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Villager/Quest Knock Sensor



  • So i am fixing a friends nisan quest 2002. the codes that came up where the bank 1 sensor 1 trouble code and the knock sensor code P0325 and so i changed the O2 sensor and the code went away but the knock sensor code is still there although my friend asked me to help him change the knock sensor so i did help him, the issue is the code keeps coming on ( knock sensor) and the car has a rough idle especially in drive or reverse as if it wants to turn off and sometimes it does. no other codes come up besides the knock sensor. when we changed the knock sensor we vmade sure we bought the gaskets for the intake. the only gasket not changed was the one for the throttle but the gasket looked fine. please help thank you.
  • Hello I´ve got the same problem in my '95 Villager GS, there is a coolant line under the intake manifold, wich has a kit of 7.9mm hoses. One of them just got baked due high temperature and cracked eventually.
    My car was consuming coolant (because of the leak) and the hot leaking coolant damaged the knock sensor which is located under the admission manifold.. Check for error codes if "check engine" light on, it might be ks sensor..
  • ctankobuctankobu Posts: 7
    edited January 2014

    Have a 97 Villager, and managed to relocate a new knock sensor to the top of the intake manifold. Replacing the factory knock sensor would take 10 hours of shop time. My method took less than an hour. You need to figure out which cable harness and the correct pinout on the harness to run your splice to. The Haynes manual sort of shows where the harness is located at. NOTE: This is for the 97 Villager model. This may work with the 96 - 98 models where the pinouts from the engine control module are supposedly the same. But you may have to confirm this. My knock sensor code P0325 code didn't appear afterwards. The knock sensor, if relocated properly, will pick up an engine knock if mounted properly with 18 - 25 ft-lbs. I did pick up mis-fire codes on an unrelated issue....but fixed that with new wires, distributor, and power transistor.

    The Haynes manual has a lousy picture and it's hard to figure out which is the knock sensor sub-harness. On the 97 Villager there are 3 sub-harnesses near the passenger side of the intake manifold. The knock sensor wire is located in one of the smaller sub-harnesses on right side next to manifold. It's usually the WHITE wire that leads to the knock sensor. Trace that wire to the Engine Control Module. Mine traced out to pinout #30 on the ECM. I split open the wire harness and cut the WHITE wire on the side that leads back under the intake manifold. I spliced in the NEW knock sensor with the WHITE wire, and the other wire to GROUND. According to an earlier post.... "B" goes to GROUND...Refer to Autozone diagram or Haynes diagram to figure which of the 2 wires goes to ground. Note: the 95 and 98 models have a different harness that the 96 & 97. But the repair should be the same. After 98, the sub-harness could be somewhere else....and I haven't researched beyond that. I spent about $12 bucks on a knock sensor, and $7 on a new knock sensor harness. Good luck.

  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    edited April 2014

    Just remember that the van throwing a knock sensor code doesn't necessarily mean the sensor itself is bad.

  • vroncvronc Posts: 1

    **It's not the Knock sensors!!! **Hey everyone that's having problems with their knock sensor. I have a 2002 MercuryVillager, and I kept getting readings on the knock sensor. I could not pass emmissions. Replaced o2 sensor etc. and still had problems. The problem is not the knock sensor, I had to replace motor mounts, my mechanic noticed that the motor mounts were hitting on the computer sensor. This is the sensor that connects the computer system to the car. It is with the harness, but instead of replacing the whole harness it was only the one that is close to the mounts that is under the on the right hand side. There is a sensor somehow under neath the mounts. It is hard to see but it is there. I had to go to junk yard to find that small sensor that connects the computer to the car. Once I replaced it with new sensor, the service engine light went off after driving 10-15 miles and never came back on. Passed the emission and never had the problem again. The motor mounts on these vehicles are not that good. They don't last long at all. Instead of pying 700.00 of what the dealer wanted tto charge me i only paid 45.00

  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    edited April 2014

    Well said, and it sounds like you have a great mechanic - nice detective work.

  • jeffcuneojeffcuneo Posts: 1
    The fix for the knock sensor is less than a $50 fix. Get a new sensor on line at the best price--they are all the same. The new one screws in into the tapped hole below the distributor. The old wire is cut and the new wire attached. The ground wire can be put under the distributor bolt. The fix is on youtube I uploaded a good video already being used with all details. This is the knock sensor wire but do not to the fix based only on this post
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