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Climate control off and cluster gauges not working

abesvenomabesvenom Member Posts: 2
edited October 2020 in INFINITI
My 2007 Infiniti M35 speedometer cluster gauges are not working, and the climate control is off as well. I found out my climate control module that's located above the stereo, controls both the cluster and air and it was toasted inside. So I ordered one and I just replaced it today. As soon as I plugged it in and started the car the module started smoking and no gauges or climate air worked either so I ordered few more but before I go through this again I need to know what's causing the overload? there is a small chip on the board of this controller that keeps getting hot and bubbling and getting toasted. All my fuses and relays are fine and when I had this controller module disconnected the car was running higher RPM I could hear the engine and the car overheated but when the module is connected it does not do that even though the board is toasted on the module. So something is overloading the heater control module or climate control module which is an electronic board in a white box above the Stereo or behind the climate control buttons. Did any of you guys go through this before? does any body out there know what the problem is? I am sure if I connect the other modules i ordered they will burn as well even though they are cheep off of ebay but i need to find what's causing this overload. will a bad blower motor cause this? will fan control module cause this? or is it wiring issues some where? if you know something help please

Comments

  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,791
    Looking at the schematic the only circuit for the system that carries any significant current through the Unified Meter and AC amplifier module is the AC Compressor Electronic Control Valve. That is an orange wire pin 65 of connector M65. That's probably all greek without an information system and wiring diagram in front of you but the electronic control valve is part of the variable displacement controls of the AC Compressor. You could go to the compressor and measure the resistance of the control valve (solenoid, you will need to find a specification for that. If too low the current will be too high), and/or search for possible harness damage putting full power to that orange wire. The solenoid has two wires connected to it, The Yellow which is power from fuse 12 in the left lower kick panel fuse block, NOTE it turns into a Black/Red at the compressor and the orange which is the ground side control at the AC amplifier module. Anything else will require direct investigation and testing.


  • abesvenomabesvenom Member Posts: 2
    Thank you, so I isolated everything and everything is working fine, I though it was fan control module I was wrong I thought it was the blower motor I was wrong all those parts are working. I found out there is a fuse called electricals fuse by driver left foot, if that fuse is in it burns the AC amplifier. I left the damaged unit in and I went to get some tires done today after I left the gauges started working and the climate controls worked as well so I drove back home still working, then it started flickering on off on off. I tried to shake some harnesses behind the radio and cluster nothing then I noticed AC is not working only hot air very hot even though the AC button was pressed still no AC and every now and then climate goes off and gauges flicker then everything comes back again. I pulled two codes from the car the gas gauge is not working so I had P0183 Fuel Temp Sensor and P0463 Fuel level sensor. circuit high input it says on both. So what you told me above about the AC compressor and the fact i have no AC just hot air that could be the problem. So for today everything is working and the damaged AC amplifier is on it still and its missing a black chip on the board because its getting too hot and burning this one I managed to remove the chip while it was hot and just left the board hooked up with that and the gauges started working but flickering every now and then and the gas gauge is not working but I got codes for it I drove the car it drives very normal I have to find out what's causing this. The car was in accident on driver front fender I replaced and painted and also the right side rear corner bumper was hit and some of the trunk floor is crumbled iI don't think there is electrical damages there. Its probably the AC controller you are taking about or the wire or something is loose because not its working and flickering and no AC
  • KgigsupKgigsup Member Posts: 2
    Hey, I have a 2013 Nissan Altima.

    My dashboard went blank..

    I took to the Nissan dealership and they ran diagnostics and reported that the cluster went bad and needed to be replaced, at $1600.

    My son had me disconnect and reconnect the battery terminal.
    It worked!!
    Fixed it!!!!!!!
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