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Volvo V70 Engine Issues



  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    To read previous posts you can go to previous pages in the page list at the bottom of the page. But if you want to follow a trail of replies select the light grey text at the top "Replying to: . . ." then do the same on that post, etc.

    Modern cooling system practice is to simply drain and replace the coolant with fresh. In the past some people did perform pressurized flushing of the cooling system. It had been found that such treatment often caused more problems than it solved, so drain and replace is the way to go (unless you had some specific blockage and were very careful not to apply too much pressure in the flush).

    A given auto tranny requires a specific type of fluid. Personally I would go with the Volvo fluid which was originally in the vehicle. I don't have any knowledge as to whether the Mobile AT fluid that you referenced is an acceptable substitute for the original equipment (OE) Volvo one or not.
  • I have not yet received a reply, though research has led me to many similar incidents m one involving the death of a 22 year old daughter driving her father's car. Hear this, Two days after the acceleration down hill problem I had a reoccurance.. Same hill and drive. This time in addition to putting the car into park , pulling on the emergency brake and pressing the regular brake with all my strength, I also turned off the key. I missed the drive this time and crashed through trees and down a steep bank crashing into the bank on the upside of the ditch. My glasses and the keys were found in the back seat. Thank God no injuries.
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    According to the discussion below there is a new Mobile "semi-syntheitc" ATF which may be better than Mobile 3309. Evidently Mobile 3309 is not synthetic.
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    Here is a discussion of transmission issues:

    Concerning the cooling system, in your post referenced above, you did state that you got a cooling system flush. And you also state that the defrosting performance is not good, as well as there being an odor. One effect of a leaking heater core is that volatilized ethylene glycol (the main ingredient by weight in the antifreeze) condenses on the insides of the windshield and on the windows as an oily feeling film. (Wipe it with your index finger and then rub the finger and thumb together.) This would definitely be classified as poor defrosting performance.
  • I'm confused.... the discussion you referenced seems to be talking about engine oil. I was referring to transnmission fluid. Does anyone know if the Mobile JWS 3309 is synthetic transmission fluid that is compatable with Volvo V70 2001 2.4L? I can't believe the price the Dealer is asking $210 just for the fluid!! :mad: I love the car faces ;-)
    thanks, Arlene
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    One person in the discussion referred to "oil", but he was not referring to engine oil (aka motor oil, which lubricates the engine, or just oil). He was referring to automatic transmission oil, which is nowadays usually called automatic transmission fluid, usually abbreviated ATF.

    In the discussion these seemingly knowlegeable people refer to "Mobile 3309" and to some newer, apparently semisynthetic, ATF by Mobile which may be better than 3309. However, so far I haven't been able to find any other reference to this other Mobile ATF. Maybe it is still called 3309 but either the formula has been tweaked or 3309 has been further tested so that it's advertised applications have increased.

    According to this site Mobile 3309 can be used in Volvo transmissions:

    By the way the 5-spd auto tranny in my 2004 V70 2.4L non-turbo is made by Aisin of Japan, and I believe that yours is an Aisin too. Aisin may also make trannys for Toyota, hence the question by some whether a certain Toyota ATF will work in the Volvo. The answer is not clear to me. But it does appear that Mobile 3309 will work in the Aisin trannys in our Volvos.
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    This should all really go into the transmission forum, but I'm just going to finish my reply here. Note that reportedly the Volvo ATF is fully synthetic which means it should last longer than a non-synthetic or even a semi-synthetic. (This is if one can rely on the reports of phone calls to Volvo.)

