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Comments
Any help is appreciated. I'm afraid the dealer will just want to reset the lamp again when I return to have this looked at.
Thanks,
Nateman7
DESCRIPTION:
This bulletin provides information regarding electromagnetic interference with the Tire
Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS).
The TPMS malfunction indicator lamp may be illuminated if the vehicle is moving
around electric power supply cables or radio transmitters at police stations, government
and public offices, broadcasting stations, military installations, airports, transmitting
towers, etc. The TPMS malfunction indicator lamp generally turns off after the vehicle is
removed from such interferences.
DIAGNOSIS:
If the TPMS indicator lamp is ON, and all four wheel sensors are checked and are
working correctly, external electronic devices connected to the vehicle's power outlets
(notebook computer, seat warmer, massager, coolers, etc.) may be the cause of this
condition.
ACTION:
Please request the customer to not operate external electronic devices that cause this
condition.
I do have a universal charger from Igo that I have plugged in. I'll try removing it and see if it goes away. I'll also double check the actual pressure in the tires.
Thanks and I'll keep you posted.
Nateman7
DESCRIPTION:
If a customer comments that the TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) tire pressure
warning lamp is "ON" for the first few miles of driving after a cold start or stays "ON"
continuously, particularly in cold ambient, please be sure to inform the customer that
the system is operating correctly to warn of a low tire pressure condition, and a
system diagnosis may not be required. The customer should be made aware of the
following:
• This condition may be caused by low tire pressure if the tire pressure falls below
the low warning threshold for any reason including low temperature effects.
NOTE: For vehicles equipped with the TPMS, the threshold pressure limit is 25%
below the vehicle's recommended cold tire pressure, shown on the
placard located on the driver side B-pillar.
• Recommend to the customer to inflate tires when they are cold (if possible) or
compensate for being hot by setting 3 to 4 psi above specification.
NOTE: The tire pressure will vary with temperature by about 1 psi (6.9 kPa) for
every 12°F (6.5°C).
• Recommend to the customer to check and adjust all wheels' tire pressures,
including the spare tire, once a month. (For additional information, request the
customer to refer to the vehicle owner's manual).
Will advise if I find anything further.
Nateman7
I have a Sirius Sat radio connected and haven't had a problem.
You mention you are running a Sirius. I too am a subscriber, and am not sure what I'm going to do here. I don't like the way XM has their stations named--it makes no sense to me the difference between Fred and Ethel. I'm hoping they will merge and provide one block of solid, good programming and the receivers will become universal. So far, I haven't been asked my opinion, though. :shades:
I don't like XM either, but I do like a couple of their stations. I too and looking forward to the possible merger. I would love to add those two stations on XM that I like and get NHL back. Though my life will go on if they don't merge....lol
If there is an inherent issue, it would be dumb for them to replace the switch with the same one...SAFETY ISSUES COST BIG TIME FOR A MANUFACTURER! Not to mention possible liability issues if they know and do nothing about a badly engineered part.
Please keep us posted. Lets hope that the delay is due to a newly designed part.
TIA
The shifting feels much smoother but could be my imagination. All covered under warranty. I crawled under the front end to inspect everything and they mechanic did a good job of wiping down everything so barely a sign of trans oil down there.
I am preparing to write a letter to Customer Relations about my concerns and see what they reply with.
It is interesting that the tranny had to come from Korea since they have the US plant in Alabama....oh the world of corporate decision making and policies...Hopefully you can now get on with enjoying your SF.
Side note: just returned from a rather upscale party...lots of lexus, mercedes, and acuras there. My SF was the center of attention and the general remarks were "what is that" looks nice. When I said Hyundai...there was a lot of jaw dropping!!!! When i told one guy who asked...how much...I thought he was going into cardiac arrest! :shades: a good feeling was had by me!
Was your noise a whine from 35 mph to 45 mph and if you slow down it was an old truck winding down. after 45 mph it all blended in but the radio had to be turned up as you go faster.
In the winter BETCHA it cools down fast! Also if it smells bad that will also gradually go away too...it is some type of protectant they use on the engine that TAKES A WHILE TO BURN AWAY! major el stinko!!!!
ENJOY..you will love it
I am no mechanic but do many of the basic maintenance work on my cars and know enough what goes on when something just is not right. The sound was coming from either the engine or trans based on the gear-like noise it was making. If you can remember many years back, guys with the old hot rods that messed around with their gears, their cars always had this gear whining noise. Actually pleasant to the ears of those who apprecaited it back then. But anyways, I can't really describe it but as you pick up rpm on the Santa Fe, it got noticeable around 25mph and got louder as you went faster. The only obvious component was the tranny which the service dept guys pinpointed it to also.
They then told me that they confirmed the location of the noise and Hyundai USA authorized replacement of the entire trans rather than tear it down and search for the problem. That was all good by me. By the way, the trans was shipped in from the mainland not Korea. Took almost week and a half to get here.
After two days, I truly appreciate not having to hear the noise and the car feels like it is running smoother too. Almost like if you had respiratory problems and have a wheeze then after treatment, you can breathe easier again. Will see if the fix improves my mpg to a more respectable number than 13-15mpg. I have strong feelings that somehow the tranny problem had some bearing on my low mileage even after 4,000 miles.
Happy driving all!
A bit off topic but as it gets colder outside and you begin your driving day, a lot of folks (including me) have noticed a hesitancy in the transmission shifting during a cold take off. This is apparently a normal reaction to the engine/tranny, reaching operating temp. had me concerned a little when i bought it in the winter but it is apparently quite normal as well
One thing I definitely noticed watching the trip computer, is that gas mileage is WAY DOWN until the engine reaches proper temps....Just anticipating some questions you may experience as we change temps on the way to winter!
