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Mitsubishi Montero



  • regalaregala Posts: 45
    I tried doing the slap thing. Didn't work for me. Must be the light is really busted. Oh well, must be a weekend project for me taking the dash apart.
  • gtroopgtroop Posts: 85
    My light (left rear) was not working for a few weeks. Then one day I got in, started it up, and it was working again. Mine is a 01 Ltd with 48K.

    I am having the tires replaced today. We were going to replace them in October anyway, but I picked up a nail in the right rear last night. After some research I decided to go with Firestone Destination LE's. I got to the Firestone dealer and he showed me the Destination A/T's that he just got in. He mentioned that no one in town had installed a set yet and that he would sell them to me at the same price as the LE's. So I am going with the A/T's. Firestone has a 30 day test drive on their tires so if I don't like them I can go back in a couple of weeks and swap them for the LE's. I hope they aren't too loud.
  • sbeachsbeach Posts: 15
    Thought I would update for anyone interested what I found out about transmission fluid change. Took my 2002 in to the dealer for a small leak underneath the vehicle. I thought it might be the freewheel switch but they said it was not leaking. They said the fluid was coming from the transfer case and is caused by a protective spray film that is added to the vehicle I guess to help prevent rust. This seemed kind of suspicious so I took to another garage where once up on a lift I definitely could see a clear fluid coming from the top of the transfer case. I think it is coming from above the electronic switch (?) that is bolted to the transfer case. Has anyone had a problem with a leak from this area. I will check to see if my transfer case fluid level is ok or is low. If low that would definitely point to a leak.

    I also talked to the dealer about a transmission fluid change. This is what he said. They recommend a fluid drain every 15 K and a complete fluid blow out every 60 K. If you follow this procedure you do not have to change the transmission filter. If you do not follow this procedure they strongly suggest changing the transmission filter at 60 K before it gets clogged. Also, he said to use Mitsubishi transmission fluid and not another brand because the Mitsu fluid has extra additives. He said other brands can be used for the differential fluid and for the transfer case but should not be used for the transmission.
  • viet3viet3 Posts: 8
    I posted before about both of the front and back diff's oil was in bad shape at 27k miles. I changed the gear oil, drive for about 1500 miles and now the fluid is in bad shape again. Anyone changed the differential fluid yet and how was the condition?
  • sbeachsbeach Posts: 15
    I was going to change until I talked to the dealership. Even though the manual says to change at 30 K he said they do not recommend changing until 45-60 K unless you do a lot of off road driving so your situation sounds like it might need some looking into. Could it be the type of fluid used? I would use a high quality GL-5 liquid, no sense trying to save a few bucks here since the problems associated with differentials are not cheap to repair. I have checked the level of the differential fluid and have not noted anything suspicious with the fluid on my finger but then metal flakes are probably at the bottom of the fluid level and not on top. But the color was ok and did not look like it was burnt.
  • viet3viet3 Posts: 8
    Thanks for the reply. I did not use cheap fluid. I used state lube GL5. Gear oil does not goes bad easily, and normally will retains viscosity and color over a long time. Mine changed color to a green shade at just after 1500 miles and the diff is clunking if I step on the gas. Oviously something is wrong with my car. Oh well, another fight with dealer coming up. I am pretty sure they will say nothing is wrong!
  • sbeachsbeach Posts: 15
    With all your problems I decided to go ahead and change the diff fluid even though the dealer said I did not have to for another 15 K. The drain plug makes it so easy to change and it is so inexpensive I wanted to know how my gears were wearing. When you say your fluid has changed color does it sell burnt? I really would not worry about the color unless the fluid has a burnt smell. I always worry about smell more than color. Also, what is on your magnets? I always take the sludge on the magnets and clean it with gum out or some such cleaner. Take a look at the metal shavings. Is it normal wear (small, smooth shavings) or are the shavings larger and angular which would mean something is binding in the gears. Even so, with the noise you say you have I would definitely take it to someone for a look.

    Do you have the same color for both front and back differentials? If so that is kind of strange. I did notice that the color of my front diff fluid was a darker color than the rear but both smelled fine. I would have anticipated that the rear should have been darker than the front since I only use my 4-wheel drive about once a week.