    This from another discussion on Swedespeed Forums:

    "The Volvo fluid is JWS 3309. Check the latest technet note 40-04 about fluids for transmissions and AWD Volvos.
    Heres the copy for it:

    NO: 40-04
    DATE: 10-13-2005
    MODEL/YEAR: All Models
    SUBJECT: Transmission and AWD Lubricants
    REFERENCE: Owners Manual and VIDA
    Application Note Part Number
    • 5 and 6 Speed Automatic Transmissions
    This fluid is also recommended to address two
    complaints on the AW 50-42:
    •Harsh Lock-Up engagement/disengagement
    (SB 43-0029)
    •Squeaking noise during low speed turns
    (TNN 43-11)
    JWS 3309
    The only oil approved for the 5 and 6
    speed automatic transmissions is JWS
    3309. None of the other fluids available
    on the market have been evaluated by
    Volvo to meet the requirements of
    these specific transmissions regarding:
    • Shift quality
    • Slipping lock-up functionality
    • Transmission durability
    1161540 (1 liter)
    1161640 (4 liter)

    Reply from another poster

    I see what you've posted...even if it and the Mobil-1 both are JWS3309, one is synthetic (Volvo' confirmed by them to me) and Mobil-1's isn't (confirmed by Mobil Oil Co. to me). You can use either, I know...but if it were me, I would rather stay with the more expensive synthetic ATF.

    But other posters state that the newest version of Mobile 3309 are in fact synthetic. So in my car I would use the latest version of Mobile 3309 if it indicated on the label that it met the Aisin specification of JWS3309.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    This may clear things up a little. Posted in the transmission thread to keep on topic...
  • tradotrado Posts: 2
    i replaced the pcv and engine still has to much pressure its leaking out of the seals 98 v70 2.4t awd
  • 2000 V70R, 56K miles. Runs super. Check Engine Light (CEL) is mostly on, occasionally off. OBD II reads "Low Catalytic Converter Efficiency". We replaced the CatCon (with a cut-rate aftermarket) but CEL was still on/off as before. Re-installed the original equipment CatCon.

    Suggestions on what to try next? O2 sensor? Front or rear one? Other?
  • Good day,

    I have a 2000 XCV70 that is leaking oil.

    local mechanic put a dye at the last oil change, and is now indicating that the valve cover gaskets are leaking.

    I read some where that these models do not have gaskets but a special sealant, and this is a major undertaking.

    Is this correct? Or are there in fact gaskets that can be easily repalced,,,

    Any help is appreciated
  • lac3lac3 Posts: 3
    I'm not sure if these are the same issue or two separate ones. Note, I did have Auto Zone scan the codes and there were none. (The dealership wanted $100 to do it).

    NOTE: THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DIDN'T COME ON WITH EITHER OF THESE ISSUES. I'm told that with minor engine issues its not always serious enough for it to come on. Although it did come on when I didn't tighten the gas cap (LOL).

    FIRST ISSUE: Noise sounding like "sleigh bells" coming from the engine (merry xmas haha)- the mechanic said it was the serpentine belt or the adjuster lever (forgot what he actually called it) I told him it was worse when A/C on - I turned on A/C it was worse (big time). He had me turn it off and he pulled the lever that adjusts/keeps the serpetine belt uniform and it made the same noise each time he pulled it.

    SECOND ISSUE: its been hot around here so lately I've been using a/c - driving along in traffic 30 mph the power starts to go and fluctuates between 1000 and 2000 rpm. Then yellow arrow comes on and I have to pull over (limp mode). Turn off the a/c and turn the engine back on; the yellow arrow isn't on and am able to get home (2 miles away) without problem and without using the a/c.

    ThE 1-2k fluctuation also happened on a prior occasion on the freeway 70 mph, a/c on. Didn't know what to do, first time it happened, so I turned the a/c off and dropped it down a gear to try and get more rpms. It worked. At the time I didn't relate it to the a/c, but now I do.

    The mechanic doesn't know if the two problems are related to each other and if an issue with the serpentine belt would put the vehicle into limp mode. He will charge an arm and a leg to figure it out, so can someone here tell me so I can go back and fill him in. He is open to listening to what you guys say.

    thanks - hope you can help. The last mechanic I went to to change the thermostat wanted $275. Said its the labor that it will take and that's what having a volvo does. My son who had injured his shoulder changed the $20 part in 15 mins with one hand.