Again, enjoy it and not to worry...That warranty and this forum were major factors in even getting me to a hyundai dealer in the first place...glad I did so far!!
I shopped pretty carefully, and the Hyundai SF just seems to give you more bang for the buck compared to honda, toyota and nissan. Hyundai learned very quickly and the SF and Sonata at least, show it! I have had almost all of them inc Mini and BMW...so far my SF is the least problematic of all of the new ones especially considering the new platform it sits on. I usually wait a couple of years when they chg platforms, engines etc, but for some reason, after driving it a few times... I just wrote a check. I will admit that the GLS w/ 2.7l engine just did not do it for me considering the relatively minor premium you gave for the SE engine and goodies that came with it!!!
Only suggestion is make sure your fluid (brake, coolant, oil, tire pressure etc) are at proper levels like any other car, do regular required service (suggest you stay away from the "added: not required service items they usually try to sell you" and be happy you got one of the best warranties in the business that i can see. DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND KEEP AWAY FROM THOSE JIFFY LUBE TYPE PLACES...they don't have the Oil filters yet anyway) for the few $$ you may save, it will come back to haunt you IMHO! At $30-32 per chg...you are not being raped like alot of the other maint items and if anything happens regarding a lube issue...you have the ammo! (I never said that before since dealer oil changes usually were a bunch and I like the idea of doing it myself to insure it was done properly.
many people that have problems that are not repaired properly have poor dealers. With all the computers in autos today...it is amazing they run at all!
IMHO, Also it pays to establish a good relationship with the service dept, and for $30 I even have them chg my oil since it keeps them happy...used to do it all myself....Now just sit back and enjoy...NO REGRETS! There are always problems with cars today so just relax and drive your socks off...5 yr Roadside assistance gives you peace of mind anyway!
BTW, my husband noticed that if you tilt the end of the nozzle down, it seem to fill up much better. Hope this helps.
Anybody care to share what they have done?
FOR THE ULTIMATE IN LEATHER conditioner (Rolls Royce recommends) Connolly Hide Food conditioner...a bit pricey but you wanted the best!
You may find it cheaper, but this is the stuff....
http://www.autogeek.net/conhid.html?gclid=CJK_v8Knv44CFQqgYgodRHpSxQ
Actually the trick is to keep the leather clean , protected from UV and conditioned (moist)
Does anyone know which one (if either) have hydraulic valve lifters, rather than solid lifters?
Link to product used:
http://www.meguiars.com/?automotive-leather-care/Gold-Class-Rich-Leather-Spray
Thanks in advance for your help. I love this forum!
Waxing for dummies...any of the better quality cleaner waxes AFTER A GOOD WASH. like mequires, mother's etc will do fine.
Most of the swirl marks, fine scratches etc, you find in autos today were put there by well intentioned Washers using the wrong materials, dirty water etc...This a a HUGE topic...best to Google it. IMHO micro wipes are the greatest things since sliced bread!
Waxing is the easy part, but hard physical work. The biggest decision on waxing is whether to use a cleaner wax, pure carnuba wax, or synthetic. I only wax 2 times a year, but use a porter cable dual random action polisher to get the wax off!...I am getting too old for this stuff. Must admit waxing for me today is more a matter of paint protection against the damaging elements...
klik
As for waxing, I've had great success with Meguiar's NXT. I use a damp microfiber-covered sponge (one of the round ones) to apply the wax and a clean microfiber cloth to remove it. Be sure to keep the sponge damp and do only a section at a time. My "sections" are 1/4 of the hood, 1/2 of a bumper, 1 front or rear fender, 1/2 of a door, 1/4 of the roof.
Follow these procedures and your car will look great. It will also be one of only a very few on the road with no spiderwebs or swirls.
Never wash the car in direct sunlight.
Wash wheels, tires, and inside wheel wells first; a bucket of plain warm water with liquid dish soap is fine.
After washing the above areas and before starting on the rest of the car, dump the leftover warm soapy water, rinse the bucket thoroughly, and refill with warm clear water. Use this for rinsing your washing cloth between car sections.
For washing the car, use a clean microfiber cloth only. This will ensure that you don't put any spiderwebs or swirls into your new car's finish.
Before washing each section, rinse off surface dirt and dust thoroughly using the clear water setting on the Mr. Clean.
Wash and rinse just a section at a time, starting with the roof, then the hood, front grill & bumper, windows, fenders, doors, and rear hatch. It's basically "start at the top and work your way down".
After you've washed and rinsed the entire car (a section at a time), give it a final thorough rinse with clear water (through the Mr. Clean) to be sure there's no remaining soap.
After that rinse, go ahead and "paint" the entire car (top to bottom) with deionized water from Mr. Clean (exactly per the instructions).
At this point I usually blow off most of the water with an electric leaf blower although it's definitely not required. As long as the car isn't in direct sunlight it should air dry just fine with no spots.
Hope this helps. Please let us know your results!
- Mike
Now I need to work on protecting the leather and I should be good to go.
I'm LOVING my new Santy, even more than I loved my 2001 Santy!
http://www.officialhyundaiwarranty.com/plans.asp?miles=0-5&year=2007&model=Santa- _Fe&state=TX
One of my concerns is that the warranty is "accepted at Hyundai dealerships in the USA." What if I break down somewhere and there is no Hyundai dealership? Is there a better plan out there that covers repairs by any repair shop? Am I better off with a Hyundai warranty?
Just FYI, we typically keep our vehicles for 9-10 years, and I always worry about repairs after the initial bumper to bumper factory warranty is up. We just sold our 1998 van and had a $1200 body control module replaced shortly beforehand. Just that one component alone would have paid for an extended plan.
Thanks for any opinions and suggestions!