    Hope this info helps.
  • viet3viet3 Posts: 8
    I am not so sure that the gear oil smell burned because itself has a strong odor. The metal shavings are supended in the fluid and the magnetic drain plugs is full of metal shaving. I worry about the color because this is just like when I set up my gear for my Mustang (wrong set up). After one week of driving the fluid viscosity is reduced and color became more "green" then gold. I have many cars with over 100k miles and diff fluid will just turns slightly darker gold instead of green. A small amount of shavings will present at the magnetic but fluid should be clean. My current Subaru WRX with 36K miles rear diff oil is 100% better then the Montero.
    The Montero front dif is wrost then the rear on mine. And yes the metal shaving is like you described. I am trying to find a place to perform gear oil analysis before I take this to the dealer.
    I have a feeling that something is wrong with the Montero gear set up and many of us will be in a supprised by the replacement cost when this vehicle gets older.
  • mp19fanmp19fan Posts: 102
    I have a 2001 LTD with about 47k miles on it. At around 40k the light went one. Took it into the dealer, they found an O2 sensor bad. Picked it up a day later, light still on. They said they reset it. Left it there and they said they found another one bad, fixed. That was about 6 months ago. Last week I took it in for an oil change. The next day the light came on again. They said it coudn't have been anything they did, as all they do is change the oil and filter. Since I'm out of warranty, I'd hate to pay the $90 they charge for a diagnostic. Do they have an obligation to check it w/o charge? Any other ideas to bounce off the service advisor, or do I have to bite the bullet and take it in? BTW it runs just fine.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Lots of auto parts stores will read codes for free now and tell you what the code says. Most of them will reset the light for you too.

    Steve, Host
  • bldrbldr Posts: 11
    There is a TSB for this problem

    Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0125 Set

    No.: TSB-03-13-001

    DATE: January, 2003

    MODEL: See below



    Incorrect PCM software parameters may cause the MIL ("SERVICE ENGINE SOON") light to come on and Diagnostic Trouble Code P0125 to set. This typically occurs with no driveability concerns. To eliminate this condition, reprogram the PCM as described in this bulletin.

    For only 2001 Montero vehicles, replace the oxygen sensors after reprogramming the PCM. (See Step 19 in this bulletin.)

    2001-2002 Montero
  • phonosphonos Posts: 206
    Is there an on-line index to the TSBs somewheres?

    Seems like someone posted it or a link to it a long while ago?

    Thanks, in advance.

  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    The NHTSA has one ( as do we:

    Edmunds Maintenance Guide

    Full text is available through, and your local library may subscribe to it.

    Steve, Host
  • bldrbldr Posts: 11
    I subscribe to Alldata and get full text and diagrams. I had this problem on my 01. Reprograming was under emissions warranty. The oxygen sensors were not. $808.00. Doesnt, seem fair to me as it what their fault the computer was wrong.
  • phonosphonos Posts: 206
    Thanks, Steve.
  • sdickssdicks Posts: 5
    Been reading the messages. Seems I have had more problems than most. 2001 Montero LTD. 50,000 miles.
    Here is the list:
    D(drive) idicator light went out.
    Center diff Light stuck on, said it was something in the trans.
    Power Antenna broke.
    Brakes at 40,000 miles

    Here is a good one, after a rainy night I went to get in the vehicle and I heard the radio making noise. I wasn't even in it. Seems the amp was floating in water. It is located in the back right wheel well.
    The dealership took it to a glass place to reseal the window. Replaced the fried amp.

    Just a few months afterwards , same thing. Another fix by the window place and another new amp.

    Here is what I found out today. Rust under the rear seaL of the back door. You will have to look under the seal at the spot welds. Each one was rusting. Body shop guy said he never has seen that before. I have heard that every time. I am stuck in a lease upside down. What can I do to get rid of this? The body shop guy didn't think this was an easy fix. Need to hear from the Dealership. Do I have any options?
  • sdickssdicks Posts: 5
    One of the plastic screws that holds on the spare tire cover broke. The only way to replace is to replace cover $300. Also the spare tire cover has problems. The thin clear membrane covering the black cover is holding water and cracking. I guess that would be fixed if I replaced the whole thing.
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    You're leasing and are worried about rust, broken screws and cracking? Even if you owned it, the Montero comes with the 7-year/100,000-mile Anti-Corrosion/Perforation Limited Warranty which would at least take care of your most serious problem, so what are you talking about?
  • sbeachsbeach Posts: 15
    Other than the leak and the amp most of your problems are cosmetic. While they still should not happen I have friends with other makes of cars and SUV's that have much more serious problems.

    The wheel cover needs to be fixed. Mine did the same thing and I took it back. They replaced for free. You have to be very careful with it when you take off the spare as to not crack the finishing material on the outside. My model (2002) has replaceable screws for the cover. My suggestion is to get one of these replaceable screws and use on your cover. I have looked at both covers and know that they will work. As for the brakes they are right on for needing replacement depending on how you drive. Most should be replaced before 40K.