    Thanks so much - hope I hear from someone soon - if you can't tell by this long-winded and probably too much detailed question, I'm a female! LOL.
  • sam2010sam2010 Posts: 1
    My V70 2004 started to have noise under the hood, that stops with pulling out oil dipstick or taking off oil cap. At same time appreciable vacum can be felt at dipstick and oil cap oppenings. My mechanic freind saidthat oilseparator cluging causes this problem. I found similar explanations on some forums. However I do not understend how oil separator can cause excessive vacume in crankcase. Is there any valve that conects oil separator with intake manifold negative pressure. Is it possible that not separator but such valve causese problem with nauise from excess vacum in crankcase.When I had problems with PCV system on my GLT850 I had smoke coming from dipstick and oil cap openning and there was positive pressure and not vaccum. Does this model has fire trap or substitue and may it be clugged?

    Thank you for sharing yourexperiance
  • lac3lac3 Posts: 3
    Thanks for your time and input.

    But I did end up aking it to a volvo mechanic and it was the serpentine belt that was worn and the lever that adjusts it making the noise.
  • lac3lac3 Posts: 3
    Oops sorry about the prior post - if I knew how to delete it I would! I didn't read everything and thought your response was sent to me coz it was in reply to my posted problems.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 801
    I'm trying to help out an old high school friend of mine with her car problem. She's a single mom (actually a 35-year old widow) and has already spent a ridiculous amount of money taking her car to the service department at the local Volvo dealer with no resolution!

    Her car is a 2002 V70 2.4T with only 82,000 miles on it. The problem occurs when you open the throttle over 1/4 or so, the car basically bogs down. It doesn't accelerate and actually feels like it's trying to stall. It will actually decelerate at times, especially up steep hills, if you floor the gas pedal.

    I recall having some very similar problems with a '96 Honda Accord that I owned, but it had around 120k miles on it. The culprit was the PCV valve and replacing it solved the issue.

    I'm no mechanic, but could it also be the PCV valve on her V70? The dealership has charged her over $2500 in the last year "trying" to fix the problem. On her last visit, they suggested that the turbocharger could be the culprit. Is that a possibility, based on the symptoms I've described, or is it just their way of making a few thousand dollars more off of her???

    In the meantime, I've advised her NEVER to take the car back to the dealership after the warranty expires! Find an honest, respected and knowledgeable independent shop that specializes in Volvos or Swedish cars in general. I've found a few nearby shops that specialize in Volvos among other makes/models.

    She was continuing to drive the car (with a feather-light foot on the gas pedal) until recently. I have a '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I keep as a spare and I loaned it to her until we get this problem figured out on her V70....

    Any help or guidance would be GREATLY appreciated here! Thanks so much!
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    Hard to say without having the car in person. The dealership should be able to just read the fault codes - $2500 borders on criminal - she should complain.

    Off the top of my head, I would add O2 sensors, ignition coils, and fuel filter/pump to the list of possible problems.
  • tunerimportstunerimports Posts: 1
    edited November 2010
    First I have to agree about the borderline criminal part, thats outrageous! That said, I am a Mechanic and am pretty good with imports so... Turn on the car let it warm up for 10 min then look under at the catalytic converter if its smoking or red hot then you have a plugged converter this will cause the car not to have power over 3000 RPMs or so due to the back pressure. It is doubtful that the coils in the ignition went out as there are no moving parts in it but stranger things have happened. its not the O2 ether even with a bad o2 it would go back to factory settings and still run just not as good. If its not the cat then most likely I have to agree that its fuel pump or filter probably filter. Hope this helps and isint to late.
  • I had a simular problem with my 2004 V-70. I had the throttle body cleaned. I do this every 30,000 kl. I go to the local high school, they do it very cheap. Hope this helps. Never sets a code.
  • I had a simular problem with my 2004 V-70. I had the throttle body cleaned. I do this every 30,000 kl. I go to the local high school, they do it very cheap. Hope this helps. Never sets a code.
This discussion has been closed.