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Dodge Caliber Electrial/Lighting Issues
Discuss electrical problems here.
0
Comments
I've had mine apart and there are no other LEDs just
the greenish plastic perspec.
lamp sockets for replacement purposes-that's right from the service manual.">
in the engine compartment.I have read 1 or 2 posts about the
switch in the turn sig stalk failing,you may want to try diconnecting
the negative post on battery for about 10 minutes in case the
TIPM(where the fuses are)computer is confused.
Other than that it means a trip to the dealer.
So, I went to owner's manual to find what headlamp and how to replace. Owner's manual said to 'see your dealer'. I needed oil change (with coupons, cheaper than me doing it myself), so thought I would get headlamp changed also. They didn't have any.
Is there something exceedingly special about the Caliber headlamp? Or, is it just my 'luck'?
Is there a 'trick' to changing the headlamp (why refer to dealer)?
store should stock them.If you have small hands you can change
them from under the hood but the service manual tells you to undo
the wheel well liner for easy access to the bulbs and mountings.
I found out that the extra lighting caused an overload and must have been tripping some automatic breaker on the car.
I replaced all the bulbs in the trailer with aftermarket LED light bulbs and that solved the problem. I searched here first and could not find the issue with anyone else, so I thought I'd post what worked for me in case it happens to anyone else.
are transmitted over the system to tell the management software
when things are right/wrong.In your case the extra current draw was
noted by the TIPM(totally integrated power managemnt) hardware
and it took action to isolate the problem.You resolved it (maybe
not permanently) by changing the load current.
The real resolution that has been posted in other Caliber forums
is to install a relay which is actuated by application by the regular
brakes/signals.
The rear window defrost works on a timer/temp system and is
not meant to stay on indefintely,normally it comes on and goes
off automatically.
No. When I press the dash button the light goes on but as soon as I let go of the button, it turns off. If the button was mechanical I may think it's a defective button. Ripping apart the dash sounds like a big job. I don't want to do that if I don't need to.
if the light comes on it may not have complete circuit to support.
Is the foil on the rear window damaged?
If not the system maybe shutdown by the TIPM computer that monitors
electrical systems and can selectively turn off sources of overcurrent,this
can only be tested and reset by a dealer using Starscan.
A wild shot might be to disconnect the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes
then reconnect and try.
This is excellent. Thanks. At least I know something about it now. When She comes home, in a few days, I will look closer for a short in the wiring that I can see..
Bob
My Caliber is a 07 SE year and version.
An alarm shop installed a year and half ago a non factory buglar alarm.
The alarm was conected to the red wire (power) in the starter cylinder (ignition switch) at steering column.
-Does this power source (red) wire has any relation with the TIPM, Do you think conecting to feed the alarm to that power source can damage or over heat the Caliber TIPM or that wire is not related with the TIPM ?
-Also, In what case has to be a Relay and in what zone has to be installed the relay when installing a buglar alarm in the Caliber?
-After this, how important is to know the Caliber electrical system before installing an Alarm or it is like any other car electrical system?
Thank you in advance my friends for your kind help.
Regards
thanks
thanks
b
Can be reached at kindn3ss@yahoo.com
Can be reached at kindn3ssyahoo.com
I was hoping someone else has dealt with it, and has a solution.
If it truly is a wiring issue, an idea was to override dependency on the relay by cutting the hot wire to the light. Then you would splice the hot wire from the left headlamp and connect the splice to the right side headlamp. To ensure safety, you could place an in-line fuse in the newly installed run.
If it is a computer problem, the issue is more complex. The repair would be a step by step attempt to correct the issue by 1) Disconnecting the battery terminals and either keep them separately disconnected overnight, or 2 ) disconnect and clamp them together for 10 minutes minimum. Both acts could theoretically reset the computer and corresponding DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) Code that was set originally (both did not work for me). I knew this because I checked it with an hand held diagnostic tool you can buy for about $49.
The next step would be to ask the dealer to reset the computer. The dealer has a computer that can perform the task, but they may want to tell you what their theory is, and not do the repair.
The last step is to replace the computer. I would think that is $700 to $1000 before all is said.
I work for a company that makes the Chrysler Wireless ignition systems. We know how to reset DTC's and have the ability to do so if needed. Any DTC can be reset after making a repair or if it appears to be a false code as well. Our system talks to the car computer, and the computer runs certain Diagnostics through our unit to verify functionality. Tests such as TPM (Tire Pressure Monitor) and Rain Sensor on the newest vehicles are which run through the unit to check. Sometimes they will give a false reading, and we know this and reset them.
My problem is that while I was experimenting the DTC for the Tranny came on, and it was not a false reading. The CVT Transmission blew in my Caliber, and now it sitting on the lawn waiting for a new/used one from Ebay. A belt blew and these things are virtually unserviceable. The bottom line is they are not great cars. The proof is the introduction of the Dodge Dart coming out soon to replace the Caliber. The Caliber was a lot of good ideas with a bunch of cheap parts, so it was doomed to fail. This is the Chrysler mindset, and I don't see it changing unless Fiat forces them in certain circumstances.
Hope this helped.
Is there any known recalls for this?
Okay, so I have a 2007 Dodge Caliber, and I was just using my car earlier today and it was working fine but when I turned on my car tonight, my headlights went on, and I could not turn them off, (and I don't have automatic headlights), I cannot turn on my high beams, I can not control the brightness of the lights inside the car, and I have no turn signals (but my 4-way flashers work). Does anyone have any ideas what it could be? My car starts fine and everything else seems to work.
Almost sounds like it has to be some kind of grounding issue. That, or some kind of controller gone haywire