    Not sure of the leasing laws of the state that you live in but you may have an out if they can not fix the window problem to your satisfaction. Is there something like the lemon law for leasing? May need a legal opinion. Worth a try.
  • sdickssdicks Posts: 5
    I am suppose to get a response from the dealership soon to address the rust and the tire cover. I will check the lemon laws for Indiana. Thanks for the reply. I will post the response I get.
  • sdickssdicks Posts: 5
    I am use to Hondas that don't have these little things continue to happen. Honestly for what it cost for me to lease, I don't expect these type of problems to continually happen. I am very interested in hearing the response from the dealership and Manufacturer rep. I know it could be worse.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Honestly for what it cost for me to lease, I don't expect these type of problems to continually happen.

    It would seem to me that the more expensive the vehicle the more complex it is and I would expect more problems! There are simply more things that can go wrong with a complicated device. This is just a general observation and, no, I am not saying your complaints are without merit.

    tidester, host
  • softhds1softhds1 Posts: 26
    I had the same problem with the radio in mt 2001. Never did solve it, it would go away after a dry day and only occured in major rain, I replaced my 2001 with a 2003 and have not had the problem. Brakes were replaced at 20,000 miles, it is a very heavy car, tires at 38,000. It is a great car and all the things were minor
  • bldrbldr Posts: 11
    Audio System - Static/Popping/Poor Sound/Distortion
    No: TSB-04-54-002
    DATE: February, 2004
    MODEL: All



    This bulletin contains troubleshooting steps for diagnosing various customer complaints relating to the audio system speakers in Mitsubishi vehicles.



    You may receive customer complaints about abnormal noise from the audio system speakers. These can be described as any of the following:

    ^ Static
    ^ Popping
    ^ Crackle
    ^ Buzzing
    ^ Rattle
    ^ Distorted sound
    ^ Poor sound quality
    ^ No sound (speaker inoperative)
  • kkics, where are you located? the dealer near me on the central coast of ca. has two 2003 models left. He took off $10,000 over the phone without any haggling at all. I think I may go in this weekend and see how low he will go. If you are anywhere near me it may help to check out another dealer with 2003 left overs.
  • mp19fanmp19fan Posts: 102
    I first took my car in at 40k miles for the CEL. Since I was over the 3/36k, they said the o2 sensor wasn't covered. I told them it's covered under the 4/50k emissions. They checked and then covered it under warranty.

    As a side note, the check engine light went off after about a week of driving. I guess it was a loose gas cap.
  • mp19fanmp19fan Posts: 102
    Should I go back to the original Yoko Geo's? I've been riding on Geo AT2 and I hate them. Way too loud (I've had Dueler and Wrangler A/T and never this loud) and droning at highway speeds. Had them re-balanced twice and the steering wheel still vibrates. It seems to be very sensitive to road surface conditions, vibrating more on certain roads, less on others. Still with plenty of tread left, even after 25k miles, but I'm getting tired of the noise and vibration. Any suggestions?
  • phonosphonos Posts: 206
    Unless someone has a better idea, I'd say you're going to have to go to an H/T tire. I don't know of any A/T that isn't going to cause some vibration and be somewhat noisy.

    See if a dealer will let you try out a set of BFG AT KO's for a couple of days. You may like the Geolanders a whole lot better then.

    Have you tried increasing the tire pressure to something close to the maximum stamped on the tire? Sometimes that will help on the highway. Then, if it rides too hard, keep reducing pressures by, say, 5 psig in increments until it gets too noisy or vibrates too much for you.
  • I have been using the Bridgestone AT Revos and if you looked way way back when I posted on this you will find that I just love them.

    Quiter than the stock Geolanders and way better. My dad just put them on his Jeep GC and he loves them. I went with the 6 ply which are a tad larger than stock so the speedometer is off a couple of miles per hour and my Dad went with the standard 4 ply.

    Just so you know the OEM tires always are crappy. Even the OEM geolanders and aftermarker geolanders are very different eventhough they seem to be the same tire.

    A guy at the tire rack said they cut both tires and the OEM flopped down while the aftermarket stood up on its own. It seems the OEM are cheeper made and have very soft sidewalls.

    With the Montero being on the heavy side I thought a 6 ply would be nice and it has been but I would not hesitate to run a 4 ply.
  • I was going to suggest tire cutting but I think brillmtb2 already brought it up. I have never had my tires cut but it reportedly makes for a much smoother and quieter ride. It is also supposed to give you more miles per tire (the guy I talked to said a minimum of 10% more). Can anybody support these claims? If so I might try on my next tires.
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