will it be covered under warranty 100%?

    Thanks for the help,
  • autowriteautowrite Posts: 226
    Is the Platinum warrenty from Honda or an after-market warranty house? Did the warranty include the Power Train? If it included the Power Train and you got 100,000 warranty time period you should not have to pay to replace it.
    On my transmission replacement, in 2007, I wrote Honda and in the meantime paid the full amount of CN$4,200. They refunded half. I had 184,000kms on it and my warranty was for 160,000kms. Had it happen up to 160,000kms it would have been 'no charge'.
    I currently have 307,000kms on my 2002.
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